what kind of loker would be good i here that you can weld them well im going to drive it on the street as a daily driver too so lets here wat is good i think that if im driving it on the street i need one that can be kicked on and off like an air locker maby well i dont know about them. what are the pros and cons of the locker is there any? lol i dont no i have never had one before

I did a Detroit in my 14 bolt. There priced nicely compared to what they want for the d60 version.

I have a brand new detroit locker for that axle that I never installed and then sold the axle. Let me know if you're interested.

You can one of two ways detroit or the arb locker

weld the carrier.. spool, mini spool, detroit, arb.

I'm running an ARB in my 14B and love it. In my experiense once you go selectable you'll never go back:D . I have friends that are running welded 14B's and sware by them, but they have never had a selectable. I've run an Eaton E-locker, an Auburn ECTED, a Lock Rite, and now ARB's. I've driven Detroits and welded diffs. So from the list of my lockers you can tell I love selectables.

k how much for the arb locker how fast will you eat up a rear end if you have a`locker

Detroit, the only way to go.

k how much for the arb locker how fast will you eat up a rear end if you have a`locker

eat up a 14FF?

I'm running an ARB in my 14B and love it. In my experiense once you go selectable you'll never go back:D .

I have run ARB's front & rear, detroits and welded.

I would never run anything other than a welded rear in a wheeler unless it had a super short wheelbase....like a sammy.

Now I only run welded rears and detroits in the front. I had the chance to run a ARB in the front of this new D60 and decided not to. Its just not selectable enough.....my had was always on the button. With a detroit when I'm on the gas its locked and when I'm off the gas its open. I never found an advantage off road to having the ARB off other than getting the steering wheel to move on rocks...the detroit allows that with just a feathering of the throttle.

Its just not selectable enough.....

:shaking:

weld it and get something better for the front.

If you are driving it on the street, do NOT weld it...you will hate it. And so will your tires hate you as they wear down to nothing very quickly. We welded my friend's rear, cause he wanted to go the cheap route, and within two months, he went and found a Detroit. I run a Detroit in my 14b, and it is fine. If I had it all to do again, now that ARBs are available for it, I would probably run an ARB in the rear (I run one in my front D60 already). The Detroit, while always reliable and strong, is so sloppy on the street that it gets old.

It really depends on how much street driving you do (in my opinion). Also, do you do much snow wheeling? I know when I go, sometimes I wish I had the rear ARB instead of the Detroit...sidehilling on anything but deep, fresh powder SUCKS! If it's a trail only rig, then I guess welding it is up to the owner, and is generally much cheaper. Detroit is next cheapest, then ARB is most expensive, but they all have advantages.

i go on the creek bed at my ranch when its mudy and i like to go to the mud bogs theres lots of sand around to were we alwas go hunting but i drive on the steet more than wheel lol that sounds bad but i have to drive to work and go home at the end of the day and when i get a haul truck and trailer ill go to mud boggs more out of town i dont rilly like to have to drive home what i just ran hard in the mud it seems like my alternater alwas goes out when i do for somreason lol. i do wheel a lot when it snows or rains but here in nm were i live that dont happen much.

eat up a 14FF?

what is a 14ff dose it stand for full floting if so yea mine is full floating and i have bernt 2 of thos basterds

Welder' Up . Will never ever put anything else into a 14 bolt . No point in dropping cash on a 14 bolt . As far as front selectable for sure , No locker up front till I can afford one .

Detroit. Couple of friends run them in the 2wd trucks :flipoff2: No more getting stuck on wet grass or some snow. Kind of a no-brainer for a 4x4.

I just have to decide which truck I put mine in. :laughing:

gov-lock :flipoff2:

what is a 14ff dose it stand for full floting if so yea mine is full floating and i have bernt 2 of thos basterds
you literally burned it or actually broke something?

put a Richmond EZ locker in mine front and rear and they work great off road and on the srteet and cheap...

you literally burned it or actually broke something?

Well the housing got so hot it split all the was around on one. and the other it just made a ring with small cracks and burn the paint off the pumkin. both were driving down the road and both had new gear oil in them

Well the housing got so hot it split all the was around on one. and the other it just made a ring with small cracks and burn the paint off the pumkin. both were driving down the road and both had new gear oil in them

These failures have nothing to do with lockers, either no/very low oil level, improperly set up gears or bearing failure so the type of locker you use wont make any difference....

Well I was woundering if a locker would eat up your gears in your rear end. Like when your turning on pavment. One side spins faster than the other, and when its locked back there it cant do that so wont the gears bind up and start to chip off. Dose that make sense, or am I wrong.

:laughing: :laughing: gov-lock :flipoff2:

Well I was woundering if a locker would eat up your gears in your rear end. Like when your turning on pavment. One side spins faster than the other, and when its locked back there it cant do that so wont the gears bind up and start to chip off. Dose that make sense, or am I wrong.

Nope your wrong ,and I am not going to explain either .

Ok then tell me how in my freinds cj jeep with 33s, got the rear end ate up within a month after installing a detroit locker. Another of my friends intalled a locker in is chevy 3/4 ton and not even a month later the rear end was all ate up.

Ok then tell me how in my freinds cj jeep with 33s, got the rear end ate up within a month after installing a detroit locker. Another of my friends intalled a locker in is chevy 3/4 ton and not even a month later the rear end was all ate up.

Improper install?

The Detroits were factory options in many thousands of GM trucks.....without THAT kind of issue.

Ok then tell me how in my freinds cj jeep with 33s, got the rear end ate up within a month after installing a detroit locker. Another of my friends intalled a locker in is chevy 3/4 ton and not even a month later the rear end was all ate up.

Yep your wrong....its harder on axle shafts, the ring and pinion is affected very little by a locker or spool. Sounds like someone down there doesn't know how to set up a r&p.

gov-lock :flipoff2:

ive got one of those and its kinda anoying cause in reverse it wont lock up unless the rpms are way up there, but hey its better then nothin

Ok then tell me how in my freinds cj jeep with 33s, got the rear end ate up within a month after installing a detroit locker. Another of my friends intalled a locker in is chevy 3/4 ton and not even a month later the rear end was all ate up.

x3 on the improper install.

Like was said, these are a factory equipment on many rearends. The military put them in 14 bolts. The Eaton rearends(basically the precursor to the 14bolt) had these as the factory locker.

Also, since this is one of, if not the most popular lockers of all time kind of says something about them.

So how do I weld it. What is involved. Where do I weld it at.

So how do I weld it. What is involved. Where do I weld it at.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=43