Well i ve been getting alot of Pm's with questions about my ranger so i decided to finally post up my build up. It all started off with a $400 88 ranger STX regular cab long bed. I lifted it 6"s upgraded the axles a little then i met some new buddys that all have crawlers. So i decided to ditch the TTB front for a HP fullwidth Dana 44. I bought a 44 off of craigslist for $200 with all the cast wedges on it. I was going to run them with stock radius arms, bushings, and coils but i decided i wanted to flex alot more than that. I Plated the stock arms grinded them down so i could sleave them with 2" 1/4 wall DOM extended them around a foot and got currie HD johnny joints. made the cross member/t-case skid in a few hours got pre-bent Blue torch 1 3/4 DOM shock hoops welded all that crap on. I got a great deal on 14" 2.0 fox air shocks so i was pretty much ready to flex. I scored a massive deal on 8 lug outers/ 5.13's/detroit/ recentered H1 double beadlocks/6 38" TSL radials half tread/high steer/ heimed dom tierod/ Eaton 14 bolt rear end with disk brake conversion with 5.13s and lincoln locked all for around $1200 I decided to stick with leafs in the rear and picked up some 63" chevys
for $50 and inboarded them and made some shackles. Got the drivelines made ( Steve at South Bay Driveline in San Jose).

All in all it turned out great i have run the con/frank reines/ and hollister a few times with nothing broken. To bad i finished it right before "season ended" so i havent been able to run Four dyce like i wanted too. hope you guys like it heres all the pics i know theres a ton just thought i'd be thorough

Update As of 12/6/2011:

Current Specs

88 Reg Cab Ranger Frame
90 Extendo Cab
2.9 Liter V-6 (fancy)
Mitu Trans 5-speed
Stubler Doubler BW1350-1354

Front End:
88 High Pinion King Pin 60, 5.13's, Welded, Plated Knuckles, HighSteer, PSC DE Ram, 35 Spline Yukons with Warn Hubs
2/3 Link with Pan Hard (2" .25wall DOM with 1.25" Heims for links) (1.5" .25" wall DOM with Ruffstuff 7/8s Heims for PanHard)
2.5" SAW Airshocks with Tri-Nitrate Coated Shafts, Poly Performance Limit Straps

Rear End:
63" Chevy Springs, Redrilled
Plans to put 2" SAW Airshocks in back w/ leafs
Eaton H052/72 with Discs. Shaved housing, welded, 5.14s

Cage:
Full Exo around Cab, 1.75" .120wall DOM.

Wheels/Tires:

44" Pitbull Rockers
Performace Cryogenics Recentered H1 Wheels, Trailworthy Fab PVC Inserts



the begining:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image065.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/muddin.jpg
the mud days:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_6503.jpg
went to the early 90's front clip:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/today-7.jpg

the start of the Krawler build:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/rannnnnnger.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image053.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/073006_18301.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/073006_18302.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/080206_15291.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/halfdoor.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/hhh.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/090106_12181.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/flex.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/flex2s.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/flex3.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/091706_16261.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/092506_08422.jpg


ITS done well sort of ( i know im gonna get shit for the redneck RTI)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_2838.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_2840.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/crossmember.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/eaton.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/jeffshop2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image071-1.jpg

Decided to Bob the bed i might dove tail it later:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_3007.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_3009.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_3014.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Picture002.jpg

RUBICON:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/roob078.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/DSCN2804.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/roob064.jpg

Frank Reines:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/mike.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/DSCN0193.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/DSCN0182-1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/DSCN0177.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/DSCN0173.jpg

that is sick. your truck is my trucks hero. check it out in the classieds its under 87 xcab v8 fs axles ranger. i want to trade mine for a 4wd v6 manual trans stock ranger if you find one im in bakersfield.

I've run across your buildup before. NICE! Appreciate the good pics too. I've been researching this and plan to do a full width Bronco II soon.

It looks like the extended arms hit just perfect under the frame on the crossmember you built. Or did you have to push them in any? I have a welded C-mount D44 instead of the cast so I can cut them off and move them in if I had to. I'll have to see when I mock it up if I will have the room on the BII for extended or if I will just go wristed.

that is one kick ass ranger

thanks guys, i notched into the crossmember so i could get the johnny joints as high up as possible and the top of the crossmember is opened up to allow the t-case to sit in it its all plated to the max and pretty solid. The c-mounts on the tube are in the stock location i extended the arms so that they were long enough to sit right inside the frame i did however push the front axle forward about 4 inches which puts my wheel base at about 117"s ill post some pics of the crossmember build when i get on my other computer

heres a better shot of the crossmember and arms in action and some random flex shots on the old dodge
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/RastarProductionDec20061021.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/RastarProductionDec20061008.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/RastarProductionDec20061014.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/RastarProductionDec20061031.jpg

I think that is the nicest Ranger I've ever seen.

Nice build man, once mine gets off DD duties it'll be headding a little more towards yours...

once again thanks i was tired all the jeeps and yotas out there, they are all cool and all, but i wanted something different and make people think, what the hell is that?? its still confusing because the emblems on the front clip say bronco II. it took me about 3 months total with a month of actual working on it. the only thing i need is more crawl ratio...... ive built this on a super budget and spent around $3000

hey! is that hi-lo spotter in the shop Chuck Liddell?:flipoff2:

hahaha yeah thats me

That is Gawjus. Nice job!

re-tried the fork lift today
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image041.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image044.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image047.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image053-1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image062.jpg

Those pics actually do it justice. it was hard to tell how high it was from the forklift. lookes good mike:evil:

yeah the 2nd pic with mario in it shows the height considering he's 6'1

This week Truss the front axle went to a buddies shop to bent up a DOM truss which the hydro assist ram will be mounted on eventually


FUTURE PLANS:
Dual Cases
EXO
Link the rear
Chromoly shafts
hydro assist
attach front/rear winchs
39.5 TSLs

That thing looks alot closer to being done then it did when My brother in law bought the blue and white blazer from ya a while back..... Glad to see ya finished it.. Looks good...:grinpimp: We are waiting on a few parts before we start building that thing up...... Wont be as nice as your rig though...We're broke....:D Your rig looks sick though.... ..:smokin:

thats hilarious what you guys doin with it? im broke too dont worry i made 80% of the crap on my truck so that helped

The Basic build.. 203-205 doubler, rear springs up front, dana 60 4:88's welded, and some nice shafts once he gets more money.. Pro-comp 63" rears with a shackle flip, dana 70 b with 4:88's welded... Hopefully h-1 8 bolts re-centered, and some cheap 39.5 tsl's off my dodge.... for now... Once he gets some more money saved up, we will cage it and narrow the front 14 inches... maybe link it etc... He is a broke fawker though so its slow going.......

sounds like a plan good luck im glad to see it going to good use i have another blazer on 40's for $1200 pm me if interested

Nice setup. Always been a Ranger fan. Im on my 6th one, of course they dont look like that!:eek:

yeah i hated mine when i first got it but now i love it it runs like a champ im on the 4th tranny 3rd t-case 3rd axle set up but good ol' 2.9 liter hasnt let me down yet even with 240,000 miles on it HAHA!

if anybody has any advice to get the best crawl ratio and bulletproofness for my set up let me know !!!!!!!!!

if anybody has any advice to get the best crawl ratio and bulletproofness for my set up let me know !!!!!!!!!

stubler...he's doin another run www.4-x-fab.com

Im planning on 5.13's and 38's when its all done..IIRC it ends up 199:1 crawl in double low..its dam low either way..(thats with the 2.56 reduction at the torque converter in the auto to...)

Ok, i know this is a extremily stupid question, esp in the ford forum, but im a ex jeep guy and i am wondering what is the control arm set up that you have ( the red rubber cast you have arround the front axle connecting to the lower control arms ) and where can i order the casting-restraint that you are using for the control arm ?

Am i the only one that finds it funny that the 'white rhino' isnt white?

wanderer i plan on making my own doubler in the next few weeks i have researched it and its not to difficult to do ill post that shit up when i do it. i have heard good stuff about the stubbler, but i cant afford it unless they take food stamps haha i work part time and go to school.

Whitejeepxj- It is a modified stock radius arm suspension set up you can buy the arms wedges and everything for jeffsbroncograveyard.com early broncos, f100's and a few others

hahahaha yeah i was surprised that no one had said that yet. It started as my nick name then back my trucks name good times

I like the cupholders in the half doors:smokin: Looks NICE.

Doublers are easy to make. I'm gonna do one for my snow rig.

yeah ive been researchin it the last few days and i can definitely make it im gonna go to some yards to find the 1354 t-case then i have to remake my crossmember

Ok, as per your PM request, I'll bash on your shit here in your thread.

D60 60 60 60 60 60 60!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
























]if anybody has any advice to get the best crawl ratio and bulletproofness for my set up let me know !!!!!!!!!

Yeah, you'll like the 1354 doubler. I'm currently building one myself for my BII, but I also have an Atlas in my Ranger. The Atlas lacks a 2.x low though (and is a bit overkill with the stock V6), so the doubler IMO is more practical (provided you got the room for it, the plastic gas tanks on some trucks can make installing it a PITA).

Yeah, pics often don't do things justice, but it's obvious you got it flexin in those last shots.

:beer:

yeah definitely cheap too!

the truck prolly just needed some breaking in

and thanks for the bashing id rather you do it in here hahahaa

What did you and you buddy do w/your steering when you moved your axles forward ??? think your was 4 and your buddys was around 6'' forward

on mine i have high steer so i pushed it forward as much as i could the drag link actually sits at a super good angle when i have uptravel it comes close to but doesnt touch the tie rod. my buddy mario has full hydro so he can go as far forward as he wants i guess limited by the hydro hose length.

Your ranger sucks... but I like that eaton rear axle, those recentered H1s, the DOM steering, the 8 lug outers with high steer, 5.13 gears and the detroit you have. :flipoff2:

WHITE RHINO,

Your gonna be proud... I'm getting my front axle together.
I don't have any pic tonight I forgot my camera, but tomorrow i will.
We measured it and from outer rim edge to outer rim edge it is 85inches wide...

I'm stoked! I felt like a fuckin kid when we mounted the rims.

TTYL

D53: You are gay my truck is pure custom ha!

King: awesome dude im stoked to see the pics keep up the good work ill be postin my doubler build when i start it i might pick up the second case tomorrow

your shit sucks, I'd run that thing over like a pebble in the trail :flipoff2:

oh yeah its custom alright :flipoff2:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k172/bogger_03/carnage/shaft2.jpg

hey is that the new variable geometry rear axle? :D

I love black mail pictures...

ahh that was a fun day good ol' shitty 8.8

d53: ive got some good pics of your rig broken many times
ooops:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/090906_14281.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/DSCN0187.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/DSCN0185.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/DSCN0184.jpg

hey you forgot this one. oh look at that badass rear axle, and the H1s :flipoff2:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g185/D53/PK%20Wheeling/meflop2.jpg

Hey White Rhino...

I got some pictures of the axle put together with the new brakes, rotors, calipers and my tires. I didn't paint the axle black yet because I still have welding to do.

Check it out and let me know what you think...

you bastard!!!! im so jealous i will do a 60 swap when i have cash and ill stay with my radius arm set up more weight would be nice on the front axle. Pit Bull tires huh i havent seen to many of them on the trail let me know how you like em. I gotta do my doubler so i can crawl at fourdyce this coming season.

That axle looks badass with those tires How long till u mount that beauty??

Hey white You gone done a gooder job getting flex out those arms. Amazing considering your budget.

thanks bro yea i have spend about $3100 including consumables(grinding wheels paint etc.) but im sure ill be spend alot more soon considering i have a full dom exo to build dual cases bumpers front rear winches( i have a ramsey 9000 and warn 8274 both need solenoids) im gonna upgrade to 16" 2.5 fox airshocks and possibly link the rear

thanks bro yea i have spend about $3100 including consumables(grinding wheels paint etc.) but im sure ill be spend alot more soon considering i have a full dom exo to build dual cases bumpers front rear winches( i have a ramsey 9000 and warn 8274 both need solenoids) im gonna upgrade to 16" 2.5 fox airshocks and possibly link the rear

PPFFFTTT There goes budget right out the window.:D

hey its not bad considering heres the budget broken down

Cost so far:

Front axle: $200
Bushings: $40
Radius arms: $50
Johnny joints plus DOM tubing $180
Locker/steering/panhard bar/rear axle with disks/ gears $800
H1 Beadlocks with tires: $450
Metal: $50
Paint:$10
Grinding/cutting: $10
Fox air shocks $250
4-38x15.5x16.5 $120
Drag link + 2 heims bungs/misalignment $100
Drive shafts $500
Shock Hoops+ Tabs $120
Brake master $60
Fuel Cell $100
$3130

Monday night (tomorrow) I'll be rolling it down to my garage. My fathers plumbing shop is about an 1/8 mile from my house, and yes I'll be literly rolling it to my house. Dont worry I'll take some pics of that process! haha.

I'm waiting for my 2"x1/4" DOM to come in and then I need to order some 1.25inch heims. I'm low on cash considering class started for the spring semester. I spent $430 on books which was supposted to go to heims.

I've been wheeling those Pitbull rockers (37x13.5x15) for about a year. They've been beatin over most of paragon with my TTB D35 front suspension (weak...i know). They do great at about 5-8 psi, but sucked on the road at 25psi.

When the axle is under the truck tomorrow I'll start pondering link designs. I was gonna do a triangulated four link, but I need it under the truck to see if everything clears. If not I'll see how a 3 link with trac-bar looks. I don't know, I'm still in the suggestion stages...

Let me know what you think...
TTYL

my buddy ran a sort of 2/3 link on his xj and it flexed insane my other buddy has a 4 link front but we had trouble gettin it triangulated at the height he wanted it so he runs a pan hard. you could run my set up also. if i was you i would run a 3 link triangulated lowers and wishbone upper to get around that oil pan.

So I'm assuming you mean:

Lower links start at outside end of axle and angle in towards frame. Then the upper link is kinda like a triangulated four link but with only one heim at the axle end.

Okay I gotcha. Let me get it under the truck and see how it looks. I'll take some pictures for you.

sounds good
when you finalize your design make all the link mounts super beefy and box the frame if possible

hey its not bad considering heres the budget broken down

Cost so far:
Fox air shocks $250


Where did you get Fox Air Shocks for $250 ? ? ?

Cheapest I can find them is $435 a pair ! ! !

i got them used i believe they were only used on a few trips from Jeff Arabia's Overkill jeep he upgraded and cut me a deal www.arabiasoverkill.com

When you upgrade, you going to cut me a deal?

My 5.0L needs rebuilding, so my Air shocks are off till tax return time......

I have never seen a motor with this much SLUDGE, its 1/2 inch thick or better on the heads and in the valley. I am going to powerwash it tomorow, and see how bad it really looks. I am hoping its ok underneath the shit.

hahaha when i upgrade ill link the rear

Are the 2.5's that much better than the 2.0's?

they just hold more weight i might just get longer 2.0s

they just hold more weight i might just get longer 2.0s


How long are your shocks? I am looking at 14 - 16 inchers.

from what jeff told me the 2.0 are rated for 500lbs. per. shock. and the 2.5 are rated for 1000lbs a shock.

Is that total vehicle weight, or just the weight of everything the shocks are holding up, i think its called sprung weight?

i donno but i have about 360lbs of nitrogen in them

mine are 14

I am gonna be building up a ranger just like this, hows the motor? My cousins gave me there ranger. I think its an 85' its got the 2.9 which hauls compared to my 93' 2.3. Axles are gunna be the hp44 and sterling 10.25 outta my f100. is that overkill jeep shop the one right by magnum force? kinda parallel from 17? i was over there getting some fuel line and fittings for my buddies 5.0 and that jeep shop looked sick.

the 2.9's are great i rev the piss out of it original motor 240000 miles never rebuilt. it will go sooner than later but good thing i got a spare. make sure you gear those axles. Yeah Overkill is right next to magnum force Jeffs a super nice guy and great fabricator.

Well here we go. I got it under the truck this afternoon. Drove it to my house with it chained to the front of a kabota and then used a wooden dolly to roll it under.

Now I just need to start designing the links....

god damn i want a 60 run the lower links from the out side of the frame and triangulate outwards if you can then the upper wishbone from both sides of the tranny area wrap around the oilpan and attach to a truss of somekind im working on my truss this week ive been sick for like the past 3 weeks so progress has been slow my truss will sit on the front side of the axle and will be DOM tubing plated and eventually used as a hydro mount im still debating on whether or not im going to still drive my truck on the road so i will prolly do hydro assist. if i non op it or green sticker i will do rear steer and front rear full hydro or just do MOGS and be happy that would solve the crawl ratio problem

king check out this my buddy mario (twisted ranger) has a few pics of his ranger front 4 link
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=409758&page=7

White Rhino,
What is your buddy (mario) running for a drivetrain? I see a NP205 under his truck. Is he running a NP203/NP205 doubler?

How long are his lower links?
How long are your lower links?

Thanks,

Plenty of room for the lower links. The uppers are gonna be harder...

both of ours are pretty long the johnny joints on my arms sit right underneath the t-case im not sure how long his are about the same as mine though. He runs from a stock 5 speed to a 203 to 205 front Dana 50 and rear 60 rears welded and front has somekinda locker. he needs to gear his axles cuz they are only 4.10s right now

you're going to have to re route your exhaust and move those body mounts cuz they will be in your way

you could do a set up with the pan hard it would be easier for sure heres a horrible thing i did in paint best i can do before i go to work
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/hd.jpg

D53 ran that set up for a while and it flexed insane
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_1476.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/fe08d7e1.jpg

Thanks for the pictures! I got a lot of work to do, so i'll update on my progress every once and a while... I'm back to college, so it'll take a while.

Thanks for your help,
TTYL

no prob i know how it is i got school next week it blows but as for a update for my ranger

today I:
Trussed the front axle started on the new front winch bumper with stinger got the main mount all set up and welded the stinger on looks pretty decent so far but im going to make it look pretty trick

You gotta post some pictures of that front axle truss.

oh what the hell, lets see the bumper too

When you upgrade, you going to cut me a deal?

My 5.0L needs rebuilding, so my Air shocks are off till tax return time......

I have never seen a motor with this much SLUDGE, its 1/2 inch thick or better on the heads and in the valley. I am going to powerwash it tomorow, and see how bad it really looks. I am hoping its ok underneath the shit.

ahh....castrol...or quakerstate..cant remember..one still uses paraffin wax in their formula...it builds up in a motor....

I've had several like that...get it GOOD AND CLEAN...otherwise a piece will get stuck in the oil pickup tube..and will cause some damage to the motor...ask me how I know...:mad3:

Quakerstate

Quakerstate

My dad always called it "Quicker Shit"....

I orderd a " re-ring " kit. Comes with main and rod bearings, rings, and gaskets. They said they would return the gaskets I already bought, so that was cool of em'.

My plan is to powerwash the crap out of it and rebuild it in one day so nothing rusts.

I gave my two weeks notice at work today, so I dont know when I will have time to get to work on my BII, but at my new job, I will at least have some money to fix it.

I learned one thing at my job: You can know too much...... I am the only one who has a clue about how to look up parts, order parts, fix motorcycles and fourwheelers. I have had three days off in 14 months. Thats why my title is " Parts/Service/Sales manager".

The " owner " has been there 10 saturdays tops. I cant have a saturday off to go racing, because he cant do ANYTHING at the shop. Enough of my bitching, sorry....



Todd S.

heres 2 pics of the bumper ill take some better ones when i finish it
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/bumper2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/bumper1.jpg

Looks gooood.

Question for ya....

1.25" Heims or 1.25" Johnny Joints

I was thinking J.J. b/c they are rebuildable AND cheaper.

yea go jj they are just all around easier and just as strong

whats a good hyrdro assist kit for cheap any ideas???

Not sure...Didn't get too that part of my project yet.

PSC and Howe makes some good looking stuff and I believe Billavista did some write ups in the tech department with some different companies with either hydro assit or full hydro.


While I'm here.
White Rhino, I was thinking about the Y links that Jeeps run for control arms. I wonder if they flex good without alot of bind. I've seen some pictures of jeeps with probably 48inch arms and they flex nice.

The only thing I would have to do is take measurements off the axle and where on the lower link the uppers attaches too.

Also I'd save a little money (not that it matters, but for right now it does) because I'd only need four JJ (~$57.00 w/accessaries) and the uppers could just use urethane bushings(~9.00) with one bushing being adjustable on each upper. The lower links would need the strength of the JJ but the uppers are just controlling axle wrap. Over the summer I could take out the urethane bushings and replace them with JJ if they are not taking the axle wrap well.

Just a thought, let me know what you think.

The tubing should have been here lastweek, but it got delayed. So hopefully it'll be here this week. That's $200 right there...


I attached a picture of the Y link upgrade for Jeeps. I think I grabbed the picture from Rusty's Offroad.

i think it will flex great do johnny joints at the frame and bushings on the axle it will flex like mad then you can do coilovers or airshocks and your set

make sure you use a heavy wall tubing dom would be best for the arms

I ordered 2"x.25" wall DOM. That should be good for the lower links.

Now I just need to know how far up the lower links the uppers attach to and the dimension of the mounts on the axle.

I'm heading to the JEEP forum...

heres a few pics the one when im enetering the hole i was at full droop and my 38 was nowhere to be seen


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/redonemud2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/redonemud.jpg

whats a good hyrdro assist kit for cheap any ideas???

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10413&highlight=steering+box

AND http://4x4.forensick.net/88bronco/images/sbr/index.htm

Use your stock steering box ! ! !

mmmmm mud... I hate mud....

That looks like a massive hole. Was that an old picture? You don't have the doors made or any of the sheetmetal work done to the bed.

I was over at the HEEP forum and I guess no body was interested in answering my question. Must have been asked way to many times before me and they're sick of replying to the same question. And yes I searched fairly well.

I was at Paragon this saturday (without my truck :mad3: ) and I took a bunch of pictures of rock buggies and also vehicles running the Heep Y links. Got some measurements and also talked to a bunch of people to see how they liked the front suspension and whether or not it flexed goooood.

One buggy guy said if I build that front suspension I HAVE to use rubber bushing at the axle end because at extreme flex they will bind and possibly rotate the axle tube in the housing....

So I'm wondering if using rubber only on the uppers would be enough... I guess one way is to just try it and see what happens.

I'm picking up the tubing this afternoon. Then see if I have enough money to order JJ's.

TTYL
-Adam-

the mud pic was about 3 weeks old i went to hollister on saturday and detroyed my bed use johnny joints that guy is an idiot. use a heimed pan hard bar and keep it at the same angle as your drag link

always use rubber or poly bushings on the axle end, its not as important on the frame end, but on the axle end it needs the movement from the bushings to flex. if you had radius arms with jj's throughout, you would break or bend or have no flex.

its extremely important to have a flex joint at your frame or you will have very limited flex my solid mount rubber c wedges cause binding but the johnny joints make it be able to flex like a mother

I drilled and tapped my steering box for Hydro Assist tonight. Is pretty easy and self explanatory......... Messy but not too hard.

Waiting on ney seals for the box now.:mad3:

Well this is good.

The more people tell me to use rubber or poly at the axle end the more money I save!!!! :flipoff2:

Picked up the tubing today. (Didn't have time the other day)
First time I ordered 2"x.25" DOM for anything.
(dad owns a plumbing shop....so you know what i've been using)
The tubing is fawking heavy!!! 24ft weights ALOT.

So i got some measurements...
upper link is 16inches (CL bolt to bolt) and it attaches 12 inches up the arm from the CL of the bolt on the axle end.
No clue if the measurements increase as the lenght of the arm increases... but thats what trial and error is for.

Been busy as hell with school and the construction that has been going on in my basement the past week.
So when I get some JJ's and stuff done I'll get back to ya

how much did you pay per foot?

I paid 9.75/FT with no shipping charges.

I kinda have a story...bare with me....

I went to a local steel yard and asked about DOM and what they had in stock. The lady didn't even know what it was. I was like "Great!!! This is gonna be an adventure" So i discribed what it was and she called for a guy in the shop to come in so I could talked to him. He said they didn't stock it in anything bigger then say... 1 inch. He could order the size I needed but it would be a special order and would cost me $11.00 per foot plus shipping charges. So I started asking them if they knew of any companies around that deal with the DOM on a regular basis so I could ask them some questions about what size to use and whatnot (I at this point already knew what size I wanted....I just wanted to go somewhere else for a price also). He told me to go down the street to a race car fabrication shop called Vanishing Point Race Cars and talk to those guys.

So I headed down and as soon as I walked in the door it was like I knew these guys and we hung out and drank beer together every weekend. They were kick ass guys. I got a tour of the fab shop and the parts room from Bruce and eventually talked to one of the guys about TIG welders and tubing benders.

Then I was introduced to Keith. He is the Sales Manager. I told him what I needed and what I was using it for, 2"x.25" DOM to build a Y link or 3 link setup for attaching a Dana 60 to the frame of a ranger. We instantly became friends because he was actually working on his Jeep as we spoke AND about to order 2"x.25" DOM for his lower links. So after we talked about Jeep/Truck/rockcrawling/paragon/and off-road in general he said he would get me a price quote on that DOM the next time the company ordered a batch of tubing. So instead of ordering ~20ft for himself he just ordered ~40ft for the two of us. So after a couple weeks the tubing was there and the bill was for 9.75/FT and no shipping charges because it was added to a order of ~1000FT of tubing for the shop.

Great guys! Will deffinitly go back if I ever need tubing,heims or cool stuff

OK, I'm done...:flipoff2:
TTYL
-Adam-

nice build...



King7765, you might aswell remove that keep paragon open, it shutdown monday and they are planning on a airport :mad3:

heres a few pics from hollister this past weekend Hollister hates me ive decided i fucked up my bed pretty bad the front bumper still isnt done but its on and the truss is pretty much done just need to plate it
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image074.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/whoops.jpg

Build a flat bed that doubles as storage if u want bed space. Or just take it off. I got a pretty cherry one if u want another tho hehe.

i was gonna flat bed it but i want a full body look i had it just frame before and it was cool but i would lift tires all day long because i had no weight send me a pic of the bed you got

build a flatbed and skin it or just run what ya got beat up, its not like anyone is gunna expect to see a perfect body on the trails

i was gonna flat bed it but i want a full body look i had it just frame before and it was cool but i would lift tires all day long because i had no weight send me a pic of the bed you got

I would back half it with skins. the tubing would help keep the bed somwhat straight.

yea im gonna wheel it and not care for a bit then decide what i want to do i might do an extended cab swap at some point being 6'3 i barely fit in my truck god damn those wheaties

yea im gonna wheel it and not care for a bit then decide what i want to do i might do an extended cab swap at some point being 6'3 i barely fit in my truck god damn those wheaties


thats one mod i want to do, extended cab but only make it about 2' longer and put a small sleeper in it, im 6'2" and gotta figure out a more comfortable setup for my f150

Tall bastards.... :flipoff2:

I shouldn't talk, i'm 6'1"

So was that a good price per foot or what? No body commented....

from what ive heard $9 isnt a bad ppf ive got a hook up so i can get it at cost just gotta go place an order for enough to do my exo and an exo on my buddies ranger but right now im broke as a joke

my knees basically hit the dash when im sitting in it it blows so my buddy is gonna get me one from his tow yard in the next few months and ill do it as far as i know its a pretty simple swap you jus have to add another body mount and im getting a new bed anyway so ill have to double bob it and dove tail it alot of friggin work if you ask me but it will be worth it in the end

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/n505693137_3959_3820.jpg

I see....

Whats your wheel base?

117"

117"

am i on drugs or is your radius arm bent in that last pic:confused:

am i on drugs or is your radius arm bent in that last pic:confused:

it does look a little bent to me aswell but it could just be the pic

it does look a little bent to me aswell but it could just be the pic

to me also?

i was gonna flat bed it but i want a full body look i had it just frame before and it was cool but i would lift tires all day long because i had no weight send me a pic of the bed you got
I dont have pics and its been raining, but the bed is in really good shape. one decent sized ding on the tailgate, but nothing really else minus a few small dings. paints pretty good too, red. if u really want ill get pics

its not bent the arm comes to a point like a triangle so i ran off the bottom line for the extentions so the top line of the "triangle of the arm throws it off and makes it look bent fordman send me a pic for sure

its not bent the arm comes to a point like a triangle so i ran off the bottom line for the extentions so the top line of the "triangle of the arm throws it off and makes it look bent fordman send me a pic for sure

ahh, good to know, ive wheeled on a bent stock arm for a few weekends until someone pointed it out to me

nice ranger..how are those RA's holdin up with the extra welded on tubing ?? i heard welding on them weakens the crap outta them cause they're cast.. true ?? or just some bs ??

Its bs, welding on cast if done properyl does not weaken it. Preheat the cast up to 500F or so, then using mig i would go with a higher strength wire (but if you can't get it i wouldn't worry to much), turn up your heat and weld small beads and weld fast (multipass), as you want to keep the haz small, then post heat to about 5-600*f and let cool very slowly. The small beads lessen chances for fawk ups, and the pre/post heats lessens the chances for the cast to become brittle.

my held up just fine little update i finally took time to get all my lights working and put the exhaust on and took it to get smogged passed with flying colors awesome also on the way back my driver side upper ball joint exploded

heres some pics of its maiden voyage on a hollister shake down run
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_2982.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_3023.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_3025-1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/100_3012.jpg

Somebody stole your bed!


:flipoff2:

yeah that was the first trip on my new set up back in october i think my bro was being a deuche bag and i finally go the pics from him

Sorry if I missed it some where but how wide is your ft end outside to outside of the tires and what offset are the h1s
I have some full with axles and H1 rims but don't want to be much wider that I'm now w/eb axle and 3 1/2 offset rims and 33's

my axle is 65 WMS and i run i think 4 inch backspaced h1's im not sure the total width but its not to crazy wide my tires are 38x14.5's

Have you had any problems with 38's and the 44? Are the internals upgraded or stock?

i just had a ball joint wear out thats it so far ive been beating on it pretty good and no axle shaft problems i have stock shafts with new hd u-joints when i first built it i thought i would would be breaking shafts and hubs but nada

so i got the ball joint in and all that shit and put the k&N intake on that i got for free im gonna make some mud flaps cause cops in my down are assholes i got a big copenhagen floor mat for retail stores from my boss so im going to cut it in half and run them.

I just picked up a 92' Ranger extended cab shortbed for free with clean body panels and doors anyone have any tips on a cab swap?

i got a question...how stable is the back end now that you inboarded the springs? im building my ranger right now and i have the same springs but in the stock location.

mines pretty stable i try to keep alot of tools and shit to keep weight on them and they flex super good

so no one has any tips on cab swaps??????????????????

so no one has any tips on cab swaps??????????????????

dont foget to unplug the harness from each one....:flipoff2:

you'll have to cut out the back for the kick-ups on the frame, and maybe the cab corners for your tires...i forget your wheelbase.

need someone to tell you how to change your diaper also? or u just looking for attention because you have the best ford ever? :flipoff2: step 1 get beer and friends step 2 drink beer and wrench and pull stuff apart, step 3 pull body off step 4 put cab back on and connect whatever you undid. thats how i see it getting donem its not rocket science where you need instructions, its simple to do, even my half retarded friend did a cab swap himself without using the interweb to tell him what to do:shaking:

yeah beer will be part of the equation i will prolly do a 1 inch body lift my buddy mario did it and it makes working on everything alot easier under the rig i was just curious if there was a ton of difference between the computer set up between an 88 and 92 i know that 92's have the 2.9liter just trying to see if anyone has done it on here that might have had some weird problem and answer so i dont have to deal with that shit when im doing the swap

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/DSCN0704.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/DSCN0709.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/DSCN0708.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/DSCN0702.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/DSCN0700.jpg

Wow....that thing is lookin sick...pretty much what I wana do with mine. On you cab swap, the rear cab mount on my extended cab is built into the leaf spring hanger if that helps at all.

I got a question though as well. I got a Dana 44 housing from a 78-79 bronco and I want to know on yours, what did you do to convert it over to 8 lug stuff and still have hi-steer? Do you just take everything from the knuckles out off of an old F250? Are the F250 knuckles from 76-79 HD Dana 44s able to have hi-steer ran on them?

Reason I wana run 8 lug is because I have a Corporate 14 bolt for the rear that my buddy's Dad is practically giving me and if I can go 8 lug now, I'd love to so that in the future, I don't have to re-buy rims and tires if I decide to go with a Dana 60.

Zach

yeah i assumed id have to add another body mount which wont be bad

as for the axle i swapped out everything to 79 f250 flat top knuckles which were drilled and tapped by parts mike i think my buddy got it done then sold them to me i run dual piston calipers also which is nice it stops on a fucking dime now which is awesome way better than stock it also drives better on the road than the TTB i would just get 8 lug outer knuckles and brakes and swap it straight over

Looking good man! I think teh cab swap main not be that bad, Tehre si a F250 posting here somewhere with more info on that. I can not remember, but the guy that has his vison impaired (white ford on one ton's) dis something similar.

yea i saw it a few months back and cant find it oh well

Your truck is neither white, nor a rhino. Besides, if you were honest, wouldn't you call it "White Wino"? :flipoff2:

fuck an xj I need to sas my ranger. Looks awsome.

Your truck is neither white, nor a rhino. Besides, if you were honest, wouldn't you call it "White Wino"? :flipoff2:

thanks for looking at my build up I like hearing feed back Proeliator thanks for bashing on something i put alot of my time into and not seeing that i love every aspect of the rock crawling life style (i think i do pretty fucking good for being a fulltime student and working fulltime :flipoff2: )

Proeliator thanks for bashing on something i put alot of my time into

Ummmm, dude, all I did was make a light-hearted observation that your truck wasn't white :flipoff2:

I didn't bash in the slightest, but I could start if you want :laughing:

Your truck is neither white, nor a rhino. Besides, if you were honest, wouldn't you call it "White Wino"? :flipoff2:


dude your just fawkin jealous that a ranger is gettin it and your 250 you just had to add nitrous to finally break 100 hp @ the flywheel. :flipoff2:

prolaytatertot is just jealous... if he was kewl he would have a ranger too :flipoff2:

if he was kewl he would have a ranger too


Pffffft, Doods, my truck IS a Ranger. Badges and everything. Its just before they hit the rangers with the shrinking ray and made them all anemic and shit :flipoff2: So lick my peanut-butter covered taint, and don't forget the reacharound, bitches :laughing:

I'll tell you what I dig the most about White Rhino's build, those cut doors with the beer, ahhh, cupholders in them. Those things are :smokin:

Jopes, don't be hating on the nitrous. I decided to run the purge line in-cab so the passenger can take hits off it when the 514 does. Just for you :D

P.S. Heres a tip for the kids at home. Don't take hits off the nitrous bottle if you get the stuff with the additive (forget if its sulpher or what). Its easy enough to find it without, but the stuff with it makes you hella naseaus. Or so I hear :evil:

I need nitrous to make the tank trap carnival ride more fun :D

maybe nitrous would help my crawl ratio problem hah!

I need nitrous to make the tank trap carnival ride more fun :D

I need nitrous on the tow rig :D

I need nitrous on the tow rig :D

lol... my tow rig isn't hurtin too bad now... just ask k5 :flipoff2:

enjoy
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/8-2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/7.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/6.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/5.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/4.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/3-1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/2.jpg

All of a sudden, this has become one of the best build threads ever! :grinpimp:

enjoy
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/8-2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/7.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/6.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/5.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/4.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/3-1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/2.jpg

Finally you have redeemed yourself for all of the poseur pics :flipoff2:

oh and btw... you missed a couple of angles... of your lady I mean :flipoff2:

hahahaa finally its my bros lady by the way shes in love with my truck

your bros lady is posing like that for you? Sibling rivalry much:laughing: :p

nah hahaa ... my bros building a yota at the moment, so im sure she will lay naked on his or something... hahaha

nah hahaa ... my bros building a yota at the moment, so im sure she will lay naked on his or something... hahaha

:smokin: and you'll post those too...right?

i would if i had access but pm only prolly hahahah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

a few shots from the trip this past weekend alot more to come
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_0003.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_0020.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_0033.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_0045.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_0051-1.jpg

puffft, wheres the girl?
net time have her come with you :p

Thats a nice rig mang:smokin:

heres some more http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9715.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9717.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9735.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9764.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9770.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9793.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9795.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9855.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9928.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_9859.jpg

Cool pics!!

Nice rig, love the flex. What are you using for a brake master cylinder?

nice

stock master stock main lines, extended braided stainless lines to axles, up front its dual piston calipers, rear cross drilled rotors and single pistons. The truck stops on a friggin dime. I have a old school bmw and from 60 to 0 the ranger stops way faster wayyyyyyy better than stock

Nice truck man.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/homelessduck_Again/new.jpg

:laughing:

stock master stock main lines, extended braided stainless lines to axles, up front its dual piston calipers, rear cross drilled rotors and single pistons. The truck stops on a friggin dime. I have a old school bmw and from 60 to 0 the ranger stops way faster wayyyyyyy better than stock


I upped to the f250 master for mine..(44 dual piston front and sterling stock rear)...and its WICKED strong..lockem all up at 1/2 pedal..Im in love..

if yours ever doesnt work well enough..the 250 swap is stock with the exception of having to get flair adapters...best $.30 I ever spent..(fittings)

thanks for the info bud, if i have any problems ill upgrade

thanks for the info bud, if i have any problems ill upgrade

:smokin:

no problem...heck...lastnight I ended up movin my front lines down onto the axle..I was worried about the lugs of the TSL's snaggin them and tearin them off the truck....(I've had that happen:eek: )

Pictures look great man. I'm loving the flex and the look of those air shocks.

Mario's truck is cool too, I bet he loves that hydro steering....

Its no wonder your body carnage is soooo bad, damn... with what you get that truck into you'd think an EXO cage would be best...

haha, ttyl

exo is def in the works im trying to find an extended cab since the deuche bag decided he wanted to get a tax return. Ill post a few of my drawings and you guys can tell me what you think

build a tube bed little more than frame width? Thats what I am going to do and I bet it would look good. CHop the backhalf off the frame, 4 link rear with coil overs going to the tube bed. :smokin:

if i was to tube and link it
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image033.jpg

Looks good. I like the idea of cutting the frame off the back and going to just tubing.

I guess that would make your wheel base smaller to right? I think If I did that in the next couple years that I'd make mine shorter...

hey Im on the fence about getting Airshocks for my project ranger, how are the 2.0's holding up in the front end? Im afraid if I get the 2.0's when I start building bumper/exo there are going to be to small.

i like mine they should work but if you have the cash go bigger

if your gonna tube and link it why not link the front and get rid of that radius arm setup? cage looks like it will work fine, but might want to add in a rock slider deal to tie the cage in together a little more

White Rhino, I just bought a 78 Dana 44 from a bronco and I've got a Dana 44 from a 78 F250 that I'm taking the outers off of and putting on the bronco housing. I'm looking at maybe running airshocks, because I honestly think they'd be cheaper than running coils and shocks plus, would give me more flex. I was wondering if you had any close up pics of the lower airshock mounts and the upper and lower trac bar mounts. Did you use the stock trac bar mount on the axle?

Zach

... I'm looking at maybe running airshocks, because I honestly think they'd be cheaper than running coils and shocks plus, would give me more flex. ...

There's no way they're cheaper than coils and shocks. My coils were free and long travel shocks are cheap ($30/pr for my 15" travel cheapies).

If you figure out what coil you need (by rough calculation or looking at other builds), you can go to the 'yard with a tape measure and find something close to your needs or copied verbatim from other builds.

By flex better do you mean have more travel than the average shock? Flex is inherent in the links not the spring/shock. Softness is another thing but I do agree that, in general, you'll be able to dial in an airshock better than the guesswork that goes into a cheap link setup with OEM coils. Keep in mind though that you can find something close to your needs to get started and then buy an exact coil from a spring maker.

Sorry for the threadjack.

they definitely arent cheaper than coils, i love mine but i also got them for $250 used off of Jeff Arabias Jeep (arabiasoverkill.com) when he upgraded. When i set them up i basically made a gusset off the inner C and used that as the lower mount ill try to find a picture. That drawing was just a 5 minute thown together thing thats why isnt not all perfect. I have another one i did in class the other day for an exo.

84B2 why would i link the front? its basically linked already. I guess i could do some triangulated uppers to eliminate the trac bar but i like my set up for now. I dont really want to link the rear, i like how the leafs keep my truck stable. I would have to do anti rocks.


In other news i will have a doubler, 1350/1354 in the next week so that will get rid of my crawl ratio problem. I will be at almost 150:1 which will be siiiiickkkkkk. I am stoked (http://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com/)

they definitely arent cheaper than coils, i love mine but i also got them for $250 used off of Jeff Arabias Jeep (arabiasoverkill.com) when he upgraded. When i set them up i basically made a gusset off the inner C and used that as the lower mount ill try to find a picture. That drawing was just a 5 minute thown together thing thats why isnt not all perfect. I have another one i did in class the other day for an exo.

84B2 why would i link the front? its basically linked already. I guess i could do some triangulated uppers to eliminate the trac bar but i like my set up for now. I dont really want to link the rear, i like how the leafs keep my truck stable. I would have to do anti rocks.


In other news i will have a doubler, 1350/1354 in the next week so that will get rid of my crawl ratio problem. I will be at almost 150:1 which will be siiiiickkkkkk. I am stoked (http://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com/)


How did you come up with almost 150:1 crawl ratio with the doubler? Mine comes up as 73.63:1 crawl ratio, thats with a 2.92 1st gear ratio planets in my C5, 1350/1354 & 4.10 in the axles. Anyway it will make a big difference in the crawl capability, giving you much more control. I went with the kit from D.D. Machine ( http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=465032 ). The T&M kit seamed a little pricey & wasn't as short of a set up.

well i did the math earlier maybe i messed up i have a 5 speed 3.92 first gear, 3.92x2.48x2.48x5.13=123.6821 so roughly 124:1

oh i tried contacting him via PM's emails and phone no returns so fuck that danger ranger runs the same one im getting heat treated 1 piece shaft shafts and it comes with a 180 day warantee

oh i tried contacting him via PM's emails and phone no returns so fuck that danger ranger runs the same one im getting heat treated 1 piece shaft shafts and it comes with a 180 day warantee

COUGH *stubler* COUGH...:flipoff2:

T&M no longer make the doubler...

Oh...and BroncoII...you need to take into account your auto's torque converter is somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.5:1 (2.56 or so)...your calculations are off a BIT..:D

my rig..

a4ld 1st gear 2.47:1
1354 low is 2.48:1
doubler low (its a 1350/54 planetary) 2.48:1
axle ratio is 4.10:1
torque converter ratio is 2.56...

so its 2.48x2.48 to get the ratio of the doubler and the low in the t-case..=6.15:1

so...
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...awl_Ratio.html

159.44:1

yea...it crawls..once the new 5.13's are installed its 199..49:1..200:1 basically..


YOUR rig..
auto 2.92
doubler 6.15
axle 4.10
converter 2.56
188.48:1 :grinpimp:

i only got 68:1, but somewhat of a healthy motor. :laughing:

so whats mine im still all confused about it i think i have the mitubishi 5 speed

120:1 even with 42's is pretty fawkin slow... the hammers is about the only place I wish it was lower :D Like I've said the T&M adapter ain't that great, but it works... I doubt you'll have problems with the shaft. Cause I've wheeled my shit so fawkin hard and all i can break is cro-mo 60 shafts and d70 shafts and suspension parts and driveline and and and :laughing: I'm on the 3rd set of planetaries in my "doubler" case though :laughing:

so whats mine im still all confused about it i think i have the mitubishi 5 speed

well..heres the ratios for the years...
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TransRatios.html

it would probably be the FM145 or M5OD..(theres pix on TRS so go look!!)
both have the same 1st
trans 3.72
doubler 6.15
axle 5.13

117.36:1

last thing i knew of TandM no longer makes that doubler. DD and the stubler are your only options, (unless you make your own) as far as I know.

so whats mine im still all confused about it i think i have the mitubishi 5 speed

The Mitsubishi 5 speed has a removable pan that can be removed to inspect the transmission internals ( gears & stuff ) & a removable bell housing, used in the earlier model Rangers & Bronco IIs. The Mazda 5 speed does not have a removable pan or bell housing, used in later model Rangers & Explorers. The Mazda is a lot better transmission than the Mitsubishi, it's got larger internals than the Mitsubishi, the Mazda does have some issues that can cause some problems though. The Mazda 5 speeds have 3 rubber plugs in the shifter tower that leak, they can be replaced with steel plugs or you can remove them, clean them up with some brake clean & silicone them back in. They also have a tendency to wear out the stock aluminum bearing retainer inside the transmission causing the transmission to pop out of gear & make gears grind when shifting, but the aluminum retainer can be replaced with a steel aftermarket one during a rebuild. You can replace the Mitsubishi with the Mitsubishi transmission. If your lucky you could also get a lever shifted 1354 t-case with a Mitsubishi 5 speed transmission & use it with your doubler.
Mitsubishi
http://www.motivegear.com/tech_info/tranny_guide/images/nxfm146.jpg

Mazda
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/ToyoKoygoMazda.jpg

Oh...and BroncoII...you need to take into account your auto's torque converter is somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.5:1 (2.56 or so)...your calculations are off a BIT..:D



The 2.5 is the torque multiplication from the torque converters stator, it's not really changing the ratio, it's just multiplying the torque from the engine & along with the stall speed of the converter makes the gear ratio feel lower.

yeah right now i have the mitubishi and a 1354 thanks bro

The 2.5 is the torque multiplication from the torque converters stator, it's not really changing the ratio, it's just multiplying the torque from the engine & along with the stall speed of the converter makes the gear ratio feel lower.

right...its not changing the RATIO..but it does have a multiplication factor to the rating..so you CAN add it when figuring the total ratio at start in 1st..low/low....

and it makes my crawl ratio higher...:grinpimp:

The Mitsubishi 5 speed has a removable pan that can be removed to inspect the transmission internals ( gears & stuff ) & a removable bell housing, used in the earlier model Rangers & Bronco IIs. The Mazda 5 speed does not have a removable pan or bell housing, used in later model Rangers & Explorers. The Mazda is a lot better transmission than the Mitsubishi, it's got larger internals than the Mitsubishi, the Mazda does have some issues that can cause some problems though. The Mazda 5 speeds have 3 rubber plugs in the shifter tower that leak, they can be replaced with steel plugs or you can remove them, clean them up with some brake clean & silicone them back in. They also have a tendency to wear out the stock aluminum bearing retainer inside the transmission causing the transmission to pop out of gear & make gears grind when shifting, but the aluminum retainer can be replaced with a steel aftermarket one during a rebuild. You can replace the Mitsubishi with the Mitsubishi transmission. If your lucky you could also get a lever shifted 1354 t-case with a Mitsubishi 5 speed transmission & use it with your doubler.
Mitsubishi
http://www.motivegear.com/tech_info/tranny_guide/images/nxfm146.jpg

Mazda
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/ToyoKoygoMazda.jpg

what years used the Mazda tranny? 93-2000 OHV's?

yours should be the mazdog, if thats what your asking.

I work at a transmission shop ( 12 years now in the transmission industry ) so I've see a lot of vehicles & as far as I know Ford is still using the Mazda 5 speed in there Rangers & Explorers unless you've got a V8 Explorer, but I've only seen autos used with the V8s. I think you can find the Mazda 5 speed as early as 88 or 89 in the Rangers & Bronco IIs.

i have the mitubishi to a 1350 right now

I havnt had my computer for a couple days, but about my question....I know that if I use junkyard stuff and some cheap shocks, then yeah, I can get springs and shocks off of something for alot cheaper, but I was looking at new springs and shocks and whatnot....and yeah, with the needed hoop for the upper mount on the airshocks, then the cost would be more for the airshocks. I also liked the clean lines of the airshocks versus the spring/shock combo. Seeing the suspension and the way it is setup on white-rhinos rig, That is basically the way I plan on going....and seeings how well the airshocks work with his setup, it only makes me want to run them more....

On another note, instead of having to take and hack up a set of stock radius arms, does anyone know if there is a plate that you can buy to make your own links that would bolt onto the flont clamp setup of the Bronco / F150 axle setup and be able to weld tube to this clamp to make your own longarms, or is cutting and welding the stock radius arms about the only way to go about lenthening these arms if you want to keep the stock bushing setup with the wedges on the frontend?

Zach

P.S. - So Rhino, ya got any closeups of the lower mounts on those airshocks?

if your on a budget like i am grind them down plate them then sleeve them with 2" 1/4 wall DOM ill prolly plate mine more down the road let me check to see if i have any pics

here a crappy drawing for you
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/Image061b.jpg
pretty sure i already posted these but its the best i can do right now:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/RastarProductionDec20061021.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/SECTION%208/RastarProductionDec20061014.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/DSCN0702.jpg

bought a stubler...............................:flipoff2:

bought a stubler...............................:flipoff2:

dude...you'll freakin LOVE it...had some girl with me saturday when we double low and idled through the old mudpit...she about creamed her pants...(gotta love 4xchicks...)

and you'll find out if ya need to do the f350 master cyl swap...put it double low...and see if it'll stop....:grinpimp:

dude...you'll freakin LOVE it...had some girl with me saturday when we double low and idled through the old mudpit...she about creamed her pants...(gotta love 4xchicks...)

and you'll find out if ya need to do the f350 master cyl swap...put it double low...and see if it'll stop....:grinpimp:

Sure it will hes got a clutch...:flipoff2:

Sure it will hes got a clutch...:flipoff2:

:laughing: D'OH!!

sorry...the last post on crawl ratios in this thread from me was for an auto...I ham we todd did...:D

im sure the dual pistons and single pistons in the rear will stop her hahahaha we will see...

im sure the dual pistons and single pistons in the rear will stop her hahahaha we will see...

stops mine with 4.10's...i'll find out next spring on the 5.13's...:grinpimp:

sorry for the jack but if anyone wants a good head start on one of these you can get mine for a grand. here it is. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=36

sorry here it is http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=537575

wow alot of hijacking

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/roob064.jpg


hey Rhino...how much mud/crap do ya get inside with the low cut on that door??

how do ya likem for gettin in and out?? (I got sliders so theres a step in for me..but im lookin to make another set of half doors...)

took mine out yesterday...had a quickloc fail on me..but I still gotta see what the dealio is with it..might have been a bad unit...
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/558864060jOlLcs
http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g179/1911bg/painted%20rock%204-29-07/

i got pretty muddy when i went to frank reines a few months back im too big to get in through the driver side with the steering wheel they are pretty nice to see where you are going though i have to stop being lazy and make another on for the passenger side

gfbgreaser289 dont post your shit in here trying to act like its in the same class as mine or a few other of the rangers in the ford section. I dont appreciate when fuck heads like yourself try to pose with a thrown together heap of shit :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
oh and no offense...

gfbgreaser289 dont post your shit in here trying to act like its in the same class as mine or a few other of the rangers in the ford section. I dont appreciate when fuck heads like yourself try to pose with a thrown together heap of shit :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
oh and no offense...

but ya do get a chuckle outta it...at least ours get wheeled...(and sofar not bankrupted us..sofar...):D

-points for hijacking a thread with your for sale stuff..:flipoff2:

well my rear pinion bearing blew up so i finally got to pull it apart take a look at the pinion hugggggge also a pic of Marios Smashrail2000 in this month issue of OFF-ROAD adventures page 24 (im ridin shotgun)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/050107_10573.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/050107_10572.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/050107_10511.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/S5000474.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/mag.jpg

That pinion shaft is massive. Congrats on the mag entry, you should buy yourself a better camera (than whatever took those shaft pics) in celebration.

yea damn razor fone

heres some crappy pics of the tire grooving i did today
front:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/groove1.jpg
rears:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/groove2.jpg

looks like you were in a hurry

yeah the rears i rushed on i might do more before i leave tomorrow

What did you use to groove them?

im not sure the brand but its a tire groover i borrowed from a buddy i guess it was like $120 works great electric grover with a u shape blade which gets friggin hot cuts like butter

Wow.....tires are startin to look pretty bald there boss.....whata ya thinkin bout running next? Whats the width your running those H1 rims at?

Zach

BTW- I read the whole Sierra Trek article in that magazine and saw that pic.....that looks like an awesome wheeling trip I've always wanted to make but couldn't since I live about 2500 miles east of ya'll..

yeah they are pretty bald but grooving them helped alot. they are stock width H1's i might go to 38.5 or 39.5 TSLs depends on what i can find for cheap.

Fourdyce is an awesome trail for sure keep an eye out we will be there alot this summer maybe we will get in another mag

Went To The Con Awesome Trip Ill Post Pics Later

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4179.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4180.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4181.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4192.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4197.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4202.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4204.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4213.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4214.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4217.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4218.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4225.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4228.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4229.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4232.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4241.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4246.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4249.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4255.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4258.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4257.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4259.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4261.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4271.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4280.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4283.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4284.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4285.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4287.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4288.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4299.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4305.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4306.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4307.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/RUBICON%20may5/IMG_4317.jpg

Is there ANY rock left on the rubicon you didn't pose on and take a pic of it? :flipoff2:

nope ha!

BRRRRRrrrrrr:eek:

looks like a good time!!

it was a fun trip for sure it was pretty cold but not unbearable

Hay man thats a very nice rig . I like those doors you should market them....

Tim

thanks man i might do that

I have a question, how do the air-shocks treat you on the trail? Any regrets?

i like them alot as i have said many times in this thread i want longer ones and bigger ones though and i definitely need bump stops still

what have u done to ur engine any upgrades? r u running a carb? if u r how bad is it when u crawl?

motor is stock 2.9 liter EFI engine is stock apart from intake and exhaust runs like a champ

i like them alot as i have said many times in this thread i want longer ones and bigger ones though and i definitely need bump stops still

Yea, I just don't like reading through 10 pages when I can just ask :D :flipoff2:

i like them alot as i have said many times in this thread i want longer ones and bigger ones though and i definitely need bump stops still

Yea, I just don't like reading through 10 pages when I can just ask :D :flipoff2:

Hey i know this is probably in this thread somewhere but ten pages is alot to look through.

How long are your rear shackles, what angle are they at, and what size lift block are you running?

Sweet rig man

thanks bro i think i cut the shackles at 6" eye to eye im not sure of the angle 30 degree maybe 2 inch block i set it up with no block and it looked stock