Hey,

Just got the RTE springs last week and found a few hours to throw them on the wife's LWB.

I went with the 3 inch springs because this truck will be laden pretty well most of the time and will see light to moderate off-roading at least 100 days a year in the not so distant future.

Initial impressions: Truck sure *looks* good with those springs on it, now for the ride...

I was expecting a truly dramatic change, but the springs feel almost identical to the OME MD springs that are on my SWB RR. I don't keep track of spring #'s, so forgive me.

I really do like the way it rides and handles, and I will certainly appreciate the extra clearance it gives the body, but I still want MORE!!!

I don't know if it's possible due to the laws of physics, but what I really truely want is a spring with the ride height of the 3" RTE, but with the ride characteristics of stock RR springs.

I know it's a lot to ask for in a metal spring, so I am really seriously going to try to develop that air-bag replacement that I've been threatening for a while now.

I probably won't get the 'plushness' of a stock RR spring with the airbag, but at least I'll get my adjustability like I want as well.

Anyone else running the RTE springs? Are there any spring theorists out there who can tell me why it's hard to get a soft supple TALL spring?

Thanks,

Michael

PS Now I need 9014's in the front, and 9012's in the back and some longer brakelines, but that's going to be a while out...

Pics we wanna see pics...

Which RTEs did you get?

The SP1/2 set I would think would give the plushest ride.

I have a combo of 220(custom) 250# 3in RTE springs on the RR and it is like night and day between that and the OME HD sprung disco. So much smoother. And its not just the truck either. I had OME HDs on the RR and took them off for the current set up.

Also give it a little bit of time. It takes a few flex cycles before the springs looosen up a bit, or at least thats the way it felt to me.

I think if you wanted super soft the SP2 20.5 in RTE springs on all four corners with maybe spacers in the back would be the way to go. SG stage III springs are supposedly 150# rate and 3in but the trucks I have been in with that set up are really tippy. As you go up you have to go stiffer or you really pay for it in handling. The only way to cheat a bit is to use progressive springs and or swaybars with disconnects

Ron

RTE makes a ton of different rates and if you talk to john he can make just about anything for you. I am running 220 fronts and 180 rears, and my truck has a very supple ride. Granted I don't have nearly the weight that you do in a LWB, but I think what was said earlier is your only true option, going to progressive springs. I think the stock LWB springs are 133-250 progressive so it is difficult for a 220 to have that initial give that a 133 would have. I am pretty sure that John also makes some progressive springs, but I am not sure of the rates. However if you have retained the sway bars you should be able to go to a lower spring rate and not notice too much of a difference especially if it is going to be used off road that much. Definately get us some pics of that truck
-ben

Well it looks like I'll have to wash her truck now and take some pictures!

Now if I can just remember where I put that digital camera.......

I'll put a run-down of all the equipment and spring specs in the post that has the pics. Probably won't be until tonight, so don't hold your breath.

Thanks for all the help. I *thought* I knew a lot about springs. Now I'm learning the truth...

Later,

Michael

Looks like it's time to go with a set of coil-overs...Triple rate...That way you have two or three small springs that will do all the job's you require...Lift, spring rate, dampening. Not only that, but you can over-charge/under charge the cylinder by 50 psi for a little stiffer/softer dampening.

At first the cost seems high for a quality coil-over...I paid $550 each...But when you consider the price for a custom spring (one every other season) and a Bilstein remote reservoir shock, the price isn't so bad.

--D

Here is the first of two pictures of the Slade's LWB RR.

Here is the second of two.

Here's an FYI concerning the equipment I have on the LWB. It's mainly to judge the weight as it sits in the pic more than anything. A complete rundown is as follows:

1994 LWB Range Rover
235/85/16 Dunlop Radial Rover R/T's
Powdercoated alloy rims
ARB winch bumper
Warn Series 12 Commercial Winch
Optima Blue-Top (possible second battery in future)
Warn SDB-160 lights
IPF lights/loom/bulbs
ARB lockers front and rear
ARB compressor
4:11 gears
Sewer Capped axle housings (f & r)
Strengthened tie rods
Shortened ARB roofrack w/rack mounted spare (re-powdercoated black)
Empty gas tank

Additional equipment not installed (that will weigh anything worth considering for spring load):

ARB freezer/fridge (30 quart model)
Sliders
Rear bumper (maybe)

That's about it as far as wight is concerned. The sliders and fridge should be the heaviest items yet to install. I should have shot it with a full tank of gas and the fridge in the back. The fridge doesn't really weigh that much, but the sliders will probably weigh a little.

Any ideas on who makes GOOD LWB sliders???

Michael

Duh,

I forgot the springs/shocks:

Front are RTE RR1-3
Rear are RTE RR4-3

Shocks are Rancho 9000's

Front 9014
Rear 9143

M

Looks good!

"GOOD LWB sliders"

Rovertym now offers his sliders with additional outriggers for those that think they have any chance of bending the sills. You can also get them without the little nerf bar thing too.

I am happy with the Rockwares on the disco maybe Matt can make LWB sliders?

You also got the HD Rovertym springs. I have ask if you were looking for tall and supple why you went this way?

OTOH if you NEED the weight carring capasity then maybe you made the right decision on springs. I was able to go light in the back on my RR BUT I have a working BOGE SLU. Its really tough to have your cake and eat it too with metal springs.

Ron

Yeah, I did need the load carrying capacity.

Remember, there was never an SLU ever fitted to any air-sprung LR's. So, I never had the option of using it (not that there's anything wrong with that! :rainbow: )

Anyhoo, the stiffness will be decreased as they break in and as the truck is used fully laden.

BTW, I ordered 2 different Firestone airsprings today. Should be here next week and I can start playing! (er...working...)

I really want to have my cake and eat it too, but I'm not sure that coilovers really are the answer (maybe it's just sticker shock???).

Anyway, it's interesting working out these little problems.

M

Are there still mud flaps on that thing? WOW!

Nice looking ride though.

I have a similar set up rig, only I have ome heavies in the rear, and no SLU as well. I have 9012's in the rear. I often wheel with a full 3/4 length rack & camping gear for 3, 6gal of water and 10gal of fuel, along with two 90lb shepherds in the boot. I don't get tippy as long as I have the shocks set on 5. Empty I just run the dampers on 1 and it still rides like a truck, but I don't have sway bars so I need the stiffness. I think you made the right choice. I routinely hit +30 lean angles without incident loaded.

Matt definetly will make you a set of sliders, and they are quite beefy.

jk