I am swapping from 3 to 5" stuff.:D
However, cannot seem to fit the 5" spring in there?
Wheel off, shock off, lift the body and drop the axle. okay.
used coil spring compressors, and I am still about 1" shy of getting them in there.

thoughts-
is the Boge unit the culprit? It is coming out with the install, but have not gone after it yet.
drop BOTH side of the axle, taking the other tire off at the same time?

ideas anyone? Who is already running the 5" springs?

well personally either way you do it i would pull the boge unit before you bother trying to install springs, i like to have everything that is being removoed allready off before i start putting it back together. just curious you are using RTE springs right?

RTEs, correct.

It's easier if you disassemble everything, including the upper link. Those springs are huge.

Definitely remove the self-leveler first.

If I ever get a chance to tell the guys at RTE in person what I think of their eight hour estimate of the amount of time require dto do that job, they might just change the estimate.

How long did it take you? I never asked them, maybe they were counting on every bolt being rusted and seized like my other truck:p
It will take me about that I guess, I am working on it in the little breaks I have in the evenings until this weekend. Sounds like the bottle jack method is the way to go, based on replies on Dweeb.

How long did it take you? I never asked them, maybe they were counting on every bolt being rusted and seized like my other truck:p
It will take me about that I guess, I am working on it in the little breaks I have in the evenings until this weekend. Sounds like the bottle jack method is the way to go, based on replies on Dweeb.

To do the full-blown "kit" was pushing 40 hours. It turned into a nightmare with the bolts frozen, etc. Check out my thread here when I built AFIRover's truck last year. five-inch lift my ass was the title, I believe.

PT

I know they have done some there at the shop in a Saturday, but not sure how many hands were working at the time.

To do the full-blown "kit" was pushing 40 hours. It turned into a nightmare with the bolts frozen, etc. Check out my thread here when I built AFIRover's truck last year. five-inch lift my ass was the title, I believe.

PT

yeah but, you were factoring in all the other shiot to set his truck up right, not just dropping in the springs. :cool2:


regardless of installation times, i just don't see these springs making any sense on a stock trailing link / radius arm configuration. cramming those things in there might look good for a little while but they're going to cause problems. see the other threads regarding shifting the spring plates so the spring sits vertical and does't slinky, and also the extension on the upper a-arm ball joint. as for the front axle, i don't know where to start. you have no way to adjust your pinion angle and you're going to bind early at the frame even with "corrected" arms. why run all that lift if you're not going to setup a real suspension under the truck :confused: :confused: maybe i'm missing something

I believe Steve said he and drew can do a complete 5" kit in 6 hours with the 2 of them...gimme a call if you need anymore jack stands and muscle chuck.

I believe Steve said he and drew can do a complete 5" kit in 6 hours with the 2 of them...gimme a call if you need anymore jack stands and muscle chuck.

LOL! I had damn near that much in just the A-arm extension!:flipoff2:

But, I didn't even have Shopboy for most of that job.

PT

I believe Steve said he and drew can do a complete 5" kit in 6 hours with the 2 of them...gimme a call if you need anymore jack stands and muscle chuck.


I've seen them in action, I believe it.

yeah but, you were factoring in all the other shiot to set his truck up right, not just dropping in the springs. :cool2:


regardless of installation times, i just don't see these springs making any sense on a stock trailing link / radius arm configuration. cramming those things in there might look good for a little while but they're going to cause problems. see the other threads regarding shifting the spring plates so the spring sits vertical and does't slinky, and also the extension on the upper a-arm ball joint. as for the front axle, i don't know where to start. you have no way to adjust your pinion angle and you're going to bind early at the frame even with "corrected" arms. why run all that lift if you're not going to setup a real suspension under the truck :confused: :confused: maybe i'm missing something

Nothing is stock. Front and rear arms are RTE, shock mounts, blada blada blada... The goal is more up travel, less dependence on down travel. The Boge never gave me problems before, but it makes sense to pull it while I am under there doing the locker. The heim jointed rear arms just seem to be too high maintenence for the extra freedom, given that this truck is more of a trail truck, less of a rock crawler. If we chop the other RRC and bob it, I may try some new things on that one, but this seems like it will do what I need it to at the moment.

BTW, the bottle jack did the trick in no time, both springs on in about an hour with no beer:flipoff2:

So for someone running the 5" springs, at full stuff how much space still resided between the axle and frame?

I would think that moving the top spring mounts up on the frame and then making the radious, trailing, and A frame longer, ie moving frame mounts, would be the way to go.
And with the frame mounts, as well as moving to fit longer arms, also move them so that the stock geometry is there.

IMO If you actually need 5" or more of lift just to fit tires I feel that a sawzall needs to come into play. I think that 5" springs should only provide 2-3" of actuall lift, but together with longer shocks and modified arms can provide a greater range of motion to the system as a whole. Wether we are talking Series/Defender or Disco or RRC the vehicle just has to narrow of a track to go jacking them sky high with out some serious consequences.

It seems like the 5" lift works well on the D1/RRC(when using ALL the proper components). Cptyarderho and I have been on many outings with RTE Steve and his truck performs VERY well, isn't all hacked up like some are, and goes effortlessly through areas where slightly smaller trucks struggle.

Want to sell your 3"s?

I have done some liberal cutting. I had 34s already, and I am not doing this for a bigger tire. I appreciate the perspective, but having wheeled this truck for about 2 years, I have a good idea of what it could do at 3 inches, and what I want it to do now. This will give me more stuffage, less droop. If needed, I may go to another trailing arm setup, but I will wheel it and see. I hope to get back to Tellico this summer, as well as Rausch Creek. In talking to the people I know with similar setups, and the 5" setup seems to be the best compromise of the problems with a Rover setup.

I have done some liberal cutting. I had 34s already, and I am not doing this for a bigger tire. I appreciate the perspective, but having wheeled this truck for about 2 years, I have a good idea of what it could do at 3 inches, and what I want it to do now. This will give me more stuffage, less droop. If needed, I may go to another trailing arm setup, but I will wheel it and see. I hope to get back to Tellico this summer, as well as Rausch Creek. In talking to the people I know with similar setups, and the 5" setup seems to be the best compromise of the problems with a Rover setup.

Do you still need a rear locker? :grinpimp:

So for someone running the 5" springs, at full stuff how much space still resided between the axle and frame?



There isn't much room. Depending upo tire/rim combo, he tire/rim can become the limiting factor due to tire interference with the sprigns/body/other parts hanging around down there.

PT

springs and shocks all in with ease, tomorrow the Boge comes out, with impact wrench or sawzall, we shall see.

I've been getting a new bracket for the rear A arm (part # NRC3923) that will solve the issues PT had with trying to re-use it. This part is from a 110 and does not have the socket for the self leveling unit. Buy it ahead of time and save some time.... its about $50 well spent. Makes it so you CAN do a whole suspension in 8-10 hrs (springs, shocks, arms and brake lines)

With the 5" springs it is not enough to just use the "cranked " radius arms as unless you also rotate the swivels all you are doing is correcting the caster and creating a bad pinion angle (if using a double cardan D-shaft, which I'd imagine you'd have to).

Personally I think that the 5" springs are too much, although they work well if you move the spring perches up about 2". That and a 2" body lift and you have a 5" lift, a lower CG and the droop of something with those silly relocation cones while retaining the springs.....opps almost forgot :flipoff2:

swivel ball mod is a must at some point this spring to make it more driveable.