Brian wanted to see some pics, so I obliged.

I got the speedo drive installed. This is a '94, so I kept the original drive. Bolted right in.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/speedodriveinstalled.jpg

Took one of the studs off of the BW case and transferred it to the LT230. The lower stud wouldn't come out of the BW, so I found a bolt that would fit. I think it's one of the t-case mount bolts. Anyway, there's plenty of depth in that lower hole, I don't think you cold get a bolt to interfere with anything inside even if you had to. Also picked up a seal. Got it at the dealer, so apologies for not having a CB replacement. As it was, $12 and I was out the door. They had *ONE* in stock. :rolleyes: Installed it with a rubber mallet and all is good. Test fit the input shaft for good measure.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/sealandstudinwithhammer.jpg

Two views of the BW sitting on the floor. You can see the studs from the frontside. I think I remember there being bolts on the last swap I did...can't remember for sure.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/BWonjack.jpg

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/BWonjack2.jpg

Got the linkages all re-done, new grease, some new bolts/nylocks, etc...thought I'd see how it's all going to bolt up, so I put the linkage on with it sitting on the bench. Only later when I got the t-case installed into the truck did I realize that the linkage mock-up was on backward. Doh! :shaking:

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/mockupLT230.jpg

So I got it in the truck tonight, got most of the easy bolts installed and will finish tomorrow. I realized that I didn't put in a retaining clip on one of the linkage pins, hopefully I remember to install it tomorrow.

Also the fun of doing the tunnel cover shift knob boot thing arrives. I'm going to try to find an old yellow knob from a series truck for the shifter. I might have one laying around somewhere. Short of that, does anyone have an old D1 or RRC knob with the correct diagram printed on it?

I don't think you guys want pics of me installing the exhaust, cross-member or the driveshaft, so that will probably be it for the pics. Hope they are purty enough for 'ya.

:flipoff2:

how much did u pay for the lt230? i dont mind the bw but if i had an lt230 i could easily unlock the transfer case and unlock the hubs on the front d44 and drive in 2wd.

I traded a 4.2 for the t-case. Something makes me think I got the short end of the deal though.

On the CrewCab I have an LT-230 that has been converted to part-time 4wd. I also have freewheeling hubs on the front Rover axle, and drive it around in rear wheel drive 99% of the time.

That mod saved my bacon on one trip where I blew the ring gear and didn't want to fix it on the trail (up in the Tillamook BTW...). Unlocked the hubs, went into 2wd and drove all the way home to Vegas before I could fix it. :D

soounds like a fun trip! brown camp? i cant wait to get my axles under the ranger rover!

The way to do an LT230 cheap is to find one with a blown diff and buy the AVM kit. Just make sure the cross pins in the diff are ok as they are reused in the AVM part time kit. I have fixed up maye a half dozen LT230s (using probably twice that in cores) and at least half of the time the center diff is the broken bit. I think the most I ever paid was $100 or so for a busted one.

I traded a 4.2 for the t-case. Something makes me think I got the short end of the deal though.


That's not what you said at the time!:flipoff2: Keep in mind the 4.2 still needs headwork and the LT-230 should have gone in pretty easily.

'Allegedly' the cross pins from the BW can be used in the LT-230. If that's the case, then you could probably source a gazillion crosspins from trashed BW's.

Gotta get it finished today! :flipoff2:

soounds like a fun trip! brown camp? i cant wait to get my axles under the ranger rover!

Brown Camp is far too busy, PM me and I'll give you some ideas of other places. There are some places in the Tillamook where you can roll your truck if you're not REAL careful!


PT

Do the cross pins actually fail often? I've never seen one fail, but I'd rather fix it before it does.....

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/mockupLT230.jpg


Really have to admire someone that has studio back drops and lights set up in their garage :laughing:

Really have to admire someone that has studio back drops and lights set up in their garage :laughing:

Studio back drop = one dinged up, spray painted piece of foam-core (yes, it did originally come from the studio...)

Lights = Home Depot 2-light halogen specials...course, when you know how to color balance and diffuse lights, anything can work.

:flipoff2:

Wrestling with the linkage all morning. Took a break to get a sammich.

Wrestling with the linkage all morning. Took a break to get a sammich.

I told you it was a PITA!:flipoff2:

Really have to admire someone that has studio back drops and lights set up in their garage :laughing:

I dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete :) Its like the old "find the creature" game in the Weekly Reader :)

I dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete :) Its like the old "find the creature" game in the Weekly Reader :)

I'll take one of those too. :laughing:

Interesting information discovered today. Pics will probably describe better than words...but here's the words.

The Borg-Warner e-brake cannot be used on an LT-230...let me re-phrase that. You can use the BW on the LT-230, but you will only be able to bolt it on with three bolts. Only three of the holes line up correctly, and the e-brake is cocked 90-degrees CCW. You could easily drill a hole to fit the LT-230 and use all four bolts. I happened to have an LT-230 e-brake from a Disco1 and used it w/out having to drill any holes.

For comparison's sake I photographed both e-brakes, lined them up and indicated holes in the following pic.

For those who know Photoshop, you can download a higher-res version of that image, complete with layers and saved as a .PSD file so that you can see what is going on in detail.

For those who don't know Photoshop, you could probably eyeball where the hole would need to be drilled and make your BW e-brake work perfectly fine on an LT-230.

Here's the low-rez pic:

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/ebrakeholecomparison.jpg

To download the high-rez pic, download THIS LINK. (http://www.tawayama.com/blog/ebrakeholecomparison.psd)

You may have to take off the .html tag to get it to open as a .PSD file.

One thing I don't remember anyone mentioning when doing the conversion, is that the right-side t-case mount will need two additional M12 bolts. The original BW t-case mount uses two bolts, the LT-230 mount uses four.

Also, on my install, it seems like there won't need to be any major modification of the tunnel cover. I did get a swanky square rubber shift-boot from Six States when I dropped off my rear driveline to be rebuilt. If I need it I'll take pics of that too.

Crazy George is supposedly sending me the correct shifter knob, so that'll be cool.

I'm using Lucas diff oil 75w90 synthetic in the t-case. Didn't hook up any sensors, except for the speedo drive. Am considering hooking up the temp sensor.

There's more, I'm sure, if/when I remember, I'll add to this thread.

The Borg-Warner e-brake cannot be used on an LT-230...let me re-phrase that. You can use the BW on the LT-230, but you will only be able to bolt it on with three bolts. Only three of the holes line up correctly, and the e-brake is cocked 90-degrees CCW. You could easily drill a hole to fit the LT-230 and use all four bolts. I happened to have an LT-230 e-brake from a Disco1 and used it w/out having to drill any holes.


Very cool.
I did pretty much the same thing to get the series brake mounted onto the D-18.

I dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete :) Its like the old "find the creature" game in the Weekly Reader :)

LOL

I will start hidding gun parts and other stuff in the back ground

I dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete :) Its like the old "find the creature" game in the Weekly Reader :)

This pic is for you Keith.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/LT230swapscenesmall.jpg

If you want a higher-rez version, click HERE (http://www.tawayama.com/blog/LT230swapscene.jpg)

See if you can find the input shaft that I didn't end up using. :D Send me your address and I'll send it back. It was good for the mock-up, but since mine was dirtier and yours was clean, I thought I'd use my old dingy one. :flipoff2:

This pic is for you Keith.


Dude, who ever did the chop and stretch on your RRC shoulc be shot. Hope you didn't pay for that :flipoff2:

Oh and I hope that is an old, ragged out, POS Thermarest and not a good one.

Dude, who ever did the chop and stretch on your RRC shoulc be shot. Hope you didn't pay for that :flipoff2:

Oh and I hope that is an old, ragged out, POS Thermarest and not a good one.

:laughing: It *WAS* a nice Thermarest until it got two holes in it. I HATE Thermarests. I only use Mtn. Hardware foam pads now. No problems with deflation and MUCH more comfy.

Funny Thermarest story...

Several years ago I was conned into going on a 50 mile-hike with the Boy Scouts. I hadn't really looked at my camping gear in years, but threw it all together and headed out.

First night I wake up on my Thermarest I had when *I* was a Boy Scout, it is totally deflated. I was so mad, I blew it up again thinking the old metal valve was stuck open.

About 2 hours later I woke up again furious. I couldn't sleep the rest of the night I was so mad. I was looking up at the stars wondering how I was going to get through the next 5 nights with no pad.

Of course I had no patch kit. Got home and bought a new Thermarest, which promptly got two more holes in it. Pieces of crap. :mad3:

:laugh:

I guess I have just been very very lucky. Got tired of the hard thin mats we got issued and picked up a thermarest about 4 years ago and love it.

Wow!

Why is other peoples garage stuff always more interesting than my own :)

When you get tired of moving those green station wagon doors around let me know ... as regards the stub shaft ... it makes a great paperweight.

I certainly don't need it before Summer, maybe we'll see you then.

KAA

ed.. Oh, is that it on the corner of the workbench by the cordless drill?

Wow!

Why is other peoples garage stuff always more interesting than my own


Because you realise that in the end you will need to clean your own

ed.. Oh, is that it on the corner of the workbench by the cordless drill?

Hehe, you found it. :laughing:

Well, I got it done, went for a drive around the block. Can't figure out which sensor to hook up to silence that infernal alarm! :mad3:

Figuring out which direction the shifter knob needed to be to be in diff-lock was interesting. Left and back is high-difflock.

Still don't have a front driveline, so that makes donuts in the church parking lot very easy...fun too! :flipoff2:

Can't figure out which sensor to hook up to silence that infernal alarm! :mad3:



The one you took out!

I cut the end of the neutral safety switch harness off of the BW case, spliced the two cut wires together and plugged it into the harness on truck. No more beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep.

Post #21 in my swap thread explains it more.

http://www.alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=22767&highlight=lt230

I cut the end of the neutral safety switch harness off of the BW case, spliced the two cut wires together and plugged it into the harness on truck. No more beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep.

So, that must have been the sensor that I had to cut the wires to, no wait, that was the temp sensor. The neutral safety switch has that funky round connector with the o-ring and three pins (two are used), right?

I'll splice'n'plug rather than tear the dash apart. That will be my permanent solution I believe. Thanks for saving me 30 minutes of scratching my head. :confused:

Yes it is the round one but not the round one that plugs into the temp sensor.

Here is a picture, it's the only plug on the back of the BW. It terminates where the shift linkage attaches to the case.

http://homepage.mac.com/noahlmil/images/tcase2.jpg

Gotcha, so it's the one that has the round plug...the temp sensor in your pic is blocked by the diff-lock sensor plug...right?

In my pic, I think the one you're talking about is the one with the round plug, and my temp sensor has cut wires.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/BWonjack2.jpg

Right??? So, I can take the plug that went to the diff-lock lock-out solenoid, cut off the end, splice it together, and then plug it back into the factory harness. This will result in no annoying alarm?

Very nice.

Thanks again.

Oh yeah...:flipoff2:

Yes
















No problem. :flipoff2:

Oh, and your shop floor is way too clean.

Mike, thanks for the great pics. I'm encouraged to do my install finally.

Mike and group, I have some questions about the temp and speedo sensors on an LT230 - hopefully it's alright to hijack your thread?

Let me start by referencing this picture:

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/mockupLT230.jpg

I have an LT230 from a 97 D1 which I'm putting in my 95 RRC LWB.

My first questions: Is that the temp sensor at the right most edge of the picture, on the side and at the back of of the input housing? Can I just use this sensor or do I need to transplant the one from my BW TC?

Second, from what I've gathered, my truck and my LT230 have a VSS, not the mechanical speedo cable that you have(http://www.tawayama.com/blog/speedodriveinstalled.jpg) right? Are all VSS sensors the same, or again do I need to transplant?

Thanks in advance. if you guys can suffer a newbie asking more questions I have some more...

You should be fine using all of the sensors on the transplant case. When I put the LT-230 in to my 95 RRC I just plugged everything in and off I went. Except for the neutral warning buzzer but that problem is covered in the above posts.

Slade-

what do you use to clean (ie case) your parts with?

Slade-

what do you use to clean (ie case) your parts with?

I'm guessing pressure washer??? It almost looks as though it was disassembled and run through a VAT.

You should be fine using all of the sensors on the transplant case. When I put the LT-230 in to my 95 RRC I just plugged everything in and off I went. Except for the neutral warning buzzer but that problem is covered in the above posts.

Thanks!

I have 2 little black brackets on my LT - I will try to post pics soon - one is ont he side of the Hi-Lo shift casing and the other is on the back of the PTO - I have never seen these on other pictues of LTs - does anyone know what I'm talking about?

I have 2 little black brackets on my LT - I will try to post pics soon - one is ont he side of the Hi-Lo shift casing and the other is on the back of the PTO - I have never seen these on other pictues of LTs - does anyone know what I'm talking about?

Are they the sheet metal cable clamps?

-Jeff

Slade-

what do you use to clean (ie case) your parts with?

It pretty much came that way. If it's dirty, I just use a whole bunch of brake cleaner, some of those red rags, maybe a brass brush. No VAT ( :( ), and even thinking of using the dishwasher to clean car parts gets me a dirty look from my wife.

I've also done the car-wash a few times with big nasty parts...dunno if I cleaned that t-case at all though really. PT delivered the thing, so blame/ask him. :flipoff2:

Are they the sheet metal cable clamps?

-Jeff

They're some thin black painted sheet metal. They kind pf stick away form the LT and look like they may ber cable routers or something....I wasn't able to get a good picture last night, and it's snowing now so it will be a few days until I can get a decent picture....do I need those?

One more question for y'all: I can shift the CDL in and out no problem and it does lock up the outputs :)

But I'm not able to shift the hi-low lever at all with my hand - is thissomething I should be able to do easily?

Rotate the output flanges a little and use a wrench to add little leverage.

-Jeff