I had a '91 s10 that started out stock on 33's and then had a d30 front spring under with 4" yj leafs, 9" rear spring over on stock springs, and a beat to shit body. The body got too beat/ rotten so it got thrown away and morphed into a buggy and I got sick of breaking the 30 so I swapped in a 44 front. I like the buggy but it's a cobbled pile and it's time to build a new rig.

I'm thinking another s10, what are some things you would do over if you could build another s10?

I'm thinking coils instead of leafs with the front end pushed forward a couple inches and gain more turning radius, might put in a full width instead of narrowed 44 front.

Flipping the rear springs for more wheel base without the overhang.

rock sliders so i can keep doors on it/ the body semi straight

dove nose the front end to keep it straight

It wouldn't happen to be the red S-10 buggy at NMU would it??? Was a sweet rig. Guess if I were me, I would go for the gold. Tube the frame all the way like you wanted instead of using part S-10 frame, part tube. This will allow you to mount everything the way yu really would like it (Radiator, seats, drivetrain, etc.) Coils in the front, set the wheelbase you want. Are you gonna stick with the 4.3, or go V8 this time??? A V8 may require a 60 in the front to hold the extra weight/power. Going with bigger tires too??

The V8 weighs about 175 pounds more then the 4.3.

If your going tube frame, it dont really matter what you start with.

If your keeping the frame. Find a '92 or earlier S10-Blazer with the 4.3L in it. 2drs are 100.5" wheelbase while the 4drs are 107". Push the front axle forward a couple inchs to help with firewall clearance and run coils up front. I know you guys dont like body lifts, however a 2" body lift will help fit that V8. Firewall clearance for headers and distriburator, and rear tire clearance on 4drs. Plus it will give you room to remove the tranny, work on/remove the starter, or the exhaust syetem. Without that extra couple of inches things get really tight under there. Spring over or 4 link in back with a ford 9" or Exploder 8.8" if your keeping it stock wideth. Up front find a D44 in either wideth to match the back. '90-'92 will still be a 700R4/4L60 tranny ('93 is the first year of the 4L60E in the S10-Blazers) with a NP231/NP233 t-case, or run whatever you want. Run a set of 35"-37" tires. Hack the fenders and keep the lift down to 5"-6". 2dr will be easier to hack the rear fenders, although with the 4dr you can push the rear axle back a few inches to clear the back door, like clearing the firewall up front.

The frame will be boxed to the tranny cross brace, and nothing will hang below the frame rails. Skip plates should be easy, couple of bumpers and rock sliders and beat the shit out of it.

A '90-'92 S10-Blazer weighs about 3,300-3,500 pounds.

If you go with the V8 swap, the engine will bolt up to the tranny, and the radiator should work just fine, especially with electric fans and an external tranny cooler. Plus the oil filter is remotely mounted so you could put it anywhere you want, provided you run a check valved oil filter.

Me, I am building a '87 S10-Blazer. It has the lowely 2putt8 and the reason I recommend finding one with a 4.3. I have a 4.3 that needs rebuilt that I plan on dropping in, then I need a tranny to rebuild and drop it in behind it. I do plan on keeping it close to stock wideth (street legal) and D44 with coils up front and spring over in back (undecided about rear axle), eventually going to 4 link in back. Run 35"-37" tires. Build some tube bumpers, rock sliders, skid plates, and a full roll cage for protection. Hopefully keep it under 3,500 pounds. Lot's of work, but I have time. Keeping it street legal until the ole lady realizes she likes to go wheeling. :D

i am with you, im in the middle of body swapping right now and have been contemplateing what to change

things i am going to stick with becuase they have worked well:
-tbi 4.3 low milage engine that i rebuilt anyway, very reliable, had to turn the key to shut if off when it was upside down (runs at any angle), lightweight, has enough power to move along with traffic yet doesnt break parts.
-700r4 with a TCI reverse manual valve body.
-231 case wth jb conversions sye because its stock case and hasnt broken yet
-roll cage- saved my ass when i rolled
-half doors, very fun and nice for wheeling and summer time
-rear springs. I am running custom leaf packs with main leafs out of an old chevy flat bed 1ton if i remember right they are 59 OR 60" long. They locate the axle maybe 3/4 inch farther back then stock and add about 2-3 inches total to the spring so i run a longer shackle and it really works well for how simple it is
-8 lug axles - share tires with my friends
-14 shaved bolt rear. best rear axle in my opinion
-locked front and rear- biggest difference in what the truck will do

things i'm upgrading
- dana 60, no way to get around that I need it but when i ran 35s the d44 was fine even locked
- better bumpers
- simplify/neaten wiring
- maybe hydro steer.

Coils are quite a bit more expensive, but I love mine.
My 37s are in their stock location, we didn't move the axle forward much at all, if any. Because of the way coils work, they cycle forward rather than backward like leafs, so with some cutting of the front fender, the rear of the fender isn't an issue at all.

It wouldn't happen to be the red S-10 buggy at NMU would it??? Was a sweet rig. Guess if I were me, I would go for the gold.


Yeah that's the rig, I live over by vinnys. You have a rig? Any chance I would know you? It used to be the green s10 with flames the year before, it's a great rig but a pile, it will be alive till mayish when I start on a new one.

My current buggy has a 110" wheel base, 4.3, 5 speed, 231 (still slip yoke), 60" wide HP 44 with a spool crossover/ high steer, early bronco 9" welded, 4.56 gears, 36" tsl's on bead locks. If I build a new rig it will probably get the axles, motor, trans, t-case, tires/ wheels, I like the long wheel base.

I have acess to 2 single cab s10's, 1 is a short box 4x4, 2.8 auto, 1 is a long box 2x4, 2.8, auto both have rust in the cab corrners.

I'm thinking swap in my drive train into the 2x4 long box, I figure less stuff to cut off for the straight axle, bob the box, dove nose the front end end, boat side it to get rid of the rusty cab corrners, solid mount the body with the cage, full interior cage with a d90 style exo to protect the roof/ windshield, keep leafs in the rear, either coils or air shocks in the front.

Do XJ steering boxes help with turning radius? I have a waggy pitman arm on my box right now and it still doesn't turn enough, i have a scout arm i'm thinking I might try.

What's a long box reg cab wheel base?

look at an Astro van steering box. the pitman faces forward, so if the front axle is moved foward quite a bit, it will help you steering angles and I think the radius.

my S10 has been cut and tubed up front, full hydro, 42s and the full body...

Brian

a d90 style exo

One like this?













:D

look at an Astro van steering box. the pitman faces forward, so if the front axle is moved foward quite a bit, it will help you steering angles and I think the radius.

my S10 has been cut and tubed up front, full hydro, 42s and the full body...

Brian

forgot this one on my list, something i might swith over to