I'm installing some new ball joints into my Dana 30 front axle... (off of a 86 CJ7). Has anyone had problems getting the split rings out of the yoke? One side is completely rusted and I'm going to first try using a hack saw and a chisel to remove it. If not, then I'll have to drill it out and re-tap it. Can anyone give me any other tips or experience on it? Ok, now once I get them off and install new ball joints, what is the proper way to set the split ring? My factory manual mentions a torque setting and another instruction just mentions installing it without any mention to torque. Should I just install it with the torque value? I havent seen much information on split rings...

Thanx for the help.

-Josh

Qtec and others sell spanning wrenches for that - not sure if it'd help, but soak it in PBlaster and go nuts. Installation instructions for the new one should be in with the new ball joints, no?

Bryan

Originally posted by Oxjockey
Qtec and others sell spanning wrenches for that - not sure if it'd help, but soak it in PBlaster and go nuts. Installation instructions for the new one should be in with the new ball joints, no?

Bryan

Oh yeah, I have the spanning wrench, but the damn thing won't even budge after using PB blaster... took a ziplock bag and sprayed a ton in it. Then, I taped it to the yoke for it to soak... Nada! I've actually tweaked the spanner wrench 4 prongs cause I put too much force on it... Bought some new ball joints but I didn't get an installation instructions.


-Josh

Originally posted by junger


Oh yeah, I have the spanning wrench, but the damn thing won't even budge after using PB blaster... took a ziplock bag and sprayed a ton in it. Then, I taped it to the yoke for it to soak... Nada! I've actually tweaked the spanner wrench 4 prongs cause I put too much force on it... Bought some new ball joints but I didn't get an installation instructions.


-Josh

Try HEAT on the yoke...

Install the split ring in the uppoer yoke, with about 2 threads left out. Torque the bottom to 90lbs. Torque the split ring to 50 lbs. Then the castle nut to 100lbs. Continue to tighten just until you can get the cotter pin in place...

Originally posted by rkcrawl


Try HEAT on the yoke...

Install the split ring in the uppoer yoke, with about 2 threads left out. Torque the bottom to 90lbs. Torque the split ring to 50 lbs. Then the castle nut to 100lbs. Continue to tighten just until you can get the cotter pin in place...

Thanks.

Tried heat on the yoke already... although I only have propane gas... maybe if I get some acetylene gas. What do you think?

-Josh

Originally posted by junger
Tried heat on the yoke already... although I only have propane gas... maybe if I get some acetylene gas. What do you think?

-Josh

More heat would be good. A propane torch is for DIY plumbers. Might as well use a Bic lighter. :flipoff2:

Rusty ones can be a bitch. Does it protrude from the bottom a little? If so here's what I do. Use a sharp and small/shortish chisel and start tapping it in (keep using PB too). Don't try to spin it just try to push the lower threads towards the center of the hole, near the split. As if collapsing it. This will almost always free it up. After whacking it try to spin it with the 4 prong dealie.