I am sure many people asked about that but may concern is different. I have already coupled AX-15 & Dana300, it is ok. But I don't know what to do with clutch! Shall I go for Hydraulic clutch or try to keep the clutch of T-150.... What is the advantage of hydraulic.. The jeep is used 50% offroad, 50% highway.
I have a bellhousing left from SR-4 and other 2 from T14 and T150.. but I do not think any of those will work AX-15 without adapter...

thx

Hydraulic clutch linkage will not get bound up in a full flex situation.
Typically hydraulic has a much smoother operation.
easier to route hydraulic lines around exhaust.
I converted mine from mechanical linkage to hydraulic and enjoyed it until I went automatic.

I agree.
Some people dont like hydro because they are under the impression they are impossible to fix on the trail if a failure occurs.....and they couldnt be more wrong. Sure, master and slave cylinders eventually fail and need replaced/rebuilt, but that's almost as easy as changeing sparkplugs. My clutch failed once due to a bracket comeing loose and wearing a hole in the hardline. Thats about as severe as it can get.....requires removeing and repairing or replaceing the line. It took 20 minutes to remove the line, cut it, bend it and reflare it.
On the trail I carry a MC rebuild kit, spare slave, a few feet of 1/4" hardline, flare tool, tubeing bender, cutter, and a few flare nuts and couplers. The whole thing takes up little space and doubles as a brake repair kit.

I understood that it is better to go for hydraulics..
I think it will cost around another 100bucks..
Thanks for the replies.

I have a bellhousing left from SR-4 and other 2 from T14 and T150.. but I do not think any of those will work AX-15 without adapter...

Why not use the factory YJ setup for clutch and bellhousing? My 4.2L YJ came with an aX-15, don't bother trying to build something custom when there are readily available parts to do it for you already.

Does anybody know how to identify the year of Ax-15? I need to get a bellhousing but which year (with internal or external slave cyc)? I have checked through internet, there should be a plate under it, that mentions the year but I could not find it.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2037972530087379764uFOitD
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2740787370087379764bjFNoY

In addition to that my friend just bolt-in the Dana300 without adapter. When I came to the garage, I was shocked because, front output yoke was ok! There is only 3' lift on the cj7, clocking seems also ok. Did anybody tried without adapter? or am I doing something stupid? without adapter the tranny will be shorter with better rear shaft angle..
thx

The pictures of the AX15 that you have a link to show a transmission that's fairly new & it has the sleeve over the input shaft indicating that you'll be using an external slave - I would think that transmission is from a recent TJ because the casting that's over the input shaft (front bearing retainer) is different from any I'm familiar with from a YJ.

An internal-slave bell housing has a hole close to the Crank Position Sensor for the hydraulic line & bleed line, whereas the external slave bell housing has the hole lower, with a flat area and two studs to hold the external slave cylinder (there are a few other minor differences, but you can't use the external slave bell housing for an external cylinder).

The '91 - '93 units had the internal slave and therefore had a different front bearing retainer - it was aluminum, it didn't have the collar on it for the release/throw-out bearing to ride on, and had a small steel post on it for the internal slave to clip onto.

Generally, the dimensions and bolt patterns remained through the years - I do know that the bellhousing-to-engine bolt pattern is the same from at least 2005 to 1991 (and earlier), but whether the bellhousing-to-AX15 is the same, I can't say (I'd say it probably is). The length would most likely be the same as well as the interface to the transfer case, so the D300, unmodified, would need an adapter to fit snug against the transmission. I've seen some D300's that have had the "nose" (the piece that goes inside the transmission) and the back end of the output shaft cut back to allow a snug fit but I can't offer you any details on that type of modification - I used an adapter and wasn't interested in the details of the "hack job".

If you have the pictured transmission and a D300, your best bet would be to slide the two together and see how closely they fit, but you'll probably find that you need a 3/4" spacer & if you leave the D300 as a passenger drop, you can get a standard clocking ring, but if you want to use it in the flipped position, you really should get a ring that's made for that position so that you don't have to butcher a couple of holes on the tranny to try to make it fit - elongating the holes really weakens the transmission mounting.