:barf: it kind of sucks, but seems to be going ok untill i found that i no longer have a torque wrench in my garage.

so my question is....
a. how many of you guys have had to replace the valley pan on a 4.0?

2. if so have you ever had a vacuum leak from the valley pan, say the left rear? (i had coolant leak out and vacuum leak in) local rover shop found it, and upon taking it all apart he was right. pretty corroded back there.

also wik. paul told me i am an idiot for buying a dII, but it was for the wife, and other than the 3 amigos on the dash lights (abs mod shuttle valve dying slow death) and this set of fun, i like it.

ultimately i am afraid that after i fix this leak the fault codes will show back up that told me of this problem in the first place. codes were 1171 and 1174. initial diagnosis was afm dead. then test book said that a massive vac leak was the culprit and visual inspection confirmed i had one.

flame on.......:flipoff2:

I did a top end rebuild this fall, not that bad. It took longer because I was flying blind, but it is holding up at this point. Seal the small gaps on the valley gasket, near where the heads meet the gasket.

I went through about a box of ziplock bags labeling everything, but glad I did.

I too was an idiot and bought a DII for the wife even though she drives my 95 RRC every day still. For the most part I like it when almost every thing is working right, especially with the OME suspension.

Right after buying it I noticed the head gaskets were leaking and after doing some research I discovered that head gaskets were almost as common as an oil change on these vehicles. The job went well aside form the cramped engine compartment, it was all pretty straight forward V8 stuff if you have done one before. So to answer your questions:

a. Yes, replaced the one in the DII and the RRC and only the one in the RRC was leaking coolant from the valley gasket.

2. No vacuum leaks, only coolant.

Now after a few thousand miles on the new head gaskets they leak again. I never had a machine shop check them to be sure they were flat so that might be the cause. Or they are like most other aluminum engines that leak shit out of everywhere. Instead of new gaskets I put a couple of sealing tablets in the cooling system that are for a Northstar Cady motor, hopefully those help.

well maybe you guys can riddle me this....

got it all back together, it runs great. restet the codes with my harbor frieght scanner.

problem is the cat says "not ready"

the o2 sensor says "not ready"

the evap says "not ready"

these are the most important readings that the emissions idiots want to read....:mad3:

so how do i get the ecu to be "ready"? or do i have to go back to the shop and pay another hundo for a quick test book?:mad3:

so how do i get the ecu to be "ready"?

You have to drive it until the status ticks over to Ready. This will have to be done every time you clear the fault memory on any OBD-II PCM.

The Readiness standards exist so that a car with an emissions problem couldn't have the fault codes cleared and MIL turned off, 5 minutes later pass inspection/emissions, and 5 minutes after that be down the road burning gas with a new sticker and the MIL back on. With a "Not Ready" status, the PCM is saying "it's true, I don't have any faults right now, but in all fairness, I haven't really been given the chance to check for them!"

--Matt

found that out today as well. thanks. i don't want to be a polluter and "just beat the system" so now i have all but the cat sensor back online. 62 miles so far since the rebuild and it is running great with no codes. going to need a lot of maintenance in the next few weeks but i think it will be a decent car once i am done.:cool2:

Gotta say being a former LR tech, I would take a DII over a DI any day. I was working at rover during the transition, and the DII is by far a much better rover than the DI ever was. If only the DI didnt have so many damn electrical problems.

The DII is my daily, and it really is a nice car for getting around. I canot see myself wheeling it much, but one never knows...

i love driving it. i makes me want to be on the road. but i would be scared to try to do anything to it to make it more of a wheeler and mess up the factory stuff. i seems tempermental and not forgiving. it makes my dI look like a rattle trap.:flipoff2:

Look up the various drive cycles in your FSM and it will give you the magic driving lesson to satisfy the ECU.

I cannot begin to fathom why an individual would go to the trouble to replace head gaskets and NOT have the heads machined. For stealerships to do so is criminal.

PT

heads were fine. it was just the valley pan gasket, you know between the block and the lower intake plenum. also replaced all of the hoses, drive belt, plug wires and the upper plenum gasket. coolant flush etc.:shaking:

because if you machined the heads on a rover everytime you had to change the head gaskets, you would have machined the head to non existance by 100Kmiles. Seriously PT, your way to anal. Machining the heads should only be done if their is an issue. Aluminum heads are very forgiving, especially on a light V8 like a rover. Personally Id say your screwing your cust. by making them pay for the machine work. I dont know why you think that if you remove the heads, you need to machine them every time, thats just an absolute joke and your wasting your time 90% of the time.

passed emissions today. cat never came back to "ready":confused: so who cares i guess.

but to add to the running talley for "buyer beware" used dII.

the ac no worky. dont know if all freon is leaked or comp is gone.

also i cant shift into 4lo. messed up interlock?

oh well, more fun and more money.:shaking:

My Dad just bought two DII's both around 03'. They are both flawless so far minus wiper blades. And His Girlfriends 01' has been flawless as well.

because if you machined the heads on a rover everytime you had to change the head gaskets, you would have machined the head to non existance by 100Kmiles. Seriously PT, your way to anal. Machining the heads should only be done if their is an issue. Aluminum heads are very forgiving, especially on a light V8 like a rover. Personally Id say your screwing your cust. by making them pay for the machine work. I dont know why you think that if you remove the heads, you need to machine them every time, thats just an absolute joke and your wasting your time 90% of the time.

C'mawn KC! You're not gonna start being the Kyle Van Tassell of Pirate are you?

How many times is a person gonna do the heads on a Rover? If they are done anywhere near correctly and not overheated again, once in the lifetime of a Rover engine is good.

As for screwing my customers, they are getting the whole job done for less than the stealers charge for the gasket replacement. fWIW, I've seen many comebacks for head jobs when the heads weren't machined.

I saw Zero comebacks on heads machined or not. I think your Rover dealerships in that neck of the woods are a bit shadier than the one I worked for. I personally hate the New mexcio dealerships, and would not trust them to change my tire, but thats how it goes here in New mexico. I will not machine a head unless it requires it, machineing just because its off the truck is like changing a clutch just because you split the tranny and motor even though its a new clutch. I always reseat the valves when I take the head off, but I do that myself. Plus your talking like head gaskets blow on average from overheating. This is not the case. Most rover head gaskets fail due to poor design or assembly. If I had a motor that had overheated, I would have the heads checked thoroughly, but I would not machine unless I found a problem. Odds are I would not find any issues.

apparently the shop guy said my heads looked good. so there:flipoff2:

and now for the cross threaded plug in my 95.........

I must be living right as to date, I have only replaced head gaskets due to overheating.

I must be living right as to date, I have only replaced head gaskets due to overheating.