I've been looking into what I want to do to my stock samurai. I know WHAT I want, but need to find out what brand/supplier is best for me. I've decided on the following:

Rocky Road Outfitters 5" (maybe 6") SPOA with OTT Steering and DT Shocks. (Bolt On. Can't weld.)
Interco/Super Swamper LTB or TSL, undecided on size.
6.5:1 Transfer Case gear set, probably from Rock 4x Fabrication.
Some tough, but cheap 15x8 Steel Wheels. (2" Backspacing?)

Those are the parts I'd like to pretty much get all at the same time, can't really do any without the rest anyways.

I need advice mainly on the tire size and model. I was going to get 31/11.5/15 but have seen that RRO 5" SPOA kit allows you to fit 33s fine. The only problem being, the 33" LTBs are 13.5 inches wide, seems awefully wide to me. Can an otherwise stock samurai (axles, steering, etc) handle 33/13.5/15 tires? I could go with regular TSLs or maybe even something completely different. I don't care about road noise, don't really care much about ride quality either. I do intend to drive it on the road, but I'm buiding it for hunting and playing offroad primarily. Should I just stick with the 5" kit and go with another tire like 33/105./15 TSL Radial or TSL SX in 32/11.5/15? I know I want something quite aggressive, not something like a BFG MT or Goodyear MTR. Someone help, money is burning a hole in my pocket!

Also, any info on ZOR bumpers? I REALLY like the rear, with the tire carrier. I like the fact that it holds a Hi-Lift and a Jerry Can as well as the tire, but it says it's for soft-top Samurais only, does that mean convertable or SOFT-TOP? Can I use it with a fiberglass hard top? Anyone have any experience with them?

we are running 33/12.5/15 truxs mt on the 6.5 rro lift with 15x8 rims on 3" backspacing.the only promblem that we have is hitting the springs on full lock.the tires running great on and off road.i have the same tires on both of my toyotas but in 35" form and wouldnt buy any other tire except boggers but there wear out to fast on the pavement.my dd toy has 12,000 miles on that tire and i still have half tread left.on my trail toy ive got,im not sure how many miles,but alot of hard abuse and the first step down on tread is still there.both sets are about 3 years old on the toys and the set on the sami is 1 year old. sorry,just my two cents.

if your planning to install this before 2008 then you better get a hold of rockyroad today. good products, it just takes them a while to get stuff out most of the time

weld on really is the way to go....but i had a buddy that had that exact same lift, and he never had a problem with it so, what ever bolt on your heart out.

an for tires, the TSL is a better tire..but you really cant go wrong with the LTB good tire with a good price

Get the LTB 33-13.50... Perfect hight/width for a tire, plus they have monster lugs. For the price of LTB's over TSL's, you can even get some sheel spacers for $200!

But you really need diff gears before t-case gears. Especially with those big tires.

Senario:
T-case is bought first: The weakest points are now; the driveline, Driveline U-joints, Ring and pinion, locker, axles, hubs, wheels.

Ring and pinion first: The weakest point is now only the lockers, axles, hubs, and wheels... (some will break before others, but all are possible breaks.)

Oh, and just lock the rear if you're worried about the front axles... You can get away with a lot when your front is unlocked... we only busted one birfield unlocked... But for steering theose big tires... you will need power steering if you lock the front.

Just learn to drive a samurai and you wont break much anything.

but i had a buddy that had that exact same lift, and he never had a problem with it so.

I thought you had to weld the perches on...

I thought you had to weld the perches on...

naw the bolt on perches use the stock perch to keep the top one (bolted) on not the way do it, but it works

^^^ Scary!!

^^^ Scary!!

Agree.....

weld them!!

weld them!!

X2!!!

X2!!!

X3 the only way to go....but dont use crappy trailer perches

x4
I just swappd axles, and when I took the bolt on kit off, I noticed my stock shacles had broke on both sides due to the leverage coming from the top. Plus they had almost rubbed a groove all the way through the axle tube.

Buy a stick or 2 of 7011 1/16" rod and put 2 batterys on jumper cables... Put the rod on the negative site and the positive on the axle housing. Clean your perch set position and put a bead (ANY BEAD) on the "Bolt on" set, but don't sit in one spot welding too long, cuz the housing is VERY thin.

Any kind of weld is better than a bolted on perch.

If you were close to me, I would weld it on for you for $5... I will be certified when I turn 18...

your gonna charge the guy 5 bucks to weld his perches on? i would do it for free, just so you aren't involved in some sort of accident when your bolt ons fail.

lol! Fine... A soda would be in order...

I've never had a broken weld... Booger welds were so 4 years ago... lol.

No joke on the certification... My boss is sending me to some welding school in the midwest.

And I'm guessing with the "Bolt-on", you don't need any more u-bolts?? It's just a stock plate with nuts welded on and you put the perch on and run a bolt through the top mount, down the springs, down the perch, down the axle housing, and into the nut meeting it on the other side of the housing?? That sounds good, not F-ups on getting the angle right!

where at in the midwest u gonna be bass man?

I'm leaning towards the Low Range Offroad SPOA/YJ kit now. I'll find someone to help me with the welding. I want to run ZOR front and rear bumpers and will need the better springs to help with the weight of the rear with the tire carrier and accessories.

So far I'm pretty sure on the following:

31" LTBs
15x8 plain jane black steel wheels. 2" Backspacing.
6.5:1 T-Case gearing.

Does anyone here have any experience with the SPOA/YJ kit from Low Range Offroad? Do you think it's needed or just a regular SPOA? I don't want to get too tall, but want the strength to carry the load of the bumpers with accessories.

Sweet idea^^

I'll be in Oklahoma.

If I drive down there, I wouldn't know what car to take... a 4 wheeler or my SPL van... I love being the loudest with the least amount of money :D

the YJ kit sold by Low-Range is from Sky-Manufacturing

Totally check out Sky-Manufacturing. Look at their Stage 1 & Stage 2 SPOA kits. Also check out Breeze Manufacturing for their kits.

Weld on those perches... its the only way to go!

the YJ kit sold by Low-Range is from Sky-Manufacturing

this is true. I know a few people, (including myself) with this kit.

DONT BUY RRO CRAP. I bought there jp eater kit an had to reengineer half of it not to mention nothing was deburred the holes were not round (flame cut) had to be opened up for bolts to fit. For the $$$$$$ I was defenetly dissapointed. I dont know how they stay in bussiness. Fawken Hacks!!!!!!

Good luck with your build.