lets say you needed to build yourself a new panhard. Either the stock wont fit around the sewer cap or your swapped the front axle.

You have a piece of 1.5"x.375" walled DOM for the main bar.
You want to stick with the stock type (either OEM rubber or AM poly) bushings.

What wall thickness DOM do you think you need for the end pieces that will hold the bushing?
I have some .120 walled that fits the bushing perfectly, but it just seems very thin. Then again I am comparing that to the DOM for the bar itself.
I can chuck up some of the 1.5x.375 and bore out the inside, if I remember correctly the end result will be around .2" wall.

The bar is super thick to resist bending, plan on using a 12t press and heat to put the bend needed into it. The forces acting on the part around the bushing are different, is 1/8" enough wall?

If you had access to some 1" grade 8 thread would you consider tapping one end of the 1.5x.375 bar to make it adjustable?

Thanks.

I think most are .120 wall DOM. It should be plenty strong to hold the bushings. Most of my links are the same with .25 wall for the actual link.

JKS has some very swank adjustable panhard bars...unfortunately they are all for J**ps. Take a look at their site and see if they don't have something that might work.

When I was shooting all of their product, a lot of the suspension bits looked like with a little modding, they would work very well on LR's.

FWIW, JKS's site might actually have some specs of the parts they make. Might give you an idea of where to start?

Just thinking out loud...

Thanks.

What is JKS?

Thanks.

What is JKS?

Sorry, JKS, a client of mine, makes all of THIS STUFF. (http://www.jksmfg.com/)

:flipoff2:

Technically Keith (Rovertracks) makes an adjustable Panhard rod as well. I just figured you wanted to make your own.

I'll make you one with bushes at both ends and one side adjustable if Keith does not want to. I know what you are up against.

JP

I'll make you one with bushes at both ends and one side adjustable if Keith does not want to. I know what you are up against.

JP

Thanks.

I am using a Scout PS box.
So the frame mount is non-stock. The mount is going to combine a fame stiffener for the box mount as well as the upper panhard mount.
The axle mount is also getting reworked.

So unless they have access to my garage I doubt anyone else will be able to make the rod :D

I have an assortment of DOM was just curious what others would do. And if 1" thread is strong enough for this application.

The JKS rod is 1.25x.156 DOM so it looks like they are using a 1" thread.

A 3/4 rod end is plenty strong ... You can get a variety of inserts for different size tubing and rod end plus misalignment washers at Spidertrax..
I would use at least .1875" wall no matter what the diameter..

I would take a good look at how a Disco II mounts their panhard and mimick it with your Scout box.

JP

Thanks.

I am using a Scout PS box.
So the frame mount is non-stock. The mount is going to combine a fame stiffener for the box mount as well as the upper panhard mount.
The axle mount is also getting reworked.

So unless they have access to my garage I doubt anyone else will be able to make the rod :D

I have an assortment of DOM was just curious what others would do. And if 1" thread is strong enough for this application.

The JKS rod is 1.25x.156 DOM so it looks like they are using a 1" thread.

I would take a good look at how a Disco II mounts their panhard and mimick it with your Scout box.

JP

X2

okiedokie. There has to be at least one of those down in the garage I can crawl under on the way home tonight.

For my mockup I have the frame end of the rod located right below the output shaft of the PS box.

Plating both sides of the frame. So it works to reinforce the frame. Will run DOM inserts through the frame for the 3 bolts.

Cheesy mspaint design

Cheesy mspaint design

That is exactly what Cooper did to fab up the bracket on the Serious One (welded onto the frame), and the CrewCab (bolted on).

Here's some pics...

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/crewcab/saginawboxpanhardrod.jpg

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/randompics/panhard-rod-bracket.jpg

That is exactly what Cooper did to fab up the bracket on the Serious One (welded onto the frame), and the CrewCab (bolted on).

Here's some pics...

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/crewcab/saginawboxpanhardrod.jpg

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/randompics/panhard-rod-bracket.jpg

Wow! That thing has no chance of breaking.

Great looking fab there. A lot of detail. If I were you I would just buy two 3/4in Heims and bungs and weld them up. Very simple and adjustable. It will fit quite will in your bracket (assuming it is same as stock) with misalignment bushings.

Thanks Mike. That is sort of what I was trying to show with my paint skillz.

Everyone I have talked to have recommened not to use heims in a DD.

And your paint skills are indeed awesome...

Man something has to start!!!

Thanks Mike. That is sort of what I was trying to show with my paint skillz.

Everyone I have talked to have recommened not to use heims in a DD.

I'm not sure why anyone would say that. There is no reason why a heim can not be used on the street. :confused:

I'm not sure why anyone would say that. There is no reason why a heim can not be used on the street. :confused:


I think after seeing a bunch of different heims (from doing the photography of them only TTYTT...), that I have an idea why they wouldn't be good for daily driving. My idea is based soley on what I've seen of them, and knowing how well the rubber bushings work. IMO the harder the material connecting suspension parts, the quicker they wear out. At least that's what I think based on my experience with poly and rubber.

I think I've heard the same thing about not using heims on the street, but can't give any evidence where I read it.

I've got 8 heims on my DD four have been there for over three years, two of them for 2 years, it's not really be a problem if you keep them sorta clean.. and the car gets driven every day rain or shine, dust, sand, salt.. They seem to be holding up fine at the panhard and the steering. The two at the rear links seem to loosening up but they seemed loose when I put them on... Those are greasable, I grease them with every thing else at the oil change.

Good data Keith.

The info I got is that they are very stiff on the road. Transmit a lot of raod noise and vibration.

This is from the other forums, not so much here in Rover land.

Yeah I do see the ironey, a Series guy worried about a rough ride. :flipoff2:

Even though I have custom rod and mounts, I am planning on the stock bushing. So what Buckon suggests is still doable.
I should also mention that cost is an issue. I have the bushings and the DOM.

Matt Browne just finished a PS conversion on my hybrid. He used Rover parts, a 90 column and Disco box. The pic is not great but it shows the brace he made from the PS box to the pan hard rod bracket. He sleeved the frame for the box bolts of course.

http://i5.pbase.com/o6/35/542535/1/73228108.XHHhzq5C.DSCF0013.JPG

"Nooobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!"

And our weapons are?


Matt does nice work..

The pic is not great but it shows the brace he made from the PS box to the pan hard rod bracket. He sleeved the frame for the box bolts of course.

http://i5.pbase.com/o6/35/542535/1/73228108.XHHhzq5C.DSCF0013.JPG

Does anyone else see an image????

I used to see an image.... It's gone now..

I don't know whay it does that? If you right click the red X and select show picture you will see it.