do to engen swap am foarce to move the rad to the bed, what is the best way to plum this set up, and be able to drive it on the street high way and in town?

Skeeter

When I put a V8 in my Ranger I used 1.25" aluminum tube and rubber hose. I used a Flex-a-lite dual fan and made a scoop on the floor of the bed to draw air in. The water pump was stock and once I got all the coolant in the system it worked fine.

If I had to do it again I would just put the radiator up front for simplicity.

Why do you have to put it in the bed?

I have move the fire wall back 2 inchs and will need prbley two more. trying to keep all my defroster ducts. im putin and sbc in a 720 4x4. I wont to be able to drive it on the road with no prblems so putting it in front of the supprt would make it out there on its on with no prtection. i hated the idea at first but decided in doing this i could use and even bigger rad.

Skeeter

I would consider upgrading to a performance water pump (i'd consider an electric one), as i've seen a good number of trucks with rear mount (mud bogs) rads have issues becuase the stock water pump couldn't deal extra load and cativated (or however you speel that word), remember that there is a lot of extra fluid when you go to a rear mount rad.

I mounted the stock radiator in the back of my '89 bronco II. A couple of things I learned are:

Use tubing that is at least the inside diameter of the radiator hoses.

Since the system now holds much more coolant, you will need a larger overflow to keep it from puking coolant when it warms up, and then sucking all of the coolant, plus some air, back into the radiator when it cools.

Mount the temperature sensor for your cooling fan as close to the motor as possible, not one that slips in between the radiator fins. I used a temp sensor I found on summit for $20 that threads into a nut I welded to my coolant tube as close to the motor as I could. It turns on a 200, off at 170, and the fan only runs on occasion, unless I start to skinny pedal it.

The stock water pump worked fine for my application, but some may need a high flow pump. I try to avoid electric pumps since many of them are designed for quarter mile cars and actually flow less than a mechanical pump.

ran that in our desert truck for years you need to have a bleeder on the thermostat housing or you will get air pocket

ran that in our desert truck for years you need to have a bleeder on the thermostat housing or you will get air pocket

I eventually added a second radiator cap (there was one on the radiator in the rear) in the upper radiator hose that ended up being the highest point in the cooling system. After that it was a breeze to fill the cooling system.

could i get some pics of some of you guys that have done this of how it is mounted in the back of your trucks, send to nskeeter99@suddelink.net?

Skeeter

ttt always was curious about this

How aobut running linse for the trans. should i just run a cooler to the frount with an efan are can i attach it to the rad in the bad since there will already be efans back there, are will the tranny not puss the fluid that hight?

How aobut running linse for the trans. should i just run a cooler to the frount with an efan are can i attach it to the rad in the bad since there will already be efans back there, are will the tranny not puss the fluid that hight?

Put the trans cooler in the front. You could mount it in the rear and the trans would push it just fine, but you'll be adding a lot of tube and hose. Keep it simple.

What kind of swap are you doing that even after moving the firewall back you cant squeeze in a radiator?

Im putting a 305 in an 81 datsun. which even if i could have doen it would have made anther prblem. after i decided to put the rad in tha back i move the engen fowrd to accomdat an hei dizz. after moveing it foward only gave me 5.5 inches for the drive saft from the tranny to the tcas so if i had made it fit wold ve moving that back

Not desert racing I know but this might help

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-2/944469/Petalbackfuelandhydro.JPG
We run our radiator in the back to keep it out of trouble



http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-2/944469/cabwithnav.JPG
the scoop runs through the cab



http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-2/944469/PetalMOTRHS.jpg
the intake is angled to catch the airflow from the windshield



We've found with this design anything above walking pace and the car wont need the fan, hope thats of use to ya?