Anyone else having problems with shearing the flange bolts on the rear axles? I've used blue, red and green loctite, yet the bolts still work loose, and I think that is what causes them to shear off. Saturday, they must have worked loose between my house and the trail, shearded the bolts, and the rear axle fell out; I had to go find it.

Has anyone replaced the bolts with studs and used a cone washer set-up? Did it help?

I've never replaced the bolts with studs, however, I have found them to stretch occasionally and lose tension if they are overtightened or possibly reused too many times. The stretch can be visible as the threads will neck down & the pitch will spread out at the point that the threaded part of the bolt meets the shoulder. I would get new, 10.9 grade bolts. The factory bolts have a fairly long shoulder that recesses into the hub to avoid having the threaded portion of the bolt at the hub/axle flange joint.

I replaced my twelve year old drive flange bolts just before the New Years trip to Moab.

Had a hell of a time finding appropriate sized bolts locally (Des Moines) and finally bought a bag of 12.9 graded black oxide socket head cap screws from the local Fastenal place .... bag of 100 was cheaper than twenty special ordered from TruValue, so I've got a few extra now :)

Installed with the blue locktite that looks like chapstick (!?) and they're still tight.

I'd drill and safety wire the (new!) bolts before messing with studs, personally.

I think I need to safty wire my axles in.....

The bolts I had were new, as the last ones broke, too - all 10 at the same time. I know another guy here in town who is useing a 12.9 bolt with the hex head/allen bit fitting. I think he said the sholder fits the RT rear axles a little tigher, and the sholder it a tad longer. I think he also said the threar is a bit longer, too. He did this because he too was having the same problem. I'm just not 100% sold that this would be a fix.....maybe it is.

Just get a D60 you fucking pussy :flipoff2:

Rear D-60 are for pussy's. 14-Bolt is where the love is at.

The bolts I had were new, as the last ones broke, too - all 10 at the same time.

Yikes! What are you guys doing ... flying thru the air or something???

I must drive like a pansie !?!?

Yikes! What are you guys doing ... flying thru the air or something???

I must drive like a pansie !?!?

They broke on the street...or, basically a street.

Rob Dassler has hit the bolt on the head, if you fit a replacement bolt with a shorter shank than the original the shear force will be applied to the thread not the shank leading to failure, the shank needs to go into the hub by at least 10mm.
Spring washers fail as they split, use a plain or star washer and loctite.
Regards
in-cog-nito

M10x45 SHCS 12.9 Once you remove the 10.9's that are stock they're no good anymore. I can't tell you how many i've broken taking them out....even for the first time.

Rob Dassler has hit the bolt on the head, if you fit a replacement bolt with a shorter shank than the original the shear force will be applied to the thread not the shank leading to failure, the shank needs to go into the hub by at least 10mm.

Right, and as Steve says, the 12.9 M10x1.5x45 SHCS's that I got from Fastenal have the same thread / smooth shank dimensions as the o.e. bolts ... at least I seem to recall that the pitch number is 1.5 :confused:

edit ... I should say that the smooth shank of the replacement bolts should/does pass the drive flange/hub mating surface plane. I've got GBR rear axles and I'm not absolutely certain that the thickness is the same as the o.e. drive flange/axle cap doodad.

I like to cut up a piece of all thread and double nut the new studs in place. But I am Pendy.

:p

grade 2 of course

I replaced my flange bolt today. For anyone interested, this is what I did.

Before:
http://www.virginia4x4.org/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/CV_s%20045.jpg

The bolts are a 12.9. A little longer than stock and a differnet sholder.
http://www.virginia4x4.org/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/CV_s%20042.jpg

After:
http://www.virginia4x4.org/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/CV_s%20044.jpg

I had the same problem. Broke at least one bolt a trip. I talked to Keith at Rover Tracks and he told me to bore out the hole and retap it to 7/16. I did that and have not broken a bolt since. I would recommend that, because if you break the stock ones, slightly longer shoulders are going to make little difference.

I had the same problem. Broke at least one bolt a trip. I talked to Keith at Rover Tracks and he told me to bore out the hole and retap it to 7/16. I did that and have not broken a bolt since. I would recommend that, because if you break the stock ones, slightly longer shoulders are going to make little difference.
x2

Replaced the stockers with 7/16 FT SHCS, an no problems since. You can also tighten the piss out of these without fear of them snapping in the hub.

Do GBR axles have the same problem?

The Maxi Drive Flanges I had on one of my trucks did the same thing.. That's when I decided to take the bolts out to 7/16"-20. others have done 10 bolts in the 10mm size (looks very cool) and it works well toyota guys like extra dowels to keep them in place... I've had it happen in the front too.. On my other truck it never happend at all regardless of what flanges where in place, including the Maxi's and RT's and stock. It's got to do with the loading.. when you put big loads on them frequently they loosen. curiosly I have never seen the 3/8" fine thread screws on RRC's loosen. why they went to 5 screws on the coilers is beyond me..

On a side note I have 7/16-20 all the way around at this point, the rears are SHCS the front HHCS. If you believe what machine builders tell you the SHCS will have more holding power at the head, in this case neither have loosened after about 6K miles.

On Hummer H1 haftshafts, they use some sort of 2 piece locking washer. Anyone know what these are called?

My only resewrvation over using SHCS is fear of not having an allen wrench on the trail. I always have a crescent wrench.

Has anyone safety-wired them? Result?

My only resewrvation over using SHCS is fear of not having an allen wrench on the trail. I always have a crescent wrench.

Has anyone safety-wired them? Result?

OMG!! Say it isn't so!!! You don't use a Crescent wrench to tighten flange bolts.. Please tell me you mis-typed!!

OMG!! Say it isn't so!!! You don't use a Crescent wrench to tighten flange bolts.. Please tell me you mis-typed!!

If I'm out on the trail and I have to get out, I'll use almost anything.

I will have a crescent wrench, I almost certainly will not have a set of allens.

It's better than a chisel for a hub nut!

If it's a metric Crescent wrench it should be fine as it is a 10mm bolt.. The SAE wrenches can strip the heads when applying the proper torque of three grunts..

The SAE wrenches can strip the heads when applying the proper torque of three grunts..

Is that three grunts with or without the fencepost torque multiplier?

I prefer using a large rock to bang on the with wrench, three times... I think if you use the torque multiplier (AKA fencepost) you may need to reduce the torque setting to one grunt.

The SAE wrenches can strip the heads when applying the proper torque of three grunts..

Bbbbut, Pendy taught me to use three bumps to the elbow!

(Oops, I hope that wasn't a trade secret he taught me:flipoff2: I'll proobably get another nasty phone call about my lack of professionalism )

Ohhhh Nooooo
You're in Biiiiiig trouble now!!!!!

Remember that only works with all thread and double nuts!!!!

On Hummer H1 haftshafts, they use some sort of 2 piece locking washer. Anyone know what these are called?

This is what I was refering to. http://www.sscycle.de/products/Nordlock/NordL_E.htm

Sizes avaliable http://www.stanleyind.com/product/washer/nordlock/nordm.htm

For sale at McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=psearch&FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_104=4054&FT_3696=164199&FT_3770=165588&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_137=31621&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;3696=164199;3770=165588;137=31621&sesnextrep=701839587249962&ScreenWidth=1024&McMMainWidth=812)

Gotta be a killer product! I drive by the NordLock factory everytime I go to our skiing place. I't a modern factory absolutely in the middle of nowhere in the inland of Northern Sweden.

Maybe I should stop by and get a bunch next time! Only problem is it's usually past midnight when I get there.

Anyone actually used them?

This is what I was refering to. http://www.sscycle.de/products/Nordlock/NordL_E.htm

Sizes avaliable http://www.stanleyind.com/product/washer/nordlock/nordm.htm

For sale at McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=psearch&FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_104=4054&FT_3696=164199&FT_3770=165588&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_137=31621&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;3696=164199;3770=165588;137=31621&sesnextrep=701839587249962&ScreenWidth=1024&McMMainWidth=812)

If stock bolts are breaking repeatedly I always suspect a tweaked axle housing. The loose spline fit of the separately flanged axles on series and Defender models are more tolerant of slightly bent axle housings than the one piece integrated flange axles of Rangies and Disco's, or the more precise tighter fitting splines of Maxi Drive axles and flanges. I have noticed in recent years that many heavy duty big rigs (Macks etc) have gone over to proper fully floating axles with separate drive flanges. I wonder if that is in an effort to extend axle longevity?
Bill.

If it's a metric Crescent wrench it should be fine as it is a 10mm bolt.. The SAE wrenches can strip the heads when applying the proper torque of three grunts..

Actually if you have the SAE wrench and a Euro coin you can place the coin between the jaws and the bolt head and get a tight fit. You can also do the same thing with a metric wrench and a quarter to tighten SAE bolts.

i used stainless nord-lock washers on a set of humvee rims when i switched to stainless nuts from the original lock nuts. they work great. they are pretty expensive though. i think i paid almost 1.00 a piece for stainless half inch.

Actually if you have the SAE wrench and a Euro coin you can place the coin between the jaws and the bolt head and get a tight fit. You can also do the same thing with a metric wrench and a quarter to tighten SAE bolts.

That's brilliant!!!
I've heard this works with metric washers/SAE washers too!

My only reservation over using SHCS is fear of not having an allen wrench on the trail. I always have a crescent wrench.

Loose the crescent wrench and throw in some vise grips LOL

But do they make Metric Vise grips?

My only resewrvation over using SHCS is fear of not having an allen wrench on the trail. I always have a crescent wrench.

Has anyone safety-wired them? Result?

You know if the heads are drilled for safety wire then you could use a metric nail through the hole to tighten the bolt. If you don't have a nail you can always whittle a stick to size. You do always carry a knife right?

I am working on an adaptor to convert SAE to Metric vice grips. It is in developement now and being tested by the British School of Science and Bitter. Torsional rigidity and corrections for the coreolis effect have presented challenges in the design but I hope to bring it to the market this summer, price will be around 300 dollars and will be photographed and sold exclusively through Expedition Exchange.

I am working on an adaptor to convert SAE to Metric vice grips. It is in developement now and being tested by the British School of Science and Bitter. Torsional rigidity and corrections for the coreolis effect have presented challenges in the design but I hope to bring it to the market this summer, price will be around 300 dollars and will be photographed and sold exclusively through Expedition Exchange.

Suitable for working on expensive Firearms and knives I expect?

I think I'll have to have a set if you can work out the coreolis and I can see an accurate pic... Would it be possible to photograph the vise grip at or near the equator where the effect would be limited?
Maybe Serious One could help out with this!

Come know Aloha we all know that at least two tiny sticks are required to create the proper torque! Well wait a minute, perhaps if you whacked one stick with a herring...

Suitable for working on expensive Firearms and knives I expect?

And cookware, don't forget the cookware :laughing:

And cookware, don't forget the cookware :laughing:

I do have a non stick pan that needs it's handled tightened.
Keeps getting loose every time I use it to check the swivel pin torque.

A non stick pan for swivel pin torque testing! That's the first I've heard of that! I aways thought copper clad was the proper way!!

If these Vise grips work well enough they could be used for turning Sausages... Brat's and Italian, they're metric aren't they?

Bah!

A pox on your "non-stick", you can't do better than a properly seasoned cast iron piece.

Bah!

A pox on your "non-stick", you can't do better than a properly seasoned cast radius arm.

Fixed it for you :D

You mean like this? :laughing:

No wonder those D1 parts are advertised as CHEAP.:flipoff2:

Hey! Those aren't even for sale. Yet.

I had the same problem with shearing bolts, so i redrilled my hubs and axle flanges (moser axles) and now i have 10 bolts per side and i am using the 10.9 allen bolts. I have yet to shear anything.

Brad

Ahhh steak!
Ahhh but radius arms are forged, we mustn't forget that while using them as tools or a BBQ..

I've often wondered how well the Cranked and welded Radius arms would stand up to this type of abuse.

Maybe I should stop by and get a bunch next time! Only problem is it's usually past midnight when I get there.

Anyone actually used them?

We use them all the time at the foundry.
Lots of vibrating machinery and our machine repair guys swear by them.

I have pilfered a few during the years. What dimensions and quantities do you want?
T

Dunno how far I can stretch this offer, but 20 x M10 for the flange bolts would be sweet. That is a know problem looking for a solution, and I'm currently working on the axles. Currently, as in non-finished project. :flipoff2:

At least the CV's are done now. Care to publish a pic with your mighty red star, btw?

We use them all the time at the foundry.
Lots of vibrating machinery and our machine repair guys swear by them.

I have pilfered a few during the years. What dimensions and quantities do you want?
T

I have tried Nordlock washers in this application with no great results. However I have other issues, like stripped threads and so on, so in a fresh start situation, with properly torqued bolts, it might wtill work.

Order taken, delivery time unclear atm.

T