Here's the issue, I know for cages you don't want to go down to your local steel place and pick up some schedule 40 pipe for your cage, you want to get it from somewhere that sells tube. Well, I searched and couldn't find anything about sqaure or rectangular tubing. Does the same apply? Can I go down and pick up some 2x4x3/16" tube and build a frame out of it or is there a different kind of square tube you need also? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Eric

try and run DOM tube instead of mild, the difference is DOM is seamless, mild is welded... Oh and :flipoff2: newbie ( Sorry, but if I dont do it, my keyboard will self destruct )

Thanks,
Where does one find DOM tubing? Would I call a race shop or fab shop?

Eric

Originally posted by RocKrawler
try and run DOM tube instead of mild, the difference is DOM is seamless, mild is welded... Oh and :flipoff2: newbie ( Sorry, but if I dont do it, my keyboard will self destruct )

PURE CRAP:mad3:

DOM is mild steel as well!

HREW is just fine for a frame.

Originally posted by Old Scout


PURE CRAP:mad3:

DOM is mild steel as well!

HREW is just fine for a frame.

just for that, he should be sent back to newbie status... permanently :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Old Scout


PURE CRAP:mad3:

DOM is mild steel as well!

HREW is just fine for a frame.

Check your spec book, it is over twice as strong. DOPESMOKER!:smokin:
OldScout likes to use PVC for the frame, its just as strong as Mild HREW, and much easier to make lookalike Smittybilt bars from, the trick is having the purple glue flow like a weld so the other guys cant tell!

Yea it's stronger but it's not needed. A 5 ton Rockwell is stronger than a D60 but it not right for all applications. Your spreading the BS a wee bit thick don't you think! Faucking Dumbass

Why build the foundation of your truck with cheap material? Why go half way? Would you go out and buy the old lady a boob job and just stop at a B cup? Its "adequate" right? Geez... Excess is best! DOM is a D cup baby, Chromoly is Porn... I love this country!

Originally posted by RocKrawler
Why build the foundation of your truck with cheap material? Why go half way? country!

Go lay under your yota and take a good look at the frame. Care to tell me what you see?

BTW since I'm checking specs you want 1020 or 1018 tubing?

Checking Specs and It's all mild steel. What kind of mild are you talking about?

1018
Typical Chemical Analysis:
C .15-.20
Mn .60-.90
P .040 max
S .050 max


1020
Typical Chemical Analysis:
C .15-.25
Mn .30-.60
P .040 max
S .050 max


1010
Typical Chemical Analysis:
C .08-.13
Mn .30-.60
P .035 max
S .035 max


CAN you even tell me what one is DOM,HERW,SEAMLESS

ok RocKrawler. yeah ill build my frame out of DOM. hell its better to have excess right?

ill also put rockwell 5 tons in my rig.

ill take a twin turbo, nitroused merlin 540 and put it in too. hell, more is better, right?

ill run a 5000:1 crawl ratio, because more is better!

ill run 62" tall tires, because more is better!

fawking dubass, you have been spanked by OS big time. and what the hell is this with you making fun of newbies? perhaps you would like to tell the board how many posts YOU have? how long ago was it that you were a newbie, 3, 4 weeks?

keep your BS to yourself.

Originally posted by 9-Volt


fawking dubass, you have been spanked by OS big time. and what the hell is this with you making fun of newbies? perhaps you would like to tell the board how many posts YOU have? how long ago was it that you were a newbie, 3, 4 weeks?

keep your BS to yourself.

Take your own advice and STFU, OldScout doesn't need YOU for backup. :rolleyes:

i prefer cold drawn 4130, but that's just me.

Originally posted by Hayraker


Take your own advice and STFU, OldScout doesn't need YOU for backup. :rolleyes:

Adam's cool:cool: . For a young punk is sure does know his shit. :p In the old days of POR if somebody posted crap like this we would on got a rope. The Board has gone soft when you can get an answer to a Question like this! (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54478)

Originally posted by BornInAJeep
i prefer cold drawn 4130, but that's just me.

I forgot the :rolleyes:

Originally posted by BornInAJeep
i prefer cold drawn 4130, but that's just me.

Typical Chemical Analysis:
C .28-.33
Mn .40-.60
P .035 max
S .040 max
Si .15-.35
Cr .80-1.10
Mo .15-.25
Fe remainder


Let me Guess 4.00-5.00/ft?

Originally posted by 9-Volt
ok RocKrawler. yeah ill build my frame out of DOM. hell its better to have excess right?

ill also put rockwell 5 tons in my rig.

ill take a twin turbo, nitroused merlin 540 and put it in too. hell, more is better, right?

ill run a 5000:1 crawl ratio, because more is better!

ill run 62" tall tires, because more is better!

fawking dubass, you have been spanked by OS big time. and what the hell is this with you making fun of newbies? perhaps you would like to tell the board how many posts YOU have? how long ago was it that you were a newbie, 3, 4 weeks?

keep your BS to yourself.

One or the other dude, pick a stance and stick with it. One minute your bitchin about bashin newbies, the next you bashin them yourself. For fawks sake be consistent.
Apply your post to yourself (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54478)

Eric
I don't know what steel supply shops are around Sierra Vista but you should be able to buy either DOM or HREW tubing either square or round at most decent steel supply houses. I know there is a Tube Service Co. supply there somewhere around Phoenix.
602-267-9865

BTW
DOM=1020/1026
ERW=1010
CDS=1018/1026
:D

Originally posted by kwrangln


One or the other dude, pick a stance and stick with it. One minute your bitchin about bashin newbies, the next you bashin them yourself. For fawks sake be consistent.
Apply your post to yourself (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54478)

im not bitchin about bashin newbies, im bitchin about newbies who think they are hot shit cause they have 200 posts bashing newbies :flipoff2:

Originally posted by RocKrawler
try and run DOM tube instead of mild, the difference is DOM is seamless, mild is welded... Oh and :flipoff2: newbie ( Sorry, but if I dont do it, my keyboard will self destruct )


DOM is not seamless it's DRAWN OVER MANDREL(duh) this gives it a more consistant measurement (i.e. ID and OD) the process also increases the strength around 30% to 40%.

Originally posted by GDGMOJO



DOM is not seamless it's DRAWN OVER MANDREL(duh)

Drawn over mandrel after it's been welded!:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Old Scout


Drawn over mandrel after it's been welded!:flipoff2:

Guess I didn't make it clear?

Originally posted by GDGMOJO


Guess I didn't make it clear?

You have to be careful around here some of these guys think DOM is more than just carbon steel tube!

Originally posted by Old Scout


You have to be careful around here some of these guys think DOM is more than just carbon steel tube!

Your right about that :)
One thing I can't recall do they heat it prior or draw it over cold?

Originally posted by GDGMOJO


Your right about that :)
One thing I can't recall do they heat it prior or draw it over cold?

Here is the snip from my supplier
1020 DOM STEEL TUBE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1020 is normally used in the manufacturing of small-diameter or thin-wall DOM steel tube. DOM is formed from strip and electric-resistance welded, then cold drawn to size. The cold drawing process causes the weld line to virtually disappear.

rectangular dom?
here is my thought on this, yeah dom is stronger, if I was building a race truck I would use it to maximize strength but then I'd probably go chomoly too. for a weekend toy why bother? if you want it stronger use thicker or more tubes.
I have rolled welded seam tubing many times and never had a failure because the tubing size and setup was chosen for that reason, if I had used dom I could have used one size smaller but at what cost?

Originally posted by Old Scout


You have to be careful around here some of these guys think DOM is more than just carbon steel tube!

THANK YOU! (Stayed out of this one... didn't have the energy to fight the ill-informed)

Originally posted by Old Scout


You have to be careful around here some of these guys think DOM is more than just carbon steel tube!

didn't you know? DOM gets your beer for you, slices and dices, and even makes julienne fries! :rasta:

Originally posted by twaldher


THANK YOU! (Stayed out of this one... didn't have the energy to fight the ill-informed)

Your welcome,but We all need to smack down the dumbasses. The POR BB has had a long standing tradition of hard core tech that is always correct. If you post crap you get run off. WE NEED TO KEEP THE TRADITION GOING!

I am going to enlighten you DOM fellas with a story! I built some nerf bars out of sch 40 pipe (1 1/2"). These where made to work as steps then be taken out flipped and put on the oppisite side, they then are rocker protectors. Basically the same as sold by the cheesy mail order catalogs. They looked great and worked great for two years. Then two weeks ago I recieved a call from the emergency room, the better half was in an accident. I instantly asked how the jeep was (hehehehehe) not really but---the saturn that went thru the red light hit her broadside at forty mph, passenger side half of the impact was on the bar the other half on the tire. The sch 40 pipe did NOT bend. It actually ripped my mounts right OUT of the frame!

Moral of the story, if sch 40 pipe was not going to hold, it would have shown up here, not only that, I am DAMN glad it was on there because with a jeep 6" in the air and on 33's, the thing should have rolled, instead the bar absorbed the impact and simply pulled out of the frame and on to the pavement. She did a 180 and ended up facing the oppisite direction.

Good news is the jeep IS fixable, and well, she is all right too!!!



:beer: :beer: :beer:

I'm so sick of you stupid fawkers that don't know shit about metal! But then take it upon yourselves to enlighten people that they shouldn't even think about building cages, bumpers, rocker knockers, or whatever out of anything less than DOM! Mild steel is Mild steel is Mild steel, it doesn't matter if you give it the name pipe, HREW, or DOM they all come in mild steel and the actual steel is the same, one metal is not stronger than the other, the over all structure may be stronger but the metal properties are the same. The difference is in the over all consistency of the metal and the final welding process as in the difference between HREW and DOM. Consistency varies more in pipe, less in HREW, and even less in DOM. As an extreme example you might get a 1/4 inch thick piece of pipe that might be 3/16 in some places or maybe a bit less or more. So the thickness of the metal you get is more consistent going to DOM. So stop with the shit about pipe or HREW is bad, cause you just show your ignorance to those that really know metal! 2X4X3/16 would be a lot heavier a frame than what you probably have now so go with it and don't think you are using cheap material for your foundation!
:flipoff2:

Originally posted by ECF
I'm so sick of you stupid fawkers that don't know shit about metal! But then take it upon yourselves to enlighten people that they shouldn't even think about building cages, bumpers, rocker knockers, or whatever out of anything less than DOM! Mild steel is Mild steel is Mild steel, it doesn't matter if you give it the name pipe, HREW, or DOM they all come in mild steel and the actual steel is the same, one metal is not stronger than the other, the over all structure may be stronger but the metal properties are the same. The difference is in the over all consistency of the metal and the final welding process as in the difference between HREW and DOM. Consistency varies more in pipe, less in HREW, and even less in DOM. As an extreme example you might get a 1/4 inch thick piece of pipe that might be 3/16 in some places or maybe a bit less or more. So the thickness of the metal you get is more consistent going to DOM. So stop with the shit about pipe or HREW is bad, cause you just show your ignorance to those that really know metal! 2X4X3/16 would be a lot heavier a frame than what you probably have now so go with it and don't think you are using cheap material for your foundation!
:flipoff2:


What does ASME state for specs for variance of thickness for 1010,1018,1020? I can't find any specs with my on line resources.
BOB

DOM's stronger than HREW for more than the consistancy, but that does play a part. If it's cold drawn after welding then the tubing will be work hardened and have a higher strength than HREW, unless that is work hardened too. Yes, for the same material, 1020 etc, they have the same basic properties and strength, but through processs you can make them stronger - just as cold rolled 1020 is stronger than hot rolled 1020, assuming no other process changes.

Old Scout is correct, and also injectedEB.

HREW-great for crawlers- if you think that DOM is better for you then by all means BUY IT some one has to.

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS HOW THE FINAL STRUCTURE IS BUILT- ERW or DOM.

weldpro


EDIT; "work hardening" is not always a good thing ductility(not really fucking hard) & ultimate yeild strength combined mean more to me for the tubes given application.

Originally posted by injectedEB
, but through processs you can make them stronger - just as cold rolled 1020 is stronger than hot rolled 1020, assuming no other process changes.

I thought hot finish is 1026?

What does ASME state for specs for variance of thickness for 1010,1018,1020? I can't find any specs with my on line resources.

I'm not going to dig out my spec book, but I typically 4130 DOM .049 wall tubing varies +/- .002 inches. I would assume that your variences would be a similar percent for any metal.

I would also like to add a comment about the steel debate. The strength of a tube is determined by its composition (ie mild steel, chromoly, etc), shape (ie round, square, etc), and processing (cold rolled, hot rolled, welded, etc). It is a combination of all these factors and it varies between every type of tubing and they list the stength in a great big book called the spec book. So a typical design would call for a certain strength and you would find a tube that provides that. If you are worried about weight you will buy a expensive piece of chomoly. If you are worried about cost you will buy some mild steel. Same strenght different metals.

So, do you adamanet DOM advocates use it for everything on a build up? That is a bit excessive, IMO.

Next I am gonna hear is the 2x4 rectangle tubing is inadequate for a frame, even though the stock, strapped shannel worked for around 50 years.....:rolleyes:

DOM has it's place, HREW has it's place.

Alright, I am a dumbass. I have no clue what all the numbers you all are throughing out even mean. All I would like to know is what should I use for long control arms????? Should I use DOM, pipe, or what.

Thanks

Originally posted by 9-Volt
ok RocKrawler. yeah ill build my frame out of DOM. hell its better to have excess right?

ill also put rockwell 5 tons in my rig.

ill take a twin turbo, nitroused merlin 540 and put it in too. hell, more is better, right?

ill run a 5000:1 crawl ratio, because more is better!

ill run 62" tall tires, because more is better!

fawking dubass, you have been spanked by OS big time. and what the hell is this with you making fun of newbies? perhaps you would like to tell the board how many posts YOU have? how long ago was it that you were a newbie, 3, 4 weeks?

keep your BS to yourself.

Bite me... Lets see.. I'm a recent newbie.. and member # 205, your'e the master of desktop wheeling with over 1100 posts.. and member #8871. Whos been around longer? I just spend my time wheeling and working on my truck, you type and play with your mouse all day. If I believed in excess, I'd tell him to use 4340, but DOM would me more than sufficient. If you like HREW, use it. I've seen HREW used in a cage & crack & fail when it rolled, havent seen it in DOM. For a few extra bucks, the DOM is better, but I never said you had to go with "excess" into chromoly or exotic materials. Keep your turbocharged, rockwelled, 62" tired Dihatsu Rocky dream vehicle alive and post pics when your'e done, I'd love to see it. If you judge knowledge on how many posts you have, then your'e the king. Thats all thats important, right?

Taylormade -- Not too much on 4x4 Frame building published in books. Lots of the metal folks on POR will have years of experience of what works & what doesn't. Lots of trade off in goals, as a 500 hp megatorque monster will be built different then a 100hp crawler.

Meanwhile, a couple off books that are worth while in picking up just to give some insight about frames are:

So-Cal Speed Shop's How to Build Hot Rod Chassis (Powerpro)
(http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0760308365/qid=1021476820/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_1/104-0410584-9519117) FUn reading for those days at the lake!

To get a good idea of what frame sizing is needed are a couple of books (spiral bound) about building trailers How to build trailers Volume 1 (http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=14707&prmenbr=6970) Grab both volume 1 & 2. Don't plan on building a trailer from the books, but you will get an appreciation of angle vs C channel vs. Boxed in frame sections. Nice addition to your tech library when new to all this stuff.

Hell, you could even build a decent frame out of wood! Just watch out for the termites! :D Doesn't matter what you build a frame out of if it does the job!

Oh, we all learned somewhere. Lots of good advice around here, even if I still feel a little crispy fried at time (watch out for :roxy: if you venture into chat areas. ) :D

Tom :usa:

Originally posted by RocKrawler


Bite me... Lets see.. I'm a recent newbie.. and member # 205,

Your member 416 not 205! :laughing: :laughing:

You didn't even know what the fluck HREW was yesterday and now a few hours latter your the master of fab & professor of metallurgy :rolleyes:

9-Volt. I've been on this board quite a while longer than you, visit and contribute INFORMATION everyday and yet you still have 3 times the post count as I do. Interesting...

Anyway, as already posted. HREW has it's place. I think it's stonger for things that take a repeated bashing (rock skiis and bumpers). It seems to hold up better (I'm speaking of using sched 40 or 80). The problem is it's a lot heavier as well.

If you're making links for your suspenions, I'd go with a rectangular heavy walled box steel (not necessarily DOM). I think the shape of the rectangular box handles coming down on rocks better than pipe/tube.

:flipoff2: newbies, :flipoff2: oldies, :flipoff2: everybody, :flipoff2: me (ladies only please...)!

Originally posted by Old Scout


Your member 416 not 205! :laughing: :laughing:

You didn't even know what the fluck HREW was yesterday and now a few hours latter your the master of fab & professor of metallurgy :rolleyes:

Knew what HREW was then & now. Sorry, looked at the posts instead of the member #, and directed it to 9volt, not toward you. And NOWHERE did I EVER say I was master of fab or Professor of metallurgy, just said DOM was stronger.. and it is. Whatever reasoning you want to use, professional shops use DOM and Chromoly when building trucks and frames. If you or anyone else wants to use HREW mild, use it. But why not use better material if its only a few bucks more. If you got your banana hammock in a wad because I replied to 9 volt, fine. Will mild work on a frame? Yes. Is it worth gazillions to go to chromoly? Probably not. Is there anything wrong going to DOM? No.

Originally posted by RocKrawler


Knew what HREW was then & now.

YEA right. If you knew why did you post this kind of BS?
DOM is mild carbon steel dumbass!. DOM is welded! There was nothing correct about your post.


Originally posted by RocKrawler
try and run DOM tube instead of mild, the difference is DOM is seamless, mild is welded



Originally posted by RocKrawler

But why not use better material if its only a few bucks more.

It's only 2.5 to 3 times as expensive!:rolleyes:

Geez... seems like a lot more for the same strength material :rolleyes:

no seems to have mentioned the added complexity of welding the cro mo.
doesnt it require tig where anyone can mig up mild steel?
obviously, I am not a welder or fab guy.
we should turn down the tempers on this thread though, we are all in this game together.
good info, lively debate, please try and avoid the personal shots guys.

Guess it depends on what DOM youre using... theres 1020 ERW with a yield point of 70ksi compared to common HREW 1010 yield strength of 32ksi.... stronger?... Still just mild weak tubing? :rolleyes:
Or theres 1026 DOM SEAMLESS with a yield of 72ksi. Rockwell hardness differences are 60 for the 1010 and 80 for the 1020 DOM, 89 for the 1026 SEAMLESS DOM.

So is there SEAMLESS DOM ... Yes
Is both welded and seamless DOM stronger than standard 1010 mild? ... Yes

Does OldScout look like a dumbass now because there is such a thing as seamless DOM and he said there wasnt ... Yes

What is the moral to the story.... dont let your colon block your field of view... do some research... take that piece of corn out of your eye and dont think you couldnt possibly ever be wrong.
I'm wrong plenty, heck, I couldnt even list my member number correctly... but just because I dont have a stupid number of posts doesnt mean I dont know anything. I respect the fact you have been here since dirt. But you didnt know everything either, did you? Although it is more than HREW 1010, it isnt as expensive as 4130 is it?

Thanks for all the replies, maybe this will help a little more. The Jeep is a 67 CJ-5 tub, going to run a 400 SB Chevy engine, 700r4 tranny, D60 front, and 14bolt rear, I have everything and all I need is to get the frame designed and built. I started the measuring and drawing the other day. I will be trying to set it up so the suspension does all the flexing with very little frame flex. I have a CJ-7 frame but it is very rusted and alot of cracks and breaks. Basically, what have you done for frames?

Thanks,
Eric

Geez.. I'm gonna catch crap for this too.. I'll try and say this in the least offensive way to everyone... If you need it cheap and weight isnt an issue... use standard mild steel tubing, just make it thick. If you want it lighter and stronger, but dont mind spending more $$$ use DOM, if you want it total overkill use chromoly. BUT MILD WELDED WILL WORK IF ITS THICK ENOUGH AND WELDED CORRECTLY. There.. is everyone happy?:D

Originally posted by RocKrawler


Does OldScout look like a dumbass now because there is such a thing as seamless DOM and he said there wasnt ... Yes

Dude get your facts right I never said that! Seamless is 1018 seamless and DOM is 1020,1026. It's a totally different process making 1020 vs 1018! 1018 seamless is made by spearing a solid rod, 1020 and 1026 is made by welding flat stock and drawing it over a mandrel.:mad3: :mad3:

6 posts up you said DOM was welded.. 1020 is...1026 isnt.. nuff said.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by RocKrawler
6 posts up you said DOM was welded.. 1020 is...1026 isnt.. nuff said.:flipoff2:

Just can't stop making yourself look like a fool can you?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Go look up the ASTM specs, here is a little info to help your sorry little brain:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1020 DOM STEEL TUBE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1020 is normally used in the manufacturing of small-diameter or thin-wall DOM steel tube. DOM is formed from strip and electric-resistance welded, then cold drawn to size. The cold drawing process causes the weld line to virtually disappear.
American Specifications: ASTM A513 Type 5

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

1026 STEEL TUBE


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1026 grade is normally used in the manufacturing of DOM, cold drawn seamless and hot finished seamless. This grade normally furnished over 2" OD, with walls heavier than .156". A variety of thermal treatments can be supplied, depending on the type and size of material.

American Specifications: ASTM A519 (SMLS), ASTM A513 Type 5 (DOM)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

1018 COLD DRAWN AND HOT FINISHED SEAMLESS TUBE


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1018 is normally used in the manufacturing of cold drawn and hot finished seamless tube. The production of seamless tube is generally made by piercing a hot rolled bar. Hot finished is generally furnished in the unannealed condition, whereas cold drawn seamless is supplied in the unannealed or S/R annealed conditions, depending on the size.

American Specifications: ASTM A519

JACKASS... where does it say welded on 1026 ? I saw Seamless...You posted seamless.... :eek:

OldScout- is correct!

Rockrawler- he's got you beat just leave it alone man.

weldpro

BTW-oldscout what do you prefer to use hrew or dom?, and congarts on the sweet 210 & spoolgun- that has to be the best deal I have EVER seen.

NO HE said 1026 is used to manufacture DOM( which if it must be said again IS A FUCKING ERW TUBE PERIOD) AND SEAMLESS whether or not its hot or cold finished.

FUCK -now your pissing me off.
damnit

How is he correct? Its seamless, not welded like 1020? If I'm wrong, I want to know worse than you want to prove it to me, but it clearly says that 1020 is welded, and 1026 isnt. :mad2:

Originally posted by weldpro
OldScout- is correct!

Rockrawler- he's got you beat just leave it alone man.

weldpro

BTW-oldscout what do you prefer to use hrew or dom?, and congarts on the sweet 210 & spoolgun- that has to be the best deal I have EVER seen.
Thanks weldpro I've grown tired to playing with the little mental midget.

Hey Weldpro what are your thoughts on using 4043 wire on 6061-T6 with a Helium and not Argon?

R E A D S L O W L Y... 1026 is a GRADE... a grade of hot finished or cold drawn S E A M L E S S tubing. Welding is a seam, seamless isnt welded. :rasta:

Notice this;

ASTM grade 513 DOM whatever type in 1026 OR 1020

AND

ASTM grade 519 (SEAMLESS) 1026

OldScout- you daMan

Rockrawler- I cant see how I could change anything to make you understand anything posted here any better. All I can tell you is that I own a general welding fab shop , and have for several years. I work with all metals, and all welding processes I work in the feild , and in the shop. Although I dont know absolutely everything (the welding world is very vast) I know a whole lot, and what I wrote above is truth not by my standards or by Oldscouts but rather the folks who make the rules, and by those standards (the ones I must live by) they state a fact to which you wish to say is wrong. I cant argue with you , and neither can Oldscout we can only state the facts from the resources at our disposal.
hope this workds for you. If you need clarification that I cant seem to give you try JasonMT he is probably the most informed person on this board NOT ONLY was he a welder by trade he finished school , and went on to be a welding engineer -He's a smart MoFo.
weldpro


OldScout- I would suggest using argon only with the spool gun. The only time I will ever use helium is in a mix if I am using TIG on AL or Mg that is VERY thick, and this would be hardly ever.
Helium can make for an erratic arc , and the blends are generally much more cash. I am guessing you must want to weld something thicker than normal for you to be wanting to use Helium? Also for 6061 for best strength & ductility (as welded) er5356 is a better choice. Is this a structure (critical?) If it is look at how much strength you lose after welding without using a post heat treatment----scary.

I was always told true DOM is not welded, and the book I have says 1026 isnt, but 1020 clearly is. If I misunderstand what I'm reading, and I very well could be, I apologize. The book I have states the same as OS posted, but since it says seamless, I take that as being 1 piece, unwelded. Regardless of this fact, by the yield rate, either DOM appears to be markedly stronger than 1010, is this true, or do I read that wrong also? :confused:

blah blah blah...




Maybe you ladies should take this to chit chat :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Didn't mean to get everyone fired up. This is strictly gonna be a trail rig. I am just wondering if going to the steel company and getting some 2x4x3/16" steel tubing and building it, and welding it really well is gonna do better than a stock CJ-5 frame would? I don't think I need chromolly but I would like something a little stronger than the stock CJ5 frame.

Thanks,
Eric

I think anything's gonna be stronger than that stock frame. From the junk I've seen in the past the biggest problem is the piss poor factory welds holding the channels together.
If I was gonna do it, it'd be whatever mild box tubing ya like, square and burned in good, with beefy crossmembers. It doesn't take much to beat a stock CJ frame. It's too easy to make it way heavier than you need though.

so i know PVC is weeker them DOM
so if i over size the PVC it will steel work for a frame:flipoff2: