Anyone got a part number for a Ford or Chevy 3/4 ton TRE with the tapered hole for draglink connection?

My buddy needs to redo his EB steering and we want to go over the top and get rid of that "Y" steering BS that Ford used. I am going to help him build it, and want to use a TRE with the connection for the draglink for strength purposes.

http://www.shakerbuilt.com/Tech_Info.html

heres a bud of mines site, if you dont find what ya need then feel free to email him cuz i am sure that he will give you a hand.

-j-rOd

ES2233L

You will need to retaper the draglink mounting hole, because it is too small for mounting a draglink.

And it is tapered on the wrong side if you are going to use that is the right hand TRE. So drill it out and retaper the hole.

1) 1.250 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with the 0.812" ID will work

2) 1.5" .120 DOM for sleeving (optional)

3) Tie rod tube should be about 38"for stock early Bronco knuckles (39.5" for 76-77 disk knuckles) and drag link should be about 25" for high misalignment ends and 27" if using the tie
rod ends for the drag link). If using the F150 box and the high misalignment ends, then the drag link tube length should be 18.75".

4) 7/8" x 18 UNEF extra fine left and right hand taps
Travers Tool Co, Inc
14-056-182 (plug style)7/8-18 right hand $20.47
McMaster-Carr
2595A424 7/8-18 right hand $49
2595A999 7/8-18 left hand $108

5) Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=8ClassID=121SubclassID=5 65&ProductID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

6) Rod ends
-pass side tie rod (with hole and regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-driver side tie rod (regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-pass side drag link end (high misalignment)
-pitman arm side drag link end (high misalignment)

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end

Autozone Online Prices:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $24.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $24.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $24.99 high misalignment drag link end

7) big end of the tie rod is .78" and the small end is around .67"

8) The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't. I searched high and low for the source for the jam nuts and have only come up with the Chevy part numbers which are 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand)

The Snap On reamer p/n R121 is not the correct taper, it's close, but a 7/8 TRE will not fit right.

Originally posted by Scouter
The Snap On reamer p/n R121 is not the correct taper, it's close, but a 7/8 TRE will not fit right.

Yep, 7* does not equal 1.5" per foot.

I should add that the snap on one is junk.
Its not a reamer, but a clean up, to clean up the area, so in other words, don't buy it

So Mark,

Instead of tapping the rod, I thought it would be easier to use these: http://www.avalancheengineering.com/parts/steering/tie_rod_links.htm scroll down to Tube Adaptors. Weld those babies in and screw the TRE's right in. Cheaper than buying $157 worth of taps, for sure. The only issue I see is getting 1" inside diameter tube, anything with wall thickness at all and we're in the 1.5" outside diameter range. I think we may run into clearance issues then, as far as shocks and mounts go.

By the way, that's great info that you provided, feel up to making one of those up that I could **look** at and possibly hold in my hand?? **wink wink** :D

LOL
Yeah when i first saw those inserts i post here about them, a lot of people have bought them and realy liked them, I say go for them

so are any of those the correct reamer?
I bought and fawked the snap one
and would like the CORRECT one
and the TAPS as well
I think billa vista had posted a source....

I have the one from Stock Car Products. It is the correct one at 1.5" per foot.

I got the Avalanche inserts. The right hand ones were fine, but I can't get the left hand ones to thread all the way through. Eric was good enough to run his tap through them for me (thanks again) and they still don't work. The nuts will run up & down the threads (on the TRE) easily, but the inserts will not, even after chasing the threads. I tried both inserts on 2 different TREs & no go. Anyone have a fix?
Anyway, I just wanted to let you know the inserts may not be the best way to go unless you buy the TREs from them & have them make sure the work.
I got 1.5" tube from www.onlinemetals.com . I recommend them, great prices & service. Probably overkill for my Jeep, but thats OK.
Maybe 38's next year.

it was just posted that 1.5 per foot is not the correct one??

Originally posted by mj
it was just posted that 1.5 per foot is not the correct one??

Where? Who posted that?

Here is the spec for the Moog ES2233L TRE taper:
0.675" top dia = X
0.776" bot dia = Y
0.808" heigth = Z

So......

Taper (in/ft) = ((Y-X)/Z)*12 = ((.776-.675)/.808)*12 = 1.5"/ft

ANGLE (*) = invTAN((Y-X)/Z) = invTAN((.776-.675)/.808)
7.125*

So, a 7* taper is close, but not exact!

You know would be cool, to find some of those conical washers that are the opposite of what they are. That is, have them tapered inside and vertical on the outside. Well, then you could just drill out your knuckles, insert the washers, add a couple of spot welds, and you're done. Anyone have any leads on insider tapered washers?

Thanx.

-Josh

D & C (http://www.dandcextreme.com/susp/parts.html) offers a "Flip-Sert" wich is basical what you describe.

Not sure on the taper, I *think* they have it set up for the small scout taper... but will probably make it for the larger one opon request.


worth a call at least.

Originally posted by junger
You know would be cool, to find some of those conical washers that are the opposite of what they are. That is, have them tapered inside and vertical on the outside. Well, then you could just drill out your knuckles, insert the washers, add a couple of spot welds, and you're done. Anyone have any leads on insider tapered washers?

Thanx.

-Josh
http://www.bcbroncos.com/bushings1.gif

I know BC bronco's and many others sell them
http://www.bcbroncos.com/

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
D & C (http://www.dandcextreme.com/susp/parts.html) offers a "Flip-Sert" wich is basical what you describe.

Not sure on the taper, I *think* they have it set up for the small scout taper... but will probably make it for the larger one opon request.


worth a call at least.


Well, and this is way better than buying a tapered reamer for just one time use. Cool. Thanks.

Welndmn, I mean the taper the other way. Tapered inside and straight vertical outside.

-Josh

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
D & C (http://www.dandcextreme.com/susp/parts.html) offers a "Flip-Sert" wich is basical what you describe.

Not sure on the taper, I *think* they have it set up for the small scout taper... but will probably make it for the larger one opon request.


worth a call at least.

Muahhhhh!!! Called them up and ordered them today! It cost about $65 total for four including shipping. They're actually using the same tie rod end I'm planning to use (medium taper). These guys are awesome!

THANKS AGAIN!!!

-Josh

ok does .125 degrees make a difference? cause thats the reamer I used to build my truck and they seem to be fitted fine.
it dosn't hold up well? what are you driving it with an air gun? I have used mine with a ratchet and with a half in makita drill thru a pitman arm and an inch of plate steel starting with a 1/2 hole and it has no wear on it at all.
besides its warrantied

Originally posted by Scouter
The Snap On reamer p/n R121 is not the correct taper, it's close, but a 7/8 TRE will not fit right.

What??!! I'm about to go fetch the Dodge pitman arm I need to finish my upgraded high-steer on my race Scout.. and I have the Snap-On reamer to ream out the Dodge hole for the Chevy TREs.. 7/8".. that need to go in. New draglink is sitting there ready to go...

S'posed to have this swapped before I leave Friday to go play.. guess I'll see how well it works.

are you sure its warrantied?
mine was pooched as soon as I put it in the pitman arm.
it did the steering arm fine.
owned it for about 5 minutes before I ruined it