alright this is it... im swapping in a 350 with a 700r4. only i need a 700r4. and the big catch is i know absolutley nothing about them. i have read what the gears are but thats about it, the internet doesnt really like me too much when i search, so im on here looking for some input and information. mainly on how to identify one in a junk yard. i can buy one from the local PNP for $400, is that a good deal? but i would like to see if i can pull one myself for cheaper, then rebuild it, what do i need to look for when looking for these tranny's?

thanks

You should check out bowtieoverdrive.com, all they do is 700R4 trans.

700....rectangle pan, servo and tv cable on passenger side, governor cover on driver side.

How hard are 700r4s to rebuild anyway?

http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr3/129239.jpg

I dont have a star so you have to click on it.
Pic of a 700R4.

Couple things to watch for, becuase there are several varieties of 700R4.
There is the 60 degree 700R4 which looks exaclty like the 90 degreee 700R4. You want the 90 degree version. The 90 degree version bolts up to all sbc and 4.3L V6. The 60 degree bolts up to smaller V6.

Get one from a 4x4. It will have the output shaft you need and the t-case adapter.
The better years are '87-'92/'93. GM fixed the reliability issues in '87, and in '93 they switched to the 4L60E.

i was talking to a mechanic from work and said he has a couple he get rid of. some are around $250 and he has one laying on the ground (dont know if its dirt or concrete) for $75 that needs a rebuild. he asked me if i wanted one with a big shaft or the small shaft. what is the difference? whats the spline count? and he also said that in general they are not a very good tranny but if built right they are great... what the hell is that supposed to mean? i will rebuild any tranny but what do i have to put into it to make it a good tranny for four wheelin??

that means the gearing in the tranny is awesome but the tranny itself blows only rated at like 250 pound feet of torque if you don't have the throttle cable setup right your going to kill it. you need to upgrade the valve body and clutch packs I would reccomend tci parts. as far as rebuild difficulty not alot more complicated than a th350 or th400

the 700's can be built to handle nearly 800hp according to some of the big block caddy guys. I havn't seen one that was rated past 550hp pro-built. the caddy's have a tremendous amount of torque though and they run them on the road all the time.

as far as large shaft/small shaft--the early models had a small shaft, 27 spline input off the tq converter. the later (87 and up I believe) models have a larger, 31 spline input. The output shafts are the same.

No idea what he means. Altough I could speculate that he is insinuating that from the factory they are so so.

For an auto tranny it has one of the lowest if not the lowest first gear, 3.06 ratio.
It has the best Overdrive gear ratio.
It also has a lock up feature which reduces slippage, improves fuel efficiency, and helps the tranny live longer.
Properly built, it can handle 450foot pounds of torque, no idea what that translates into horsepower.
It weighs roughly 200 pounds soaking wet.
And rebuild parts are everywhere. This transmission has been in service for over 2 decades. GM put it in almost everything 1/2 ton and lighter with rear wheel drive.

i'm going to run a 700R4 & the biggest weak link is the fawkin TV cable which is why i'm thinking of running a reverse mvb. check out raptor PATC's 700R4s or monster motorsports. i've heard good things about both of them.

The shaft size means the input . and you want the large input the later model setup.

I am wondering what is the difference between a Painless #60109
and a electric lock-up. I am installing a 700R4 into my '75 Toyota Land crusier. I have a '89 350 T.B. I do not know the differences between the
Vacuum control (painless #60109) and the electric kinds. Which one is better???

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the TV cable is there only to control shifts right? Get a full manual valve body and totally shit can the TV cable. Then you control the shifts. Just my $.02

Neil

EDIT: 72Blazer, maybe if I had read better, I'd have seen you wrote that already

I am wondering what is the difference between a Painless #60109
and a electric lock-up. I am installing a 700R4 into my '75 Toyota Land crusier. I have a '89 350 T.B. I do not know the differences between the
Vacuum control (painless #60109) and the electric kinds. Which one is better???



Either one, they do the same thing. Those kits are more like self-installed "tow/haul" button found in later year model cars and trucks. They just use different mechanisms to control it.

There is another kit you can install (requires dropping the valve body I believe) that will allow you to lock the torque converter in any of the 4 forward gears. It's been tool long since I looked into them to remember any part #'s and such, but the bowtieoverdrive is your best source for information.


As far as removing the TV cable and going to full manual, it would defeat the purpose of having an auto transmission. Plus, it's really not all that hard to get one set up if you slow down and pay attention to your directions.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the TV cable is there only to control shifts right? Get a full manual valve body and totally shit can the TV cable. Then you control the shifts. Just my $.02

Neil

EDIT: 72Blazer, maybe if I had read better, I'd have seen you wrote that already

either way sounds good. :smokin: but i think yours is a bit clearer