What's the taper angle on a LR tie rod end? I have some new Ford tie rod ends that are the same size (11/16) with the same thread pitch (16=fine thread), but I don't know if the taper is the same.

If the taper is the same (7 degrees on the Fords), you can now start buying your tie rod ends from Speedway Motors (P/N 910-02919/LH & P/N 910-02909/RH) for $9.95 each. They also have the jam nuts (P/N 910-01449/LH & P/N 910-01249/RH) for $1.49 each. Beats the hell out of $60 plus at the dealer.:eek:

The OEM parts are $28.00 from Roversdownsouth.com.

Part# RTC5869 - $28

Blister

ps. non-genuine are even cheaper (I paid about $15 each from an us online dealer).

greaseable?

Johnathan

Jonathan, yes they are greasable. Any idea on the taper angle?

Hey Greg,

How are those bumpers coming along?? Post some picks of your latest creations!!

My understanding is the taper is different.

14.58 from thatchedroofgarage for non-genuine greasable D90/RR/Disco ones

Ron

Hank, I'm finishing up two rear bumpers this weekend. After that, I really need to work on my hot rod and get it to the rolling stage so I can sell it. Then I'm doing a swing away tire/can/jack carrier that mounts to my rear bumper.

Ron, thanks for the info. I'll try to confirm that. I've got the Ford ends so I'll probably just see if it fits the stock arm on my Disco.

Yes, I am bringing this back from the dead. Greg, did you ever find out if the taper is the same? Are the Ford TREs the right thread pitch? Or are they 18?

All of the Ford Tie Rod Ends I have found are 11/16-18 and not 11/16-16 like the Land Rover Tie rod ends, are you sure the ones you found are 11/16-16?

IIRC rover is 1 in 10 or 5.7deg. and double supposedly FJ80 is the same. but I cant confirm because I haven't tried to bolt one up yet...

edit, dang this is old...

80 series TRE's might be the same taper but they don't fit. IIRC they're thicker.

80 series TRE's might be the same taper but they don't fit. IIRC they're thicker.


you are correct, same taper but the diameters differ also.

you are correct, same taper but the diameters differ also.

so, can I drill out the hole, or does it just need to be reamed deeper? if i can easily make it work it would make my life much easier...

so, can I drill out the hole, or does it just need to be reamed deeper? if i can easily make it work it would make my life much easier...

From what I remember, if you stick a LC80 TRE into a LR steering arm, the threaded part only just pokes out the other side a few mm. I guess it needs to be drilled just a little bigger and reamed.

http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1896&category_id=132&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14

denny doler, HLCF, down in north georgia makes some heim jointed D2 track rods and drag links. he has a taper stud that bolts into the knuckle.

hard labor creek fabrication.

I have been searching everywhere for an 11/16-16 Left hand thread nut. Do any of you know what tie rod may use this size jamnut if any? It is for my brake lathe. I can't find one anywhere.

I have been searching everywhere for an 11/16-16 Left hand thread nut. Do any of you know what tie rod may use this size jamnut if any? It is for my brake lathe. I can't find one anywhere.

I can make you one.

pt@ptschram.com

what about a tube adapter to fit LR tre into 1"id tube?

Just call Denny...I though I texted you that last week...

If you need a tube adapter, a jam nut, or even a complete tie rod, call Justin @ Lucky8. (716) 725-3812.

what about a tube adapter to fit LR tre into 1"id tube?

Kyle,

I have changed the design of the adaptors that you looked at originally and they are alot stronger and actually smaller. We also dropped the heims down from 7/8" to 3/4" which doubled the movement from 7deg to 14deg with the same strengths and bumped the DOM from 1.25 to 1.5 O.D. due to bending. It is alot easier than what you are wanting to try and if you don't like it, you can unbolt it and move forward with the fun of drilling them out. These are old photos and I will post new ones as soon as I get some.

Denny, I am really hoping to stick with TRE's.

I was planning on using a ES2027L at the pitman arm, but my pitman arm was not reamed deep enough. so the only Left hand thread TRE i could find locally was the goofy one made for ylink steering(has the hole in it, es2033L i believe).... but it is long and goofs up the placement of the steering damper in conjunction with the PolyPerf tube adjuster. the other end has a fj80 TRE. I am going to redo it and am thinking that a L thread LR tre insert and jam nut will simplify it and not stick down quite as far as the chevy tre or the HLC setup. i have a tube clamp coming to mount the damper but wll be redoing the drag link... 1.5od DOM .25 wall.

Denny, I am really hoping to stick with TRE's.

I was planning on using a ES2027L at the pitman arm, but my pitman arm was not reamed deep enough. so the only Left hand thread TRE i could find locally was the goofy one made for ylink steering(has the hole in it, es2033L i believe).... but it is long and goofs up the placement of the steering damper in conjunction with the PolyPerf tube adjuster. the other end has a fj80 TRE. I am going to redo it and am thinking that a L thread LR tre insert and jam nut will simplify it and not stick down quite as far as the chevy tre or the HLC setup. i have a tube clamp coming to mount the damper but wll be redoing the drag link... 1.5od DOM .25 wall.

You can get the rh unit from autozone special order and it is actualy a Moog part in their house brand package. I'll have to go back and check the part number but think the aplication is an 85' W300 for the right and left in a regular style tre without the hole and they are a bit shorter than the es2027. I have a few brand new taper reamers left from the tre style bars I was making if you need one. Be careful when you ream it out, it doesn't take much and with cutting oil it goes very fast and before you realize you'll be asking if anyone has a spare set of knuckles you can replace on your truck.

And as far as the height of the heims and adaptors go, they are actually shorter than the stock tre's by about 1/4". They ones in the pictures of my last post are the old style and we have redesigned them. We also got rid of one of the mis alignment spacers and machined it into the adaptor. It is just enough to get the tie rod to clear any diffguard out there right now and it doesn't hit the diff either when using 1.5OD, it's close to hitting the diff when we were using the 1.25OD and the 1 ton tre's. The jpeg's below show the new design.

Im not running a normal setup. I still have a non reamed pitman arm too. Ill attach a pic when i get back home.

The problem with the es2027l is that it is reamed bigger but has a step down machine between the taper and the shank.

I wish i could run a fj80 tre at the arm but can't find a definitive answer to the taper.... Thatway all four would be the same l and r thread though.

http://tapa.tk/mu/6349d974-f34d-8b32.jpg
http://tapa.tk/mu/6349d974-f362-a2dc.jpg
http://tapa.tk/mu/6349d974-f3bb-90fe.jpg

I wish i could run a fj80 tre at the arm but can't find a definitive answer to the taper.... Thatway all four would be the same l and r thread though.

I was playing around with a LR TRE and FJ80 TRE this morning looking into this for you. The LR end would not even fit into the hole that the FJ80 is meant to. The diameter of the taper is much larger than the FJ80. You would need to run some sort of thick washer (like a williams washer) underneath the nut, which would be undesirable IMO.

There are a few companies that sell an insert that gets welded in, that is tapered for the FJ80. Unfortunately, I didn't have a LR pitman arm to see if there is enough material there to do so (I am guessing not).