I am looking to purchase what the seller tells me is a D60 from a 2000 Ford F250 SD. To my knowledge this doesn't exist and if he is correct with the year and model, this would actually be a D50. I have gone and looked at the axle and tried to read the BOM but the axle is rusted extensively along the long tube and I cannot see any sort of numbers. The webing area that would normaly contain the familiar D60F stamp on a true Dana 60 instead has 0335X (the X being an unreadable digit because of the rust) The only other number I can see is on the section where the long tube enters the pumpkin and is interupted by a roset weld. It starts with 22, then has the weld and one unreadable digit and finally ends with 03.

I'm going to go back with a wire brush and see if I can find the BOM but I'm wondering if anybody has any idea what this axle may be? The seller claims that Ford told him it was a D60 and now he thinks it may have come from a SRW F350 instead of an F250.


Sean :cool:

Sounds like a d50 to me. Did you pull the cover?

Did you pull the cover?

The axle is on a Ranger buggy he made and It's sitting in about two feet of snow so I would like to avoid having to do that if I can figure it out with the #s.

So I went back and wirebrushed the housing and tubes. Where the BOM is supposed to be is a rectangle shape rusty spot that looks like it might have had a sticker of some sort there at one time. Even after cleaning it up I could not see any numbers.

The number in the webbing is actually 9335 (not 0335)

The diff cover had a whole slew of numbers stamped in it. From top to bottom:

47707-1
349-99
REV-N
012599

The front webbing had some #s cast into it too but not on the inside where you would expect to find them. Instead they were on the very edge and they are as follows looking at the diff from the front:
left side: 47721 right side: NC 3

The passenger side knuckle had J2R62 cast into it if that means anything.

I'm still searching for the meaning of these numbers but if anybody knows for sure please post up. I have a feeling it is a lousy D50 but I want to know for sure.


Sean :cool:

What type of hubs does it have on it? A newer d50 should have unit bearing and auto hubs. What bolt pattern wheels does it have on it? I thought the 2000's would have the metric bolt pattern to them. The housings are the same as a d60. Here is a picture of a d50 if it helps.
http://www.gotparts.net/browse/light/drivetrain/Dana50.JPG

What type of hubs does it have on it? A newer d50 should have unit bearing and auto hubs. What bolt pattern wheels does it have on it? I thought the 2000's would have the metric bolt pattern to them. The housings are the same as a d60. Here is a picture of a d50 if it helps.
http://www.gotparts.net/browse/light/drivetrain/Dana50.JPG

Thanks Jarvisjeep, the axle looks pretty much the same as the one in the picture.
It has manual lockouts, unit bearings and a metric bolt pattern but the seller redrilled the hub to the standard 8 on 6.5 to fit his wheels on.

I just looked up some of the numbers on the diff cover and 47707-1 appears to be the part number for a D50 diff cover. :( Fawk!


Sean :cool:

The part number for a 2000 Ford F350 D60 diff cover is also 47707-1. :rolleyes:


Sean :cool:

How much does the guy want to sell this axle for? A d60 is not that expensive in stock form. Go out and buy one that youhave the BOM for. Somthing that has not been abused before. my .2

How much does the guy want to sell this axle for? A d60 is not that expensive in stock form. Go out and buy one that youhave the BOM for. Somthing that has not been abused before. my .2

He wanted 600 for the pair. ( The front D60 and a Sterling 10.25 with matching gears) It has new u-joints and is not leaking from anywhere. Not sure on the condition of the ball joints though.

Up here D60s, especially Ford HP units go for stupid prices. I recently saw a guy selling a Chevy D60 with 4.56 gears and a Detroit, with a matching welded 14 bolt for $3600!!!:eek: No CTMs or chromo axles either. I told him he was full of shit and someone eventually bought them for $2400!!! :shaking:


Sean :cool:

Taken from this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?referrerid=57133&t=531515

very speratic those years....should be a D50 though....heres how you tell:

measure from the mounting surface of the diff cover (on the housing) back to the very end of the housing where the pinion comes out.

edge of housing to edge of housing = 12.5" = D50


edge of housing to edge of housing = 13.5" = D60


2002 was the year of the switch, but many 02s still got the D50's....a lot of superdutys got what they werent supposed to get


How accurate is this dimension? I measured the axle and it was indeed 13.5"
Can anybody with a D50 and/or D60 (2000 and up F350) confirm this please?


Sean :cool:

since you pmd me (btw i answered), i got me up outta my chair. I 100% have a D50 in my truck (5.38s in it) and i measured 12.5" maybe up to 13" is you include the cover and arent that exact. No way you could mistake it for 13.5" though...


...sounds like somehow you got a D60, dont ask me how, in that year

since you pmd me (btw i answered), i got me up outta my chair. I 100% have a D50 in my truck (5.38s in it) and i measured 12.5" maybe up to 13" is you include the cover and arent that exact. No way you could mistake it for 13.5" though...


...sounds like somehow you got a D60, dont ask me how, in that year

Thanks Bigreen,

The measurement was indeed 13.5". I think the seller is just wrong about where the axle came from. He has admitted that they were not attached to the truck when he got it and he was told it was a D60 from a 2000 F250. The story was only half right but that's the half that counts right? :D


Sean :cool:

Here's what a Dana 50 looks like

http://www.swamp-donkey.biz/content/projects/Limited_Slip/19_16a.jpg

Taken from this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?referrerid=57133&t=531515




How accurate is this dimension? I measured the axle and it was indeed 13.5"
Can anybody with a D50 and/or D60 (2000 and up F350) confirm this please?


Sean :cool:

I can confirm the the difference in the measurement. I've been working at a Ford dealer for 11 years and that's how we do a quick check to ID instead of chasing the numbers.

Thanks guys. I was able to get both the front D60 and rear 10.25 for $400. I was set on getting the front anyway even if it was a D50 and would have made a 609 hybrid.

I still might re-tube this D60 to center the diff a little as it is going under a 4Runner. The PO tried welding his spring perches to the cast section on the short side and his welds broke. I'll be doing coils so not sure which route I'm going to take yet.


Sean :cool:

the way I read to tell if its a 50 or a 60 is to measure the pinion nut. d50 is 1 1/8(same size as a D44) and d60 is 1 5/16

steal for $400....btw, that should be a Sterling 10.5"

steal for $400....btw, that should be a Sterling 10.5"

I was told it's from an 86 Ford. 10.5s were introduced in 1999 from what I could find. In any case, it's massive and I don't know if I'm going to run it though. If I can shave a decent amount off of the bottom and can get some low gears for it I might. A 14 bolt might be cheaper in the long run if I want to lock it instead of welding the diff.


Sean :cool:

oh...so you got mismatched axles? i mean the front is 8x170mm bolt pattern and your rear is 8x6.5"


i just figured since you got the front, the rear was also 2000year model. you're right, its a 10.25.


Personally since you already have metric up front, id sell that axle and just get a 1999+ 10.5" rear (same thing) with discs and metric pattern

ground clearance on a Sterling is as good as a shaved 14 bolt. I just ground down the leading edge of the lower lip to form a ramp. It lets the diff slide over instead of hanging up.

oh...so you got mismatched axles? i mean the front is 8x170mm bolt pattern and your rear is 8x6.5"




Yes but the PO re-drilled the hub for 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern. I have a set of 16.5x10 aluminum wheels and they fit on it properly.


Sean :cool:

ground clearance on a Sterling is as good as a shaved 14 bolt. I just ground down the leading edge of the lower lip to form a ramp. It lets the diff slide over instead of hanging up.

I figured it would be close, with similar ring gear diameters but the biggest factor for me is cost. Even if I consider that I got this 10.25 for free, it might still be cheaper for me to go get a 14 bolt at the wrecking yard for $100 and re-gear it and lock it instead.There appears to be a big price difference between components for these two axles with the advantage going to the 14 bolt.


Sean :cool: