Finally got everything just about tied up on the jeep for a while. It has been a work of progress over the last 3 or so years. Here are the current general build specs:

-stretch wheelbase 7" rear 2" front (102" overall)
-4 link rear, 4 link and panhard front
-'81 waggy 44 front 4340's, ctms, full spool, Ford 5 on 5.5 outers, 5.38s, and warn hubs
-TJ 44 rear, BTF truss, Detroit, 5.38s, alloy USA shafts 5 on 5.5
-37" iroks on 17" walker evans beadlocks
-Fox 14" Coilovers front and stock ZJ rear coils rear
-BTF fuel cell

here are the rear tube flares

few more of the front end

here's the jeep at Slade 3 years ago :flipoff2:

ummmmm

http://people.clemson.edu/~dminton/wtf.jpg

maybe in the pic, but not as we speak :flipoff2:

better pic of the front axle winch

Looks good. I like your front bumper. Did you build that yourself?

Looks good. I like your front bumper. Did you build that yourself?

it is a currie bumper, but I capped the pointy ends off and added the tube work. Design was inspired by schmo's (schmozilla)

Looks great i like the tube flares :smokin:

Awesome

Can i get more pics of the 4 link front and rear about to stretch mine 7 inches and like what you have done.

Bling bling dude... You may want to see if you can make that upper a bit longer (pinion travel)

Looks good. You still using the stock steering box in its original location? If so, did you have to move the panhard frame mount to get the 2" out of the front?

Bling bling dude... You may want to see if you can make that upper a bit longer (pinion travel)

Yea, I'm planning on bringing them back further but I didn't want to mess with the exhaust yet. School is about to start kicking my ass so Ill try to get it done before Moab in March

Looks good. You still using the stock steering box in its original location? If so, did you have to move the panhard frame mount to get the 2" out of the front?

Steering box is in stock location. Ill snap some more pics this afternoon. I BARELY got by with the 2" front stretch, the tie rod is actually directly underneath the waggy pitman arm and stops at full bump about 3/4 inch away.

Yea, I'm planning on bringing them back further but I didn't want to mess with the exhaust yet. School is about to start kicking my ass so Ill try to get it done before Moab in March



Steering box is in stock location. Ill snap some more pics this afternoon. I BARELY got by with the 2" front stretch, the tie rod is actually directly underneath the waggy pitman arm and stops at full bump about 3/4 inch away.


So, all you did to get the 2" out of the front was to move your panhard frame mount and get a waggy pitman arm?

So, all you did to get the 2" out of the front was to move your panhard frame mount and get a waggy pitman arm?

I threaded the RE lower arms out so about 1" of threads were still threaded, then sleeved over the exposed threads to keep from bending. I rebuilt both ends of the panhard mount to get it out of the way of everything. It is moved up on the axle and up on the frame. I had to use a waggy pitman arm to get the travel out of the longer knuckles on the 44. here are a bunch more pics that should show how everything went together.

and more...

I still need to connect the tube flare to the CO hoop, make inner fender wells, re-do the front upper links and do a passenger side bumpstop on the front, but everything else is about finished up.

heres how it sits. Ground to bottom of door sill is 32" for reference

are you getting full stroke out of the 14"s? more or less?
Thanks

actually getting 13.5 out of them because they have a 1/2 inch bumpstop on the shaft to prevent over-compressing it. I set the bumpstops on the axle so about 1" of shaft is showing at full flex bump (so I am actually using 12.5" of shock). I can not use any more, however, because the front driveshaft is very close to bottoming the cv out anyway.

More pics, more info!! I love the stance, those front fenders are nice too...What material did you use for an inner fender?

More pics, more info!! I love the stance, those front fenders are nice too...What material did you use for an inner fender?


let me know what you want pics of and Ill snap some...those are about all I have right now. What you see for an 'inner fender' in the pic is all stock fender. I cut everything off that wasnt 'vertical'. I need to finish filling it in with something and brace the coilover hoops to the tube fender

Looks great! A lot of great thoughts! :beer:

nice idea on the half cab

I like the shortbed p/u look. Very nice. Front fenders look good also. Only problem now is,it looks like you can fit some bigger meats.

Only problem now is,it looks like you can fit some bigger meats.

Next step is prolly 60s and either 39 or 42 iroks, but thatll be down the road seeing as my funds are currently very low

It looks pretty sweet so far. I'd like to go a similar route soon.

Forgot to ask.. got any more pics of the rear spring mounts on the frame and pics of the fuel cell mounting?

Looks great!

heres how it sits. Ground to bottom of door sill is 32" for referencehttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=286477&stc=1&d=1170800740

Very nice :smokin: Those tube fenders are sweet! Good size on the rear fender opening without being a full comp cut, helps keep the po-po off your back.

What tube size and wall thickness did you use for the fenders? 1.5" or 1.75"? They look sweet!!

tube fenders are 1.5 .120 and everything else (bumper, CO hoops, most of the cage and engine bar) are 1.75 .120.

the front fenders and hood cut are my favorite, i dig it.

How are you keeping the hood locked down? I noticed something behind the headlight that isn't normally there...Makes me wonder if you're running the stock latches but upside down and inside the hood....or did I just answer my own question.

I'm diggin' the tube work. Badass.:smokin:

the front fenders and hood cut are my favorite, i dig it.

thanks for the tube :smokin:


How are you keeping the hood locked down? I noticed something behind the headlight that isn't normally there...Makes me wonder if you're running the stock latches but upside down and inside the hood....or did I just answer my own question.

I'm diggin' the tube work. Badass.:smokin:

right on. thanks

The front fender and hood line look awesome. I might have to copy that.

Looks good man!

The front fender and hood line look awesome. I might have to copy that.

Then there will be at least 3 of them out there, although mine is a CJ, plans are in the works.

Very NICE build, Love the way it looks.

Carl

thanks guys, although I do have to admit...I got the main idea for the hood cut from the BTF project viper TJ (just wish I had some one tons and 42 iroks now)

I'm really digging the fenders, great job.

little more bling for the TJ, should have it in end of March, then building a front 60. (and yes, the Walkers will be for sale very soon :( ).
I built the truss out of 3/16 2x2 and 2x5, used a BTF diff ring and built a cover for it tied into the truss. I just need some brackets, weld everything up and it will be ready to bolt in. Gonna run the H2 wheels until I can afford some more walkers this summer, I love them too much not to run. Also gonna step up to some 39.5 iroks when the front 60 is in, which should be by late April

39.5's by April eh? Guess then i'll just be a little guy :p

just talk schmo into getting some 42s and get his reds :D

haha....yeah that'd be nice, but i still got plently of miles of wheeling left on the Reds i've got and other mods to attend to before replacing somthing that ain't broke.

So did you get those brackets? It looks like it.
Cool build

So did you get those brackets? It looks like it.
Cool build

yea man, got em today thanks :smokin:

Still need 4 brackets from ruffstuff then itll be done

little more bling for the TJ, should have it in end of March, then building a front 60. (and yes, the Walkers will be for sale very soon :( ).

Can I go ahead and call dibs on the walkers? :D

if you want 5 on 5.5s, sure thing

ok ready for a stupid question?

what is the winch on the front axle for?

ok ready for a stupid question?

what is the winch on the front axle for?


to suck the front end down on steep climbs, duh :flipoff2:

to suck the front end down on steep climbs, duh :flipoff2:

KIRBY!!!

to suck the front end down on steep climbs, duh :flipoff2:


Gonna get that frontend an inch lower in the front so in can be riding on the bumps eh?

hey i said it was a stupid question...

im new to the whole hard core off road rig design... up untill now the biggest thing i did was a lift, everything else was just restoration... this is soon to change

haha...sorry Chuckie, I was giving Kirby a hard time, not you.

haha its cool... im learnin damnit!

this thing is sick. Love the low stance, nice hood chop :smokin:

How is the Spool Up front?

dont really mind it here on the east coast. I shall find out in 2 weeks how I like it in Moab though...hopefully it wont be too bad

dont really mind it here on the east coast. I shall find out in 2 weeks how I like it in Moab though...hopefully it wont be too bad

The amount you like it will be directly proportional to the number of hub fuses you blow :flipoff2: This time nine days from now, we will be in Moab! :grinpimp:

The amount you like it will be directly proportional to the number of hub fuses you blow :flipoff2: This time nine days from now, we will be in Moab! :grinpimp:

thats why i have 2 spare lockouts and plenty of fuses ready to go.

speaking of 9 days, you better get your shit together jay, only 1 more weekend of work left! we better not be finishing your jeep sunday morning in moab :D

Alot like mine... Although I moved my gear box up a couple of inches and leveled it out to make that 2" stretch a lot easier...

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/rioharbour/3-25-06068.jpg

im going to move mine forward in a few weeks when i build the front 60

im going to move mine forward in a few weeks when i build the front 60

Cool, you will like it... :smokin:

Ok your done with exams. I demand an update.

yea updates?

lets see it now

yes please!

alright, ill post some front pics now, i should have the tires on this week and will post some pics when I do

Wheelbase is 103 now. I also moved the steering box forward and rotated it. Ill get some pics of that later.

nice build man

Looks good man. All this done in that little ass shed? Thats impressive.

Looks good man. All this done in that little ass shed? Thats impressive.


its a single car garage...im in college, and lucky to have it

methinks you may want to brace that truss onto the top of the chunk, or you may be redoing like schmo, especially with that 3 link...gonna be ready to wheel here soon?

methinks you may want to brace that truss onto the top of the chunk, or you may be redoing like schmo, especially with that 3 link...gonna be ready to wheel here soon?

im the truss is welded to the chunk already, and im going to brace it even more. I ordered tires today, just have to sell the rear 44 and gear/lock them

should be ready in 2 weeks

Looks good. You runnin rocs again? What you doing about rims? I know those WE cant fit on your 60s.

Looks good. You runnin rocs again? What you doing about rims? I know those WE cant fit on your 60s.

just orderd 39.5 bias iroks, i am running h2 wheels until i can afford another set of walkers

TIRES!!!!!!

and hooked the hydro assist back up...

:flipoff2: dang kirby...that thing looks great, let me know next time you are heading out to gulches.

very nice man, looks great. I love the h2 wheels.

:flipoff2: dang kirby...that thing looks great, let me know next time you are heading out to gulches.


dunno if i'll be back, tellico is only another 45 mins, and so is morris mountain. they have a lot more rocks :flipoff2:

What kind of rear brakes did you use and did you make your own bracket

sweet build man...lovin the lines for the fenders and the cage. def want to copy the cage design if you don't mind:D

Glad its finally done....Looks a little ass high though. You gonna drag that thing back out here this summer so we can run Billings and 21rd?

What kind of rear brakes did you use and did you make your own bracket


rears are Chevy 3/4 ton front calipers/rotors and i welded caliper mounts to the axle.

Glad its finally done....Looks a little ass high though. You gonna drag that thing back out here this summer so we can run Billings and 21rd?

Ass is about an inch higher than the front, but i think it looks good that way personally. I think I am going to leave it at the height it is at right now, it actually looks higher than it is because of the fender cuts. Suspension is about 5 to 6 inches over stock, which isnt bad for 40 inch tires. My belly skid is right at 23 inches in the middle. The funds arent looking too great for an out west trip right now, maybe in a year or so

We're going to River Rock next weekend. Should be Porkchops debute, you gonna make it, or you still running open diffs?

We're going to River Rock next weekend. Should be Porkchops debute, you gonna make it, or you still running open diffs?

front housing is completely empty, and the rear is 4.56 and open. I am going home for a week so I wont be here

Thing looks good kirby. Have you driven it around much?

its my daily driver :smokin:

Sweet. Anyone ever piss you off just crawl over them.

Looks good. What rear springs are you running now and what is your height to the top of the cage? I am putting 1 tons under my TJ with 39.5's and trying to keep it under 7' so I can still park it in my garage.

Looks good. What rear springs are you running now and what is your height to the top of the cage? I am putting 1 tons under my TJ with 39.5's and trying to keep it under 7' so I can still park it in my garage.

I am running front XJ springs in the rear, but it lifts it a little more having the new coil buckets towards the rear and about 2-3 inches below the normal mounting point on the frame. I havent measured yet, but It does fit in my garage and all of the parking garages, which all have under 7' clearance

I am running front XJ springs in the rear, but it lifts it a little more having the new coil buckets towards the rear and about 2-3 inches below the normal mounting point on the frame. I havent measured yet, but It does fit in my garage and all of the parking garages, which all have under 7' clearance

Good to know. That is what I am shooting for and I am going to put my stock front TJ springs under mine and see what the height is but I am afraid it is going to be to soft. I am moving my rear axle back about 10" though.

my tj front coils in the rear were too soft, the xjs are much better

i didnt read, i just looked at pictures....

plans to move the tie rod up?

kinda sucks to have low steering... at least my tie rod didnt like it much...

damn it didnt takeyou very long to get rid of the 44s since moab. looking great man.

i didnt read, i just looked at pictures....

plans to move the tie rod up?

kinda sucks to have low steering... at least my tie rod didnt like it much...



Actually im putting the tie rod behind the axle on the histeer arms, just waiting on some tube to arrive.

I also cut the front crossmember out and moved the steering box up and forward, I will try to post some pics of that soon.

Kirby, am really digging the setup. Any pics form the rear? I am doing some fendeer stuff in the back, and like the way you setup yours. I was thinking of tying mine to the rockers and rear bumper, but totally dig the way you have it.

Gui

hey its off topic but what hydro ram are you using. im guessing it is the same one from the 44

yup, same one..i have a PSC pump and ram with a redneck ram box

Hey man any updates? What gears and lockers you running? I think i saw a pic of your jeep from tellico can i see a pic of how you got the spare mounted. Looks good

Hey man any updates? What gears and lockers you running? I think i saw a pic of your jeep from tellico can i see a pic of how you got the spare mounted. Looks good

I have 5.38s with a full spool up front and a locrite rear. Chromo shafts in the rear and chromo front outers.

Where did you see a pic of me from tellico? I did not take any...

The spare was just strapped to the back of the cage for the trip, i usually dont run one on the trail but I didnt want to leave it in the truck on such a busy weekend in case it got stolen.

Just measured compared to a stock tj, it is sitting at 4" suspension lift, and a 20.5" belly height. here are some better pics of the front steering setup and frame tie-ins

...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/stjjames/verynice.gif

Damn thing looks good. I got a question though, Why run a spool up front and a lockright in the rear? Why not the other way around?

Did you tack on your brackets that straddle the frame rail or do you think bolting that sub frame is sufficient?

Damn thing looks good. I got a question though, Why run a spool up front and a lockright in the rear? Why not the other way around?


daily driver so the rear spool could drive him nuts when he does move it from parking space to parking space:flipoff2:, ask me how i know, i run a spooled 44:grinpimp:

kirby it looks good, hit me up next time ya'll do tellico, we were going up this last weekend for mem. day but figured the crowds would be crazy

what arms are you using to get the tie rod behind the axle?


Any specs on the tie rod? I am in the process of doing this as well.

spool front works way better than a spool rear...on the trail and the street.

The RE skid has held up just fine for 2 years, and when considering it has 6 - 1/2 inch bolts on the bottom of the frame as well as 6 more sleeved through the sides, i dont think it's goin anywhere

The arms are Harsh Terrain...they are a reasonable price, and it only cost me $10 more to do reverse histeer than standard histeer

the tie rod, draglink and trac bar are all 1.5 .250 DOM with tube inserts and 3/4 5/8 heims...a very simple and cost effective setup that was easy to make. The tie rod clears the HP 60 chunk by the thickness of a piece of paper when turned full lock.

What springs are you running up front and what's the distance between the retainers at ride height?

What springs are you running up front and what's the distance between the retainers at ride height?

they are hypercoil 12" 250 over 14" 350 springs. I havent measured the distance, but when the top retainer is at the top (with a tender coil and triple rate slider) I have 4" of uptravel on the shock

went to tellico the other day...here are some pics

more...

Those 39.5's made a big difference in the looks of your rig. I looks alot like mine except blue and actually on the trail. :(

Nice action shots! They really show the advantage of a low COG

nice build and a sweet looking jeep.

what rocker guards do you have?

what rocker guards do you have?


they are LOD rockers with no side steps i bought a long time ago, but I added some 2x2 box to the sides for a step/more protection

I am building up a 231/300 doubler case and decided it is time to build a new skid and get rid of the RE skid...but this means building new frame mounts as well. The skid will be even with the frame rails, and hang down 3/4 inch in the middle (note the crossmember bend). I will be adding a lot more bracing to for the skid as well. Here is where I am now:

couple more pics...

flux core makes the baby jesus cry

remember when you bought that welder it was just for bumpers:laughing:

and its been rolled more than your jeep:flipoff2:

How are the XJ coils and coilovers as far as stability on the off cambers?

cant wait to see how ya do the doubler

How are the XJ coils and coilovers as far as stability on the off cambers?

Its stable as hell, and suspension is also very balanced even with no sway bars, but I think the fact it is 4" up and on full widths helps a lot too

cant wait to see how ya do the doubler


Yea me too, I will be cutting a good but of the floor out Im sure. I just finished the crossmember and rear suspension, took it for a test drive...works just fine aside from the exhaust dumping out 3 feet past the manifold. I also drilled 3 holes in the tabs for the tranny mount so I can adjust the height is need be.Now I just have to get the doubler in and make a skid plate

last 2:

god forbid you ever have to drop your tranny...get out the cutting wheels :flipoff2:

itll come out without cutting wheels, or any cutting device for that matter :p

unbolt tcase, pull off

unbolt tranny, pull back until splines come apart

pull forward and down

drink beer

do whatever it is you need to pull the tranny for

:flipoff2:

is it just me or does this look like a skateboard?

:D

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=313641&stc=1&d=1183698789

Kirby,
Do you have any larger pics of your crossmember set up? Can I get a few?

I already shrunk the ones I have to post here, but I could snap some more today and email them to you

that would be great. I think I can get the STaK up farther with your design.

kd4yor@hotmail.com

Pat

How's that doubler goin?

still looking for a cheap 231...cant use mine because I have to drive the jeep every day :shaking:

I rebuilt the d300 and put the 32 spline kit on the rear...also started working on my shift cables for it.

what kit are you using?

ddmachine's crawlbox

...that secure the clocking ring to the dana 300.
I just finished installing the same kit in my YJ, and the sumbitch is leaking like a sieve.
I haven't taken it apart yet, but I am FAIRLY certain the bolts were a touch too long, and bottomed out in the dana 300, allowing a TINY space between the clocking ring and the t-case.

I was planning on the cable shifted route, but stayed with a mechanical linkage with small heims. It shifts VERY well, and only cost ~60 bucks.

Heres some pics of my set up. (i will try to get the shifter pics up tonight.)



http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/the_freeak/IMG_1918.jpg

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p255/the_freeak/IMG_1917.jpg

HOLLY RUST BATMAN

did that come with the build or was it extra?

:laughing: It looks worse than it is...well...maybe not.

What the hell: I only have $1500 in the whole thing including the doubler.

Chris.


Sorry to hijack the thread Kirby...

Now we take you back to your regularly scheduled programming.

well the 231/300 is in

My AA 32 spline rear output came with the wrong rear seal, so I had to go digging through every seal at advance until i found one that worked. Still need to re-do the floor, build the cable shifters, lengthen the front driveshaft, mount the rear of the case to the crossmember with another bushing and plate the bottom as a skid. I hope to have most of that done by this weekend

when you get tired of the h2's I want them.
________
HOMEMADE VAPORGENIE (http://www.vaporizers.net/)

you are not the first person to tell me that. I like them, but found one problem...the valve stems stick out kinda far and I ripped one off this weekend at the bottom of slickrock. Had to screw what was left of the valve stem into the threaded part of an RTV top and jam it in the hole and fill it up to get back to camp that night

I got ya, I bought a set of bead locks with new 39 irocks at a great deal and just assumed they were 17's but I got home and realized they were 16's! It works for now but I want some krawlers for my next tires.
________
The Sanctuary of Truth (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

I was out "spectating" and took a few photos of his new console he has in. Looks pretty good.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1126/1076183149_8304e42816.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1392/1077034988_769562ecdd.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1402/1077024308_4c8f66f6e6.jpg

thanks max. I still have to plate a couple holes not seen in the pics, and herculine the new floor/console but it turned out nice

Looks good but that pinion would tear my hand up, I would think.

ive had it on there for a long time, i ground all the edges down and threw a coat of clear on it, so its not sharp at all

Looks good kirby. Whats your crawl ratio now?

somewhere around 50ft per minute

somewhere around 50ft per minute


:flipoff2:

thats about right.

4.0 x 2.72 x 2.6 x 5.38 = 152

if the motor idles at 750 rpms, the tire turns over about 5 times in one minute, and the rolling radius of a 39.5 is about 10 feet so thats about 50 feet per minute at idle.

I also figured out low low in second tranny gear is identical to a single speed transfer case in with a 4:1 in first gear

All of this bullshit translates into a crawl ratio of SLOW AS FUCK

:flipoff2:

thats about right.

4.0 x 2.72 x 2.6 x 5.38 = 152

if the motor idles at 750 rpms, the tire turns over about 5 times in one minute, and the rolling radius of a 39.5 is about 10 feet so thats about 50 feet per minute at idle.

I also figured out low low in second tranny gear is identical to a single speed transfer case in with a 4:1 in first gear

All of this bullshit translates into a crawl ratio of SLOW AS FUCK



I always wondered if i went the doubler route if i would be able to get the gear ratios that i was used to easily or would it have to be in some weird combination of gears when i wanted my trusty 4:1 for crawling.

Multiple speed transfer cases are the shit!

Also i like the break down on your tech...newbs skip to the end:flipoff2:

I also figured out low low in second tranny gear is identical to a single speed transfer case in with a 4:1 in first gear

All of this bullshit translates into a crawl ratio of SLOW AS FUCK


Aren't you glad I convinced you that a doubler wasn't a bad idea? :flipoff2:

your jeep is looking good man. i finally put your axle under my cherokee today and it looks good.ill post up a pic or two

did a little final touch on the console, added a shift "boot" for the triple sticks. I made it out of muffler tubing. All I need not is some herculiner and I will be done.

Nice touch, especially with the shifters. :smokin:

really diggin the center console :smokin: i'm in the middle of mine n u gave me a great idea. thanks man:D

Kirby, I parked next to your jeep today (Green jeep) and i have to say that your jeep is one of the best looking jeeps i have seen. That think was sick in person!

f-ckin sweet!

here are some pics of the cherokee finally finished.......for now at least.




http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r249/Grason88/img_0081.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r249/Grason88/img_0082.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r249/Grason88/img_0083.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r249/Grason88/img_0097.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r249/Grason88/img_0099.jpg


that 44 held up GREAT, even with the spool i had no real trouble steering. thanks again man.:D

I like your choice in wheels. Looks good. :)

looks good man, i almost miss that axle in a way...lots of memories with it.


I finally got the console and everything finished, it looks real good with the fresh coat of bedliner on it. Ill snap some pics this afternoon

broke my second rear yukon shaft...I need to do something about this

Slinky is there anyway I can see how you hooked up the shifters?

Im assuming they are cable shifted, the 231 and the 300, but It would be interesting to see how you pulled it all off.

Are you running stock shafts and u-joints in the front 60?

front 60 are stock joints, chromo 30 spline outers and stock hubs, i have a set of superwinch hubs for spares, as well as the stock shafts and joints since I replaced them. So far no trouble out of the front end and Ive been beatin on it pretty hard

By the way, wheeling with the new t-case(s) is ridiculous. The gearing choices and the ability to crawl as slow as possible is very nice. I did not think I would ever use low low 1st and it be reasonable, but I found a time or to it was nice to have.

The shifters are a combo of cable/ 3/4 bolt, bronze flanges bushings and some DOM. The were reasonable priced to make, effective and have almost no play in them.

here are pics of the shifters

here are a couple more of the rear part of the floor I had to re-do

broke my second rear yukon shaft...I need to do something about this


Quit screwing around with 30 spline shafts :confused: Ask yourself this: schmo is running the same yukons, except 35 spline, and on tires that lay down alot more traction than yours, and lets be honest, he drives like, well, schmo, and hasn't had any problems. Think its time to get real shafts yet?

im trying to figure out what to do..I cant bore the spindles on my 60 because it is an earlier model, so Im considering building a new rear and swapping my brakes and cover over

just get a 70 so you dont have to bore anything if you are going to swap rear ends, if you can't find a 70 or 70U in clemson there are enough junkyards up here in charlotte you could probably find one pretty quick.

hes building a 14bolt

yep, already ordered my gears/detroit and install kit

so Im considering building a new rear and swapping my brakes and cover over

How are you going to swap your cover over if you are going with a 14 bolt?

i was going to build another 60, but now im going to sell the whole thing and build a 14b

i was going to build another 60, but now im going to sell the whole thing and build a 14b

Gotcha.....good choice. ;)

im trying to figure out what to do..I cant bore the spindles on my 60 because it is an earlier model, so Im considering building a new rear and swapping my brakes and cover over

what year is your rear housing? sure you cant bore em out?

yup his spindles are damn near paper thin as is.

72 chevy c-20

I tied up a few ends today...limit straps (1 rear 2 front), skid plate and longer trac bar/new frame mount. The trac bar is now the same length at the draglink (35.5 inches)

What is stopping you from dropping coils in the rear since you shocks are mounted like /\ and I am sure that allows enough droop to drop a coil? I had to end up using limit straps on both sides of my rear axles so my shocks would not be taking the weight of the axle at full droop....

my rear shocks are not mounted like that any more...i put them on top of the axle at the end of the housing, and 2 tabs on the outside of the arch on the frame rail. It still flexes plenty and it is crazy stable now. It made a lot of difference outboarding the shocks.

whats the story on that awsome fuckin geo in the back ground

my rear shocks are not mounted like that any more...i put them on top of the axle at the end of the housing, and 2 tabs on the outside of the arch on the frame rail. It still flexes plenty and it is crazy stable now. It made a lot of difference outboarding the shocks.

Oh ok. I outboarded mine the first time around and it does help with keeping it stable. I am guessing you are using the shocks as your limiting straps though?

whats the story on that awsome fuckin geo in the back ground

I dont know...some fag in my apt complex drives it around :flipoff2:

Tweba...the shocks are the limiters in the rear, I also have the coils retained top and bottom

got the brackets made for the 14 bolt.

ghey.

what a fag

I did a little cleaning and painting this weekend. Here is a teaser shot, thanks Max for the pic

That looks fuckin sick, nice work. I just popped into the last page and saw that pic, now I have to go back and read the rest of the thread.

Looks pimpin. Makes my pants tight :grinpimp: Gotta love the fenders.

Kirby it is looking good. The paint makes those wheels stand out. Did you sell that rear 60 yet?

Hunter

thanks, the 60 is still for sale

nice color. i've been debating olive drab and black, or all blue with a white palmetto on the hood for my buggy's paint job. I also considered making a 2d cad drawing of a palmetto tree and moon and having someone water jet or laser cut one and welding it to my hood. i got lost and moved to georgia :shaking:


those painted H2's are schweet.

paul

i like your cage/half top combo, who makes them?

they are made by rockcrusher, it is called a "cab top". I only paid $140 for it new...but its almost time for a new one before winter as mine is ripped.

Hey Kirby did your jeep ever make in in Crawl mag? I havent seen your jeep in a while.

If that ghey POS makes it in Crawlmag, Im canceling my subscription.:flipoff2:

not yet...

How does the quality of your top compare to bestop? That is pretty damn cheap and ive been looking fora nice halftop for awhile.

mine has held up for 2 years. Not quite bestop quality but great bang for the buck

I guess for so damn cheap who cares. Ive spent way to much money on 2 soft tops and im tired of going the $$$ route when i hardly ever drive it anymore.

Jeep looks good. Like the fresh paint.

Yeah my Bestop's a PIECE, no way I'm springing for another one of those... Anyway VERY nice Tubeage, especially the front; Mean as hell. This is pretty much what I'm aiming for save some larger tires since theres so much mud down here, but I'd be very happy if it ended up as nice as this. Good work.

I did a little cleaning and painting this weekend. Here is a teaser shot, thanks Max for the pic

Looks sharp as hell man, those H2's look good painted. Got any details or close up shots of what you used on the flat part of your fenders? I plan on doing the Durham hood and lining a piece of 1.5" along the along the outline of it. I have been kicking around ideas of what to use for the flat piece that bolts to the rockers...

Looks sharp as hell man, those H2's look good painted. Got any details or close up shots of what you used on the flat part of your fenders? I plan on doing the Durham hood and lining a piece of 1.5" along the along the outline of it. I have been kicking around ideas of what to use for the flat piece that bolts to the rockers...

the sheet metal that comes off of the tub behind the fender is stock. The tube comes down and it welded directly to the rocker, no bolts. The rear corner guards are welded all the way down the side to the front tube fenders as one big piece.

Subscribed, for your tranny mount design (plus all the other schweet ideas). How are your motor and tranny mounts holding up together with all the added torque of the doubler? Doing the same setup in a YJ this winter.

Subscribed, for your tranny mount design (plus all the other schweet ideas). How are your motor and tranny mounts holding up together with all the added torque of the doubler? Doing the same setup in a YJ this winter.

They are holding up just fine. I also have a t-case mount on the d300 to help support the extra weight back there. Being on the east coast, I really dont use the doubler extremely often, but its nice to have when I need it

So how is the rid without a front sway bar? Just wondering becuase I am debating if I am going to hook up my front antirock or not with the new coilover mounted far out like yours.

Very cool triple stick setup

So how is the rid without a front sway bar? Just wondering becuase I am debating if I am going to hook up my front antirock or not with the new coilover mounted far out like yours.


The combination of the coilovers out on the axle, the rear shocks outboarded, only 3-4" of lift and high roll centers, It is actually very stable, even on the street. I used to have an antirock and it did not do much for me on the street anyway.

It's a good thing you put in that 14 bolt. I heard you and your buddies got spanked by my friend in his beater ass XJ worth about -$4000 :laughing: on helipad and lower 2. Of course this was after you guys took the opportunity to make fun of his shit and point out all the booty fab like he didn't know about it already.

Anyhow, how does it feel to break a shaft on helipad after it gets walked by a rig worth about 1/10 of yours, especially after you've made fun of it? In case it's slipped your mind by now here's a video of him on 2.
http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/?action=view&current=tellicosept22nd07m005.flv
That was right after you guys heckled him. :laughing: I believe he offered to sell it to you after he made it to the top but there were no takers :confused:

Haha, I wish my rig was running so I could out and do some heckling! :)

Great build Kirby!

It's a good thing you put in that 14 bolt. I heard you and your buddies got spanked by my friend in his beater ass XJ worth about -$4000 :laughing: on helipad and lower 2. Of course this was after you guys took the opportunity to make fun of his shit and point out all the booty fab like he didn't know about it already.

Anyhow, how does it feel to break a shaft on helipad after it gets walked by a rig worth about 1/10 of yours, especially after you've made fun of it? In case it's slipped your mind by now here's a video of him on 2.
http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/?action=view&current=tellicosept22nd07m005.flv
That was right after you guys heckled him. :laughing: I believe he offered to sell it to you after he made it to the top but there were no takers :confused:



1. What the hell are you talking about? I have never broken a shaft on helicopter pad. In fact I did not even spin a tire on it that day as it was so dry. A guy I was with broke a rear 60 shaft on it that day, not me.

2. I never made fun or said anything bad about that xj. I do remember saying something about how awesome it was for being such a budget rig and performing so well...

3. I will not speak for the guys I was with that day, as I did not hear them do any "heckling" but that does not mean they didn't.
Get your facts straight before you open your mouth

4. stfu :flipoff2:

Bah, it was a bunch of TJs, who can tell the difference :flipoff2: The one that broke was orange. I'm not going to argue with ya though, your group basically made dicks of themselves and I wanted to point it out because I thought it was pretty uncool.

no hard feelings, just don't point fingers if you don't know what really happened.

Not sure if I missed it but what WB are you sitting at now, How far forward did you push the front and how far the rear. i am planning a stretch right now but I want to keep fenders in the rear. ie. no comp cut

rear is back 7" and front is 3.5...totaling 104". The 39.5's are even with the stock cross-member in the back. I moved my steering box forward and rotated it in the front as well to clear the diff

Looks sick, I like it. I was in clemson yesterday and kept my eye out for you or schmo but I was dissapointed.
________
VAPE INFO (http://johan-luis.tumblr.com/)

damn,. that jeep is kewl.:eek:

I didnt notice you said, but what WMS are you at?

He running a 14 bolt rear and ford HP 60 front, so the WMS to WMS should be 67 in the rear and 69 in the front.

Bah, it was a bunch of TJs, who can tell the difference :flipoff2: The one that broke was orange. I'm not going to argue with ya though, your group basically made dicks of themselves and I wanted to point it out because I thought it was pretty uncool.

Last time i checked this was a build thread, and a bad ass one at that...so in less you have something technical to add....you can feel free to fawk a blender:flipoff2:.

P.M him if your really that butthurt.

Kirby the jeeps looking sweet, and the h2's are :grinpimp: painted.

Wheres a good place to source h2s? Im having trouble finding a set, or did you just get lucky?

He should be 69.25" up front and 67" in the rear.

Keep the drama out of this wicked build. Good job kirby!

Wheres a good place to source h2s? Im having trouble finding a set, or did you just get lucky?[/QUOTE]


there are always a ton of h2 wheels on ebay... got mine for 150$.. try there

fawkin awesome build!:smokin:

Check for takoffs at your local Hummer dealer

front is 69.25, rear is 67 plus 1.5" spacers on each side to clear the new air shocks. I had to notch the frame as well. They are fox 2.0 14" shocks.

Looking great!

You really have me thinking about painting the H2's on my DD truck now.

It's nice! I like! Would you happen to have any info on your 231/300 setup? and perhaps some pics? Please sir?

Thanks guys. there is a lot of info on the doubler here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=451754&highlight=box4rocks

I used auto trans cable shifters on mine and made the shifters for it out of DOM and brass bushings. I believe I put some pics a couple pages back in this thread

Today I remade my upper CO mounts about 2" higher (for more uptravel at the wheel wells). The front sits with 9" between the tire and tube fender, and rear has about 8" between tire and tube fender, belly is now at 22".

I also tied both histeer arms into the knuckles better so I dont sheer the 4 histeer bolts as I have seen many people do. Driver side is 1/2" plate welded to the arm and bolted through the knuckle, and the Passenger side is a bolt welded inside a tube which connects to the draglink bolt.

Not particularly crazy about that passenger side knucle thing you got going on there Kirby.

and what would you have done different, clayton? :flipoff2:

Ran keyed knuckles. :flipoff2:

Don't know why, but I just don't like it. Like everything else though, just not that.

well my knuckles came with my axle, and I wasnt going to drop a lot of coin on knuckles and histeer arms when I could just as easily go the free route and make the histeer arms nearly unbreakable. If you come up with any other design other than what I did that doesnt cost me anything, let me know.

I can't imagine the hole you drilled through the tie rod holes in the knuckles being a tolerance fit to the pieces you've added like the high steer arms are to the knuckles. That means the arms could still theoretically work their way loose and the studs can sheer. What you have done might help but I wouldn't put too much confidence in them being unbreakable.

What I've never understood is why no one manufactures high steer arms that have a hole that lines up with the hole in the knuckle so you could run a bolt through each with a sleeve connecting them. I know you would have to make one for Ford and one for Chevy and Dodge but I can't believe they wouldn't sell. That would go a long way in preventing studs from sheering without expensive aftermarket knuckles.

Ill put money on those histeer bolts not breaking. I check the torque on them before and after every trail run, plus I used plenty of red loctite and lock washers so I do not see them breaking any time soon.

Ill put money on those histeer bolts not breaking. I check the torque on them before and after every trail run, plus I used plenty of red loctite and lock washers so I do not see them breaking any time soon.

Kirby, in my experience, the biggest failure on the bolts is a result of them working loose, i snapped 3 different sets of ARP studs because they managed to work loose. At first i used to check em every run, the one time i didn't they snapped, then i started using locktight, that worked great, but again i got lazy and didn't check it after a few runs because it wasn't working loose.

However, the greater concern in my opinion is the strength of the ford knuckle, not the hi steer arm bolts working loose. Putting the leverage on top of the knuckles seems to break most ford knuckles after 1 season of hard wheeling. I too have some ford knuckles and have been toying welding a plate from the top of the knuckle to the bottom, similar to what i saw done on a build there with a patriot blue TJ on 42's. Seems like that would help, but i think the real solution is new aftermarket knuckles.

I decided to run my coilovers out more and go through the hood. I also got some weld on beadlocks from offroadoverstock.com, I am very pleased at how everything turned out

Looking good man!

Did you put the beadlocks on your H2's or did you get some cheap steelies for the beadlock rings? I know your jeep balanced out well with the H2's and Iroks before so let me know how it is with the weld on beadlocks.....

Did you put the beadlocks on your H2's or did you get some cheap steelies for the beadlock rings? I know your jeep balanced out well with the H2's and Iroks before so let me know how it is with the weld on beadlocks.....

They are steelies from Summit, not sure whether Im going to sell the h2s yet, I may try to find a set of street tires for them. As for the weld ons, they balance out just the same as the H2s.

Jeez Kirby, other than to have totally, awesome, sweet, fantastically cool hoops coming out of the hood why would you mount your CO's to your knuckles like that!? Just testing the limits of those Ford knuckles and trying to see which will fail first: highsteer studs/knuckle/kingpin? Your axle mounts worked fine, why screw with them and go complicating an already complex steering system? Those sweet hoops in the hood aren't going to look very cool with your knuckle or high steer arm broken off and lying on the trail, or worse, the road. And how much is that going to suck when your wearing kingpins 3x as fast. There's a saying, "Just cause you CAN do somthing doesn't mean you SHOULD." Sure, what you've got there works, but it sure isn't optimal, or neccessary. :shaking:

This is an awesome build. Prob my fav on pbb. But I was wondering the same thing.

Id like an explanation of how the COs mounted on the kingpins will wear them out 3x faster, and how it puts any more stress on the knuckles than mounting them to the axle. The only weight the kingpins are now supporting is the weight of the axle. I do not feel I am going to sheer histeer bolts with them braced the way I have it. With the COs mounted to the kingpin, the weight transfer from the jeep's sprung weight is transferred directly through the knuckle, and not through the inner C, kingpins and outer knuckle/spindle. And about the complicated steering thing, how is it complicated? The drag link connects to a double histeer arm and the tie rod is behind the axle. How much more simple could I get it? I appreciate everyone's concerns, but I feel this setup will work fine for me.

Id like an explanation of how the COs mounted on the kingpins will wear them out 3x faster, and how it puts any more stress on the knuckles than mounting them to the axle. The only weight the kingpins are now supporting is the weight of the axle. I do not feel I am going to sheer histeer bolts with them braced the way I have it. With the COs mounted to the kingpin, the weight transfer from the jeep's sprung weight is transferred directly through the knuckle, and not through the inner C, kingpins and outer knuckle/spindle. And about the complicated steering thing, how is it complicated? The drag link connects to a double histeer arm and the tie rod is behind the axle. How much more simple could I get it? I appreciate everyone's concerns, but I feel this setup will work fine for me.

Ok, heres the explanation: The load that the CO is transfering is not entirely directed in line with the steering arm studs, some of it is in shear, especially during say...cornering. Also, the bracket that is actually welded to the steering arm imparts a torque load as well as the shear load. (this is all covered in statics/dynamics for those business majors out there) Think of the CO tabs as a lever arm, not a large one, but one nonetheless. As far as complicating the steering, I'm speaking in respect to the steering arms, which now, instead on one shear load, have an enhanced shear load, as well as a torque load from another plane. Also, when you do tear up a steering arm or shear the bolts, you've not only screwed your steering, but your suspension as well-aka more complex. As far as wearing out kingpins faster, your changing the force applied to them through their range of motion and in directions not intended when designed. You go to Clemson, feel free to go down to Riggs or Lowry Hall and speak with an ME/CE professor and they'll be able to complete the laundry list of poor ideas inherent with this design.

I think everyone here is offering constructive criticism. I know you've seen buggies mount COs that way but they weigh roughly a ton less than you and they have keyed high steer arms with at least five bolts. I've seen enough stock Ford 60 knuckles break at the kingpin that my steering force is routed through to the stock steering arms and I still worry about them. That really looks like a bad idea. Like was said, if you do sheer the high steer bolts (and you likely will), you will have a big big problem on your hands.

I decided to run my coilovers out more and go through the hood. I also got some weld on beadlocks from offroadoverstock.com, I am very pleased at how everything turned out



Kirby,

Who ran your beads on your locks. I know I can run mine, but for holding air daily, I'm trying to find someone to do it.

Hunter

I did. they hold air fine

I hate to agree with mr. smartass clemson graduate, but he's pretty much right. although i think he's over stressing the steering arm studs being the weak point. the problem i see is that you are now transferring all of the weight at that corner through the top half of your knuckle, the thin part, rather than the bottom half like its designed for. now, the tapered bearing at the lower kingpin is carrying just the axle weight, like you said, rather than 1/4 the vehicle weight.

in addition, you are just adding more wear to the shock seals now that the have to pivot when you turn.

I hate to agree with mr. smartass clemson graduate, but he's pretty much right. although i think he's over stressing the steering arm studs being the weak point. the problem i see is that you are now transferring all of the weight at that corner through the top half of your knuckle, the thin part, rather than the bottom half like its designed for. now, the tapered bearing at the lower kingpin is carrying just the axle weight, like you said, rather than 1/4 the vehicle weight.

in addition, you are just adding more wear to the shock seals now that the have to pivot when you turn.

1) We aren't Clemson graduates, yet :evil:

2) Kirby knows McAmish doesn't know how to say anything but smartass comments :flipoff2: As three of the four biggest Jeeps in Clemson (with Schmozilla being the fourth) we all spend a good bit of time hanging out and wheeling (them much more than me)

3) You did hit the nail on the head with the weight transfer through the top kingpin. I would also be a little weary of the lack of weld surface area. The forces are not going to be in direct shear on those welds, but you still only have a maximum of a pair of inch and a half long beads on each kingpin cap? And isn't it burned in with 120v? I'm not expert welder by any means but by the end of the semester I should be able to break it down much more MEish for you Kirby :D Until then we'll just hope we are worrying for naught

Kirby, why not run it and let us know how it goes...

I am sure the inventor of the lightbulb got a little flack from the nay-sayers originally too...:flipoff2:

Go wheelin and have some fun!

Not particularly crazy about that passenger side knucle thing you got going on there Kirby.

Hey Clayton, at least you're not giving advice on Traction Bar mounts. :flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

Man I had a buddy that ran the CO's off the knuckles for 2 years and wheeled hard with no problems. I know another that did something similar with his knuckles and it helped and caused no issues. You will be fine man, don't sweat it