: Soo many axles, need advice
USCrawler 05-18-2002, 04:16 PM Hi. Been searching this board solid for awhile now and thought I should just go ahead and post my question.
Here is my problem. I have 92 YJ. I got into wheeling, broke my D35. Swapped in a D44 from a Wago. Broke my D30. Swapped in a D44 from a Wago. I am running 36 SX's with my D44s and have had this setup for about a year. I have sort of reached a limit to what I can do and am now ready to upgrade.
I have decided to go D44/D60. I thought ok well I find a 8 lug D44 from a J20, find a 65" D60, ready to go. Finding a J20 has turned out to be impossible. So I throw out trying to stay at 65" and head off to the junkyard.
I find an 81' GMC 3500 with 8 bolt axles. Both axles look like they are in good shape and the front is pass. drop for my D300 which is great. Can anyone tell me what axles these are? Are they pretty good axles or do they have any flaws with them?
Thanks!!!!
rear is 14 bolt, front may be a 44 or a 60
USCrawler 05-18-2002, 04:30 PM Oh. Well there was about 100 D60 from Fords so I could grab one instead of the 14 bolt as it was huge, but does anyone know for sure if it that truck has a D60 front or D44.
YotaCrawler 05-18-2002, 04:32 PM look on the cast, it will say.
USCrawler 05-18-2002, 04:36 PM It's at the junkyard, I wanted to know if it's a D44 or else I don't care and it would save me a long drive.
elf_cruiser 05-18-2002, 04:55 PM If it is a 1ton truck, as you said, then it is a 60 front. The 3/4ton(2500) had a 44 front(10 bolt) and a 14bolt rear, and the 1/2ton is 10-bolt and 10-bolt. So yes go buy them both. you don't have to do anything to the 14bolt, but you will want to buy 35 spline stub shafts for the 60, and new U-joints, and 35 spline lockouts.
Good Luck!!
elf_cruiser 05-18-2002, 04:59 PM BTW, thanx for not posting some dumb shit about which axles to buy that will get more chicks like the other newbie's...
:beer: for ya!
BadDog 05-18-2002, 05:06 PM If it has not been swapped, that should be a D60. If it has 4 bolts/studs arranged in a square holding the steering arm on the driver’s knuckle, it is a D60. If it has 3 studs sorta in-line, it is a D44 or C10 (more likely I think but don't remember the year break). If it's a D60 for a single rear wheel truck, that is THE one to get if it has a reasonable price tag. They will typically cost $800 up to $1200 for a junk yard axle. MUCH stronger than a D44 and a perfect match for a D60 rear...
BadDog 05-18-2002, 05:12 PM BTW, I see that elf posted while I was reading/typing. I agree with him on the C14FF rear axle. Get them both from the same truck and you have no gear worries (as long as what they come with matches what you need). Also, the C14FF is more comparable to a D70 rear, i.e. stronger than a D60. Only problem is the lower side of the C14FF needs some work to smooth it up (lip likes to hang rocks) and gain an easy 0.5-0.75 inches of clearance with a little grinding. Also, the C14FF has a VERY strong carrier and the cheapest detroit locker available (by over $100 I believe) AND the easiest to put in (no gear setup, takes a few hours in your drive way). Main reason to go D60 over a C14FF is that there are more low gears available (lowest for C14FF is 5.13, Dana goes to 7.??) and you can get a ARB for the Dana...
Dead Sled 05-18-2002, 06:40 PM go with Halibrand Quick Change :flipoff2:
USCrawler 05-19-2002, 12:02 AM Does anyone know a website that has information on how to determine the axle and the information on the different axles. That would be a great help but I have yet to find one.
Thanks!
3/4tonYJ 05-19-2002, 02:29 AM Originally posted by USCrawler
Finding a J20 has turned out to be impossible.
don't know where your located, but i've got one here http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/parts2.html at the bottom of the page...........fyi, the 35" tire are gone also...............
USCrawler 05-19-2002, 01:56 PM Ok I went back. There is a 60 casted into the front axle at the bottom right of the diff. So I assume this is a 60 or is that a code for something else?
The front axle is not complete. It lacks the entire brake assembly and hubs. Will this be easy to find, can I buy these parts online somewhere as this is the only junkyard nearby.
BadDog 05-19-2002, 02:04 PM Originally posted by USCrawler
Ok I went back. There is a 60 casted into the front axle at the bottom right of the diff. So I assume this is a 60 or is that a code for something else?
The front axle is not complete. It lacks the entire brake assembly and hubs. Will this be easy to find, can I buy these parts online somewhere as this is the only junkyard nearby.
IIRC, that should be "60F" but, yes, that sounds like a 60. Did you check the steering arm on the knuckle like I suggested? Should be the "4 bolts in a square". Unfortunately, the brake/hub/spindle assemblies for SRW (non dually) axles are rather difficult to find used and often pricy when you do. Buying new is still an option but expensive. That's probably what happened to the missing parts, someone wanted them to convert from a dually axle. If it's cheap enough, I would still get it. If nothing else, you will have it when/if you run across the missing pieces. Does it still have the axle shafts? Just depends on what condition, gears, *exactly* what is there and usable, etc…
doctor_G 05-19-2002, 03:46 PM If you strike out at the salvage yards, spindles and hub/rotors can usually be found on www.ebay.com
You can expect to pay in the neighborhood of 250.00 for hub/rotor assemblies.
You can find good deals if your patient, I just scored a high-pinion Dana 60 a week ago for 280.00, the other HP60 I got at a local junk yard cost me a grand. :(
If I where you, I'd try dealing and get them both. Good luck.
CJ-Jeeper 05-19-2002, 04:28 PM There is a set of J-20 axles (44/60) on E-bay right now. Auction ends tomorrow & bid is @ $128. They are in S.C.
Just in case you are still interested
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