ok don't tell me about the problems these things have from the factory, I have found out the hard way. replaced everything in the front end that looked like a balljoint, and the steering box, still wanders a bit.
anyone have an idea how to fix it properly? I'm thinking of a "normal" crossover link with larger tre's, convert the track bar to accept a replaceable balljoint. I'm hoping my new steering box survives.
do poly bushings help? has anyone got the cure for this?
don't tell me to sell it I love the cummins and the nv4500. plan to swap on a ford np205 when the stocker pops.

So did you replace teh trackbar? That is the cause of 90% of the Rams wandering issues. I'd look into a DT replacement. It uses a custom frame bracket, heims at both ends, straight rod. It is availbe for $350 or so and for 0-3" lift and 3-6" lift.

Contact http://www.dtprofab.com

yes i did, steering box, draglinks, tie rod ends, track bar, ball joints, everything. its much much better than it was when i got it but still lacks road feel. seems to need constant steering input.

Try to simply rotate the tires front to back? Out of round tire or wheel could do it. Check the hubs?

I converted my 97 1500 to a straight tie rod and the draglink attaches to the passenger side TRE (sort of crossover) using tube and HD GM TREs. What I am getting at is that that setup barely clears the diff cover and just touches the track bar bolt on my D44. Your D60 cover is much larger and I do not think a striaght tube will clear. I beleive the steering arms are the same lenght between teh 1500, 2500 and 3500 since the tierod and draglink setups are identical between them (I know, I was going to replace my 1/2 ton junk with 3/4 ton when I bent it all and found out they were identical)

http://www.pavementsucks.com/album/ramp01011.jpg

http://www.pavementsucks.com/album/ramp01012.jpg

I have been thinking of that kind of setup, chev tre's and draglink. I never thought about the housing interfering. are the chev tre's the same taper as the dodge? I thought they were bigger for some reason.
does it handle better with that setup or is it just for strength?

The holes needed to be reamed out to the GM taper.

I did it for several reasons. I bent the factory setup and the replacement OEM style parts were only $80 less than this custom job. The GM TREs are much more readily available everywhere and less expsnsive vs the Dodge. Also strength, since the factory draglink and tierod are solid bar and not straight and thus weaker and the factory setup also resulted in bumpsteer. Until my steering box started to go out along with my ball joints, the steering was much better than the factory.

Off topic but why in the world would you want to replace the T'case with an Np205? I assume you have the NV241HD which is rated to more torque and GCWR, and has 2.72 gearing vs the 205's 1.96. The chain drive is usually weaker then gear but thats a big chain in there, plus your planetaries allow for quiter, cooler and easier operation. If your heart is set on swapping to Ford parts, why not use the 271 ? Its the same as the 241 HD, just stronger.

I'm assuming you've had it aligned. When I first bought mine, it was similar, no road feel and required constant input. After replacing the ball joints, track bar, and stabilizer to fix the death wobble (:flipoff1: Dodge), I replaced the 245 highways w/255/85R16s on 8" aftermarket wheels, then added a 2.5" spacer. When I had it aligned, I told my buddy (the alignment tech) about the wandering, and he added a few more degrees of caster, I think spec is around 3, mine is like 6 or 7, which is common for other trucks (ie my Chevy). It helped out a lot. I eventually added another steering stabilizer, to help out with the trucks death wobble tendencies (even if it didn't start wobbling, it often felt like it wanted to). Now the only problem is there isn't quite enough steering assist when not moving.

If you want to go to a normal style tie rod and get rid of that crap they put on there, look into the '99 OE stuff. My buddy's work truck is a '99 2500 that has the steering setup similar to the pic above. I've thought about going that route when mine dies.

Also, the 241 HD was NOT standard on diesels (I have the 241 LD), it was optional, either alone or as part of the plow package. IIRC they can be identified by a PTO output.

Pete

I have yet to see an np205 blow up. my 241hd has already been done once, if it fails I upgrade to something that is proven to work.
I had it aligned but it only needed the toe in adjusted. I may take it in and ask them to add a few degrees caster see if that helps.
mine is supposed to have a new dampner on it but I get the feeling it requires one again. have to look and see if I can get a good aftermarket one to fit.

I have a rancho (or maybe pro-comp?) stabilizer on mine, in the stock position. I believe it is identical to the ones on my Chevy. Adding the second one on mine helped a lot, I just welded on some brackets for it.

Pete

go to the tdr website and do a search on the bb for lukes link in the appropriate year forum. also try a little more toe in @3/16thplus or minus an rch!:usa:

on the dodges because the front axle is turning all the time make sure your axle u-joints are good. One that is seized up will cause wierd steering feel sometimes.