This is my second rodeo and the last one was 1994 LS 4x4 with 31-10.50's and was ten times the suv this '01 is. This thing had the electronically regulated suspension which is crap!! I have disposed of them and installed bilsteins on all 4 corners but this thing still rides like mush! I am looking for suspension info and upgrades. I've been to Independant4X4 and to CALMINI, I like the Old Man Emu stuff and I really like the calmini control arm set up but am torn between which is best or if I should mix and match. What are the shocks in the CALMINI kit? Why can't I find torsion bars for this year? Are the factory t-bars that great as to not need a stronger set? I want to lift this thing and stiffen up the ride...It dives now like nobodies buisness. Any experienced input would be greatly appreciated!:confused:

I bought my '95 with the Calmini lift installed, and I ended up replacing the shocks with ProComp ES3000's. The difference was night and day. Based on my experience, I wouldn't recomend the Calmini shocks.

Some OME springs and a torsion bar crank should stiffen up your ride considerably. Unless you are adding weight up front, like a winch or bumper, the stock T-bars should be fine. Don't know if any aftermarked are available or not.

Independent4x will treat you right.

Has anyone seen the SUN 4X4 suspensions IFS drop lift? I have seen it overseas and am trying to locate it here? Eliminates the issues associated with cranking you t-bars and I think you can get 33's under the rodeo.:cool2:

Has anyone seen the SUN 4X4 suspensions IFS drop lift?

That scarey abomination they try to pass off as a lift kit... yeah, I've seen it:eek: OME coils out back (with spacers depending how much lift you want, and track-bar relocation for the same), crank the stock torsion bars up front. Firmer ride and some lift for about as cheap as you could expect to lift a vehicle. I agree that the thicker t-bars aren't needed unless you are adding a good amount of weight up front. Buy from Independent4x, Calmini has no understanding of customer service.:laughing: I know plenty of people with 33's on their Rodeos. Lift truck, put on tires, trim where needed.
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FIX PS3 (http://fixps3.info/)

When you lift the front the ride gets stiffer due to the suspension geometery, you don't need any parts for the front except offroad shocks.

Chris, thanks alot for the info on the T-Bar adjustment. I am probably just going to get in touch with Independent4x for my stuff. I've tried to contact Darlington offroad 'cause his company truck is exactly the stance I would like to achieve...hopefully he still checks his email. By the way, awsome pup build chris hope you get the bugs worked out. Thanks Chad

Decide what size tires you want to run,and how stiff you want the back.

Respond back here and we can help with the parts needed,then give Matt at indepedant a hollar,,,,,,,,,he'll hook you up.

WHere in WV?

Bansil I'm in Capon Bridge...as far as the tire size I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of 31-33 10.50 on the factory 16" rims. Now for the stiffness, right now this thing is so soft it is almost dangerous to drive. Will not tow anything! major weight the rear will see is a 125lb Mastiff co-pilot, light offroad, no rockcrawling just run of the mill backcountry trails and unmanicured logging roads. Thanks

I would go with a 265x75x16.

Ome 912's will give you about 3-3 1/2" of lift,crank the front and give yourself about 3/4" of rake(rear higher than front.)
This will allow you to clear 265's with minor fender trim in front(barely noticable)

Another option is to also add a 2" spacer in the rear and crank the front up another inch.

You will still need to trim the front fenders.

But with the 2" spacer you will need longer shocks and a bent or modified drivers upper link(to clear the gastank)


With just the springs you can get by with stock lenght rear shocks(so you don't need to buy more,right now)and the factory drivers upper link.


WHen you start to get more hardcore,the mods will follow.

I recommend manual hubs(to save cvboots)

You will also need to take the brake juntion loose on the rearend and move it up 3".


Calmini upper arms are not needed,your truck will align just fine,the caster may be off but this is why you allow for the rear to sit higher.

Measure from center of hub (stock) to a place on each fender opening,and use those measurements to adjust after your lift.


In the future if you want more,you can add 2" spacers and modify drivers upper link,and replace rear shocks and be another 2" higher.


My wifes 98 has 912's,2" spacers,3"BL and lots of custom suspension parts.
SHe is running 33x12.5

I have 929's,2" spacers and 265x75's on factory wheels.

Ome 929 are alot stiffer than 912's,but I tow and generally haul around 500lbs of crap in mine.


ANd I think you'll be very surprised with how capable your new rodeo,just give it time.

Anymore ?'s just ask...............

Here's a few pics,they are old though,but they show that these newer trucks work.
These are my wifes.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/505000-505999/505863_58.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/505000-505999/505863_53.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/505000-505999/505863_66.jpg
Newest pic 9 months old
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e381/soulpatch75/DSCF0369.jpg


Her site
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/505863

Bansil, Thanks for the info...pics of your sig. others ride are sweet! Where can I get my hands on a bent or modified drivers upper link? I can get enough lift from cranking the front end to match up with OME 912's and a poly spacer? Now for the shocks...I see alot of people running Rancho 9000 what about Bilsein 5100? if the only benefit to the rancho's is the adjustment...nice but not necessary(don't think I'll ever adjust them). Your spot on with the tire size 265/75/16's are about 32x10.5x16 so if they will fit without major mods they're the ones. The manual locking hubs are a must, know where I can get my hands on aisin's in good shape cheap? Thanks again for all your help...where are you in Tenn. Any pics of your ride?

know where I can get my hands on aisin's in good shape cheap?

Start scrounging the yards and checking ebay if you want to luck into a really cheap set. Independent4x often has a used set on-hand for about the same price as new Superwinches... which, IMHO, is cheap for the best manual hub you can buy.
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Kitchen Measures (http://kitchenmeasures.com/)

I'll try to get a pic of mine this weekend,there should be a link on the cardomain site,to a fender trim job I did to a WV passport.

Matt can hook you up with a bent link also ,he's the man with connections every where (shameless plug:D )

As for shocks keep stock lenght up front,we just use cheap shocks.........

'cuz we're cheap........

I'm just not a fan of $$$$$$$$shocks but lotr's of folks use the 9000's.

Thanks again for the info...I'll be getting in touch with matt and get this thing started!!:grinpimp:

A cheap way to tighten up your ride is to replace your sway bar bushings...Matt can help you with that too.