I was wanting to get a little input on front coil spring usage. I know there are some running cherokee springs, but with a BBF and a doubler, I don't know if those will last.

I have an oppertunity to buy some 6" lift superflex coils from a bronco with only a few hundred miles on them for 120 bucks.

They're 27 inches uncompressed and 21 at ride height.

planning on running tri 4 link with hydro assist. dana 60 and 40" tires. would this be a good spring to use for the front? back?

There are lot of choices for coils in diameter, spring rate and length. Google Hypercoil and you will get lots of hits.

I would buy my springs last, after the suspension is designed, and I know what my weights are and the rates need to be.

These coils are cheap, $45-$55 per coil.

I picked up some early bronco coils to use on mine. Based on recomandations for the few guys that have or are running coils. Don't know if they will work yet as everyone knows I haven't done shit.

If you think you can sell them later, I'd get the bronco coils and try them out. You can always change them later.

I'd get the bronco coils and try them out. You can always change them later.

Unless, you need to redesign everything for a different coil....:(

Unless, you need to redesign everything for a different coil....:(

I'd probably just buy taller or shorter springs if needed instead of re-designing everything.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/34.asp

I am thinking about some of those prerunner coils. I wouldn't mind having a little more progressive spring rate than usuall to do tough truck kind of driving without slamming into my bumpstops. Since the price of these coils isn't exactly a steal, i think I may do some more calculating on what will work. I would rather get all my parts together and planed out and ready to put together so I don't have an excuse to set on my ass for a week that I could be working.

I had wild horses 5.5 in the front and 3.5 in the rear. first with the 345 then went to a 350. very flexy coils

The early Bronco coils should work well in the front. The later full size Bronco lift springs are pretty damn stiff. There are tons of threads about EB coils in the Ford forum.

im looking at some myself... ive been told to use bronco "winch" coils (i guess there stiffer) and not to go any bigger then the 3.5" lift coils... but my buddy has the 5" and his bow out way to much he said, but i dont think he has one of those pivot things ant the bottom. he also said not to go with the radius arm setup, he would instead go with a one bar to the bottom and attach the top arm to it.. if that makes sense:confused: like a Y at the axle. you also have to remember that the bronco is lighter in front then a scout, spring rate is a big factor. that 21" may be fine for a bronco.

i think i may have to go with coil overs, yeah a bit pricy but i figure there easier to install (no shock brackets, coil buckets) and i can adjust the height and ride with the coil overs. ive been talkin to snoopy and weve figured that the issues would be clearence (exhaust, engine, fenders) and steering, i would like to do a 4 link setup but i may not be able to do that due to the steering box pushing the axle side to side. but i am deffently going to go with coils in the front, i am gonna ditch the leafs:flipoff2:

i would like to do a 4 link setup but i may not be able to do that due to the steering box pushing the axle side to side.

That's the steering box have anything to to do with a 4-link?

If you have a triangulated 4/3-link, the suspension would influence the steering a bit, but not the other way around. If your really worried about bump steer use a panhard-rod parallel with the draglink.


I'm planning coils since they are cheap, all be it more fabrication required... however I'm not ruling out airshocks in the front depending on what kind of weight things end up being.... :D

he also said not to go with the radius arm setup, he would instead go with a one bar to the bottom and attach the top arm to it.. if that makes sense:confused: like a Y at the axle.


That's still a radius arm. Just a poor design of one.

allows better flex. i think they refer to it as a "long arm". however anyone who has done a hill climb with one knows the limitations.

That's still a radius arm. Just a poor design of one.

not true the ones im talking about are on newer heeps, as there setup with coils... but then i guess if anything is on a heep its a poor design:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

That's the steering box have anything to to do with a 4-link?

If you have a triangulated 4/3-link, the suspension would influence the steering a bit, but not the other way around. If your really worried about bump steer use a panhard-rod parallel with the draglink.


I'm planning coils since they are cheap, all be it more fabrication required... however I'm not ruling out airshocks in the front depending on what kind of weight things end up being.... :D

snoopy told me that since the triangualted front the steering box would be pushing the axle side to side, since the force of the steering is coming from one point of the suspension, snoopy said that most people who do 4 links also run full hydro. steering

Well, I don't see why a panhard bar couldn't be run parallel to the drag link with hydro assist and use parallel 4-link.

Well, I don't see why a panhard bar couldn't be run parallel to the drag link with hydro assist and use parallel 4-link.

then you might as well run a 3 link then... i would think the triangulated 4 link would keep everything from going side to side??? but shit i dont know crap bout coils and link setups

Well, I don't see why a panhard bar couldn't be run parallel to the drag link with hydro assist and use parallel 4-link.
A non-triangulated 4-link up front with a panhard bar would work with a steering box since the panhard/track bar would keep the axle where its supposed to be. A triangulated 4-link would walk a bit.

A non-triangulated 4-link up front with a panhard bar would work with a steering box since the panhard/track bar would keep the axle where its supposed to be
A non triangulated 4 or 3 link in the front is/would be easier to fit as well, but more parts.
A triangulated 4-link would walk a bit.
:confused: If it was triangulated properly, it wouldn't walk at all :confused:


please explain. Seems to me the suspension would have more influence on the steering, rather than the other way around.

Most complaints/concerns I have heard about using a triangulated 4-link have been more of a 'bump steer' issue... how sevier I couldn't tell you, can't see it being much worse than a SOA with a Z-link :D

If it was triangulated properly, it wouldn't walk at all

I think it is tough to get enough traingulation to be really effective on the front due to clearance of exhaust, oil pans, and offset diff, especially if you are not going for max lift.

Trying to shoe horn a track bar in is not really that easy either, but I think the effect is much more positive for locating the axle.

In my experience, the steering box will put pressure on the hiems and such and will walk a bit ~ or wear them out. One of my old employees tried to do this and although it worked rather well at first, it was short lived and he added a track-bar after the fact. The problem then was that the track-bar moved the axle back and forth more than the tri-4link wanted to go and presto, started to fatigue the frame at the mounting points since they were constantly fighting each other.

There's a thread on this in gen. I'll find it and post.

There is some talk on this subject: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=533674 ~ Its BTF's Viper build. Check out Day 6+ for a little discussion on it.

Although Bill's set up didn't work, I suppose it could have if done right ~ but then you'd run into other problems. Such as

A tri-4link moves the axle straight up and down. When using a steering box, that means it'll induce a bunch of bump-steer since the draglink would pull the tires left when dropping out, and push them right when compressing. so if you were to jump such a rig (or hit harsh bumps or those neato speed bumps some areas are so fond of), it'd really screw with ya. This is probably why many people don't care for such a setup with a conventional steering system. Besides of course, for the whole clearing the trans and driveshaft thing.

Going full hydro, on the other hand, will not yield any bumpsteer at all ~ and that's why I think they are used on buggies with this kind of front suspension. However, it may be a little touchy on the street or for use on DDs ~ weather or not its at all legal is another arguement.

That is why I am leaning more towards using parallel 4 link with panhard. would elimate bump steer. I am a bit leary of full hydro on my DD although I have never had a problem with it on a tractor.

That is why I am leaning more towards using parallel 4 link with panhard. would elimate bump steer. I am a bit leary of full hydro on my DD although I have never had a problem with it on a tractor.

Parallel 4 link will bind and limit articulation. Look at a 3 link with panhard (or even a removable 4th link).

Parallel 4 link will bind and limit articulation. Look at a 3 link with panhard (or even a removable 4th link).

Bingo!

Here is a thread I ran into, It's 4 years old, but relevant...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94306&highlight=3-link

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40548&stc=1&d=1038169063

I LIKE IT! Were do I go to see how people like that setup on the street? The only disadvantage that I could see would be that under braking it would tend to lean to the left under braking. at least if it were built as drawn.

ahh, hence the removable 4th link. :foot in mouth:

I really like this idea.

I wonder if there is enough room for a watts link in there. hmmmm.