Hi there,

I had to stop mating the l/h cylinder head with the block.
I am using ARP-studs which are just fine BUT :
on the standard engine the foremost bolt (l/h, middle row)is double ended and the alternator mounting bracket secured to it with another nut on top.

I find no way in mimicking that assembly with the ARP-stud. Either I put washers beneath the bracket to get the bracket levelled (otherwise the bracket´s other fixing bolt wouldn´t align) then the ARP-nut has not enough thread left. Or I first tighten the ARP-Nut, but then the bracket sits too high.

Would could I do ???

´thinking of
a) turning down the ARP-nut to the same height as the standard bolt´s head. and then first tightening the ARP-nut, then dropping the bracket onto the stud and screwing down another nut.
b) using the standard double ended bolt that Rover used (but I see a problem in that the bolt is screwed down with a UNC-thread while the ARP-nut has a UNF-thread. No way to get the same tension when using the same torque (I fear) - so I might end up with uneven clamping of the head.
c) modifying the bracket (i.e. cutting away the part that needs to be put over the cylinder head bolt and welding it back to the "corrected" level). But I have that bracket cleaned and nicely painted already. I would do this only if I really really had to.

I vote C.

Second

Ok, that makes 2 vs. 1 ... or more precise 2 vs. "0" opinion ;)

You guys got me convinced ... unless someone finds a option d)

vote C

Convert to serpentine and don't worry about it!

C or convert to serp like PT suggests... Really though what's a little paint.. I rarely have enough time to complete a project let alone paint anything..

I rarely have enough time to complete a project let alone paint anything..


LOL, maybe the paint is why Pendy's projects take so long (but less time than mine!)

PT

of course you´re right. BUT - just cutting the offending part of the bracket does not help, either way I put it (beneath or on top of the nut) there is not enough thread of the stud to get everything onto it.


Well, with looking at the parts and c) not really working I further think of:

d) converting to the older, right/hand mounting style of the alternator. I could do that because I do not have a/c. On the other hand I am not sure if my baulky 120A alterator fits into that space. I needed another bracket and so on. Not quite convinced that is the way to go. I had other plans for the space of the a/c compressor BTW.

e) the front face of the cylinder head has three threaded holes. Only two are used for my bracket. I could easily drill a hole into the bracket so that there is a third fixing point. On the other, r/h head this very hole is used to carry an engine lifting bracket so it should be strong enough (I have the 10bolt heads on the recon block, the old 3.9 head does not have that hole)
. The front of the alternator bracket is stilll supported by the standard thick strut. This way things will fit -BUT I wonder why Rover didn´t do it and bothered to add another fixing point in a second plane ??? I cannot assess the problems caused by vibration, the alternator IS heavy as you know.

Serpentine: I thought that sounded easy but is really involved - with a set of new and probably precious pulleys, I would STILL have to mount the alternator to something - are you sure that setup get´s me around my problem ??

(I had a look into a later parts manual (up to 93 MY). It seems like there is a second generation of alternator mounting brackets. The later type appears to be fixed just like my option e). Could this be true ????


Paul, what in a nutshell would I have to change for the serpentine thing ?

Paul, what in a nutshell would I have to change for the serpentine thing ?

There seems to be some disagreement on this topic, however, I have recently spoken with a gentleman who has done it with no problems.

New front cover with oil pump and front pulley/harmonic dampener, serpentine alternator-A/C brackets, serp PAS pump (search here for the CB replacement) and away you go. According to the gentleman I've been corresponding with on this topic, it was much easier than all the E-techs told him it would be.

Believe it or not, it was done by a fellow more commonly on Dweb...http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31846

Ok,

swapping all the stuff to my engine that´s currently on the bench would be easy to do, but too expensive. I would have to buy parts that I already have (next to a new front timing housing I won on ebay long time ago) - demanding money that I urgently need for other spares.

At present I am inclined to drill the hole for the third bolt into my old bracket and omit the angle that formerly was connected to the head bolt.
Really looks like that V8 from 1992 on had/have this fixing.