First a little background. I'm in the military, and as such have to transfer every few years. The latest transfer found me with my own garage/shop for the first time. Great, but, I'm used to having a full shop at my disposal, and now I have to fully outfit my own shop on my dime. Not that bad, lil expensive, especially when you're used to having a govt budget for buying tools. Some sacrifices had to be made, such as a 180 mig instead of a 251, no TIG setup, and the real killer, going from a big bandsaw and Dewalt multi cutter to a regular ole chop saw.

The chop saw has been getting alot of use lately, and blades for it have been driving me nuts. Expensive for what they are, sloppy cuts, huge mess, and they just dont last. Since I've been using 2"x4" tubing for bumpers lately, it doesn't take long till the blade us worn enough that it wont cut through the 4" depth.

Then I found a post about chop saws on another forum and a mention of Bullet industries. They have released a carbide tipped chop saw blade rated at 4400 RPM's so it can be used in a regular chop saw. Best part is, its cheap, about the cost of 3-4 quality chop saw blades.

http://www.bulletindustries.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99_144/products_id/449

It didn't take me long to give em a call and get out the credit card. 5 days later the blade arrived on my doorstep. Double packaged with packing peanuts and bubble wrap between the outer and inner box. Took me about a week to get a chance to try it out and see if it was worth the cash.

I'm going to do this as a heads up comparison between the Bullet blade and a brand new Norton Charger fast cut abrasive blade 14"x7/64" with a max RPM of 4365. The saw of choice is a Makita 2414 13amp 3800RPM 14" chop saw.

First up, some comparison shots. Of interest here is the fact that the Bullet blade is actually rated for a higher RPM than the abrasive blade.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet1-med.JPG
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet2-med.JPG
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet3-med.JPG
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet4-med.JPG
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet5-med.JPG

Enough of the pretty pictures, lets see how these things cut. I used 2"x4"x3/16" rectangular tubing for all cuts.

First up, the abrasive blade.

Note the ammount of sparks thrown around.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet8-med.JPG

Completed cut took 54 seconds or so, had to count 1 one thousand etc to time it. Here's the completed cut and the ammount of dust generated. Yes, I started with a clean area on the shop floor and swept up the dust after each cut. The things I'll go through for a review.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet6-med.JPG

Then it was on to a thin cut, seems its not to uncommon to want to take just a little bit off the end of a tube. Note how the heat of the cut made a curlyQ out of the drop.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet7-med.JPG
The drop measured .012 on my cheapo calipers.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet15-med.JPG

I made a total of 3 cuts with the abrasive blade, and in the process took 5/32" off the overall diameter.

Now its on to the Bullet blade to see how it does. Same 2"x4"x3/16" rectangular tubing.

Much less sparks flying around.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet11-med.JPG

Complete cut took 16 seconds by my counting method. Again you can see how much dust was created by the cut, it is a coarser dust so a bit easier to clean up.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet9-med.JPG

Of interest was how long it took the blade to stop upon completion of the cut. With the carbide blade it took approximatly 40 seconds to spin to a full stop. I put the abrasive blade in to compare and the abrasive stopped in about 26 seconds. The extra weight of the carbide blade has a bit of a flywheel affect. It also took an extra second or two to get up to full speed. I always wait a couple seconds after hitting the switch before beginning a cut for the blade to stabalize after acceleration, so this wasn't a big deal for me.

Then it was on to the thin cut.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet10-med.JPG
Again, about .012 by my cheapo calipers. Just alot cleaner and cooler cut.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet14-med.JPG

Since I mentioned cut quality, lets take a closer look.
First the abrasive blade's cut.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet13-med.JPG

VS the carbide tipped blade.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/651/101bullet12-med.JPG

Both are pretty smooth, but the reduction in flash to have to clean up gives my nod to the carbide blade.


Overall impressions.

I'm glad I spent the money on this blade. I feel its turned my old chop saw into a comparable machine to the Dewalt multi cutter for 1/10 the price. Remember, I've used the Dewalt alot, and while its been 6 months since I've used it, my memory says this is just as good. Dont think I'll be going back to abrasive blades for a long time. Get one of these, you'll wonder why it took em so long to come up with em, and how you got by without em. These blades could very well be the death of the multi cutter type saws, no way could I ever justify spending the money on one after a simple blade swap got me the same performance.

While I'm only a few cuts into the hopefully long life expectancy of this blade, rest assured I'll update this post if I ever have any issues with it, and to update how long it lasts.

I'm in the process of choosing among other things, a saw. Looks like this blade & a chop saw will be on the list! :beer:

Is there any difference Noise wise.

x2...noise is the the main reason iv'e been thinkin about going to a band saw...I can't wait to get out of this damn garage and into a shop :shaking:

appreciate you takin the time to post this...Iv'e been thinkin about getting one of these

Sorry, there isn't any appreciable reduction in noise with the carbide tipped blade. It is a slightly higher pitch, but about the same volume. If noise is a huge concern, then a bandsaw is about your only bet. What do ya do about running grinders tho?

Any info on the longevity of the carbide blade?

Bullet guestimates a lifespan of 15-20 abrasive blades. In my experience with a Dewalt multi cutter, the carbide blade lasted over a year with moderate use. Good thing is, carbide blades can be sharpened and the carbide inserts replaced if damaged. While its not a diy project, most saw places will do it for about $25 or so, more if they have to replace teeth. I fully expect a couple years life with home shop hobbiest use. Yesterday was the first time I used this blade, so no realworld life term reports yet, gonna take time for that. I'll post up if anything goes wrong with it, and when it finally needs sharpening or dies.

Short answer, a hell of alot longer than any abrasive blade.:flipoff2:

Bullet guestimates a lifespan of 15-20 abrasive blades. In my experience with a Dewalt multi cutter, the carbide blade lasted over a year with moderate use. Good thing is, carbide blades can be sharpened and the carbide inserts replaced if damaged. While its not a diy project, most saw places will do it for about $25 or so, more if they have to replace teeth. I fully expect a couple years life with home shop hobbiest use. Yesterday was the first time I used this blade, so no realworld life term reports yet, gonna take time for that. I'll post up if anything goes wrong with it, and when it finally needs sharpening or dies.

Short answer, a hell of alot longer than any abrasive blade.:flipoff2:

Just so you know, there is a good chance you going to break the gears on the chop saw.

Really? What leads you to this conclusion? Figure easier cutting has got to be better for the gears than bogging the saw down with a partially glazed abrasive wheel. I can see some detriment to having a heavier blade on there, but not alot of added stress. Sort of like the mud guys being able to keep a dana 44 alive with 40" tires since they just spin with little traction.

If it does happen, I'll be sure to post that too, falls into the long term review catagory.

Really? What leads you to this conclusion? Figure easier cutting has got to be better for the gears than bogging the saw down with a partially glazed abrasive wheel. I can see some detriment to having a heavier blade on there, but not alot of added stress. Sort of like the mud guys being able to keep a dana 44 alive with 40" tires since they just spin with little traction.

If it does happen, I'll be sure to post that too, falls into the long term review catagory.

The gears are going to break from starting the blade over and over. The moment of inertia for a disc is 1/2(M)(R^2) and the higher the moment of inertia, the more likely the gears are going to break from bend stress fatigue. You may also be getting a growl noise during start-up which is the gear teeth chattering from the 60 Hz electrical input

What exatly was the cost of the blade ? Care to share with the rest of the class?

What exatly was the cost of the blade ? Care to share with the rest of the class?


http://www.bulletindustries.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99_144/products_id/449


first post. :flipoff2:

Ok so for those of us lazy folks they are $40 for the blade he has there.....

The gears are going to break from starting the blade over and over. The moment of inertia for a disc is 1/2(M)(R^2) and the higher the moment of inertia, the more likely the gears are going to break from bend stress fatigue. You may also be getting a growl noise during start-up which is the gear teeth chattering from the 60 Hz electrical input

That makes sense, I guess. I'll keep track of how long the saw lasts with this setup. Chop saws are pretty cheap, bout $150 or so, abrasive blades about $10. At that rate, this blade and saw only has to last as long as 15 abrasive blades and I've saved enough for a new saw, and saved some time and frustration along the way. Sounds like a risk I'm willing to take. Anything over a 15 disk lifespan and I'm saving. Hows that for a formula?:D

kwrangln- Thanks for biting the "bullet" and ordering one (pun inteneded) That may breathe some new life into my POS HF chop saw. I see they are sold out of the 14" chopsaw blades, maybe I'll try the 7 1/4" circular saw blade first...only $14.95, v/s an entire new Clarke (TSC) or HF metal cutting saw at $70. I need to cut some 16 ga sheet and my air nibbler and shears aren't up to the task.

Read your writeup on JU. Went to order one, and they're sold out... Oh well. Let us know how it holds up.

The gears are going to break from starting the blade over and over. The moment of inertia for a disc is 1/2(M)(R^2) and the higher the moment of inertia, the more likely the gears are going to break from bend stress fatigue. You may also be getting a growl noise during start-up which is the gear teeth chattering from the 60 Hz electrical input

As to this, kwranglin...how about weighing both blades with a small scale so we'll know the exact weight difference.

Nice review. Thanks a bunch. I think you sold me.

This blade cuts really nice. I put one on my saw this weekend, cut some 2 X 2 X 1/4 tube with ease. Very little down pressure on the saw. As far as tearing the gears out of the saw, I think that's a little far fetched at this point.:shaking:

So the effect of the differences of moment of inertia @ startup is more pronounced than the 'tard that hangs his body weight of the handle/eases off/jumps back on/etc. while sawing through some thick stock w/ abrasive blades? Because I've seen many such 'tards and may have been guilty of bearing down excessively hard on a saw a time or two also and most of the quality saws that I've seen abused are still chugging along.

This blade cuts really nice. I put one on my saw this weekend, cut some 2 X 2 X 1/4 tube with ease. Very little down pressure on the saw. As far as tearing the gears out of the saw, I think that's a little far fetched at this point.:shaking:

Say what you want to say, I work for a power tool company and have seen the failures.

kwrangln doesn't seem too worried about it so i guess we'll see with time

So...not that I ever do it but a metal blade seems a little scarier for "freehanding"(un-/partially clamped) like when you do that funky tube cope...any thoughts?

I refuse to worry about it. If my saw dies an untimely death, it will still have served a long and useful life, as I'm sure its replacement will. Unlike alot of folks, I know how to use a saw without abusing it, figure if one can stand up to joe weekend warrior who has never used one, then it can stand up to a careful operator with a bit heavier blade.

I'll have to see if I can borrow a scale from somewhere to get a weight difference, dont have anything accurate enough at the house. Even at work I only have spring scales which everyone will agree are a bit less than accurate.

As for using a carbide blade without the workpiece clamped VERY securely, forget it. My old Multi-cutter had a bend in the base from an improperly clamped piece of small tubing getting chucked across the shop. Do not play around with these blades. You may be able to get away with hand holding a piece to notch it with an abrasive blade, but it aint gonna happen with a carbide blade, duck and cover, ya wont know where the piece is going to make splashdown.

Awesome! I'm sold. Thank you very much for the review!!! :D

Cut anything thick with it yet? I just cut a rockwell housing with my multicutter. It does the job, but did not like it very much. Lots of sparks, probably not to good for the blade:(

thanks for the review. as soon as they have that thing in stock i'll be getting one.

did you notice more or less deflection versus the abrasive blade? that's the one thing i hate about the chop saw. thanks.

andy

Just got one today, that thing works great.. Cut 1.5 DOM 1/4 wall like butter. It is a bit louder but we should be wearing hearing protection anyway right.. Love it so far, I was getting sick of the chop saw but I think I'll have to give it another chance now..

I refuse to worry about it. If my saw dies an untimely death, it will still have served a long and useful life, as I'm sure its replacement will. Unlike alot of folks, I know how to use a saw without abusing it, figure if one can stand up to joe weekend warrior who has never used one, then it can stand up to a careful operator with a bit heavier blade.

I'll have to see if I can borrow a scale from somewhere to get a weight difference, dont have anything accurate enough at the house. Even at work I only have spring scales which everyone will agree are a bit less than accurate.

As for using a carbide blade without the workpiece clamped VERY securely, forget it. My old Multi-cutter had a bend in the base from an improperly clamped piece of small tubing getting chucked across the shop. Do not play around with these blades. You may be able to get away with hand holding a piece to notch it with an abrasive blade, but it aint gonna happen with a carbide blade, duck and cover, ya wont know where the piece is going to make splashdown.

Awesome review.

I guess the need for rigidity with the carbide cutters should be pretty obvious. It won't take that long to grab the abrasive wheel and switch for weird stuff but I try to use a portaband over unclamped when/if possible anyway.

It's kind of funny thinking about one of these blades lasting for generations of waranteed HF saws. It's probably time to pony up for a makita anyway...i'm sure there's some truth to Ptrautne's statements. It's just that I use a milwaukee chop at buddy's shop quite a bit and have done TONS of cutting for years on a makita at work and KNOW that the people that made these things weren't fucking around about making robust, long-lasting machines.

:beer:

I think I need to order one of these bad boy's.

Since they were out of the 14" chopsaw blade, I ordered the 7 1/4" circ saw blade today, will post results when I get it and use it.

Be carefull with the circle saw blade's. I tryed to use one , and the saw turns the wrong direction. So that causes It to keep trying throw the saw at me .

From the arrows on the blade and the tooth orientation it appears that it will work fine with my 7 1/4" Skil saw.

Does yours turn clockwise or counter clockwise?

Cc

Be carefull with the circle saw blade's. I tryed to use one , and the saw turns the wrong direction. So that causes It to keep trying throw the saw at me .
Is there only one way they will go on? cant you turn them halfaround and have the teeth going to other way that way?


I have one of the slower speed chop saws 1800 RPM if i remember right.. how do you think these blades will do on them? these blades would be a hell of alot cheaper than the 100 and something dollar blades i am using now..

Be carefull with the circle saw blade's. I tryed to use one , and the saw turns the wrong direction. So that causes It to keep trying throw the saw at me .

If thats the case, you have one seriously screwed up circular saw. Every circular saw I've ever seen cuts on the up side of the blade, meaning the teeth are rising through the work. If looking that the side the blade is on (blade on right side of handle when viewed from above), the blade should be spinning counter clockwise. Make sure you put the blade on so the teeth are pointing up at the front of the saw.

I'd imagine these blades would work just fine with the slower RPM saws, but that is just my speculation, I dont know for sure. For the price, its worth a shot. Let us know how it works.

I hope to actually have some time to spend in the shop tomorrow, so I'll put it through its paces a bit more.

Well I guess I spoke to soon. We have about 25 to 30 straight cuts in 1 3/4
.120 wall DOM and the bullet blade took a dump. 3 carbides are gone and the rest are rounded. This sucks since it worked so well. My buddy is going to drop them an email. We'll see what happens I guess..

If thats the case, you have one seriously screwed up circular saw. Every circular saw I've ever seen cuts on the up side of the blade, meaning the teeth are rising through the work. If looking that the side the blade is on (blade on right side of handle when viewed from above), the blade should be spinning counter clockwise. Make sure you put the blade on so the teeth are pointing up at the front of the saw.

I'd imagine these blades would work just fine with the slower RPM saws, but that is just my speculation, I dont know for sure. For the price, its worth a shot. Let us know how it works.

I hope to actually have some time to spend in the shop tomorrow, so I'll put it through its paces a bit more.


I tryed an abrasive blade with the circ saw. Mine spin's cc to but if you think about it if it catche's or gets cought the momentum shoot's the saw at you . If the blades spin's cc it catches and wamo the saw kick's back. I am just saying becareful. I screwed up 2 abrasive blade's in a day bc they kicked back and chewed the blade up . Maybe the carbide tip will be better.

Be carefull with the circle saw blade's. I tryed to use one , and the saw turns the wrong direction. So that causes It to keep trying throw the saw at me .


What saw? I've got a Skil HD77 that the blades go on "backwards" (arbor spins clockwise) from a normal circular saw, As long as you match the arrows on the blade with the ones on the saw, I don't see what the problem is.


Andy

wow, I've never seen a skill saw that spins clockwise. I'll have to check which model I have later.

Yeah What I was getting is the CC one's if they jam they kickback.

wow, I've never seen a skill saw that spins clockwise. I'll have to check which model I have later.


HD77 -
http://www.toolbarn.com/images//skil/hd77.jpg


Blades on a worm drive run clockwise because it's on the other side of the motor from regular saw.


Andy

Well I guess I spoke to soon. We have about 25 to 30 straight cuts in 1 3/4
.120 wall DOM and the bullet blade took a dump. 3 carbides are gone and the rest are rounded. This sucks since it worked so well. My buddy is going to drop them an email. We'll see what happens I guess..

You're lucky! I only got 6 tube cuts out of mine before it gave up! Bulllet is replacing it for free. I'm not going to use it on tubing anymore. The blade is only rated for 1/4", I think cutting tube is bad for the carbide because it is an "interrupted" cut, not a solid piece. Also for the first bit of tube you are cutting more than a 1/4" width until it breaks through (top and bottom of the tube) - Square tube would be worse! Anyhow, about what I expected out of a $40 blade!

HD77 -
http://www.toolbarn.com/images//skil/hd77.jpg


Blades on a worm drive run clockwise because it's on the other side of the motor from regular saw.


Andy

True, but when compared to a "regular" direct drive saw (CCW rotation) on the "right side" v/s CW rotation on the "left side" the blade is still spinning the same direction with the teeth oriented to be cutting "up" into the material, so same difference:flipoff2:

I got my little 7 1/4" circ saw blade yesterday, I only plan on cutting <1/4" so hopefully I will have better luck than Migmeister. I think it will work fine for the 16ga I plan on cutting for some floor pans. I hope to put it to work this weekend.

I have a bandsaw for thicker cuts, kinda hard to fit a 4x8 sheet in the bandsaw, and my nibbler and air shears aren't up to the task for 16 ga. I was burning through too many cut off wheels and not getting a very straight cut, even with a chunk of 1x4 board as a straight edge.

For $15, if it sucks I'm not out much.

Those of you that have killed the blades are you cutting on the back side of the piece or using it exactly like the abrasive blades and cutting on the upwards travel of the blade?



http://www.dewalt.com//ProductImages/PC_Graphics/PHOTOS/DEWALT/TOOLS/LARGE/8/DW872%25_F2.jpg

I cut some 16 ga sheet with the Bullet 7 1/4" circ saw blade. Worked very well, nice clean straight cut. :grinpimp: No interupted cuts or anything thicker than 16 ga, but for $15 I'm happy. Even if the blade stripped all the teeth off next time I used it, I'd still be happy. I got the cuts I needed done faster and cleaner than using an abrasive blade.

Very few sparks, just tons of burning hot metal chips, I had safety glasses and ear plugs, but a full face shield would be recommended! Those chips are hot and sharp!

There was no noticable extra strain on the saw, it cut just as easy as if I was cutting a piece of plywood, just clamped a straight edge down and went to town!

Well, the web site still says the 14" blades are back ordered, but I ordered one a got a tracking number today. We'll see :D

Carbide tipped blades should only be used on thicker materials, that is why you are destroying the tips.

The reasoning is that the carbide is a very hard and brittle material, but because of its hardness it cuts steel very well. However, because it is so brittle it does not do well when making an interupted cut or very thin sections where only one tooth is in contact at a time. I would think these would be great for someone cutting a lot of larger solid stock. That way there would be several teeth in contact at all times.

Killed mine. Lasted two cuts, died on the third. Half the teeth are gone. I was cutting an axle tube, so I'm pretty sure it was thick enough. Looks like garbage to me. It's a shame too, because the cuts it survived were nice.

If they send me another one I'll keep it around for aluminum. I'm sure that if my wood blade will survive aluminum, this one will :D

any other updates on the longevity of this blade??

when using aliminum, wipe the blade with some tranny fluid, it will keep the blade from gumming up

FYI, In addition to the 7/14" circ saw balde and the 66T 14" chopsaw balde. They now have a 14" 100T blade for $50. I has more teeth, so it should be a smoother cut.
http://www.bulletindustries.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99_144/products_id/784

I emailed them the other day about my second blade going out right away, but I have not heard anything yet. I will let you know if I do.

Guess its time for a long term update on this thing.

As of yesterday the blade is DEAD.

Still has all of its teeth, but is dull. Dull as in its almost burning through stuff instead of cutting it. Took it off and finnished a project with abrasive blades.

As I've posted previously, technique goes a long way towards having a blade survive in a chopsaw, I've been extremely careful with this thing, and got maybe 100 cuts out of it.

I will be contacting the company next week to see what they say. I'm keeping my hopes up as I really do like this product and its performance, just hope they can find a way to increase longevity.

I know the threads a few months old now but I was wondering if there was any update about the status of the blade and what the manufacturer told you about the life of the blade.

I got one or Christmas, made 2 cuts in 2x3x.125 with the 2" side up, worked great.
Made 6 cuts thru 1.5x.188 flatbar, cut great.
Made 1 cut thru 2x3x.125 with the 3" side up(angled cut)... killed it dead.

Can't even cut thru 1.75 .120W DOM now.

Worthless. Gonna try to get a refund as I don't even care to have it replaced.

Sorry, guess I forgot to update this thread when I updated the one over on OFN.

Here's my updates from there.

Its been a while since my last update, so here it goes.

Contacted Bullit about the dead blade, since I was honest about using it for a while they did not offer a free replacement, fair enough. They did give me a 10% discount on a new blade. I ordered the 100 tooth blade as a replacement and will see how it does. So far I've only used it for cutting some 1.5" aluminum solid rod. Cut through like buttah, but did have a problem with clogging the teeth. The older 66 tooth blade would probably have worked alot better with such soft material. I'm going to give the old blade a shot next time I have some thick AL to cut, its dull but no chipped teeth, so who knows. I may also try having it sharpened since all the teeth are still there with no real visable damage to them.

I'm guessing the origional blade lasted about as long as 4 abrasive blades, so dollar for dollar it worked out about the same, I just got much quicker and cleaner cuts out of the deal. Overall I'm still pretty pleased with the product. Next time I need some grinding supplies I think I'll give them a shot as well since their prices cant be beat.

I'll update after I get some cutting time with the new blade.

I still stand by my theorie that cutting technique plays as much a role in longevity as RPM does with these blades. While I was a bit disapointed with the life span of my first blade, after thinking about how many abrasive blades I would have went through in the same span I broke even but had better cut quality so it was worth it. From the initial web adverts I was expecting alot more life, but so it goes. Granted interrupted cutting is going to be hard on a toothed blade, but thats what I have to deal with cutting square tubing. I seem to have had better luck than most with these things, but I can also get a square cut with an abrasive blade which alot of people have trouble with, and dont often glaze an abrasive (some are just crap and glaze if you look at em wrong, I have a whole box of Bosch blades that I have given up on after the first 3 glazed on the first cut.). Are these carbide blades the end all be all of metal cutting? Definatly not, they are however a step up from the abrasives in my opinion, but I can see myself dropping the dime on a slower RPM saw specifically for carbide blade use such as the Dewalt Multi cutter since I've had so much seccess with it in the past. There are deals on ebay for reconditioned units that make em pretty affordable once you consider the expense of replacing blades either carbide or abrasive on a regular chop saw. I'm going to give this 100 tooth blade a fair shake, see how it goes, and when it expires I'll probably step up to a Dewalt or equivelent saw and call it a done deal. I still have to get around to giving Bullets other products a shot, they have some great prices, once I do I'll post up with how they compare to other manufacturers products and let yall know how they work.

Till next time.....

HD77 -
http://www.toolbarn.com/images//skil/hd77.jpg


Blades on a worm drive run clockwise because it's on the other side of the motor from regular saw.


Andy

sweet a left handed skill saw. I need to get one.

sweet a left handed skill saw. I need to get one.

Nope, those are as right handed as they come :p You'll never see a framer using a conventional (vs. worm drive) circular saw. Watch a lefty try to use a worm drive, it's like watching a monkey and a football after two bottles of Boone's Farm :homer:

Gabe

Nope, those are as right handed as they come :p You'll never see a framer using a conventional (vs. worm drive) circular saw. Watch a lefty try to use a worm drive, it's like watching a monkey and a football after two bottles of Boone's Farm :homer:

Gabe

thats funny, when i frame with my brother and cousin thats pretty much what it looks like all though it sometimes looks like they are going to get some kick back and cut themselves:eek:

Nope, those are as right handed as they come :p You'll never see a framer using a conventional (vs. worm drive) circular saw. Watch a lefty try to use a worm drive, it's like watching a monkey and a football after two bottles of Boone's Farm :homer:

Gabe

Thinking about throwing one of these into an old Skil

As for a worm-drive, umm, it's *kinda* ambidextrous...

Pull tape from left to right, mark, scribe. Saw in left hand with stock resting on right foot secured by right hand. Allows you to leave the line, eat the line, hold the line, etc. Seeing how your kerf is not on the blind side of the blade. Either way...

Framing hi-jack over.

These blades are less than half the cost of Dewalts, so I will be trying one next time I need a blade for my multicutter.

I've found that I have to be very careful even with my Dewalt multicutter or it is easy to ruin blades (don't push hard like an abrasive- let the saw do the work, cut slowly through thin stuff, etc.). I have had Dewalt blades resharpened, but the new ones always cut much better and longer than the used/resharpened ones.

Also, if you're going to buy a multicutter, some of the other brands seem to have better bases. Dewalts is kinda cheesy. If you can find them cheap/reconditioned (like I did, with a free blade), it may be worth it though.


I only see the 100T version on their site now? Hopefully that doesn't mean they discontinued the other one...

I just wanna say that I know how to run a damn chopsaw. I can feel the blade chewing thru the material and let it set it's own pace, I don't push it faster than it needs, I don't hold it back when it wants to eat.
This hybrid fast rpm carbide blade needs more R&D, it doesn't have the ability that it's manufacturer states. 2x3x.125 tube should not have killed it like it did. The blade had less than 10 cuts on it.
There are alot of people who have had these blades wear out far faster than the manufacturer advertises.

Thanks for the update. Ordered one the other day and as long as it lasts longer than a couple of abrasive discs I'll be happy.

On a more positive note, the were happy to refund my money today for the 100 tooth blade I burnt up, so the customer service is good.
I asked him if they had recieved many complaints like this and their response was that he felt like they had gotten a "bad batch" of blades because some people were saying that they had blades last 6 months, and some didn't last a full day. They are looking into it to figure it out. Very cordial during the entire conversation.
I would give it another shot in a year or so, but I ordered a Milwaukee 6190-20 dry cut saw, and I plan to run regular abrasive discs in my chopsaw for the thick or odd jobs that the 6190-20 wouldn't like.

Are there better blades of the same style out there?

Are there better blades of the same style out there?

Not rated for the RPM's that a chop saw turns.

Because of this thread, and a desire to find something better than a chopsaw to cut tubing, I just bought 2 14", 100 t Bullet saw blades. I put one on my old Craftsman chop saw today, and made a couple of cuts.

I don't know anything yet about how long this blade will last, but, I can say I made several cuts today and Damn::D:, this thing cuts fast and smooth. I found myself holding the blade back, since this is what I was ussed to, on the first cut. After that I let it eat. Each cut was made in seconds, and I could touch the end of the tubing right after each cut.

I would have bought one sooner if I knew how well this blade cut.

Long Beard:flipoff2: