ok so here is the scoop on the poop guys. i just bought a 97 wrangler, 5spd, 4.0 motor, nice lift and some meaty tires. lets face it this rig looks pretty good. thats why i bought it:shaking: so anyways im driving it home...about 30 minutes later of straight driving i loose all power..press the gas and it just spits coughs and sputters....then dies. get it towed to the dealer, they hook it up to check it all out...hmm...so they figure its the PCM...430 bucks later im driving home...and bam...just like before after 30 minutes or so of straight driving i'm pulling off the road...no check engine light...nothing...engine is just not working...im guessing it has to do with the air/feul. clogged feul lines? i dunno. well heres the thing...i'm no dummy....i can tell even though this truck is virtually spottless to the untrained eye...it has been swamped in a major way...so i'm guessing maybe its the feul filter? well i find out there is no in-line filter on 97 and newer jeeps! so now i have to take the entire tank out and change it's filter? thats my guess as to whats wrong....please gimme some advice guys this sucks ass! this is the first jeep i have ever owned and i dont want it to be a bad experience.

this is the first jeep i have ever owned and i dont want it to be a bad experience.

Wrong BB. (hint)...

crank position sensor? ignition coil?

yeah i know its the wrong BB but i figured more guys look at this one. one more thing to ad...the longer it sits the longer it will run once i re-start it again...

Well, I know what is wrong but I am going to post it in another section so you can find it there. :flipoff2:

Definitely, drop the tank to get to the filter.

x2 on the CPS and coil.

well i checked the coil with my ohm tester...was alittle low but still within the parameters...so i changed it anyways...guess i'll check the cps tomorrow...damn thing is...... now im too scared to drive it fearing that its gonna quit on me again...gonna check the feul filter on tuesday.

gonna check the feul filter on tuesday.

In fact, you should really just report back on Tuesday anyway, because that's when you'll get the best response to this topic.

Don't forget to check for as clogged CAT!:D

Bring it back to the dealer and tell them they didnt fix the problem. So they sold you a $430 ecm you didnt need. And tell them to find out whats really wrong with it.

Bring it back to the dealer and tell them they didnt fix the problem. So they sold you a $430 ecm you didnt need. And tell them to find out whats really wrong with it.


OK no using logic damn it, It's damn near tuesday.

:flipoff2:


OK Dude wtf? if you brought it to the Jeep dealer and the same thing happens.............


Did they fix it?????????

if the answer is uhhhhhhh no..........


Then just maybe it might make the most sense to bring it back there and figure out why it isn't fixed. And why they charged you for a new ECM


:shaking:

Have you pulled the codes yet?

Stop throwing $$$ at it and let the vehicles computer do it's job. If it's the coil/CPS/fuel pump/clogged cat/etc, the computer will tell you that.

this sounds like a problem that I experienced some years ago with my 98 wrangler
It was a faulty fuel pump-fuel pressure sending unit, as you know the fuel filter is built into the pump assembly.

the repair involves removing the gas tank and replacing the pump assembly /fuel sending unit.
I'm not sure how much it costs, mine was repaired under warranty.

Have you pulled the codes yet?

Stop throwing $$$ at it and let the vehicles computer do it's job. If it's the coil/CPS/fuel pump/clogged cat/etc, the computer will tell you that.

X2

Have you pulled the codes yet?

Stop throwing $$$ at it and let the vehicles computer do it's job. If it's the coil/CPS/fuel pump/clogged cat/etc, the computer will tell you that.

Codes will sometimes tell you but they aren't a magic bullet. In fact of all the things I've had go wrong over the years, none of them have been fixed by a code that was thrown. I've fought with several cars that had stalling issues that either threw no codes at all or threw simple ignitions codes that were of absolutely no use in actually determining the problem.

Sometimes the codes will even lie to you. I had a Sport-Trac (company truck) that had a check engine light on when I picked it up from the guy I was replacing. I stopped at AutoZone and had them pull the codes. EGR insufficient and EGR excessive. No brainer, EGR must be stuck right? AZ was all set to sell me a new EGR valve but since it was a company truck I was planning on taking it to a shop anyway, but just wanted to know if it was something critical or not. The actual problem was not the EGR valve it was a sensor (I forget which one) that when if fails it throws the EGR codes exactly like if the EGR was bad.

Codes are a troubleshooting aid, but they rarely do all the work for you unless you get lucky.