I am looking into getting a yj and putting a suspension lift on it to clear 33's. What kind of lift should i look at, I would like a nice ridding jeep but also going for budget since it is a second vehicle. I know that budget doesn't always allow for a good ride but looking for opinions on how to raise the jeep and have a decent ride for cheap. Thanks for your help.

I have the Rubicon Express 4" lift and love it. Great ride and it clears 33's. I wouldn't waste money on any cheaper kits. Also get a SYE to clear out the driveline vibes. This will not be cheap. I ended up paying about $1,300 to $1,400. If you want to lift it you might as well save up and do it right.

:D

I have the Rubicon Express 4" lift and love it. Great ride and it clears 33's. I wouldn't waste money on any cheaper kits. Also get a SYE to clear out the driveline vibes. This will not be cheap. I ended up paying about $1,300 to $1,400. If you want to lift it you might as well save up and do it right.

:D
Although I agree, I got antsy and bit the bullet and ordered the 4" Rough Country lift. Install was fairly easy and ride quality is excellent. Yea my driveshaft pulled out damn near 3/4" but I don't have any driveline vibes. I had a small vibe at low speeds, installed some 2* shims in the front and now my rig is vibe-free all the time. SYE and CV shaft will come soon enough.
You'll see a LOT of negative comments about the RC kit and you'll see almost as many positive reviews, but I'll tell you I'm really happy with my kit. The only thing I had trouble with during install was the stock pitman arm removal, but it sounds like most people have that same problem. Ride quality on-road is pretty good, I could make it a bit better with some different shocks (I opted for the Nitro shocks with the kit, not saying that's what makes it rough but I bet some RS9000's would help), on a rough road you know you're on a rough road, but it's not bad, at highway speeds it's incredibly smooth. What about flex? Well, I've only had my lift for a little over a month but with the RE 5" shackles paired with the lift I can tuck my 33's pretty good, my flares limit me a little bit but that will change soon enough. Hell even if you take your time and slowly bend your stock brake lines you can make good use of the brake line relocators. I'd still upgrade, wouldn't hurt. I haven't yet, but it's on my to-do list.

Honestly, I can't really comment on the long-term quality of the Rough Country lift, but so far I have zero regrets. What little abuse I've put it through off road it's done great. If it's a DD Jeep and you won't be abusing the hell out of it off road I'd go with the RC lift. Can't beat the price! I'll upgrade to the RE 4.5" X-Duty leafs down the road, but I'll wait till these are shot.

I've got some pics of my rig with the llift alone and after adding the shackles as well. I'll post 'em up if you'd like :smokin:

Dolan

No No No....

Those Rough Country Springs suck ass. Just wait a little and yor rig will start leaning to one side as they flatten out.

If you are going to lift your rig, do not get all ansy and go cheap becuase you will regret it and just spend more $$ in the long run. It is WAY better to do it right the first time. Trust me on this one.

Save the cash and get the Rubicon Express kit with the upgraded springs, or if you REALLY want to man up, go SOA.

Be patient, save the cash, and do it right.

No No No....

Those Rough Country Springs suck ass. Just wait a little and yor rig will start leaning to one side as they flatten out.

If you are going to lift your rig, do not get all ansy and go cheap becuase you will regret it and just spend more $$ in the long run. It is WAY better to do it right the first time. Trust me on this one.

Save the cash and get the Rubicon Express kit with the upgraded springs, or if you REALLY want to man up, go SOA.

Be patient, save the cash, and do it right.
I've read that a lot of people have had problems with RC springs sagging, and I've read that a lot of people haven't had any issues. For the amount that I spent on the lift I'll be dissapointed if the springs sag out, but when/if it happens I'll upgrade then.
I know TJ's are way different than YJ's, but a friend of mine has had a RC 4" lift on his TJ for a little over two years with no sagging and no complaints. I don't know if coil springs sag like leafs do but I don't see why they wouldn't.

It seems like it's a 50/50 split between good and bad with Rough Country. I guess I'll find out if I'm an unlucky one :clown:

Rubicon express Springs and Blurb:

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Img_Products/Pn/4/1744/Photographs/0/324.jpg

LEAF SPRING YJ 4" EXTREME DUTY
Part #RE1455
"Extreme-Duty leaf springs are the best springs money can buy. We spared no expense when designing this product. We have carefully developed a leaf spring that you can count on to provide maximum articulation, smooth ride, increased load capacity for all the gear, durability and structural integrity to handle the extra torque from larger tires and lower gears. Some of the features include: Military wrap spring eyes, diamond cut leaves, bolt on spring clamps, antifriction sliders, top grade US steel, and the best quality control in the industry."


Granted, thats a lot of Marketing mumbo-jumbo, but compare it to Rough Country's blurb. I am not always one to believe the marketing BS but if they had the goods, they would brag about it:

"Leaf Springs are double tapered with teflon pad inserts"

Don't get me wrong, I am not slamming on your rig becuase you have a rough country lift.....I had one for about a year too. I just think if you are gonna spend on a lift, do it right the first time and do not waste your money on sub-par chit like I did, to only regret it later.

You are always gonna get some good reviews on Chit products from some people becuase they do not want to admit they bought weak-ass shit.

Case in point: Revolver Shackles and the Super 35 Kit.

Lol don't worry, the last thought in my mind was that you were bashing my rig. Even if someone was bashing it I wouldn't care, I know it's far from a lot of rigs on here, but I hope to do little by little over time. And I like it the way it is now :D
I wanted to get my rig in the air more for looks, but after reading up more and more about what I could do with what I've got, and what I can make it capable of doing, I started wishing I just saved up and waited to buy even the RE standard kit. I do have to say one thing about Rough Country, the guy I talked to on the phone about my LR sitting a good 1/2" lower than the RR (He says it was like that stock, I'm gonna swap the springs around this weekend and see if that's the case or if it's the spring). When I had trouble with the bolts fitting through on my shackles the guy from RE was a hell of a lot more helpful and courteous!

Thanks for all the repleys. It's nice to get the pros and cons of the different lifts. Where is the best place to get the rubicon express kit from? Also is there anything else resonable cheap i should do along with the lift? Like shackles, they just are longer shackles to give more flex right? would they compramise the ride quality at all? As of right now i am on the hunt for a 91 or newer yj with a 4.0(would be nice) or 2.5L. If you can think of anything else(with budget in mind and the fact i'm not going to be extreme offroading) i should get along with the lift, could you list the stuff and rough price please. Thanks again for all your help.

Thanks for all the repleys. It's nice to get the pros and cons of the different lifts. Where is the best place to get the rubicon express kit from? Also is there anything else resonable cheap i should do along with the lift? Like shackles, they just are longer shackles to give more flex right? would they compramise the ride quality at all? As of right now i am on the hunt for a 91 or newer yj with a 4.0(would be nice) or 2.5L. If you can think of anything else(with budget in mind and the fact i'm not going to be extreme offroading) i should get along with the lift, could you list the stuff and rough price please. Thanks again for all your help.

Depending on your location, you might as well just look for a YJthat already has a lift on it. Chances are they've already re-geared the diffs which would cost you just as much as the lift, because 33s on 3.07s wont be much fun. No one expects to get what they put into their jeep in mods when they sell it, save yourself some money (for an axle swap later down the road) and the trouble of dealing with old rusty parts.

If you do buy a YJ that already has mods, avoid anything over a 1" body lift and a 1" shackle lift.

My .02, FWIW:
RE 4" lift (I think it is the RE5515 kit??).
Good shocks (do not skimp here. I think I have RS9000's).
If you are staying with the D35, super 35 kit with ARB.
SYE and new driveshaft (Also, do not skimp here. The stock slip yoke is junk).
Do not use a transfer case drop kit. They are just expensive shovels.
New spring perches welded on so you do not have to use shims.
Extended braided brake lines, not the brake line extension stuff. The stock rubber hose is prone to expanding, where as the braided stuff is not. Will give you more positive brakes.
I would personally not do shackle lifts. The do have a tendency to rotate your front axle and it feels like you are driving on your toes.
1" body lift. No more.
Revolver shackles.
Bushwacker fender flares and cut off the body what is no longer needed to support the flares. (I am adding a 1" tube around my wheel well opening and bolting the flares into that for a bit more strength should my tires rub. I am running 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws and rub "just a little".)

If you do get a YJ, go for the glory and get the 4.0 with fuel injection. If that is out of your ball park, get the 4-banger and go to 4.88's (a mod that you should do regardless).

If that is still out of your league, get a TJ. There is one here at www.buildajeep.com with 35's, locker, and 4-banger for like $7000 and it is a 2000.

Just a few thoughts. Hope I helped more than hindered.

i have a rusty's 4" lift that has been good to me so far, though rustys customer service sucks. i would also recomend that you be pateint save up and do it right, for starters you will need the lift, id say for 33's, you should run a 4" or go 32's and a 2.5" if its just for looks. with the 4" you will def want some 5" shackles to optimize your performance. i used the autozone cheapies, and while some would call me a wuss, ive beat them a few times and have had no problems. you will want a sye and ds, ive found them installed and used locally for around 300 smackers. search around your local forums and find what you need.

patience will get you cheaper used parts, that come already broken in, but again they are used. deals are out there but you have to find them.

i found a new pair of front springs two nights ago for $125 which new would have been $210 plus shipping.

If you are staying with the D35, super 35 kit with ARB.

Revolver shackles.


:eek:

If you have spent ANY time reading pirate, HELL NO on both these recommendations.

The D35 is garbage and for the amount of money you are spending on it with the super 35 kit and ARB, you may as well swap in an 8.8. If you do not believe me SEARCH PIRATE. There must be 30 threads on this topic alone.

Oh yeah, and I know from experience becuase my dumb ass bought the Super 35 kit a few years back.....

Revolver Shackles......search that too, you will see.

I kinda agree with everything else. Shackle lifts suck, no more than a 1" body lift on a wrangler (I learned that one first hand too)

x24,683 dont keep the dana 35, you might keep it in a lifted rig for a while, but with any kind of real wheeling, it wont keep you wheeling, and it will break. dont sink a penny into it that you dont have to, and save for an 8.8 or a 9". also, while shackle lifts do suck, with lifted springs you must match with the proper length shackle for the best performance.

also, i would recommend going with a bds lift, their "no fine print warranty" cant be beat. ive heard if you want to trade springs for a different size they are more than happy to help too.

If you are on a budget and aren't really looking to go offroad often go with these three things

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=TJ3K&Category_Code=sus_tj_kit

http://www.quadratec.com/products/26028_001.htm

you can do the upgrade for 100 on rustys for the motor mounts and body lift,

4 in. of lift 1,000 less, will retain the stock ride

x24,683 dont keep the dana 35, you might keep it in a lifted rig for a while, but with any kind of real wheeling, it wont keep you wheeling, and it will break. dont sink a penny into it that you dont have to, and save for an 8.8 or a 9". also, while shackle lifts do suck, with lifted springs you must match with the proper length shackle for the best performance.

also, i would recommend going with a bds lift, their "no fine print warranty" cant be beat. ive heard if you want to trade springs for a different size they are more than happy to help too.

I've seen a lot of posts from guys on JeepForum that BDS will swap out your springs if the sag/snap, no questions asked. You really can't beat that kind of a warranty. X3 on the Super 35 kit too, I was almost going to go this route but found out that it's a waste of $ and I can build up a 44 for around the same price as rebuilding my 35, mine's making some noise so it's a good excuse for me to spend the money on a 44, or a Ford 9" if I come across one (I want a housing or complete rear that's already been cut down and is set up for a SUA YJ).
I'm happy with my RE shackles, but I also never tested the flex with my stockers, my RF shackle was so screwed up I didn't want to take a chance and break anything. The boomerangs in the rear had to have helped though, I've got quite a bit of flex in the rear. Front does OK but I haven't tried it with the sway bar unhooked and no trac-bar. The shackles helped the ride out a lot too, but my stock bushing were FROZEN in the frame, hence a shitty ass ride.
I've also heard that you can save yourself some money on the SYE/CV driveshaft mod by using a stock XJ front driveshaft, just needs to be cut down and rebalanced. If it truly does work it will save you an arm and a leg over a new CV driveshaft. I'm going to look into it more, if it really does work I'll go to Pick N Pull in the next couple weeks and get one for myself.

FWIW I'm a n00b with all this stuff too, I'm just passing along the information that's been relayed on to me and things I've come to find on my own. So if anything from my posts causes any problems with anyone that reads them, you're on your own :grinpimp:

Dolan