the box on my tow rig is pouring fluid out by the steering shaft. can i just pull the shaft free and replace the one seal. i have never torn into one and i am looking to save some time. i need the rig this weekend to go to clayton. thanks mike

This may of may not work for you, but here goes.

According to the International Harvester manual for the Scout II power steering box. Remove the pitman arm, and c-clip retainer. Start the engine, the pressure from the pump should push the seals out of the bottom of the housing. You may need to rock the wheel back and forth to build pressure. I assume this is going to make one hell of a mess. The replace the seals, install the c-clip and pitman arm.

Or you can do like I did, remove the box, pull the shaft, pry out the old seals, and reassemble with new ones.

Joe

it is the seal that is on the box where the steering wheel hooks up, not where the steering shaft comes out and hooks to the pitman arm. i hope i am describing this right. the input shaft may be a better way of wording it. thanks mike

When I used to repair forklifts, we would put an air hose to the line to pressurize the system to blow the packing (seal) out...I'd try that before using the pump to blow fluid through.

Either way...IT WILL MAKE ONE HELL OF A MESS:D

Yeah, just about any parts house should be able to get "rebuild kits" with seals and bearings, etc. I know Napa has them.

If it's like the Saginaw's used on GM's I figured out a way to replace the input seall without taking the input shaft out (the way it is supose to be done :) ).
Pull the box. Lay it on it's side on the bench. Remove the C-clip that keeps the seal in. Get about a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill a couple holes into the seal 180 deg from each other. By laying it on it's side the shavings will fall away. The holes will let you crush the seal a little and you can pry it out with a awl.
Just be REAL CAREFUL not to nick the shaft or the housing when your drilling the seal. Flush the end out with some brake cleaner to make sure no shavings are in there. Put some grease on the shaft and sealing surface so you don't screw up the new seal as you slide it over the shaft. Deep well socket will fit over the shaft so you can drive it in.
Autozone had the parts for my K5. I think it was like $4 for the input seal and $11 for the output seals (there are two stacked). The ouputs are easy. With the c-clip out fire it up and give it full left crank and they will blow out. Leave the pitman arm on to catch the seals so you can see how they stack and where to put the spacer. REAL messy!

When removing worn seals, you can always drive a self tapping screw into 'em and pull with a vice grip.

i just picked up the seal and dust cover for the input shaft, the main question i have is can i change it on the truck without to much hassel. as in remove the c clip and pop the seal out with a awl or screw driver. i really don't want to pull the box. thanks mike

If you can get the steering shaft out of the way I don't see why not. Get a vaucume cleaner to use if you do my drilling trick. On my truck I couldn't get the rag joint off the shaft with the box bolted on the frame.

I would suggest using a screw and then pry them out. But you need to make sure that the shaft isn't moving around too much. This will just ruin the new seal. If you want to call me at the shop i'll be glad to walk you throught the process.

i just got done doing it on the truck, it was a pita but not terrible. had to use a screw driver to get the seal out but it worked fine. now the damn 454 is running like shit and pissing me off. i swear i am beginning to this me and this truck don't belong together. one more fawk up and im getting a dodge with a cummings and a stick. mike