I am currently running a 2200 stall. My trans is full manuel reverse pattern with full engine brakeing.

I am currently running a 2200 stall. My trans is full manuel reverse pattern with full engine brakeing.

Is that with the TH350 trans hooked to a Toy T-case?
Also, what brand did you use?
Any part numbers?

TH350 adapted to a Dana 300. I got my converter from Jegs for about 100.

Alright, time to bring this post back from the dead.:smokin:
Project Double Wide is under the knife again. After a recent trip to Hollister and climbing Tank Trap I blew the 14 bolt yoke and bent the T-case output. 42's and tons are not kind to Toyota T-cases.:laughing: Since I had to tear everything apart to repair the T-case, I just kept going until there was nothing left but an empty shell.
Now comes the fun.
-Paned 4.3L
-Auto-magic T350
-AA adapter
-Dual Ultimate Crawler
-2000 stall converter
-B&M shifter

Also, getting tired of 2 seats, so know it will be a 4 seater!:D

I'll post up pics of the gutted rig and the new goodies as they go in tom. May take a little time, since this is all on "Daddy" time.:D
Hoping to keep the original interior and floor boards since they were such a pain to make. Trying to keep it a flat belly, but may have to drop for the T350.

So, since it will still have frame rails and Toyota T-cases would I still be considered an F-toy?

So, since it will still have frame rails and Toyota T-cases would I still be considered an F-toy?

F-Yeah!

F-Yeah!

How's it going man?!! Too bad you didn't get that break on film. I'll be having another buggy/beer day sometime. Get me on your dang site would ya!

sup


I got around 10 min of footage but I stoped fliming about 3 sec before "SNAP-BANG-BOOM" :shaking:

My lady told me you were at JV for KOH....................WTF falker :homer:

Give me a call for the next beer/wrench day, I haven't been drunk off someone else's beer in a while.:grinpimp:

Remind me what the screen name was that you signed up with, same as here?

Haha! I wish I made it to KOH. Naw, I just was wearing that shirt out at Hollister that I won from RockWear. Also, that screen name is the same as here.
I have a whole beer fridge of beer and no one to drink it with.:D
Soon.

Alright, time to bring this post back from the dead.:smokin:
Project Double Wide is under the knife again. After a recent trip to Hollister and climbing Tank Trap I blew the 14 bolt yoke and bent the T-case output. 42's and tons are not kind to Toyota T-cases.:laughing: Since I had to tear everything apart to repair the T-case, I just kept going until there was nothing left but an empty shell.
Now comes the fun.
-Paned 4.3L
-Auto-magic T350
-AA adapter
-Dual Ultimate Crawler
-2000 stall converter
-B&M shifter

Also, getting tired of 2 seats, so know it will be a 4 seater!:D

I'll post up pics of the gutted rig and the new goodies as they go in tom. May take a little time, since this is all on "Daddy" time.:D
Hoping to keep the original interior and floor boards since they were such a pain to make. Trying to keep it a flat belly, but may have to drop for the T350.

So, since it will still have frame rails and Toyota T-cases would I still be considered an F-toy?


No offense, but how is that going to solve your breakage issues? Are you counting on the auto to keep things from breaking? If you're tearing it all out, go with a stronger case and forget about it. If you keep having problems it will all have to be pulled and re-worked again to fit an Atlas or Stak.....do it right, my $.02

... I have a whole beer fridge of beer and no one to drink it with.:D
Soon.
So I bail early one time and now I'm "no one"?

No offense, but how is that going to solve your breakage issues? Are you counting on the auto to keep things from breaking? If you're tearing it all out, go with a stronger case and forget about it. If you keep having problems it will all have to be pulled and re-worked again to fit an Atlas or Stak.....do it right, my $.02

I totally agree with you Wilson. Not solving anything. I was planning on putting a Longfield output on the T-case for now. I have a D300 with 4 to 1 gears but I don't think that is going to be much stronger than a Toy T-case with a chromo output, but I may be wrong. Wish I could afford a Atlas:shaking:

So I bail early one time and now I'm "no one"?

Your out!!!
There's the circle of trust and your outside the circle.:laughing:
You will always be the first guy I call. However, I know not to give you beer before you work. :D

I totally agree with you Wilson. Not solving anything. I was planning on putting a Longfield output on the T-case for now. I have a D300 with 4 to 1 gears but I don't think that is going to be much stronger than a Toy T-case with a chromo output, but I may be wrong. Wish I could afford a Atlas:shaking:

Throw 32 spl outputs in the D300 and rock it (at least the rear). Im4yotas is beating his with a lot more motor and no auto. If you were going to go single case, maybe a 700R4 for the deep first gear. My 4.3 Atlas creeps in 1st. I do miss a stockish low range, there's just no way to squeeze one into my fj40.

Throw 32 spl outputs in the D300 and rock it (at least the rear). Im4yotas is beating his with a lot more motor and no auto.

I beat that fawker like it owes me money!:laughing:

That breakage sounds like the driveshaft U joints were binding. I've seen the same thing when you don't limit the droop of an already steep and short shaft. Those Toy joints are tough as hell for not even flinching after binding and bending the ouput shaft, that particular one I saw was under full on WOT:smokin: Sounded like a birf broke but it kept pulling.

Well to be totally honest I wasn't exactly being nice to it when it happened. Climbing the a waterfall on Tank Trap at Hollister Hills, beating the ever livin' piss out of it. I also forgot to mention that my rear axle was wrapping in a huge way. Which is why the 14-bolt yoke broke.

What's an adapter go for to adapt the T350 to D300? Anyone got a used one they want to sell?
Also, what brand?

There is a way to do it with a stock GM adapter from a 700R4 to 208. You will need to change the input on the D300 to 27 spl and run a spacer (clocking ring) to get the proper engagement depth. You will also need to elongate one hole on the adapter. <---How I adapted my Atlas. AA makes an adapter that works, but involves swapping out the trans. output (I believe) and is more $$$

:smokin:There is a way to do it with a stock GM adapter from a 700R4 to 208. You will need to change the input on the D300 to 27 spl and run a spacer (clocking ring) to get the proper engagement depth. You will also need to elongate one hole on the adapter. <---How I adapted my Atlas. AA makes an adapter that works, but involves swapping out the trans. output (I believe) and is more $$$

Fawkin' sweet!!:smokin:
Any writeups / pics. on this swap?
:D:D

No because, I never let it materialize once I decided to go with the Atlas. Since I didn't have a D300, or any of the upgrade parts laying around and needed the larger footprint of the Atlas, I bought one. I did personally talk to the guys at both Stak and JB conversions about this. They hadn't done one before, but it was just a matter of getting the right width ring...everything else is off the shelf.

Wish I could afford a Atlas:shaking:

Sell your manjina, put it on craigs list. :laughing:

Sell your manjina, put it on craigs list. :laughing:

Seriously... I know you're starting with some parts, but when I looked into building a case (205 or D300) comparable to an atlas, it was an easy choice. I don't regret one $.01 of it. Pm orangefj45 for the hookup.:smokin:

I know, I know. Sell what I got and get an Atlas.
However, check out this post on an adapter.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222633&highlight=t350+d300

BTW Wilson, OrangeFJ45 has the hookup, I think I sold him a 700R4 recently.

I know, I know. Sell what I got and get an Atlas.
However, check out this post on an adapter.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222633&highlight=t350+d300

BTW Wilson, OrangeFJ45 has the hookup, I think I sold him a 700R4 recently.

Keep in mind he's showing an empty case ;) It's likely you will need a spacer of some sort, but you can use a factory "adapter"....Shoulda kept the 700, the deep 1st is :smokin:

Keep in mind he's showing an empty case ;) It's likely you will need a spacer of some sort, but you can use a factory "adapter"....Shoulda kept the 700, the deep 1st is :smokin:

Ouch! I know. I regret it everyday. I'll find another one.:D

Bringing this post back from the dead.
So here is what I have completed while chasing around my baby girl. This build is taking forever.
So far I have gutted the chassis in preparation for the new engine, trans., and t-case.

The plan is to run a Toyota propane kit from GotPropane on a TBI 4.3.
According to Carey this hasn't been done, but said there is no reason it shouldn't work. My first attempt was to drill and tap the original TBI intake. Then I neede to slope one of the ports to line up with the primary of the Toyota throttle plate and. This didn't work out so well since the throttle linkage hit the TBI manifold.

My first attempt yielded another door stop. Since the throttle linkage hit the manifold, I decided to notch the manifold out so the linkage could pivot. I found out how thick the manifold is the hard way. Also, I eyeballed the drilling and tapping which made the studs a little catiwampus.

So I decided to build an adapter to mate the two together. This was a little more complicated than I was hoping. I used the stock gasket spacer thingy:D to figure out the best way to mount the adapter. I found that I could use one of the factory TBI manifold threads as a starting point.
I then lined up the holes and marked where to drill and grind out the port.

I did all the grinding using a Rotozip with a burr wheel. This took forever and I had to keep cleaning the aluminum out of the bit with a screwdriver

Next I built the adapter. Mind you I have no machining equip. So I improvised. Using the gasket spacer thingy:D from the stock Toyota throttle plate I traced the outline. Then I drill the holes the same size lining up with the throttle plate. Now I know that the primary and secondary are different sizes but who care that one hole is bigger. As long as its not smaller than the throttle plate hole. I found this at a local yard for free.
After drilling all the holes, I cut it out with a Sawsall.:shaking:
Then of course I had to give it the F-toy stamp.:smokin:

Here it is almost complete.
The next issue I had to address was the distributor. The stock one is computer controlled and I no longer have a computer. So I ended up getting a HEI distributor with a vacuum advance from ProComp Electronics on Ebay for $75 new.:smokin: Hopefully this works. The thing is huge compared to the stock computer controlled unit. I also removed the AC pump and put in a AC delete setup and made it much cleaner looking.
I also cleaned up the engine a little and threw a fresh coat of paint over it and maybe a little paint over some grease.:shaking::laughing:

The next issue was the stock oil filter setup. The stock setup involves a sandwich plate that sends oil to a remote oil filter setup and then to the radiator to be cooled. I wanted to make things as simple as possible so I decided to rid myself of the remote setup and just put on a filter. I thought this was going to be an easy task. Turned out to be a nightmare. Summit has nothing to do this and ended up sending me the wrong part.:shaking:

There is a threaded female hole inside the block where the sandwich plate was. This hole is a 3/4"-16 hole. I finally found the hollow stud at a local speed shop that measures 1 1/4" long. The funny thing is that the one end would screw in but the filter side would not accept a Chevy filter. Or a Toyota. Ended up fitting a Ford Ranger filter.:shaking:
Go figure! Nothing about this build has been easy.

Now I have to chase down all the electrical for the engine. :D
The next issue was to figure out how I was going to mount my brand new PSC TC pump to the Chevy motor. Turns out that the stock canned ham pump puts out more volume than the TC pump at a pretty decent pressure, according to PSC. They recommended keeping the stock pump to run my hydraulics over their TC pump. So I rebuilt the leaky pump and now have to get a special adapter that bolts to the back of the pump and adapts it to the PSC stuff. Here's the fitting I'm talking about.

Hopefully the steering won't be as much as a pain as the rest of it.
Next I had to figure out how to cool this beast down. Turns out the stock radiator that I kept out of the donor Chevy Blazer is too wide to fit in the engine compartment of the F-toy. So I decided to try and cool this V6 with the stock Toyota 4-runner radiator. Hopefull with the Ford Taurus fan that I picked up out of a car we tore apart at work will keep it cool.
I think I will just have to wire the Taurus fan on its highest speed to keep it cool. Anyone ever try to cool a 6 with a 4cyl. radiator? Here is the fan and all its chit.:D

Lucky for me the Taurus fan shroud literally fits the stock Toyota radiator perfectly like it was made for it. :smokin:

Next thing I had to adress was the transmission. I am running a T350 trans mated to a D300 using a junkyard adapter setup. The only way this was goint to work was using a T350 4x4 trans. Unfortunately the only T350's I have are wrong. One has the special Downey output to a yota case. The other one is a freshly built 2wd. tranny. So now I am going to try to swap the 2wd output with a 4x4 output shaft. I heard this was an easy swap but it requires completely tearing the trans. apart. I will let you know how it goes. A local shop has the output for $25. But says he'll put it in for $150. I think I might pay him to do it, but we will see.

Onto the t-case. I am ditching the Toyota stuff because now that I run the 42's and tons, this is the next weak link that I broke recently which transpired the current buildup. After doing MUCH research, I found that the D300 would bolt directly to the T350 using a stock Chevy adapter. This adapter can be found at PNP for cheap. Mine came of an 80's Blazer that had a 700r4 to a NP231 t-case. Their are two different adapters they came with. One has a tall mounting base and one has a short. You want the short. Now to connect the two you need a spud shaft. Just so happens that AA sells the needed spud shaft.
When I called AA, some said it wouldn't work and I needed their kit.:shaking:
I call again with the part number and the guy says it will work just fine and people do it all the time. Only thing is that their spud shaft rides on a bearing. Mine will not, but it is aparently a tight fit. Here is the spud shaft and the stock Chevy adapter.

This is were I really LUCKED out. A guy in our 4x4 club had a D300 sitting in his garage down at the Hammers. The t-case was out of his wifes old Jeep. He took it out in favor of stock D300 gears. My plan was to just use his case. But I found out it already had 4.1 gears installed. Saaweet.:smokin:
Free is always a good price and had it shipped up.
When it arrived I was even more STOKED. Not only did it have the Tera 4-1 kit but it was complete with a new AA HD output on the rear.:smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin:
So now I'm super stoked.
Next I am going to modify my other broken D300 shift rail assembly to have a twin stick setup. I heard this isn't very difficult but need some help finding info. on this. Searching the Interenet only had some various pics. that don't really describe the process.

I also have another broken D300 that had some Tera 4-1 gears. One of the gears was chipped and cracked but the rest looked perfect. I called up Tera and they said to send it in so they could look at it. 4 days later I had a replacement gear on my doorstep for FREE!!!!:smokin:
Now I have a second backup Tera 4-1 set.

Next I will be bolting this all together and trying to hang it in the chassis. Hopefully I won't have to do too many mods. to the existing floor to get it all to fit. Stay tuned.

Thats some good tech on the 4.3 and propane. Thanks for updating us. What model impco is that adapted to the 4.3? 225?

Looks good. Can't wait to see how it runs.

The twin stick is nothing more than hooking the levers up. This will get you front lo, rear lo and 4wd hi.

Thats some good tech on the 4.3 and propane. Thanks for updating us. What model impco is that adapted to the 4.3? 225?

Actually its a model 200. Carey said that this is the same model that he uses on the Jeep 4.0L engines. He said it should work but might lack a little on the top end. We shall see. Might have to go up to a bigger one later, but hopefully it will work.

The twin stick is nothing more than hooking the levers up. This will get you front lo, rear lo and 4wd hi.

Definately want this on my D300. I've done some searching and have found a bunch of pictures on the shifters themselves but not the mods to the shift rails or how it was done. Also found tons of dead links. Have you seen any writeups on this mod? Thanks for your help.:D

No links, but I've done it. Modding the shift rails is only necessary if you want front hi (unless mine was just sloppy?). You can pm Im4yotas if you'd like. I was too scared to run the rig that way so I ran one shifter, but was setup to use 2 stock D300 shifters. Hooking them up was one of the first things he did and then the parts started flying.

It's funny how some people still trip out when I front dig. I used it to turn arounda couple of times last weekend and each time, someoen was staring.

So all I have to do is put one stick per shift rail. Just put two shifters on this sucker and I have front dig capability? Also, I just want to make sure that with this setup I can't shift the front into low and the rear into hi and ruin the t-case? I'll PM Im4Yotas.
Wow, that's easy then! Shouldn't be a problem.

It won't go into different gear front to rear unless you modify the shift rails wrong. But you should only have to mod the rails if you want to add front only hi range. I had mine all the way apart to put in 32 sp outputs, and the rails were all stock and had the detent pills. This still lets me have front only low range. Might not be so good for an auto, because I usually end up using 2nd or 3rd gear for a good hard dig.

There's a really good writeup somewhere on here showing exactly where to notch the rails for front hi. Keep searching or try bumping the threads with dead links for updated links.

Might take a while to get used to the shifting. There is definately a finesse to getting it to pop into and out of front only easily...

I read through most of the thread and love it!! You wouldn't happen to Know how tall it is at ride height? looking to do something with a beat up taco.:smokin:

It won't go into different gear front to rear unless you modify the shift rails wrong. But you should only have to mod the rails if you want to add front only hi range. I had mine all the way apart to put in 32 sp outputs, and the rails were all stock and had the detent pills. This still lets me have front only low range. Might not be so good for an auto, because I usually end up using 2nd or 3rd gear for a good hard dig.

There's a really good writeup somewhere on here showing exactly where to notch the rails for front hi. Keep searching or try bumping the threads with dead links for updated links.

Might take a while to get used to the shifting. There is definately a finesse to getting it to pop into and out of front only easily...


So, I should still have front low only by just running twin sticks without modifying the rails. I may just not modify the rails at first and see how it does. I will keep looking for the rails pics. I found them a long time ago and haven't been able to find them again. Should have bookmarked them. Oh well. Thanks for the help.:smokin:

looking to do something with a beat up taco.



Eat it, then beat it up again.




:smokin:

Got a good day in on the buggy. Finally have the engine/tranny/t-case hanging on straps in the buggy.:smokin::D I never thought the day would come. Had to do some modifications to the floor and will next be fabbing up the motor mounts and t-case crossmember.

I noticed that the stock exhaust manifolds are pretty tight. What have you guys done to help this problem. Are their special headers that hug tighter to the engine for a Toyota???

I also got the Taurus fan mounted to the stock 4cyl. radiator. It fits like it was made for it. I will post up pics later.

front lo should be fine with the auto. I have no complaints with my 4.3 atlas, 700R4 and front digs with 42's. I think a hi range dig would load the convertor a lot.

Saweet!!:smokin:
Making those up next.:D

Anyone have any experience with the headers??

I'm running the Sanderson one's.

I'm running the Sanderson one's.


Where's my falking ram?????????

You may have to order one. My guy has been out of town working.

Thanks for the help on the headers, I'm checking into that.
I think I'm not going to be building for a couple of weeks. I ended up spraining my ankle pretty bad and can't exactly walk right now.:shaking:

WTF Jesse, did you sleep moon-walk off the deck again? :laughing:

Whats up with the Fireman Olympics this weekend, are you out?

Hobble your ass to the meeting tonight and I'll buy ya a :beer:

http://4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/

This is the article I used. I agree that you probably wont need front only high range and you also have to half disassemble the 300 to get the shfts out to do this mod. I only did it because I went with DD machines box for rocks in my runner and so I can run 1:1 2.7:1 or 7.1:1 in front only. The shaft swap isn't that hard. I got a book on Th350 by Ron Sessions and it walks you through everything real good.

Hobble your ass to the meeting tonight and I'll buy ya a :beer:

Wish I could have made it but my ankle is the size of a coconut.:D
Also, I injured it trying to save a guy from getting run over in the Firefighter Olympics.:shaking:
Hope to wheel with you again soon.

http://4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/

This is the article I used. I agree that you probably wont need front only high range and you also have to half disassemble the 300 to get the shfts out to do this mod. I only did it because I went with DD machines box for rocks in my runner and so I can run 1:1 2.7:1 or 7.1:1 in front only. The shaft swap isn't that hard. I got a book on Th350 by Ron Sessions and it walks you through everything real good.

Thanks for the link Willflow! That was the one I was trying to find with the pics. of the grinded down shift rail. I think for now I am just going to run the twin sticks without modding the rails. I'll try it in Low range for now.
I'm also going to check out that book. I wonder if I can get that at my local parts place?

This was the pic that I needed.:D

I got my copy of that book off ebay for 3 dollars plus shipping.

Sweet!
I'll be checking into that ASAP

Even though I laid up with a bum ankle I somehow still made some progress the other day.
Got my adapter from PSC to adapt the rear of the stock canned ham power steering pump on the 4.3 to the PSC full hydro kit. The kit eliminates the stock around the pump reservoir and utilizes their reservoir. Also got the fitting that eliminates the stock high pressure fitting.
While I was at it I got a new high pressure valve to hot rod the pump.
According to PSC the stock pump will put out more volume than the TC pump but not as high a pressure. This new valve will now also give it more pressure. Can't wait to see what it will feel like. The TC already moved boulders and could lift the buggy. Now it will probably just be easier to break things.:laughing:

Here's a good twin stick writeup for $30
http://www.jeepgod.net/twind300.html

Another cool link
http://www.cjoffroad.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6148

Another cool link
http://www.cjoffroad.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6148


That's pretty much how mine is. I have 2 bolts in each shift rail, though.

That's pretty much how mine is. I have 2 bolts in each shift rail, though.

So you just drilled an extra hole forward of the stock one?

Onto the t-case. I am ditching the Toyota stuff because now that I run the 42's and tons, this is the next weak link that I broke recently which transpired the current buildup. After doing MUCH research, I found that the D300 would bolt directly to the T350 using a stock Chevy adapter. This adapter can be found at PNP for cheap. Mine came of an 80's Blazer that had a 700r4 to a NP231 t-case. Their are two different adapters they came with. One has a tall mounting base and one has a short. You want the short. Now to connect the two you need a spud shaft. Just so happens that AA sells the needed spud shaft.
When I called AA, some said it wouldn't work and I needed their kit.:shaking:
I call again with the part number and the guy says it will work just fine and people do it all the time. Only thing is that their spud shaft rides on a bearing. Mine will not, but it is aparently a tight fit. Here is the spud shaft and the stock Chevy adapter.

you happen to have that spud shaft number, im looking for one myself. Thanks

Here is the link to the build up thread I started
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=670942
Here is the AA part#. I believe its the spud shaft out of this kit. I can't remember if the part number is the kit or the spud. You'll have to call.
They will try to tell you it won't work and that their kit is way better and you will be totally unhappy with your setup. They will also try to tell you it won't work without a carrier bearing on their setup.

AA #50-6304

Good luck.:smokin:

so You Just Drilled An Extra Hole Forward Of The Stock One?

This is the best pic I have. Ignore the pre-rebuild oil...

Thanks for the pic. Looks pretty easy to do.
I'm new to the D300 thing and wanted to know what you did for support. I am going to obviously be using the adapters mounting points but wanted to know if you braced the D300 any other way?
Thanks again for the help

Yeah, I added a tailhousing support to carry the weight of the 300. Helps keep the adapter bolts from coming loose all the time.

Yeah, I added a tailhousing support to carry the weight of the 300. Helps keep the adapter bolts from coming loose all the time.

Anything like these? Looks pretty easy. I can't believe people say they run them without support and haven't had problems. Maybe they aren't killing it like others. One of my donor cases was cracked in half.

Too bad this one won't fit. I like the idea of the bushing. This one is from Stak. I'll keep looking for more ideas. The nice thing is that I have a bunch of bushings just lying around.

Similar, but I have the AA 32 spline output and tailhousing. There wasn't enough room around the bolts for a mount like that, so I made one like this Atlas support ring.

I have the AA HD output on mine as well and your right about there not being a lot of room around the bolts. I believe I will have to make something similiar to what you have.
I don't see many other choices.:shaking:

So you don't think an Atlas support ring would fit???:confused:
They look absolutely identical.

They are, I just wanted to build one. Call up Roark Fabworks if you want the real McCoy.

Roark Fabworks website is down. Are they still in business?
I found their phone number on BillaVista's Atlas tech thread. Hope it works.
This is the unit you were talking about. NICE!

I found another issue that I didn't think about. One of the reasons for running the D300 was front dig capability. However, after doing some research I found that most people who are doing front digs have a selectable rear locker. I am not sure this is going to work out so well for me because I am running a spooled rearend.:shaking:
So my question is with a cutting brake and a spool, will it turn half way decent with both tires locked up?
I found two types of cutting brakes. The first one is the two in two out, push-pull design which would work if I used it for front two wheels and back two wheels since I can't use it from side to side.
The second one I found was the Staging brake which is a one in one out style. This would allow me to just lock up the rears.
I think just a staging brake may do the trick.
I also have a Jamar line lock that won't hold crapola. This is my third one and don't want to rely on it to hold in a dig.
Any input?

The push pull style cutting brake.

The staging brake

I haven't done it myself but watching at Put up or shut up earlier this year most guys doing digs were draging both rear tires and turning with no problem. I think I will end up spooled on my runner and I am just going to try it and see what happens. Hell I find that I really don't do a lot of digs. We'll see.

I find myself wanting both rear brakes locked up more often than just one. Unless there is a decent sized rock to pick the inside rear tire on, it will usually just drag and not help at all. That's when you have to peel the fawk out and break the tires loose to get it to turn worth a damn.

As far as the lever, go for a 2 in 2 out single handle push/pull. That way you can lock up the front for rear burns. Don't need it very often outside of comps, but it comes in handy in tight spots.

I'm taking a look at how many brake mods. I will have to do to incoporate the two in two out setup. Definately would be cool to have both front and rear burn capability.:smokin:

Most of the time locking both rear tires will turn best, but if you’re pointed up hill on loose dirt locking one rear works best.

Most of the time locking both rear tires will turn best, but if you’re pointed up hill on loose dirt locking one rear works best.

Looks like I will be ordering the 2-in-2-out setup to do just that. It's been a concensus of those I've spoken to, to get the 2/2 setup for my application. Thanks for the help guys!:smokin:

I ran a split pedal setup for my brakes. One front, one rear, all done with my feet, so I can steer and not worry about another lever to hold.

Now that is a AWESOME idea.:smokin: I already have another pedal sitting there. What MC's are you using? I fear I would have to change out my MC to some Wilwood units to make that work.

I'm running 3/4" and 7/8" wilwood masters...they should both be 7/8" I've just been too lazy to redo it

I'm running 3/4" and 7/8" wilwood masters...they should both be 7/8" I've just been too lazy to redo it

I've been seriously been thinking about running your setup and think I'm gonna give it a try. I love being different.

Ya, I'm gonna be that guy that bumps this back up from the dead for some updates.

Thanks for bringing this thing back from the dead:D
I am actually going to be bustin azz on this thing as soon as Christmas is over. Need it done ASAP. I've missed out on tons of great wheelin. Will start postin pics very soon.

ALRIGHT!!!! I'm back at it. Finally getting around to finishing up this long lost project. Haven't had much time to take pictures but I will post some up tomorrow.
The first thing that I did was get the 4.3 torn down and cleaned up.
Next I made an adapter to mate the toyota Got Propane kit to the 4.3. After that I finally got the engine / tranny hung inside the buggy. I ended up having to slant the rear of the engine to the drivers side so that I would have a little more room for my small driveline. As it sits now, I think my driveshaft will only be 1 1/4" tubing so it will clear the trans pan. Next I built some engine mounts and a new transmission cross member. Ended up being a pain in the azz. Then I hung the toyota 4cyl radiator forward a few inches to make room for the Taurus fan I will be running. Hopefully the fan will pull enough air through the 4cyl radiator to keep the 6cyl cool. I guess we will find out. I've been told people run this combo with no problems but we shall see. Next I cut up out the old tank mounts and fabbed up some new ones to accomodate the larger propane tanks. I also turned the tanks so they go from side to side instead of front to back so that I can put rear seats in. I was able to find some nice Acura seats for free that are very comfortable. Now I will have 4 seats:smokin:
Tomorrow I will get all the seats mounted and post up some pictures.
Things I still need to accomplish:
Battery mount
Exhaust
Trans cooler
Wiring
Belly pan
D300 shifters
Floor pans
Roll cage extension

And finally the part I dread the most. Swapping a Th350 output shaft.:shaking:

Anyone here ever swapped out an output shaft. I'm going to be turning a rebuilt 2wd TH350 into a 4wd transmission, which requires tearing it down and putting the 4wd output in. I've heard its not too difficult to do, anyone have any experience in this area. Any special tools? Gaskets? Etc.???

http://th350.netfirms.com/pages/front.jpg

http://th350.netfirms.com/pages/back.jpg

HOOCH,
How's it going? Hope all is well. Where did you find that?

Its going.....Would be better with some olive drab spray paint.:eek::laughing:

Glad your finally getting back on this. I found these when I was helping Ben convert his 2wd TH350 to 4wd. It was a while ago, but if I remember correctly its not that hard. Alot of the internal chit came out as a whole and didn't need to be taken apart, just removed to get to the output shaft assembly. If we could do it, you and Steve can do it. :smokin:

I think there was something about the 4wd output shaft being an issue. Its obviouslly shorter then the 2wd one, but I think there are like 2 or 3 different lengths and you need to match them to the Tcase your using. Again it was long ago and many :beer:'s were enjoyed during the process.

Yeah, the 4wd output that I need sticks out approx. 3/4" past the trans housing. I'm using a junkyard adapter setup that utilizes the AA spud shaft for their kit. That then bolts to the D300. Just talked to the local trans shop and they said there are no special tools required. Said I don't even have to drop the valve body. Just pull the pump and everything slides out, swap the output and put it back together. It sounded easy, hope it really is. Definately having "Super Steve" come over to make sure I don't get into too much trouble.

Hooch, you going with us to the Hammers?

Hooch, you going with us to the Hammers?


Ahh, I was woundering what lit the fire under your ass.

I'm hoping to make it. Its 50-50 right now, have to see what the funds are like when the time comes.

I'm hoping to get it done within the next week, so I can get a shake down run at Hollister.

Rig is :grinpimp: Jesse. Let me know when you make the shakedown run. I'll roll out there with you.

You wont have any problem doing that shaft swap. Just take your time and make sure you lay everything out in order and put itback in the way it came out. KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN!!!!!! Autos dont like dirt or lint from shop rags at all. Watch out for the clip toward the rear most clutchs as it can be a pain and they fly out with great speed if dislodged. You don't have to pull the valve body but you will have to pull the parking pal out to be able to remove the rearmost parts easier. I used the Ron Sessions book and it tells you everything you need to know and has good pictures. Have fun.

Willflow, good to hear from you. I was able to get the output shaft swapped out today. Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Only special tool I needed was tranny snap ring pliers. Didn't have to pull the valve body out. Just pulled out the pump and layed everything out on the table the way it came out. Swapped the shaft and then put everything back in slowly. Made sure not to get anything in there. I was able to reuse all the seals as they came out nice. It helps that it was recently rebuilt, so everything was near new. I guess the only way we will know it works is to put it in and run it.

Rig is :grinpimp: Jesse. Let me know when you make the shakedown run. I'll roll out there with you.

I'll let you know.:D

I found that most people who are doing front digs have a selectable rear locker.

who ever told you this dont know what they are talking about

If your rig has the ability to lock-up each rear tire individually then I can see the benefit of having a selectable locker in the rear. But it's definitely not a necessity for front dig capabilities. :smokin:

who ever told you this dont know what they are talking about

Hobie, I later figured this out by talking to people who actually did front digs. I am no longer worried about my rear spool. Can't wait to try it out.

If your rig has the ability to lock-up each rear tire individually then I can see the benefit of having a selectable locker in the rear. But it's definitely not a necessity for front dig capabilities. :smokin:

Right now I will only be able to disengage the rear and use the cutting brake to lock up both back wheels. As for the front being able to unlock, don't care anymore. See you soon Hooch

Finally the engine is hung:D Believe it or not, it was a tight fit. The distributor is so close to the cross tube and the radiator could only go so far forward because of the winch. This all left even less room for the Taurus fan.

Super simple engine mounts on poly bushings.

Moved the radiator as far forward as possible without hitting the winch. Had to even notche out the side of the radiator to accomodate the winch controls.:laughing:

Taurus fan had to be modified to fit. I trimmed the edges off and then trimmed the face of the shroud to get the fans center approx 1/4" from the radiator. The actual blades are about 1" away.
Still trying to decide wether to build a custom shroud. You guys think it will pull enough without a shroud?

Tranny cross-member fabbed and tacked in. Had to notch out a section so that the yoke could spin.

Had to remove the slider from the passenger seat:rolleyes: Then had to tilt the seat back a bit to clear the D300, should work just fine. It actually only lays back slightly more than the drivers seat.

Now for the propane tanks. I was running (2) 8 gallon tanks, now I'm running 10 gallon tanks I believe. Turned them sideways to make more room in the back for the new rear seats. Ended up just cutting up the old bracket and re-using it. At some point I will come back and re-fab this, just don't have any time right now. It will be nice to have a little greater range with more fuel. Before I would have to carry a spare tank or have someone carry it for me.

I forgot to mention that I dropped the tanks down about 4 inches. This will put the weight down lower and give me more room for the rack and cooler:D

When I hung the engine I had to slant the rear slightly to the driver side to give more room for the front driveline. As you can see I can't use a large driveline since it will hit the tranny pan. Looks like I will have to use something in the 1 1/4" range, maybe 1/2" wall. Will be using modified stock toy d-lines. Should be interesting.:shaking:
Here you can see how tight its gonna be.

Going to have to rotate the hydro cylinder so the pulley doesn't hit the lines.

It only took about 1.5 hrs to swap the transmission output shaft to a 4x4 shaft. Hopefully it will work. Now I just hope the AA spud shaft will fit between the trans and D300. Will know shortly:D

Next up is modding the interior to fit the new B&M shifter and the t-case shifters. Should only have to notch out a section of the old floors.

More to come in the next few days. Have to run out to PNP to pick up some more parts.

Super simple engine mounts on poly bushings. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=435556&stc=1&d=1239564152

The angle of the picture probably deceived my eyes but don't you think the header will melt the poly bushings?

*two thumbs up* with the engine swap. More "oomph" is always a good thing. :D

It's actually kind of decieving. I made sure that there is plenty of room so those poly bushings wouldn't go up in smoke. I'll post up pics from another angle so you get a better idea once the rest of the exhaust is installed. Defineately look forward to the v6 power:smokin:

Spent a day at PNP and got some more parts. Got all the parts to make the drivelines. Also got an awesome tranny cooler off a 1 ton truck. Next thing I've got to find is a shifter. I have a B&M megashifter but don't have the cable or mount and lever kit. My other option is to find a older Camero that had a TH350 and use the floor shifter, cable, and lever kit.
Anyone have an old B&M megashifter cable and lever kit?

You can buy just the cable and lever from Summit Racing. You could actually make the lever. it's just a piece of steel with some holes in it. I have the same shifter in my Chevelle. You'll also need the bracket that holds the cable on next to the tranny pan.

Cable:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D80605&N=700+4294925134+4294839069+4294822071+400004+115&autoview=sku

Cable bracket on the tranny:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D30499&N=700+4294925134+4294839069+4294849125+400004+4294 908216+4294904013+115&autoview=sku

Here's the instal instructions:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-megashifter.pdf

I couldn't find the actual shifter lever but I'm sure you could make one.

Thanks for looking that all up!!:D At this point I think I will just order the parts and keep it simple. Besides, I think the B&M is a little nicer than some of the junk yard shifters I've seen.

The only problem I think you'll have with the B&M is the reverse lockout. You're not going to be able to shift from drive or neutral to reverse very fast.

I don't know if it can be modified.

I felt that when I was playing with it and it was definately a pain. However, I was told you could grind out some of the detents and make it so you don't have to lift the gate up. You know anything about that?

Maintain or tune a megashifter can be such a pain in the arse. Get rid of the megashifter and get shifter from ArtCarr. Once u do, u will never look back.

I've never thought about changing my shifter because I use it for drag racing. I would just it like it is if you can't figure out how to modify it. The ArtCarr shifter is definately a good choice. I know a few guys that run them.

I think I will get rid of the B&M shifter and get myself a junk yard shifter for now. I'll upgrade to the ArtCarr when they have a sale.:D

May need to go 2 piece on the front...I did. My trans builder recommended using a junkyard shifter, but I bought an Art Carr

so the 60 in your f-toy???whats your wheel mounting flange to flange on them???full width right??? thanks for any info Bill W. /F-Toy # 56:smokin:

May need to go 2 piece on the front...I did. My trans builder recommended using a junkyard shifter, but I bought an Art Carr

What up Wilson? I did think about that and have been researching it a bit. I may be able to pull it off with the single shaft, we'll see. I too may be going with the ArtCarr. Sometimes they have a special, so I'll keep looking. Hopefully I will get some build time on it this week.

so the 60 in your f-toy???whats your wheel mounting flange to flange on them???full width right??? thanks for any info Bill W. /F-Toy # 56:smokin:

It actually a dually front 60, so its wide as hell. Which is why I called this project "Double Wide":D I will check on the width and get back to you. I also have single wide hubs but haven't swapped because my tires will hit the springs at full turn while running the H2 5.5" BS rims.:shaking:

Any updates on this? How do you like the 4.3? Still think you made the right choice over the 350, only reason I ask is I am torn between a ready to run 4.3 and a basket case TPI 350.

Any updates on this? How do you like the 4.3? Still think you made the right choice over the 350, only reason I ask is I am torn between a ready to run 4.3 and a basket case TPI 350.

4.3.. basket case should be all you need to hear and the tpi motors really aren't that great.

My son was born at Stanford Hospital and has some rare conditions that are life threatening. I have been living in the hospital for the past two months and haven't even had time to come home. Probably be in the hospital for another 5-6 months. I can't even remember where I left off, but I will get back to it someday.

My son was born at Stanford Hospital and has some rare conditions that are life threatening. I have been living in the hospital for the past two months and haven't even had time to come home. Probably be in the hospital for another 5-6 months. I can't even remember where I left off, but I will get back to it someday.

The rig can wait. I will put your family in my prayers.

I will put your family in my prayers.


x2

Jeep07 and Rockabilly. Thank you for the kind thoughts and prayers. We need them more than anything. Its funny to think about what I thought was important in my life and realize just how far off I really was. This whole experience literally puts your whole life into perspective. I wish I could bottle this feeling and give it to everyone. It has made me realize just how special life really is and how fragile it is. I look at life in a whole new way and have been changed forever by this experience. I pray and want more than anything to be able to bring my son home and show him this wonderful world we live in. Thank you again for you kind words and prayers.

Prayers and Blessings to you.
How's your son doing?

Hope everything turns out OK, you and your son will be in my prayers.