I did a search but came up empty, so here is my question:

I have a '89 rear dana 44 out of a Grand Wagoneer and it is 6 lug with 7/16" studs. I want to switch to 1/2" studs that are longer to install a 3/4" wheel spacer similar to All Pro's kit. Can I get studs that will press in directly or will I need to drill out the axle flange holes some? Anybody have the part number of the wheel studs that All Pro uses? Any inf. is appreciated. Jeff

odds are you will be able to get studs to fit your holes,
pep boys carrys a good supply of studs, i'd take one out and bring it along. (there are alot of different shanks) if no luck, i'm sure there are some online soemwhere...........
BUT 3/4" spacers are pretty thick, maybe some adaptors?

i upgraded my rear 60 awhile back here http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/studs.html

G Wagoneer rears use NAPA 641-1615 which is:
Thread Knurl Dia Length Shoulder
7/16-20 0.472" 1-1/2" 11/32"

For 1/2" studs with an extra 3/4" you're looking at:

NAPA 641-1016
Chevy/GMC Truck 60-70
Thread Knurl Dia Length Shoulder
1/2"-20 0.561" 2-7/8" 15/16"

NAPA 641-1110
Chevy/GMC Truck 46-70
Thread Knurl Dia Length Shoulder
1/2"-20 0.560" 2-3/8" 15/16"

NAPA 641-1602
Ford Truck 83-97, Mazda 94-97
Thread Knurl Dia Length Shoulder
1/2"-20 0.565" 2-3/32" 45/64"

Go to http://www.mscdirect.com and get a reduced shank 0.561" drill bit (Item# 01344464 - $5.99).

Or:
NAPA 641-3115
Ford Truck 73-93
Thread Knurl Dia Length Shoulder
1/2"-20 0.619" 2-3/16" 19/32"

And use a 0.6250", 5/8" reduced shank drill bit (they have many). No 1/2"-20 lug studs have smaller than a 0.530" knurl, so you're going to have to drill, or have your axle supplier drill to your specs.

Bryan

odds are that you'll need to redrill your holes in your flanges

it may work if you have a good enough press, but even with that you may not get as good of a seat as the press will likely strip the teeth off of the stud or remove old metal from the holes upon pressing them.

Call me nuts, put to press studs into a shaft or hub, what i do, is push the stud through, and center it, take a pile of washers (grade 8) and stack em on there, add the lug nut, make sure the stud is straight and isnt spinning, and torque them down with an impace wrench, i like to go to about 200 ft lbs, or until i think they are seated well. Does anyone see a problem with doing it this way?

Originally posted by PW
Call me nuts, put to press studs into a shaft or hub, what i do, is push the stud through, and center it, take a pile of washers (grade 8) and stack em on there, add the lug nut, make sure the stud is straight and isnt spinning, and torque them down with an impace wrench, i like to go to about 200 ft lbs, or until i think they are seated well. Does anyone see a problem with doing it this way?

I do the same but minus the air tools, it hasn't failed me yet.

I used that was to put my studs in last month but I managed to mess up 4 old lug nuts, studs were fine though

That's all you need, once the hole is the right size.

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I need to do a little more research on what studs are available and pretty much plan on drilling out the end flange some to fit the bigger/longer studs. I'll go take a look at those that oxjockey mentioned. Jeff

Well, I finally got my 3/4" steel wheel spacers done. I wanted STEEL
ones and couldn't find any, so I copied All Pro's aluminum ones in
steel. I had a local guy that builds hot rods cut two donuts out of
3/4" plate steel on a flame cutter. Came out real nice and cost me
$30. I then used an old wheel drum, some scrap steel, and my welder to
tack things together centered as best as I could. Then I used a drill
press through the wheel stud holes in the drum to mark the holes in the
donuts. Using two drill steps, I drilled the donuts to 6 on 5.5 x 1/2"
dia. Then I purchased 12 610-073 1/2" wheel studs at $1.70 each from
Carquest and a 17/32 drill bit at Farm and Fleet for $13. I modified
the wheel studs by grinding off some of the "knurl" as it was 15/16 long
and I only needed to pass through a 3/8" thick rear axle flange. I also
used a die to thread a few more threads on the studs in case I need to
install a wheel without the spacer. I ended up removing the shafts from
the rear Grand Waggoneer housing to do the stud install. I pounded out
the old ones and then drilled the holes out to 17/32 using a hand drill
and my eyeballs. :) I slightly tapered the holes to remove the sharp
edges and then hammered in the new studs. Worked well up against the
open jaws of a bench vise. Finally, I reinstalled the shafts and slid
on three 1/2 x 5/8 x 1/4 long spacers per side to take up the difference
between the 5/8" holes on the late model Chevy truck front rotors holes
and the 1/2" studs. Then the rotor and the spacer were slid (tapped
with a large hammer) on the longer studs and the wheels were
reinstalled. First test drive indicates that all works well!

Jeff - with a rear track width up from 59" to 60.5".

I also used a die to thread a few more threads on the studs in case I need to install a wheel without the spacer.

What you just did hear is weaken the 1/2 studs you just put in. You cut across the grain lines in the steel and made it much more likely to fail from fatigue. IMO you would have been better off leaving the 7/16 studs. Not trying to be a a$$...just pointing out something you might not have thought of.