Trying to install new hub bearings and races along with the disk conversion. OK took out the old bearings/races. Installed small race, installed new packed bearing, install snap ring, install new outer race, install new packed bearing, install new seal. Installed hub and inner locking nut. Torqued nut to 50ft/lbs and wiggled hub to seat the bearing. Loosened nut and retorqued inner nut to 30 ft/lbs. Installed ring with key to fit the spindle groove, installed ring with spindle groove and outside tabs, then torqued outer nut to 80 ft/lbs. Is this correct procedure??? This is driving me nuts. One hub has a lot of play. The other hub is very hard to turn. What am I doing wrong? I have not installed a lot of bearings in my day but the ones I have installed never have been like this. Can anyone help or give me some advice.........Go easy now:D

After thinking about this. does it make sense to put one of the rings between the outer bearing and the inner locking nut? Right now I have the inner nut against the outer bearing and the hub/rotor will turn when I tighten the nut. Is this right?

Nut-Ring-Tabbed-Nut

That's the way I have them on my 14 bolt and 60.

You should be able to spin the rear hub w/o the axle shaft in to make sure that your bearing are seated properly. Then if it spins right put the spindle nuts and stuff on. You might be over-torquing the inner nut but I'm not sure. I just usually snug mine down with a socket wrench and the spindle nut socket, no torque wrench.

Also the hub bearings on a 14 bolt are lubricating by Gear Oil from the housing. That's why there is that meatal seal between the shaft and the hub, so oil can get out to the bearings. The grease shouldn't hurt but just an FYI.

I took my corp 14 apart this weekend and it seems that you have it put back together wrong. After you slide the hub and rotor/drum on you install a keyed spacer ring then the first keyed nut then the next keyed ring with the tabs that stick off from it on 90* angles, then the final keyed nut....Then you are done..
Are you sure that you are supposed to pack rear bearings I think that the gear oil lubes them?...allthough I'm not 100% on this. Maybe the bearings are packed with too much and they won't move...

Originally posted by bigdude
Nut-Ring-Tabbed-Nut

That's the way I have them on my 14 bolt and 60.

You should be able to spin the rear hub w/o the axle shaft in to make sure that your bearing are seated properly. Then if it spins right put the spindle nuts and stuff on. You might be over-torquing the inner nut but I'm not sure. I just usually snug mine down with a socket wrench and the spindle nut socket, no torque wrench.

Also the hub bearings on a 14 bolt are lubricating by Gear Oil from the housing. That's why there is that meatal seal between the shaft and the hub, so oil can get out to the bearings. The grease shouldn't hurt but just an FYI.

The problem is that I cannot get the one hub to tighten up. Once I torque the inner nut down, the rings and the outer nut there is still alot of slop in the hub bearings meaning I can tilt it back and forth maybe 1/4". Since the bearings were new I thought I would apply some grease just to make sure they were lubricated until the gear oil got there to do the job. I wouldnt see why this would matter? Would it? The metal seal you are talking about goes over the spindle and between the housing and the hub seal correct?

After you slide the hub and rotor/drum on you install a keyed spacer ring then the first keyed nut then the next keyed ring with the tabs that stick off from it on 90* angles, then the final keyed nut..

Mine is different as I listed previously. The keyed spacer is used after the first spindle nut in order to keep the tabbed ring from interfering with the first spindle nut (also sporting the slots for the spindle nut tool). I don't think it really matters. Either way the nuts torque is transfered to the bearing, neither piece would rotate with the bearing, and both have a smooth surface against the bearing. I think it's 6 one way and half dozen the other, but I'm leaving mine the way it is:D

That should not have the effect you're describing. I'd guess a bearing isn't seated properly, or a race is slightly off. If you're confident they're not then just remember that it isn't easy to spin the hub when the shaft is in (assuming it is). If the shaft isn't in then it's easy enough to take apart and check the bearing placement. Just keep putting it together the way you have;)

Originally posted by the TJ kid
I took my corp 14 apart this weekend and it seems that you have it put back together wrong. After you slide the hub and rotor/drum on you install a keyed spacer ring then the first keyed nut then the next keyed ring with the tabs that stick off from it on 90* angles, then the final keyed nut....Then you are done..
Are you sure that you are supposed to pack rear bearings I think that the gear oil lubes them?...allthough I'm not 100% on this. Maybe the bearings are packed with too much and they won't move...

I will try the diffrent order of the rings and nuts. The keyed ring with the locking tabs...the tabs face out,correct. I didnt really pack the bearings, just enough grease to lube them until the oil could get out there. It shouldnt matter but I could be wrong. Any ideas why I have all the slop even when I get the nuts torqued down?

Yes the tabs face out, and when it's al together bend one over into a slot on the outer nut to keep it from vibrating loose.

I don't think the grease matters as I previously mentioned and neither does the nut arrangement in theory (but I think I'm right :D ) Your problem has a deeper root. Check the loose hub on each side to determine if the problem is hub or spindle related. If it's in the hub then you could have an incorrect bearing (too big) that would allow for wobble. Your bearings may not be seated correctly and you should be able to detect this by spinning the hub while applying an inward pressure with one hand to keep the hub in place.

I'd put money on the bearing not seating correctly (probably the inner) and secondly on a wrong bearing. it is psossible that the race is in crooked or something though. Take it apart and mess with it, i bet you'll get it straight. Let me know what it was because I'm curious, my 14B went together no sweat.

Thanks for the help bigdude, I will let you know when I figure it out. The other funny thing is on the other hub, when I spin it the inner nut will actually spin with the bearing and actually get tighter to the point where I can no longer spin it. Turn the hub the other way (counterclockwise) and the hub will loosen back up along with the inner nut. This only happens when the ring and the other nut are not installed. Crazy. I have never had this big of a problem.

This only happens when the ring and the other nut are not installed

All I can say to that is that it was designed to have the hub turn with everything in place (both nuts, etc) so I wouldn't sweat it if it doesn't do it when everythings on there.

And did I mention I have all my stuff in the order you did, no problems at all.