I really don't have all my ducks in order for my Caddy swap, but my tired old 345 bit the dust, or chewed up the dist timing gears, so it is time to step up the pace. I am just looking for some imput on anything to be warned of or look out for as far as positioning the Caddy in the engine bay or anything else from experience. I have enough experiments with a 4L80E, and homemade dual xfer case to worry about and I am looking to avoid pitfalls on the engine side of things.

I'm not sure how much you know about caddy's so here goes

If at all possible run an Eldorado Oil pan and pick-up tube to help clear the front axle if it ever comes down hard.

Make sure you have most IF NOT ALL of your origional engine brackest for, like, the PS pump, alt, etc...etc... I've been told they change from year to year.

Your origional exhaust manifolds will most likely send your exhaust directly into your framerails.

Keep that little strap that goes from the end of the starter to the block. Reuse it!

If the engine is a NEW rebuild prime the oil pump by spinning the oil pump with the inside shaft of an old dist (these connect to the oil pump in stock form) connected to a drill, till you get oil pressure. This way you can also detect any potential leaks.

The TWO groove AC & PS belt pulleys run to close to an Elect. dist, run the single pulley system.

Don't run a head stud-bolt system on a caddy that you're putting in tight quarters. Imagine trying to remove those heads after the engine is installed :eek:

If you've removed and replaced, or put in an aftermarket, Dipstick make sure it clears the crank & rods!!

GET new motor mounts, all that power will tear up old ones quick!

That's all I can think of right now. Not all if this info was gathered from PERSONAL experience, but it is GOOD info nontheless.

Good luck take a lot of pics, I'll be doing the same swap someday and wouldn't mind a bunch of CLEARANCE pics (all places) before I get started ;)