here are a few pics from this weekend
http://www.twisteddv.com/images/tdvplayasclubinvitational/DSC02733.jpghttp://www.twisteddv.com/images/tdvplayasclubinvitational/DSC02737.jpghttp://www.twisteddv.com/images/tdvplayasclubinvitational/DSC02744.jpg

What about routing the breather lines form the valve cover as far as you can to the drivers side, then towards the front and then back to the intake? Most of the time when I have problems smoking real bad is when I'm climbing somthing while tipped towards the passenger side. If the tubes were routed as I said, the oil would have to go uphill to get out. It seems like a simple solution and I did that to mine last weekend. Then I found I have a bent rear axle housing (musta happened at Donner) so I didn't get to go try it out.

Why are the big Yotas picking on the little Yota? :laughing:

http://www.twisteddv.com/images/tdvplayasclubinvitational/DSC02737.jpg

Ben, Brian said the FToy looked tiny next to your 44's!!!

here is a better pic of the difference in size....lol
http://www.twisteddv.com/images/tdvplayasclubinvitational/DSC02731.jpg

Get off of me!

I still think the ftoy looked like a remote control car next to raisin and swazall, so small. I need to hook up with the guy who bought our Tacoma, see what it looks like next to that thing too!

Awesome weekend with the guys from Twisted Digital Video!

And that wall, "Braindead on Drugs" right? THAT was a fun run!

Packaged the winch, radiator, and fan all in. Still need to mount the AFM, we keep changing our minds on where that will go. Its tight, but everything fits!



Brian, what kind of radiator is that?

Brian, what kind of radiator is that?

Single core alum from Summit. We cut the old ports off, rewelded them, and walla! Its 16*20 about 1 3/8 thick, with a taurus fan, 2 speed, pushing. We're still playing with it, it keeps trying to run hot, especially at high speed.

FINALLY, got the buggy on a certified scale.

Final weight, no driver 1640 front, 1140 rear, 2780 overall.

Sick part is, Ive already looked at ways to loose more weight! :eek:

Realistically, without sacrificing ease of driving (power brakes) or features (winch) its hard to drop much weight out of this. Maybe we'll thin the driveshafts from the .250 wall to .200 wall, and save a little there! :D

ditch that lame front housing for a stocker should save you some wieght, dont run any fluids, aluminum steering arms, aluminum steering links, drill holes in the tires, leafsprings, gas tank, and engine block.

ditch that lame front housing for a stocker should save you some wieght, dont run any fluids, aluminum steering arms, aluminum steering links, drill holes in the tires, leafsprings, gas tank, and engine block.

You are a complete chump Chris!

We still need to drill rotors to save some weight, drill drums, Im really thinking about shaving the driveshafts, .095 wall draglink, alum. steering res., maybe then we'll just hole saw the inside of the frame rail, and dimple it! :D

EDIT: Thinking we should gun drill our driveshaft slips. The front 12" could save probably 10-15#!

or you could have Ben squeeze the fat out of your truck
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/attachment.php?attachmentid=5782&stc=1&d=1186884799

Isnt that like have a fat guy sit on you to make you skinnier?

Final weight, no driver 1640 front, 1140 rear, 2780 overall.







2,780 # huh? Insane, thats exacly the same weight as the skid plate x-member on my rig!:D:D

You know that you have set the bar now, right? Everyone, including myself are gonna go all out to put that weight to shame.:flipoff2:

can we get some better pics of the f-toy by itself? maybe from a couple different views outside? havent really seen any yet

That's pretty good FT001 was 2900lbs and it didnt have any extras.

can we get some better pics of the f-toy by itself? maybe from a couple different views outside? havent really seen any yet

Ditto. Also maybe parked next to something stockish like a stock Taco or something so we have a frame of reference?

Ditto. Also maybe parked next to something stockish like a stock Taco or something so we have a frame of reference?

Ill see if I can get some "in a field" pics this weekend. In the meantine, got this: runner is on 31's.

Man nice COG. Have you experienced any situations where you wish you were a little higher?

Maybe 1 out of 20 obstacles, more belly would help. But 19 out of 20 I really like the height.

i looked and could not find it, but how wide are you wms to wms and outside of tire to tire?

thanks

Jeremy

i looked and could not find it, but how wide are you wms to wms and outside of tire to tire?

thanks

Jeremy

To the furthest out side lug 75" front 70" rear.

Sitting in a parking lot, at Rising Sun Rally.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=320390&stc=1&d=1187294042

To the furthest out side lug 75" front 70" rear.

so how much wider is your axle than stock and what back spacing are your wheels? i am getting ready to order one of your axles and i want to make sure that i will not be to wide to run in the trees here in the PNW.

thanks

Jeremy

so how much wider is your axle than stock and what back spacing are your wheels? i am getting ready to order one of your axles and i want to make sure that i will not be to wide to run in the trees here in the PNW.

thanks

Jeremy

Front WMS is 63", wheels have a 4.5 backspace, 8" wide.

Best would be give us a call, and Ill be happy to go over width, angle of steering, etc, and see where you want to be. Its a bit hard for me to explain everything in text.

New axle built and installed! We used an old IFS housing to see where we wanted to be, and for initial setup/testing of the suspension, tire clearance, etc.

New housing of course has one of our large fill/ring gear looky loo hole, and here's our new traction bar mount. Everything is working great! the new bar is a shackle design, as opposed to the old (lousy) slip/twist design. the suspension is noticeably more sensitive, and more responsive with the shackle setup. Which yields a better ride, especially at speed!

Naturally we are using this buggy as a test bed for new ideas. Here's one we utilized in the new rear housing. Supporting the shaft so if the shaft snaps at the third, the end would flail around beating up the locker, carrier, 3rd case, adjuster nut, etc.

more info here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=612525
and here:
http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=324563&stc=1&d=1189474166

Man, I like that, it's a really good idea. No need for a bearing there, right?The shaft will center up on the carrier splines. Thats cool.




Naturally we are using this buggy as a test bed for new ideas. Here's one we utilized in the new rear housing. Supporting the shaft so if the shaft snaps at the third, the end would flail around beating up the locker, carrier, 3rd case, adjuster nut, etc.

more info here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=612525
and here:
http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=324563&stc=1&d=1189474166

Looks good Brian. Hoping to order some soon.

Man, I like that, it's a really good idea. No need for a bearing there, right?The shaft will center up on the carrier splines. Thats cool.

No bearing, as the shaft wont touch the puck unless the end is broken off.

New axle built and installed! We used an old IFS housing to see where we wanted to be, and for initial setup/testing of the suspension, tire clearance, etc.

New housing of course has one of our large fill/ring gear looky loo hole, and here's our new traction bar mount. Everything is working great! the new bar is a shackle design, as opposed to the old (lousy) slip/twist design. the suspension is noticeably more sensitive, and more responsive with the shackle setup. Which yields a better ride, especially at speed!

Will this style Traction bar mount work on my truck?????

just checked back on this - love how low it is!!!

Will this style Traction bar mount work on my truck?????

Yes, we wont run a leaf rear without this style tracbar actually.

Brian, did you plate the back of the trac bar mount? We had problems with it trying to tear off of the housing until we plated it. You might be ok with the extra thickness in your housing.

Brian, did you plate the back of the trac bar mount? We had problems with it trying to tear off of the housing until we plated it. You might be ok with the extra thickness in your housing.

Nope, totally open. We couldnt tear the one on the Tacoma either, almost exactly the same... well 70% more tire weight, 3 times the motor, and nearly twice the weight! We tore the bracket through at the upper mounting hole on it. Im not concerned about this bracket, if anything we might add rings for gussets around the bolt holes (think welded on washers, but actual bolt hole ID)

Update with suspension changes , and beating on it now. Here's some numbers, all taken at ~6 psi in the tires

belly/frame (flat belly) 21.5
12" under the diffs
68.5" to the roof

Well we got to upgrade a couple more things lately. One was getting tired of gear oil on the leg during flops. Solution, new shifter boot. We started by messing with the factory rubber encased shifter thing. That was taking too long, and was determined to be useless (not floor boot). Along came some 1/2" cold roll, and chopped the old shifter just at the top of the bends. Simply threaded one end of the 1/2" and welded to the factory lever stub. Now thw boot will be an easy change in the future! We also snugly wrapped the top and bottom with stainless safety wire to prevent even the most determined 90w from getting out!

Took it out for a sunday drive, nothing hardcore, just a scenic cruise, to just above tree line.

I really like how you have made this F-Toy for more than just competition. You can take this thing high speed if you want.

I really like how you have made this F-Toy for more than just competition. You can take this thing high speed if you want.

Its definately been a balance. Our highest goals were low weight, very competitive, and do well at high speed runs, including landings. So far we're pretty happy, just working on the suspension. Ironic enough for a leaf rig, the front is doing nice, the rear still need some love. Need to soften the spring rate, and increase droop by a few inches. Unfotunately, the best way to do this would be longer rear spings and shackles, killing the departure angle. Right now, looks like we may just make the call on which springs to run based on where we are going.

Looks good Brian!

Is there any way to add an inner seal to "1st gen" diamonds without them?

Don't know if you've called Brian on this yet, but here is a write up of when mine were done.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=448613


Brian, VERY NICE build!

I can’t believe I have never run across this thread Brian. As I have said before love the buggy. And I can tell everyone this thing works better than any other leaf spring machine, better than most linked trucks. If you ever get the pleasure of riding with brian in this f-toy make sure you strap in tight cause you are going to go fast, like really fast, over very rough trails even with a knocking motor!

Brian,
Any info on your steering? The stock steering arms. Hows it working? Have you changed it? Im copying it on my trooper due to clearance issues. I dont know if its gonna work long term or if Im gonna have to find some real low steer arm, that are that low.

Brian,

How low is the front hanger bolt from the bottom of the factory frame crossmember?

I can’t believe I have never run across this thread Brian. As I have said before love the buggy. And I can tell everyone this thing works better than any other leaf spring machine, better than most linked trucks. If you ever get the pleasure of riding with brian in this f-toy make sure you strap in tight cause you are going to go fast, like really fast, over very rough trails even with a knocking motor!

:evil: Now you understand why I keep tweaking the suspension! We've got a couple ideas on the rear suspension changes now, but since its into snow season, going to be a while before we can tune again. Before snow hit, we found top speed, with the oh-so-shot engine currently in it (blow by, barely idles, and I think 2 rods a-bangin now) 3rd gear pinned, 2wd high, sounds about like 4500, so in the 75 neighborhood. Smooth as silk too. Just gotta get a CV in the first 1/2 of the front shaft so I can run that speed in 4wd.

I just realized, you rode at night, over driving the headlights, imagine how the gal (forgot her name again!) going downhill during daylight felt!


Vikingsven-
I was told no tighter to the frame than stock, so we matched stock, ~2" below xmember to hole center.

Report on the rig at this point, found the weak point of the steering, the arms. Apparently, when you let a friend drive, who is magnetically attracted to immoveable objects, in the snow, driving too fast (say ~25-30) bad things happen. One badly bent steering arm, and one trashed, but not broken tie rod end. Studs and knuckle are fine.

Those were stock arms, right? Too bad donors will be so hard to come by! :laughing:

Those were stock arms, right? Too bad donors will be so hard to come by! :laughing:

Stock, yes. I think we've got a dozen of each lying around and have thrown out a lot more!

So did it trash any thing on the inside of the housing? Hadn't heard about it yet, so I'm guessing not.

BTW, 1 cold afternoon, 1 un-movable tree, some rocks, and I ordered one. Coming Soon - Project Rabid Squirrel. (NOT FLUFFY BUNNY)

So did it trash any thing on the inside of the housing? Hadn't heard about it yet, so I'm guessing not.

BTW, 1 cold afternoon, 1 un-movable tree, some rocks, and I ordered one. Coming Soon - Project Rabid Squirrel. (NOT FLUFFY BUNNY)

No, housing is fine. I want to inspect the longs closely, both sides, but more for general maintanence, than worries of damage from this.

I just realized, you rode at night, over driving the headlights, imagine how the gal (forgot her name again!) going downhill during daylight felt!



Shanna

She told me she just kinda loosely buckled up and that, that was a mistake!

All 4 started as YJ springs.

stock or 3" lift springs?

Stock

Brian, could you post some pics of your finished belly pan setup? Don't see anything other than the tube crossmembers in the build pics.

:beer:

Brian, could you post some pics of your finished belly pan setup? Don't see anything other than the tube crossmembers in the build pics.

:beer:

You are just under the rear diff. Now you really see what I mean by having to pull the seats to pull the tcase.

Getting this pic in the ftoy folder, found a pic from Donner. Fun comp!

Thanks Brian. :beer:

This picture puts into perspective how Brian's rig is so light:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=357135&stc=1&d=1204769289

There's nothing there!!!
No back seat, no floor, mud on the back seats :laughing:, thin x-member.

Brian, how thick is your skid plate? IIRC it was 1/4". Any intermediate bracing?

3/16"

My current one is 3/16" as well, lasted 2 years without getting to tweaked.

I'm contemplating 1/8", with 4RnrRick-style trussing/bracing.

My boatsides are filled with 1/8", they have dented in a bit but have held up pretty good, because I fully welded them in.

thin and disposable or thick and durable, take your pick

This picture puts into perspective how Brian's rig is so light:

There's nothing there!!!
No back seat, no floor, mud on the back seats :laughing:, thin x-member.

Brian, how thick is your skid plate? IIRC it was 1/4". Any intermediate bracing?

The belly is a grid of .095 and 083 wall 4130 tube, 3/16 skid. There are 4 tubes across, and 2 tubes front to back making up the grid. I think there's some pics of it earlier in the thread. The skid has been dented. It also needs to go farther up and further back. At that time we'll remake it better, and lighter. :D

As for floor, I sit in the seat, why do I need floor under my seat? This should give you an idea what we've got. Note the Reid sticker in both pics, the skid for the seat, and the Dzus holding the floor in.

Some updates!

Motor that WAS in there was a pile. Like a xmas song " 2 rod's-a-knocking, 1 timing chain a chewing on the cover..."

So a good motor, blowing 160+ on all 4 was dropped in. Good is relative. This one has oil pressure at idle, the old one didnt! We're still planning to build an engine, but with a lack of information out there (dyno sheets, etc) we're doing our own comparisons.

While it was out, we fixed cracks in the 10+ year old header, and dropped some of these in from RC Engineering.

New plugs, rotor, wires, and non-cracked header later, the motor runs beautifully. We havent actually adjusted timing or the mixture much yet either!

For the weight vs. power arguement, I chased down Big Mike from Marlin Crawler at the Jambo. He's running a 3rz (150hp) and think he's ~3400 lbs (waiting on him to hit the scales to verify). Two runs, dead stop, to ~60. I should have asked waht his speedo said. Just know we were in 3rd, high range, running decent RPM. The 2 rigs seemed like they were bolted together. Same launch, same speeds, though shifts and all. Both are running 37's nd 5.29, and 5speeds as well. It was interesting, and better than I thought this formula would do!

Notched the frame an mounted the rear shocks while the motor was being done.

And finally added a brace/gusset to the motor mounts.

The Jambo gave us quite a bit of feedback.
-We can get the engine to 210 before we run out of suspension/steering.
-Steering needs a few little changes to eliminate bumpsteer. We dont have whoops in CO hardly. Choppy its fine, full cycles the wheel turns (kinda expected that)
-Wish we'd had time for bumps in the rear, they'll go in shortly.
-Marlin's 4.7 gears are fantastic. They stay in gear, and are quiet!
-CV is in the front shaft, drivetrain is smooth as fast as we can drive currently! We have 8 ujoints in this thing!

Brian, I was checking out your F-Toy at the Jambo when it was parked next
to our MH and it's sweeeet. Lots of trick little stuff that all adds up. :D

New plugs, rotor, wires, and non-cracked header later, the motor runs beautifully. We havent actually adjusted timing or the mixture much yet either!

For the weight vs. power arguement, I chased down Big Mike from Marlin Crawler at the Jambo. He's running a 3rz (150hp) and think he's ~3400 lbs (waiting on him to hit the scales to verify). Two runs, dead stop, to ~60. I should have asked waht his speedo said. Just know we were in 3rd, high range, running decent RPM. The 2 rigs seemed like they were bolted together. Same launch, same speeds, though shifts and all. Both are running 37's nd 5.29, and 5speeds as well. It was interesting, and better than I thought this formula would do!

You didn't get a chance to drag race Mark in the raffle rig?

You didn't get a chance to drag race Mark in the raffle rig?

Im planning to catch up with him at Cedar, and hopefully try then. That would tell us a lot, since that should be the best non-turbo 22R built. So how much more should it be? No one really knows or at least isnt sharing info on that!

Brian, I was checking out your F-Toy at the Jambo when it was parked next
to our MH and it's sweeeet. Lots of trick little stuff that all adds up. :D

Thanks Gary! Still quite a bit more that needs done!

Saw some pics Ern and Tommy took of a few of the runs they went on with you, looks like you guys had some fun.

Whats the difference between those injectors and the stock ones?

Saw some pics Ern and Tommy took of a few of the runs they went on with you, looks like you guys had some fun.

Whats the difference between those injectors and the stock ones?

rebuilt,cleaned, balanced. Just what they were from the factory.

Trails the ftoy ran (since some have asked):

Boulder Dash
Chocolate thunder
Backdoor
Resolution
Sledge
Hwy 20
Outer Limits

And some playing on the sand dunes

rebuilt,cleaned, balanced. Just what they were from the factory.

Trails the ftoy ran (since some have asked):

Boulder Dash
Chocolate thunder
Backdoor
Resolution
Sledge
Hwy 20
Outer Limits

And some playing on the sand dunes

Ah great minds think alike ;), I sent mine in for cleaning/rebuild last week, amazing how bad the old numbers and patterns where vs after cleaning.

New plugs, rotor, wires, and non-cracked header later, the motor runs beautifully. We havent actually adjusted timing or the mixture much yet either!

For the weight vs. power arguement, I chased down Big Mike from Marlin Crawler at the Jambo. He's running a 3rz (150hp) and think he's ~3400 lbs (waiting on him to hit the scales to verify). Two runs, dead stop, to ~60. I should have asked waht his speedo said. Just know we were in 3rd, high range, running decent RPM. The 2 rigs seemed like they were bolted together. Same launch, same speeds, though shifts and all. Both are running 37's nd 5.29, and 5speeds as well. It was interesting, and better than I thought this formula would do!

I thought Big mike was supercharged too?(200+HP)

And some playing on the sand dunes

you get your vag cleaned out?

I thought Big mike was supercharged too?(200+HP)

he said he was having problems with fuel management and tuning using the stock components and didnt want to drop the money for piggy pack engine management system.

ive reading around about forced induction and the TRD stuff plain sucks using the stock engine management since they have to meet emissions. www.customtacos.com - lots of good info here, including LOTS of info on turbos.

you get your vag cleaned out?



he said he was having problems with fuel management and tuning using the stock components and didnt want to drop the money for piggy pack engine management system.

ive reading around about forced induction and the TRD stuff plain sucks using the stock engine management since they have to meet emissions. www.customtacos.com - lots of good info here, including LOTS of info on turbos.

:laughing: :flipoff2:

I did get a pair of shorts filled from the open foot wells, thanks Chris! Funny thing was, thats the first time anything but snow has come in thorough there! Head over to crawlinbc.com Theyve got a short video of me going after a dune. Its short, and Im trying to hear the engine RPM.

Mike was NA, has SC, but for reasons mentioned, he's not running it.

Awesome. All the way through :beer:

Couple vids from the Hammers, thanks you crazy canucks!

playing on a dune, real short http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avBHP6M4puU&feature=related


some visibility video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbkQzG_Wqe0&feature=related


and a pic stolen from the canucks!
http://www.crawlinbc.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17321&d=1209540368

hey brian :p


tommy here

ftoy worked awesome


ill throw up a few more pics when i am home on my computer

hope to see u check out crawlin every now and again. :beer:

hey brian :p


tommy here

ftoy worked awesome


ill throw up a few more pics when i am home on my computer

hope to see u check out crawlin every now and again. :beer:

Thanks, will check in as well. Glad you enjoyed the ride!

Been a bit, some updates with some comp shots.

Front hangers need more bracing, basically a horizontal plate inside. Now after 3 comps, Hammers, and local trails, they are destroyed.

Rear xmember, did well until it was dropped ~10'+ Its has been replaced with 10g skinned over 2 pieces of 1.25 .095 moly, still tapered.

Pic is ~.5 second before the xmember is deemed junk, from landing on that fin of rock we flew off!

So close to getting this climb!

Marlin trying to delay our already late start Sunday morning! :D

Trying so hard to miss the cone. I dont think it was possible, the rear just scuffed right through it.

Ready for Donner?

:beer:

Ready for Donner?

:beer:

Just need to replace front hangers, and a list of other things we'd like to do/make/modify/check! :p

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=377354&stc=1&d=1214436044

something is wrong with this pic.......i cant seem to put my finger on it. maybe something to with tg? good luck brian

later tj

In comp, series Sponsors stickers must be run on all vehicles
PRP, Front Range, Marlin, and tg are the 4 sponsors this year.

In comp, series Sponsors stickers must be run on all vehicles
PRP, Front Range, Marlin, and tg are the 4 sponsors this year.

I am also a sponsor, I give product not $$ & I sent my decals to A2b several months ago

In comp, series Sponsors stickers must be run on all vehicles
PRP, Front Range, Marlin, and tg are the 4 sponsors this year.

i know i just have to give you shit about it.

how youre wheels holding up ? :flipoff2:

I am also a sponsor, I give product not $$ & I sent my decals to A2b several months ago

Darren, dont you do a contingency deal?

I dont think Ive seen a post specifically about it in the ftoy forum, maybe throw one up.

how youre wheels holding up ? :flipoff2:

Hardy har har.

Since Ive found, (for now) where we want backspace, now its time to put on non-broken, and bent locks.

Darren, dont you do a contingency deal?

I dont think Ive seen a post specifically about it in the ftoy forum, maybe throw one up.


yes
I chimed in one thread about how I wanted to still donate to this class, but thew $500 a year deal is outa my budget:( I donate either product or gift certificates to like 5+ events a month & it adds up!:grinpimp:

So a2b made some calls & I'm in there as contingency with store credit:)

Gota help in anyway I can, love Toyota's!!!!!!!!!!!

Darren also gives us kickass deals when simply ordering panels.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=375810&stc=1&d=1213649773

yes
I chimed in one thread about how I wanted to still donate to this class, but thew $500 a year deal is outa my budget:( I donate either product or gift certificates to like 5+ events a month & it adds up!:grinpimp:

So a2b made some calls & I'm in there as contingency with store credit:)

Gota help in anyway I can, love Toyota's!!!!!!!!!!!

BOD doesnt even need to be involved, so pimp your sponsorship a bit in a thread in ftoy. Should be cool to do, and you could even do contingency for ALL classes if you wanted.

Little updates:
The couple pieces we were concerned about lasted a while, and finally gave in. First on the list, rear xmember. Apparently when you do this:

And continue on down

Then start to level out for landing (note xmember is still straight!)

And the landing! Oooh! :p

You get to get home with this:

So, since that was 3/16 plate, a little 3/4" tube, and some 14 or 16g I think. We replaced it with 2 pieces of 1.25 4130 tubing, and skinned with 10g. Should be good to go! We didnt weigh the old and new, but I dont think we added any weight at all!

Mmmmm Beefy!:D

Now for a little educational part, how to right from a roll, using pics from 08 Cedar comp. #2, from of course, Kelly @ On The Marq!

Step one, get in a bad spot (this is typically the easiest part!)

Notice large rocks in front of both passenger tires, pass side is against one of them, and the drivers rear is heading for a bit of a hole. This normally wouldnt be so bad, expect the driver (me) applied a bit too much throttle, I think all of it!

And up we go!

This pic makes me laugh, an do the the buggy didnt stop here.

Whee!

Here's where it stopped. Compare the front tire angle with the start of this, youll see they are turned much more. Youll also notice the rear tire is coming up, the buggy is in process of righting, by driving forwards.

And, walla, rig on the ground, and if I remember less than 1 minute on the clock, we're done!

And more too come, as we are tearing down a bit, and prepping for KOH '09!

So I see your re-building for KOH also. Are you still planning on WeRock in 09?

How did your did wiring turn out, I have the same problem on f-toy 112

How did your did wiring turn out, I have the same problem on f-toy 112

Wiring is great, we had Offroad Solutions build the harness, whole buggy harness. The only thing we'll be doing to that is final mounting of the loom, and shortening a couple circuits we had them leave extra long!

Wiring is great, we had Offroad Solutions build the harness, whole buggy harness. The only thing we'll be doing to that is final mounting of the loom, and shortening a couple circuits we had them leave extra long!


quit screening your calls and answer the damn phone when I call :flipoff2:

quit screening your calls and answer the damn phone when I call :flipoff2:

Call when we're open!

Call when we're open!

Damn time zones. :p

quit screening your calls and answer the damn phone when I call :flipoff2:

It's not just you. He doesn't answer when I call him either:flipoff2:



And I have ALL his numbers.

It's not just you. He doesn't answer when I call him either:flipoff2:



And I have ALL his numbers.

Note to self, change cell # :D

You just have that knack for calling at perfect wrong times. Like when Im boarding an airplane, sitting down to dinner, or on the phone with Pook! :laughing:

He answers when I call cuz he doesn't recognize my # on caller ID.:D

Very nice job on the roll driveback. I've done it a couple times but with the auto you gotta be fast. If you hesitate or allow the wheels to stop normally you have no drive.

He answers when I call cuz he doesn't recognize my # on caller ID.:D

Very nice job on the roll driveback. I've done it a couple times but with the auto you gotta be fast. If you hesitate or allow the wheels to stop normally you have no drive.

Actually we just got caller ID a week ago. We dont and wont screen calls.

Those too clowns are complaining about me not answering my cell phone! :shaking::D

Get anything finished up yet? lets see some pics :flipoff2:

We're hoping to have it driveable again this weekend. We need to check rear suspension and steering changes before the snow flies!

nice pics! :D Whats your skidplate/bellypan made out of?

Right now belly is a grid of 1" and 1.25 4130 tubing, skinned with 3/16 steel.

We'll be changing that, likely to 1/8" dimpled with uhmw skin over it. We might try 1/8" skid of something more interesting than mild steel (4xxx series, ar plate, etc)

My 1/8" aluminum covered with UHMW lived nicely and is less than 1/4 of the weight of my old 3/16" steel one.

Some pice of the new steering. With this setup bumpsteer is all but eliminated (same bumpsteer as a typical high steer rig would have). Sand from KOH, and water from CO in the spring havent been kind as of lately, hence the rust.

Rod ends are factory chevy 3/4 ton I believe, and stock arms were retapered to fit.
The top down shows a welded-to-rod end spacer.
The factory hole was drilled out to 5/8 as well.

Do you have any issues with the leaf springs touching the draglink when you flex out the passenger side? What about tierod to draglink clearance during articulation?

This might be the ticket for guys wanting to put an FJ80 front end under a leaf sprung minitruck.

Do you have any issues with the leaf springs touching the draglink when you flex out the passenger side? What about tierod to draglink clearance during articulation?

This might be the ticket for guys wanting to put an FJ80 front end under a leaf sprung minitruck.

Articulation clearance is fine. They rub, at least to remove paint, but nothing you can feel. Notching "catches"

Only contact to springs, is straight droop, turned full lock to the right, and the paint gets rubbed off the top of the draglink. Again nothing you can notice, just missing paint.

I would mention as a caution to others, this is extremely tight to fit, and will not be an option for most. Our front springs sit almost flat at ride height, the pitman is fabricated, and the draglink has 2 bends, in different planes. It took the better part of an afternoon playing with bits of tubing, tacking, bending, redoing, etc to figure the layout needed for the draglink tube. It also only clears the winch by 1/4" at full compression.

What do you use for a steering arm on the "drivers" side with that low-steering setup?

His draglink goes to the tierod. And he's running stock toy arms.

Brian you staying at the hotel in Reno?

His draglink goes to the tierod. And he's running stock toy arms.

Yes, I realize all of that, but the "stock" toy arm is a J-arm on the drivers side... I was just wondering if he cut the rest of the J off, or if he had something manufactured.

Yes, I realize all of that, but the "stock" toy arm is a J-arm on the drivers side... I was just wondering if he cut the rest of the J off, or if he had something manufactured.

Cut it off...

Cut it off...

Yes, chopped it off.

And yes staying at the Sands in Reno. I beleive they still have rooms for the "rocks 09" code. Super cheap too! :)

I've been booked for a few weeks already just need to make the rig run... but I thought they were sold out now.

I've been booked for a few weeks already just need to make the rig run... but I thought they were sold out now.

Might be. I know we cancelled off a room (had 2 originally) only ~1 week ago.

Another Q about the steering, how is your gear box mounted, just like any other high-steer setup or the frame notched?

Where you drag link attaches now, looks just like how the stock steering stabilizer would attach on the drivers side of a factory pickup.

Frame has a gentle notch for the fabricated pitman arm.

Yes, thats typically what that hole is used for, and sometimes a draglink hook up. We drilled it out for a bolt, and welded the spacer to it as well.

Sweet rig, I want to copy your inboard hangers..

Sweet rig, I want to copy your inboard hangers..

Thanks, and go for it! Just do at least a little plating on the bottom end of the hanger to inside of rail. Doesnt need to be much, the small bit we did is working fine.

Ironically, we're planning another update to this buildup, as we've added/changed a number of things now, as it gets closer to "done".

Any updates? Or to busy selling housings? :D

I dont even remember what's new since this was updated! Probably the fuel cell, rear shocks/mounts, bumpstops, front hood support, oil cooler, and a few other things. Its going in for quick bit of work, including replacing the transmission, engine, re-springing, and hopefully redoing the dash. Followed shortly by redo 1/2 the exhaust and add a rear seat, rework of the belly skid, and probably adding a couple more gallons to the fuel cell too.

We'll get some pics up next week probably, of progress in getting this done.

Anything fancy on your motor, or just clean/stock?
Rebuilt/same trans, or going shorter/L52?

This is one of my favorite FToys (inspired me to build my own! :flipoff2:)

pretty much all of the Ftoy builds are good, but this one is fulllll of pics which makes it easier for us with a Alabama public school High School diploma :D

Did you run those negative lift springs in KOH?

Anything fancy on your motor, or just clean/stock?
Rebuilt/same trans, or going shorter/L52?

This is one of my favorite FToys (inspired me to build my own! :flipoff2:)

Wow, flattering, thanks!

Rebuilt motor, just a mild cam, bored, metal guides, adj cam gear. Looks like a stock head for now, timing just wont allow cool stuff there. But a head swap isnt hard on this buggy at all.

Blew up reverse by trying high range int he snow, 40's, and dumping the clutch. Poor trans has over 100k on it with 36's or better, and ~25k total, so it did very well! Swapping in just another stocker w56, after checking it out. Part of why we used this trans. I dont like the weak forks in the turbo trans, still has a weak reverse too. But w56, plentiful, and strong forks. Just got to keep the front case in low in the snow!

pretty much all of the Ftoy builds are good, but this one is fulllll of pics which makes it easier for us with a Alabama public school High School diploma :D

Did you run those negative lift springs in KOH?

I dont think we've got enough, but will be working to add more. We wanted a thread that didnt walk folks through, but inspired thoughts on how to try things a little different.

The springs that are on currently have only been changed once (I think), these have run through KOH, Jambo, and 7 comps I think, and a 80 mile short course race. Theyre just a little tired, little bent, and since its not competing, rockcrawling anyway, we're wanting to stiffen the front up just a touch. Then it will handle better for the short course, 100-150 mile races, when it gets cool 33's on it too!

As for lift, it measures out somewhere around 0-1" suspension lift.

Decided to make a new thread with current updates, rahter than make this thread any more of a novel!
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=903061

Awesome build, just read it all the way through! Although I am a diehard Ford guy and the extent of my Toyota knowledge and experience is "I helped a buddy with his", I am a BIGTIME yoyo fan.

I was thinking about experimenting with the f-toy cage on an early Bronco platform. I by no means think it would be a bolt-on buggy, but it would be much easier than building one from zero, and dimensionally they're pretty close. I also would like to strut it in front of Big Rich, just to see if the wheels start turning in his head!

Can you PM the measurements side to side? Just trying to get an idear...
Thanks-Mike

Can you PM the measurements side to side? Just trying to get an idear...
Thanks-Mike

Here ya go:

http://hendrixmotorsports.com/id4.html