I got a couple things I've been thinking of and a rant. Need help with some ways to prevent my jeep from being stolen for what its worth. :flipoff2:


1. Cutoff Switchs
How do you mount these? Just cut the wire going to the solinoid and then put a switch between it? I am going to put one hidden and one on the dash.


2. Remove dat Steerin Wheel!!
I don't know what parts to buy.
I want these: Grants Disconnect (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRT%2D2001&N=700+%2D128284+115&autoview=sku) & Steering Wheel (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRT%2D838&N=700+%2D128284+115&autoview=sku)

But I don't know if it will work on my steering column or not. Got all stock steering right now. How can I get a removeable one?



3. The Club
Seams kind of stupid to even try and put one on a CJ7, I don't even know how they work. They keep your from steering?

What product is it that locks the clutch peddle to the steering wheel?



4. NO SHIFTING
I guess nothing out there will prevent you from shifting it out of gear and rolling away with it. I just try to put the wheel at full and lock the column.



Anything anyone wants to contrib?

get a dog that loves being in the car, try a rottie, or maybe a dingo?

also try the FAQ

An old timer hot-rod builder I know told me a couple good tricks that he uses.

#1 Weld a tab onto the tie-rod and to your housing. Align them so when you turn your wheels all the way to the lock the holes on the tabs align and then padlock it. Not even a tow truck driver will want to steal what he can't get on his truck.

#2 Fix a similar padlock arrangement to your emergency brake. Makes it tougher.

He feels like the electronic prevention measures will only deter an idiot. If you can install it, someone can work around it. How many car/Rig thieves carry a padlock cutter.

FYI, I don't think removable steering wheels are DOT legal. And anyone can shatter the lock on the club with a little freon.

I used to park my Jeep behind the neighbors project car, then my truck with alarm behind it. Starting the Jeep meant setting off my truck alarm, putting it on a trailer required moving the project first, and dragging it sideways was impractical.

Cool, I don't carry a project car and another truck with me everywhere I go and parking spaces here are usually only two wide.

Cool, I don't carry a project car and another truck with me everywhere I go and parking spaces here are usually only two wide.

I made a bracket that slips over my clutch, brake, and accel pedals and padlocks. Keeps any of the 3 from being depressed. Loop of braided SS cable (hard to cut with boltcutters) off the seat frame to padlock around the gearshift. Until I went propane, ball valve on the fuel line (manual pump, no return line). With propane, hidden switches to both the HEI and electric lockoff valve. Tank valves turned off too when parked. When sitting in my (level) yard, and not in the garage, I set the brake and bump the twin-stick xfer into neutral, so if somebody did start it, they stand a chance of not figuring that out.

Basically, like you are thinking, multiple things to do before cranking up. Some mechanical, some electrical. Require more than 1 tool to defeat everything.

FWIW, it's proven that drawing attention will deter thieves. disabling the ignition is a great way to do this. it makes a lot of noise hearing a car that won't start. just put the switch were it would be difficult to find. under the dash is where everyone would look so it would be easy to find.

or you could get a boot for your wheel.

someone i recently talked to had an old floor mount high beam switch run to his ignition, i believe he had it run to a relay or fuse, and he had to step on it to allow the keyed ignition to work.

I'm going to get a locking hood latch kit from quadratec. Then when I run my tack wires from the coil, I'll run some wires too the back in my tool box.

Inside the cool box I'll bring the cables up the floor and into the box to a military switch that has to be in the "On" position for it to be turned off. Revesed so something can bounch up and hit it. I can put an outlet box over it. My toolbox has a lock and two pad locks. Kind of hard to get inside.
THESE CABLES will be run from the inside of the jeep following the path of the tail lights so not to stand out.

This will disable the coil. I can add the ball valve idea when I add my frame mounted fuel pump.



I like the ideas!! Is 10g wire enough from the coil to the switch and back or should I use 12g or even 14g for the length? I think the 12g is the highest I'll need honestly but I'm not that good with electrical.

I like the ideas!! Is 10g wire enough from the coil to the switch and back or should I use 12g or even 14g for the length? I think the 12g is the highest I'll need honestly but I'm not that good with electrical.

First, you got that backasswards. 10g is bigger, can carry more current. 14ga is smallest of those 3.

Second, I always run a fused hot straight from the battery to the coil, shortest line possible, but pass it thru a relay. Then something like 16ga is used from the IGN switch (then thru a hidden switch) to the relay to power it on and "turn on" the power to the coil. For the line from the batt (to the relay) to the coil, use 12ga, and I put in a heavy fuse, like 30amp...all you are really protecting against at that point is a dead short. Use a relay rated for continuous duty (designed to be held "on" for long periods of time). A napa/naughtyzone headlight relay works good for this and is cheap.

I did this on my CJ, it took care of a frustrating miss I had. The 35 year old stock 16ga wiring just couldn't get enough power to my coil once I switched over to HEI. I went from probably 8' of 16ga to only 1.5' of 12ga from the battery to energize the coil.

How much do you think taking the wheel will do?

My rig is flip switch Ign. and push button start. It *Might* also have a remote fuel pump interupt as well.
I have a sweet Mfg. wheel disco that I got from station. With my full hydro I could steer the jeep with channel locks if I had to...although you cannot steer with with nothing ( I tried)


The best Idea I have though of for theft protection is a removable fuel line... a 6 inch section of line near my fuel cell that has the hydro. no leak type quick disconnects on it. You could then take that 6 inch section and lock it in the house.

Fuel cutoff
Hydraulic brake lock

My Jeep had a Grant removable steering wheel on it when I bought it. I have had inspections done for 7 yrs now with no problem. I also think it is a pretty good deterent. Not guaranteed, but enough to make the thief think it prob isn't worth taking.

If someone wants it, they'll take it.

Mine is alarmed, alarm system is equiped with starter shut off and fuel line shut off.

It also has two clubs on it, always turn your wheel to full lock before putting the clubs on it. The whole point of a club is so that you can't turn the freaking wheel.

The grant system has a cover to make it harder for you to actually clamp something down on it. I'd say removing the steering column as opposed to destroying it to remove the cap would be better.

Cool, I don't carry a project car and another truck with me everywhere I go and parking spaces here are usually only two wide.

Sure, nitpick at the tiny flaw in my plan. Seriously though, I'm interested in these ideas too, not just trying to be an ass.

http://www.ravelco.com/