im tryen 2 get some more flex out my yj.i was thinken bout soem teraflex revolder shackles ive herd good and bad any opinions guys.all my jeep has right now is a 2.5 inch lift kit from procomp soem dumbass put it on before i had it.or shud i just got regular shakles then when i get more money go with a 4.5 inch lift and shakles.im basicly just lookin for a nice route to go.

Mine flexs good with spring over

First thing is to make sure to take off the trac-bars and the sway bar.

i coudl be completly wrong but i thought yjs dotn come whit sway bars because leaf springs i am a newbie tho ive owned my jeep a month and im 19 so im naturaly a dumb ass.

my 89 came with sway and track bars. mine is also spring over and it flexes very well.

i cant realy afford a spring over kit right away im a strugglen colledge snowboarder i know it sounds stupid but this is my second project.im just a broek dick tryen 2 make shit work.

Rubicon 4.5" extreme-duty.

No offense 95YJ but if your a "strugglen colledge snowboarder", you really need to put your responses in MS Word and use the spell check function. If you are in college, most instructors won't even accept what you have wrote. Believe me the PBB will flame you on this. It is really hard to read your responses.

X2 on the RE 4.5"
I would stay away from the revolver shackles. Do a search on those things and you will find you need to stay away from them. Another thing you don't want to do is a shackle lift over 1/2". Stock shackles are at 4" from eyebolt to eyebolt. I wouldn't go over 5".
Get some swaybar disconnects if you want more flex. If your broke and can't afford the RE 4.5" just wheel the thing for a while until you get some money.
I put on the Standard RE 4". In doing that you have to also purchase a Slip Yoke Eliminator and Constant Velocity driveline. So you are looking at spending $1,200 or more.
Like I said just wheel it for a year and research some more before you start buying dumb ass things for it first.
Cheers.
:D

I vote for spring over. Don't buy any kit. The most expensive part should be the SYE and CV shaft. It should be cheaper than the RE 4.5" kit and it will flex better.

Also, stay away from the revolvers. Unpredictable unloading.

For SUS definitely RE, I had it and kicked major ass. save your pennies, and get the kit, easy setup. If you are looking for something more, and have the fabbing skills, go SOA, much cheaper and straight forward, and a lot of flex.

RE 4.5 extreme duty:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/geberhard/before.jpg

same rig with soa:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/geberhard/1guihh.jpg

No offense 95YJ but if your a "strugglen colledge snowboarder", you really need to put your responses in MS Word and use the spell check function. If you are in college, most instructors won't even accept what you have wrote. Believe me the PBB will flame you on this. It is really hard to read your responses.

Yeah, I'd stick to school for a while if I were you.

Worst
Spelling
Ever.

I'd also look at 3.5" BDS. It's comparable to the RE lift but a kickass warranty.

Stay away from the Revolvers, but a longer shackle is necessary to get good flex from large lift springs. I ran a 1.5" lift shackle with my BDS kit and while it was hideous, it worked awesome. And expect to do a SYE and CV driveshaft with any suspension lift over 4" so add that cost in too.

Whoever says SOA is cheaper than a good SUA kit is smoking crack.

And lastly, STAY IN SCHOOL, especially English. Don't go around calling people dumbasses until you can spell "should" correctly. :shaking:

Whoever says SOA is cheaper than a good SUA kit is smoking crack.


:smokin: :crack:

Whoever says SOA is cheaper than a good SUA kit is smoking crack.

Yes and No. You can get more bang for the buck with the SOA, even if he has to pay high dollar for someone to weld the perches on for him.

Regardless you are going to have to get a DS & SYE.

RE XD 4.5" vs. RE SOA kit = SOA kit.

(If you talk to the right vendor you can get the SOA kit for around $240., SYE for $209. and DS... that all depends on who you go to, traction bar $198.)

If I were to stay SUA - definetly 4.5" from RE or a BDS (just because of thier warrenty)

Others have pretty well summed up a good answer but I'll ditto the no revolvers. Those are problems waiting to happen IMO.

As for more flex, ditch your rear trac bar and at the ver least, get some disco's for the front. Personally, I'd keep the front track bar if you're on the road much. I found it made a huge different in steering response at speed. Also, I have a wife that drives my jeep and a daughter, for me, keeping the sway bar was added piece of mind. The disco's allow me to get the flex back when I want it.

Yep, I must be smoking crack then. I spent a fraction on my SOA compared to the SUA kit from RE (and I bought the RE for a way killer deal ;)).

Consider for a decent lift over 3.5" of lift you are going with a SYE and cv shaft, so this is a cost for both lifts if you are doing right.

Check on my build thread some ballparks, and parts, etc. Aside from steering, a low end SOA can be done for as cheap as a few hundred bucks if you know where to buy what you are looking for. I.e. People are spending almost that much just on stainless steel braided brake lines. Go to www.speedwaymotors.com or some other track vendors and you can find them for as cheapas $15 for a 48" stainless steel braided line, same or better quality, and I am not cheap when it comes to safety, but there is plenty of stuff out there that can be looked into for a lot less.


Bang for buck, the SOA is hard to beat period. I will not get into teh discussion here, since it is been beaten to hell.

Teh recommendatin continues, RE Extreme DUty is the best SUA lift out there in my opinion. And stick to the basics, good springs, good shackles and no revolvers.

thank you for your help everyone.i know my spelling is bad notice i called my self a dumbass,but i didnt need everyone 2 i can plainly c how bad i am i dont need direction atleast im tryen 2 go 2 college.thanx everyone i guess ima start lookin into spring over axle.can some one get some pics on them flexen there yj's on here.

I know some people are going to flame my set-up, but it does fine for what I'll be doing (At least until drivetrain is beefed up). Just messing around in the front yard right here. Trac bar (front) is still connected but the sway bar I unhooked, you can see the RF link hanging in front of the steering arm. And I don't have a SYE yet but I'm 'bout to get an NP231 with one installed already for $150

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/3674/pict0028rr1.jpg

I was able to crawl up onto the wood block but my e-brake grabs like chit and it slipped back down. Barely made it up that high but I won't be flexing my rig like that all the time. It's not the greatest flexing machine but I think it does puuurty good :D

I know some people are going to flame my set-up, but it does fine for what I'll be doing (At least until drivetrain is beefed up). Just messing around in the front yard right here. Trac bar (front) is still connected but the sway bar I unhooked, you can see the RF link hanging in front of the steering arm. And I don't have a SYE yet but I'm 'bout to get an NP231 with one installed already for $150

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/3674/pict0028rr1.jpg

I was able to crawl up onto the wood block but my e-brake grabs like chit and it slipped back down. Barely made it up that high but I won't be flexing my rig like that all the time. It's not the greatest flexing machine but I think it does puuurty good :D

A) It would flex better if you had a little less than 30 PSI in the tires, lets try 10.

B) My RE kit flexes better than that. :p

C) The Driveway aint for wheeling.

D) Lets photo shop some trees, bushes and dirt, maybe a Rock or two and see how the suspension handles in the real world.

E) Sell the audio equiptment and invest in a real rear axle.

lmfao

95yj, check out this old write-up from jedi: www.jedi.com great info, some stuff is way outdatd as far as prices, but will help ya.

Good luck!

A) It would flex better if you had a little less than 30 PSI in the tires, lets try 10.

B) My RE kit flexes better than that. :p

C) The Driveway aint for wheeling.

D) Lets photo shop some trees, bushes and dirt, maybe a Rock or two and see how the suspension handles in the real world.

E) Sell the audio equiptment and invest in a real rear axle.

A) I didn't feel like airing down the tires, and I didn't think about it anyway since I was just screwing around. And the rims are 15X10, I've heard that I can't get them down to 10 PSI without busting the bead. I've had them down to about 17 lb at the lowest. Yea, 10" wide wheels aren't great for off-road but for all 5 wheels.tires for $500 I wasn't going to pass up.

B) I'll have an RE 4.5" when I decide to upgrade. For now I'll do fine with the RC 4". I love the highway ride too, fawkin sweet

C) I wasn't wheeling :grinpimp:

D) I haven't been on anything crazy, but I've been on some gnarly PG&E trails, fire roads, things like that and it's done great thus far. I won't be hitting the rocks that much until drivetrain upgrades are done.

E) I like tunes :flipoff2: :smokin:

I've just started my build, it's going to be a slow proces but I plan on making it a decent trail rig. It's not anything like most of the rigs on here but at least I know it's not shit right now. It's a DD too, for a while

i hope some guy doesn't jack your radio man.

i hope some guy doesn't jack your radio man.
I live in a good area (fortunately) and the amp is well hidden, speakers are screwed in with those square head screws (Stereo shop told me most thieves don't carry these kinds of tools, hopefully I don't have to find out), if the HU gets stolen I'll be out $200. It's a Jeep and I know it's easy to get in but I'm willing to take a chance. Had the system in my old S-10 Blazer jacked a few years ago, I wasn't a happy camper when it happened. I thought it would have stopped me from installing another one but like I said, I like tunes :D

Here is some useful info on Revolvers
http://www.bc4x4.com/pv/yj/revolvers/

I use them on the front of my SUA YJ. Had them on the rear with some unusual handeling when the rear would unload, so I took them off. They add a ton of extra travel, and seem to work well on the front only. They are not as cheep as you think to install, though. To get your moneys worth you need to change a lot of other things (shocks, shock tower, brake lines). It may not be worth it, if you have the time to go SOA.

When I can scrape the time together to do SOA I will ditch them on the front, too. RE has a kit with all the SOA basics for about $300.

Better real world info:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=496609&highlight=Revolvers

Want flex get some bigger axles and a spring over.......Just playin battles!!


http://a718.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/36/l_0eba2f063cd758e75f4194cc9aa12fe5.jpg

Better real world info:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=496609&highlight=Revolvers

Uhhh there was like one dude in there that had some good info:confused:

def SOA. i agree that you can do it right for less than a REALLY GOOD SUA kit. just my $0.02! and you will be happier for much longer...

95YJ,
Until your ready to invest in a different lift (and I'd agree that if done right, SOA is less expensive than a traditional SUA lift), do the following.

1) Remove front & rear track bars
You will not notice that the rear is missing, on the street. If you dont like how the Jeep drives around town without the front track bar, put it back on.

2) Disconnect the anti-sway bar up front
You can pick up sway bar quick disconnects that will make it easy to disconnect/reconnect it for street/trail use. Many folks just remove the sway bar. Even being SOA, I still use it on my rig. Just makes it a little more street friendly.


It's a Jeep, not a sports car. It ain't ment to 'corner'.

Better real world info

15 replies and two people run/ran 'em.

I still run them in the rear of my rig.

OP I'd run what you got, till the $$$ permits you to do what you want.

Doug

I just picked up some shackles 2 day for 60 bucks.1.5 inch shackles so we will c how that does.Im putten them on right now but there bein a bitch fucken washers wont fit in there.

i have a 4" rusty's lift kit, sua with removed track bars f/r, autozone shackles in the rear ext 1", and homemade discos. (i had 33's on it but stepped back down to 31's while i save for 36's and build parts) i flexed it out on a snow bank while waiting for a friend the other day near the massachusetts turnpike.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/gus310/my%20yj/P3130001.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/gus310/my%20yj/flex2.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/gus310/my%20yj/flex1.jpg

15 replies and two people
run/ran 'em.
Doug

Not too good at the counting thing huh?

1.SVENG52: Wheeling They Unloaded,
2.rino:I had no issues with them and they flex great,
3.jps4jeep:not that great,
4.blackbeauty:i have yet to have them unload on me,
5.crwlinyj: I have had a set in the rear of my jeep for 5 years never had a problem with them,
6.georgia: I run them...no problems....,
7.92 Green YJ: i too have been running em front and rear for a few years now and have never had an issue with them

Wow-I count seven quotes-and like most real world opinions-they vary.

My Point:
I personally have had them unload on me-on the road-cornering and awkward times offroad- I had a set when they first came out. When they work-they work well-but its not a comfortable set-up. I don't think they are as bad as the reputation they get on PBB-but I don't think they are great either.

My $.02...

I wheeled a 93' YJ with a Rubicon Express Spring-Over-Axle setup for years. I think I spent $250 on it at the time. I lengthened my driveline at a driveline shop for like $75. I never did a SYE conversion and never had much vibration in my driveshaft. I was having a tough time deciding before I did the swap. I was a poor college kid too. I was lucky enough to have friends around who were fairly hardcore wheelers to steer me in a good direction and help with the project. You can get better parts cheaper if you know where to look. The RE kit has what you need and is cheap. You would be better running some RS9000's rather than the shocks they give you. You will need to weld a few things, not much though. If you are going to weld then you should cut out your old front shock towers and weld in some Ford towers. It is super easy to do. I took off my swaybar and my track bars (panhard bars) and ran only springs. With 33" BFG MT's and open diffs I had plenty of flex and coud get through all kinds of tough terrain. I was wheeling on the Rubicon and on 4dyce / Signal peak etc. It was set up for wheeling but I used it as my daily driver too. It was squirly and would get speed wobbles at high speeds like on the freeway when I hit a bunmp. Having said that, I loved every bit of it. You don't drive it like a car because it's not a car, it's a rig. If you build it to wheel it is going to be less commute friendly. The most hardcore wheeling machines are not even street legal. If you really want to wheel then you are going to spend a lot of money. You are generally going to spend it one of two ways. #1 You spend a bunch of money replacing everything that came in your Jeep with much stronger components (not just building up your current running gear) or #2 You will spend a lot of money constantly fixing the stuff you break over and over. With my diff's open and a 4 cyl motor i was lucky enough to just blow out the occasional u-joint and not very often but the rig had it's limitations too. I never broke an axle but I was very lucky. I would build it that way again (with 9000's instead) if I had it to do all over. Oh and your e-brake cabe will limit your flex on one side. That would be true of any good flexy suspension though. Unless you are ready to spend a few hundred bucks (and it rarely stops there in this sport) I would just catch a ride in your buddy's rig and save up your money. :beer:

Oh yeah....Buy the red star. It's 20 bucks and you can search all the PBB database for all the info you could ever want about building your rig. It is worth every penny IMHO. :D

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/gus310/my%20yj/P3130001.jpg


That stinger is absurdly retarded... I thought mine was bad but damn.

i got my shackles on and ima post pics tomarrrow.

Not too good at the counting thing huh?


I did word my sentence wrong. It should of said, two that didn't like 'em.

The rest liked 'em, and like most threads, people say "I heard about them"

:beer:

Doug

man i wont ride in my buddys rig.i run what i brung if i break shit i break it and if i can run it still i will.

^lol^

it would flex more with some rear wheelwell trimming and air down that tire is 39" off the ground with 25 psi in tires.........flexes even more now since i took my patented reverse track bar off.....some people will understand that.

4" RE springs SOA one leaf removed in rear springs. no swaybar
front axle 6" forward rear axle 1" back.....which is why i need to trim the rear...

drives great.....until you have to turn, but body roll is cool right?

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/jackson76550/flex1.jpg

dude ur yj is fucken bad

dude ur yj is fucken bad

So are your skills of the English language.


Jackson, any side pics of your rig? How did you deal with your steering box?

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/gus310/my%20yj/P3130001.jpg I think that stinger hooks into a ski lift or something.:shaking: Nice parking brake though...............

the steering box is in the stock location.... i built my own high steer arm to help compensate, which is less than ideal, but seems to work pretty good. working on hydro assist now to take some stress off my steering gearbox

these pics are kinda old and you cant really see much of the steering but here they are


http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/jackson76550/side.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/jackson76550/rear.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/jackson76550/bumper.jpg

these are the only pics I have from when it was still SUA. That's a ProComp 2.5" lift and 35's.

I'd wheel it just like you have it.

Are jeep are almost like twins.yeah i know its small but shackles helped alot.http://images3.pictiger.com/thumbs/74/49531a38abc57663e781f93ec6347874.th.jpg (http://server3.pictiger.com/img/940753/picture-hosting/image-021.php)

the steering box is in the stock location.... i built my own high steer arm to help compensate, which is less than ideal, but seems to work pretty good. working on hydro assist now to take some stress off my steering gearbox

these pics are kinda old and you cant really see much of the steering but here they are

Thanks, that's a good looking rig. I have full high steer, so to push my front axle forward that far would cross up my steering something fierce.

well i kinda figured out what im aiming towards.I started looking for waggy front and rear ends because i was told i can use them and there dana 44s and i think i shud be fine because im only gonna be running 36s.i was also told waggy springs are shitty.So i shud look into getting alcan springs?any recommendations on a sye.

im running waggy axles out of a 77 model and had to outboard my springs..... using 4" re springs with a spring over. see grey yj pics.....as for sye, what kind of transfer case? ive never been a fan of double cardan shafts so i just run a fixed yoke and single cardan shaft.....had better luck that way

im running waggy axles out of a 77 model and had to outboard my springs.....

I was running a driver's drop Waggy from an 89 and didn't have to do anything. The rear axle required me to relocate the spring perches, but nothing major... no moving springs, etc. In fact, those axles are on in the pictures I posted above.

any recommendations on a sye.

Assuming you still have the stock t-case, the vast majority of SYE's you'll find on the market are all made by the same company. Omix-Ada. Shop for price and customer service unless you want to go all out but IMO, all of the "standard" ones are interchangeable. I bought mine through a local company but since they're not a PBB vendor, I won't link them. PORC is a PBB vendor and they have pretty good prices on SYE's for Jeeps regularly.

If you're looking for something special, check out JB Conversions for their Super Short. It adds a few inches of precious driveline length but requires a piggy back speed computer because it uses a preset tone ring instead of a speedo gear. The YJ speedo cannot be reprogrammed at the computer so you'll need to add the tuner to the system.

For a DS, I've used junkyard shafts for the last couple of years. My YJ only sees about 6k a year and it's not a DD so I didn't feel the need to go out and buy a brand new shafts. Others will certainly feel differently but I was able to get two XJ front shafts at the junkyard and have them cut down for less than the cost of 1 new shaft. That price also included the flange adapter for my 8.8 rear. Good donor shafts come from XJ's, TJ's, and Exploreres that I know of off the top of my head.

My reccomendation for springs is this. Run Rubicon Express 1.5" lift SOA springs in front (about $300) and run a pair of XJ (Cherokee) springs in the rear. This will allow you to space the axles further apart (wheelbase strech) by a few inches. It will give you a better highway ride and a better stance when wheeling. I got my XJ springs for $20, painted them and installed them. If you go the XJ route (your stock YJ springs will work fine too) you may want to make a traction bar (ladder bar, anti axle wrap bar etc.) The springs are very flexy and your spring and u-joint life will benefit from the traction link. Check out the build link in my sig if you want to see how I did it all. Good luck and happy wheeling!

^
Were you able to keep the gas tank in the stock location with XJ springs? Every rear WB stretch I've seen over an inch or two required the relocation of the gas tank in a YJ. Personally, that's not an option because I have little passengers that needs stuff like seats and belts and gas tanks don't make great seats.

Yes, I diddn't have to move the gas tank. I have a little boy too and I needed to keep my back seat. I will try to post a better photo for you. Basically I welded a shackle mount to the bottom of the frame and welded it in the rear to my bumper for torsional rigidity. This allowed me to move the axle to the rear but it cleanly clears the gas tank in it's stock arrangement.

http://www.mountainhead.org/albums/Jeep-Build/Jeep_Build_004.jpg

I will try to snap a shot of the axle pumpkin/ gas tank clearance for you later.

Here is some good info for anyone who streches their YJ. I moved my front axle forward to lengthen my wheelbase. I am running crossover high-steering. I installed my stock pitman arm and noticed my Drag link end contacts the Tie-Rod during deep flex. Advanced adapters now makes a bracket (i just got one) for $109 (kinda pricey, wish I had just fabbed it myself) to relocate the steering gear (saginaw box) 2 inches forward. This helps a LOT with the clearance issues on High steer YJ's. I will see if I can snap a picture later when I get home from work.

hey man nice buid ur write up has given me some ideas.i noticed ur from grass valley im from loomis so im right down the hill from u if u need some help whit ur rig id be more than happy 2 come up and help out.