My garage may be cramped, but I'm going to get shit done.

Day one.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/03-15-07_2141.jpg

Watching.

Waiting.....ever so patiently :D

Push the damn thing outside and get a carport.... then you can fully utilize your garage.:grinpimp:

That's what I have been doing for years... besides, mine wont fit through the garage door anymore.:flipoff2:

I really wouldn't mind doing this outside, but I have a cranky neighbor across the street. You know, the kind who is retired and has nothing better to do than to stir up trouble. He stood in his driveway and watched me move the scout into the garage, and the trailer back into the driveway.


I was going to run a 4.3, but fuck it, I like the sound of a v-8. Besides, if there is the possibility of moving up to a small block, why not do it the first time?

Hopefully this won't take forever.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0410.jpg

Dash and wiring is out, too.

Push the damn thing outside and get a carport.... then you can fully utilize your garage.:grinpimp:

That's what I have been doing for years... besides, mine wont fit through the garage door anymore.:flipoff2:

I'm renting a 1400sq ft shop.....for $300 a month :flipoff2:

Fully insulated :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

I tried to rent some space in the old IH plant. There was 50 amp service, 220, and a gantry crane I could have used. I think it was 310 or something like that. They turned me down. :(

Days two and three
I got the motor out and the frame cleaned up, then I yanked the dash and all the wiring. I want to build a new dash and rewire the whole thing.

The guy who gives me guitar lessons is in a band, so I went to see them play Saturday night. There are some videos of them on youtube, but the vids suck compared to the live show. link (http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=auburnIN)

Towed it to a carwash and hosed it out. Cleaned the garage, moved stuff around.

Got my wire harness.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/03-18-07_1513.jpg

Took it easy in the afternoon, looking for TPI stuff on the web.

:eek:! Wiring! YUCK!

When I tbi'd my SII it wasn't bad, I had an AFI harness and everything was labeled. That mess pictured above is from an '87 Firebird. It looks like I have an engine harness, a front end harness (headlights, turn signals, etc) and maybe a dash harness. I'll probably use some of the front end harness since I yanked all the stock wiring.

Found chevythunder.com, seems pretty good so far for info on the motor.

I may have some issues with the intake plumbing, since this is set up originally with MAF, and I guess it is tuned to the intake hose.

If you can work with that, more power to ya. I always spend that $$ and get everything fresh and clean.

Finally got my motor to the house.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/04-08-07_1946.jpg

Good thing there are anchor points built in.

The next couple days I'm going to make a bit more room in the garage, get a new jack for the hoist, and get the trans out of storage so I can bolt everything together and mock it up this weekend.

I'm happy to be back working on it.

Couldn't wait.


Just the motor.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/04-09-07_2053.jpg

It can sit a lot lower, 4 or 5 inches, but I have to cut the front body mount out. I have been thinking of cutting out the inner fenders and adding some tube to hang the sheet metal and radiator from. It needs tube anyway, the frame flexes enough to let the doors flop open.

I'm also thinking about headers, I'm going to need some xtra room on the sides and I don't want to cut the firewall if I don't have to.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/04-09-07_2054.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/04-09-07_2055.jpg

you got more room in there than I do in mine, but I have a Traveler stuffed in there at the moment.

I had to cut the fire wall in my 800 to get the 350 to fit but not by much. Looks good nice motor choice btw......

Did you center the motor and trans in the frame? I could do it without cutting if I offset everything to the passenger side, but I don't want to do that.

Avoid headers if you can.
I can give you a P/N for a cross over pipe we use on FJ40's if you want.

keep up the good work....

john

Nice fit!

I think headers will stick out too far, even shorties, so I am going to get some rams horn manifolds.

Did you center the motor and trans in the frame? I could do it without cutting if I offset everything to the passenger side, but I don't want to do that.

Mine is center with the frame down 4'' and back 2'' from the 304 IH. I have pix somewhere that I'll dig up if you want.........

I think headers will stick out too far, even shorties, so I am going to get some rams horn manifolds.


IDK about your scout but, I fit headers no problem just watch where you place the O2. Mine hit the frame and had to be redone....lol

A header would fit on the passenger side, but being an 80, the tunnel is offset about 6 inches to the passenger side.

I cut out the front body mount and set the motor down where the balancer bolt is about even to the top of the crossmember. the transmission is higher than I thought, I had to take out the rest of the tunnel cover.

I drafted up some brackets for a crossmmber and am going to have them laser cut.

I'm waiting on a shifter and cable so I can draft shift linkage for the trans.

42087 Walker Exhaust PN for a clean 2 into 1 SBC crossover pipe.

Passenger drop front axle required.

Keeping my eyes on your build.......slacker

Well, after moping around over not having parts, I decided to work on something. that something happened to be the in-tank pump. I have read of people using the e2000 pump from a 88 Ford truck, but it is a more expensive pump than the stock one. So, I thought I'd look into doing an in-tank pump. I didn't see much on Pirate, so I am pretty much on my own.


What I did...


I went to Barto's. It's a circle track shop on Creighton, about two blocks west of cop central. I picked up two -6 AN bulkheads, nuts and nylon washers for about $22. After riding about 30 miles back and forth between Barto's and Napa trying to find the right fittings, I decided to go to the hydraulic shop on west main. I forget the name of the joint but it is about a block or two west of O'Sullivan's. They set me up with some seamless tube and the right fittings to put a hard line to the AN bulkhead. That was around $5, but I later went back to have something flared because my flare tool wouldn't work on the harder seamless.

The pump and tubing assembled.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0755.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0761.jpg



I talked to Topper and Macgyvr about spare tires. I was wanting to set up the Scout to carry one, but they sorta convinced me it's not needed for wheeling the local spots. So, instead of turning the tank sideways and standing the tire up next to it, I sunk the fuel cell through the floor. I wanted to do that anyway, but turning the cell sideways wouldn't have let me. Anyway, out came the sawzall for the sheet metal, and the welder for the cross member. Afterward, I ended up taking all the floor out up to the bulkhead. It was rusted through and ready to fall off anyway.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0758.jpg

The square thing at the bottom of the pic is a frame I built to hold the fuel cell, there will be some supports and some "floor" to it later.



Here is the cell sunk down to the bottom of the frame, about 5 inches. I'm not going to make it permanent until I get the rear axle in and can see how much clearance I have.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0762.jpg

And again with the "spare" in. It will probably take two people to wrestle it out should I need it. It shouldn't move where it is, but a ratchet strap over it wouldn't be hard at all.

Another view.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0765.jpg

It's a halftop!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0764.jpg

The pump and tubing assembled.


Is that a return line clamped to the pump?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/IMG_0764.jpg

Looks like you need your spare tire already.. :D

.
Dont forget to get a remote filler tube before you mount in that spare.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/IMG_0765.jpg

Yes, that is the return lin clamped to the pump, and the pmup hangs on it. I'm not going to use that pump, I'll buy a new one.

As for the remote filler, I don't plan to carry a spare with me at all times. With the places around here, it wouldn't be more than 10 or 20 minutes to send someone back to camp for it.

Now that I have some parts I can get back to work. I drew up a crossmember I took it to a local shop to have parts cut. It's been at least a month and a half and the parts still aren't ready. I'm not going to name the shop since he is a vendor here and we all know how those threads get out of hand, plus, these are one-off parts.

Since I don't have a brake press, and I don't know anyone that does, I had to bend these myself. 3/16 isn't going to bend well in a vise, so I had to do something different. I have no torch, either, so that is out. Here is the solution:

One of each part:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/06-01-07_1716.jpg

I marked a line where the bend was going to be and used my angle grinder to cut 2/3rds through and bend away from the cut.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/06-01-07_1717.jpg

Then I clamped a piece of angle in each "bend" so it would not move when I welded it. I just filled in the gap that was cut out, and walla, it's bent!

The finished pieces

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/06-01-07_1818.jpg

On the left is how they go together, two pieces weld to the frame, one on each side, two more pieces weld to the ends of the tube, and the last welds to the center and the trans mount bolts to it.


Now that I have those I can get the motor in and some wiring and fuel lines. I'll be sure to post some more this weekend. One question, do you think .120 hrew would hold up an auto and 241 fine? It's 1-/34

I killed a sawsall doing this... it was a slow painful death with sparks and crap shooting out of the side. :acclaim:

First I took out the seat and cut out the storage box that was under it. It was useless since there was no way to get anything in or out of it. Then I used my hoist to lift up the tcase so I could see how much I needed to cut. Turns out I had to cut a lot more than I thought.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0880.jpg

From the other side, you can see how much I cut out better.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0881.jpg


Turns out the crossmember won't be in the way after all, but I am not done cutting the body for the front driveshaft. The rear shaft is going to be short.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_0883.jpg

A month and a half has gone by...

Most of it has been spent screwing off, going back and forth between deciding on the 7165 ecm (MAF) and the 7747 ecm (TBI, SD) and going through the wiring I have. Finally I decided on the 7747, partly because I can do EBL in the future, and partly because I didn't get the ($200) MAF sensor with the motor. I went pin by pin and removed the unused wires and moved some others. When I thought I was done I plugged everything in and started on the truck wiring. Going on advice from others wired through relays and run the grounds through switches. If a wire shorts going through the firewall whatever it is controlling will just turn on rather than start a fire. Another thing I did was run the distributor power through the oil pressure switch (comes on at 5 psi) Should I lose oil pressure it'll kill the motor before I run it dry.

I did have to take the conduit off a couple more times to chase wires, pull unneeded stuff and add a few. Not quite done yet, going to chase the torque converter lockup wire and maybe put it on manual control.

About 1 am, with no MAP sensor, open exhaust manifolds, the TPS wired backwards (TPI and TBI are backwards from each other) and some 12 ga wire in place of the #2 plug wire (WTF happened to that wire???) I had ignition. It took a visit from the ether bunny, but it went.

Before I run it again I need to hook up the alternator so I don't kill the battery again. I do need to time it, it was hard to start and hard to rev. Had flames from the exhaust. Checked timing and it was retarded so I advanced it a tooth, but the battery was too low to start it again.



That's it for this update.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_1140.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_1137.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/IMG_1139.jpg

I need a radiator, and some anti-fat pills.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEknn2-A9pQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fNfa0DvL8I

With a cheesy tach on it it runs about 1600 rpm. It might idle itself down some, but I don't want to run it much without a radiator.

sounds nasty:smokin:

An update finally

Went from this

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/10760.jpg

to this

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout008.jpg

After deciding that I didn't want my relays under the hood to get wet and dirty, not to mention the rat's nest of wires there. Now it's all behind the dash.

Did I say new dash? Here it is, not quite finished.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/stuff009.jpg


Part of moving the relays inside and wiring in the new dash is that everything had to get disconnected. So with a roll of tape and a pen in hand everything came off and labeled. I fed the wires in through a hole in the firewall and used the old grommet so nothing gets chafed. I also deleted several relays and rewired the distributor so it has power as soon as the key is on, rather than waiting for oil pressure to build before it comes on.

Of course, whenever you take someting apart like that you have to test it when you put it back together. I pulled the battery out of the Jeep and stuck it in the Scout, then turned the key on. The clock came on, but I didn't hear the fuel pump. Think, look, oh yeah, the ECM isn't plugged in. Still no fuel pump. No fuses. Ok, put fuses in. Still nothing. Check relay wiring, yes power, ground relay, pump runs, think some more.

In the GM system, the ECM provides a ground for the SES (check engine) light and the injectors, so that's how I wired the fuel pump relay, but it's actuall the opposite. It provides power to energize the relay. Once I provided a a ground it came on. Naturally I had to turn the key a little more just to make sure the starter worked. Starter works. In fact, it was running before I realized or expected it. I shut it down right away because I had a manifold off on one side and didn't want to warp any valves. It did seem quiet for not having a manifold on one side.


Notice anything wrong?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout009.jpg

Yep, 4 injectors and 4 spark plugs unplugged. It started on 4 cylinders. :doh:


That's about it for right now, I'm trying to do the things that don't require much money if any at all right now, but that's a short list.

Progress is slooowww but there is some.

My one ton axle is an Eaton. It looks like a 9" on steroids, but has a removable rear cover. It's the same as Macgyvr's rear axle. Supposedly just as strong as a 14b but lighter. Only thing is the one I bought has 4.10s and I want better. Next step is 5.13. :tu2: I had the third sitting on the floor of the storage locker for awhile, uncovered, so there is some dirt in it. Parts for these are hard to find an expensive when you do, so it is worth my time to tear it down and give it a proper cleaning. I posted this in another thread, but here it is again. I should take another picture with a pop can in it for reference, the thing is beefy.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/saturday006.jpg


I don't know how much weight I lost with the drums and backing plates, but it was probably 20 or 30 pounds. I couldn't get the adjusters to back off, so I pounded on the drum from the back until I could get a couple prybars in there and wedge it off. Then there was a dust shield that came off with a few hammer taps and 4 bolts holding the backing plates on. Knock the studs out of the hubs and the drums come off.

When I slid it back in the garage I put it behind the Scout and noticed how wide it is. This pic makes it lookl wider than it is because it wasn't right up against the Scout.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/saturday007.jpg

Here's a couple shots from right behind the wheels. Not quite centered, but you get the idea.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/saturday008.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/saturday009.jpg



If I can get the 3rd cleaned, reassembled, and installed I'll start on the housing, cutting off the one link brackets and track bar mount. If not I'll be measuring for new leaf springs.

Okaaayyyy...

I'll have pics up soon but this past week I have cut the mounts off the axle, pulled the d44 and springs, cut off the spring mounts from the frame, and moved the ecm once I realized that I had it right where I needed to run some tube. I also picked up a new 241 with the SYE and stabbed that in place. The only thing is that after I did I realized that the input was too big, so I had to yank it and pull it and the old one apart and swap inputs. :doh: I don't know how much those fuckers weigh but it was too much for one person to push it up there and get the bolts in, so I had to get creative with the ratchet straps.

Now I need springs and bushings so I can make mounts and get that axle hung.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout016.jpg

I was thinking about replacing the front springs and hangars for the new axle, but then thought I might just use what's already there. But, the d60 spring pad width is a half inch wider than the 44 that's in there now. I probably could have made it work, but I didn't want to bind the springs. So, goodbye d44!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout022.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout023.jpg


I considered my options on cutting off the spring mounts, and the best thing seemed to be taking the bumper off. This let me get the grinder in there and also let me mount the bumper better.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout024.jpg


If you look carefully you'll see that the end of the frame isn't square and has bolt holes in it. I couldn't weld it very well the first time, so I had an opportunity to fix it. The solution was to plate the sides of the frame so I could have a solid smooth edge to weld.

The back of the bumper was smoothed out, rust ground off the end of the frame, and everything was clamped and centered in place.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout025.jpg

My welding on the top is very nice, but vertical and overhead need practice. When I am rolling I'll take it to a friend's and re weld it with a mig.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout029.jpg



Lastly, since I have no money and nothing else to do under the Scout, I lowered it. Mostly I wanted the jackstands in a better place than under the seats.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout031.jpg



At least this way when I get back to the dash and wiring it'll be easier to get in and out.

Glad to see you got the garage all cleaned up :D

Lookin good.

You know you can run the 165 speed density right? IIRC 90-92 TPI used speed density, and 87-90 used maf.

You'd need a chip burner though, and the 165 requires you to get an adapter for it to fit in your chip burner, and if you use an EEPROM you will have to desolder the old chip from the memcal to swap, or use a different adapter. It's doable, but a bit of a pain.

Went from this.......to this

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout008.jpg


Much better.....

Do you ever hit the junkyard?

If so, next time there, look through the engine compartments of 1980s & 1990s of Saabs.....

They have two fuse boxes, one large & one small.
The small one is actually a dual relay box...
As well as 4 fuses (3 wired, 1 empty on the one I got).

And it's H20 tight (if you RTV) the wires on the bottom.).

Just snapped some pix of mine:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/IMG_1921.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/IMG_1922.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/IMG_1923.jpg

Ambulances are good for wiring stuff too.....:grinpimp:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Misc%20Pix/IMG_0564.jpg

Glad to see you got the garage all cleaned up :D

Lookin good.

You know you can run the 165 speed density right? IIRC 90-92 TPI used speed density, and 87-90 used maf.

You'd need a chip burner though, and the 165 requires you to get an adapter for it to fit in your chip burner, and if you use an EEPROM you will have to desolder the old chip from the memcal to swap, or use a different adapter. It's doable, but a bit of a pain.Yeah, I decided on the 7747 since I already had it and there is a lot of support for it, and I can go with EBL once I have the money.

Much better.....

Do you ever hit the junkyard?

If so, next time there, look through the engine compartments of 1980s & 1990s of Saabs.....

They have two fuse boxes, one large & one small.
The small one is actually a dual relay box...
As well as 4 fuses (3 wired, 1 empty on the one I got).

And it's H20 tight (if you RTV) the wires on the bottom.).
Thanks. I don't think there are any Saabs in the local junkyards, much less an ambulance, but I will keep an eye out anyway. I wanted to use a factory fuse box but everything I saw was some odd shape and looked to be hard to mount. But now that I think about it, a Grand Cherokee fuse box would be a good donor. It's rectangular, flat bottom, weatherproof (I guess) lid and easier to find than a Saab.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout037.jpg

Four months :shaking:


Well shit is on the up and up again, and again I have started collecting parts.


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/crap150.jpg

2 rotors
2 brake brackets from GLO
2 calipers
2 sets brake pads
not quite 16 studs and lug nuts
not quite 4 caliper pins
one of 4 johnny joints, the other 4 are backordered
7075 links are coming from Branik

So, I still need a few studs, lug nuts, caliper pins, miscellaneous grade 8 hardware, and I should have my rear axle ready to go in. The rest of my link ends should be here on the 20th, so I need to get my garage cleaned out before then so I can start getting my axle in place.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout009.jpg




looks like you have an old school GM HEI dizzy??? :confused:

Yeah, it's a large cap HEI but that's what they used on it.

You're going to use the 7747 to fire all 8 injectors then tune it? Just get the EBL to start with...

You're going to use the 7747 to fire all 8 injectors then tune it? Just get the EBL to start with...

I probably will now that I can afford it.


More parts collecting.

Between the almost $22/hr from work and the almost 4k I got when some girl rear ended me hard enough to total the ZJ but not so hard that I couldn't drive it I have been collecting parts. Discs and a Detroit for the rear axle, gears, Detroit, and kingpin rebuild for the front axle, 7075 links with johnny joints, and some steel for a truss. I still need 14b shafts so I can use the Detroit in the rear, but I can do that later I suppose.

during this last week I bought a pos go kart and have been working on it as there is plenty to do without needing as much space in the garage, plus it won't cost as much. You can read about that here. http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2473

Now I'm waiting on kart parts so I'm going to work on the Scout meanwhile. Should have some pictures up tonight.

The FAQ is gone, WTF??


Changed my under dash wiring again once I realized that my ecm was in the way of future tube, also found some nice fuse blocks rather than the modified ZJ underhood box. Bought some autometer gages to fill the holes, and tested the dash with a battery. Just about done.

I had built the crossmember for the lower links and made tabs for the rear axle, but got stuck on the uppers and everything in the front. Soooo, I made a deal with a friend and that deal was that I would do the wiring on his CJ and he would do (or help) with the suspension on mine. We got his engine wiring done 2 weeks ago, so my rig went to his house. We decided on a 3 link with the 3rd link outside the frame on the passenger side. After the brackets were made and tacked in, we came the conclusion that if we push the front axle out 6 inches it would make it easier to put in a track bar. *sigh* Doing that means cutting new holes in the frame, cutting out the front crossmember, blah blah.

I have a list of crap to take over with me, including a camera. Here's a couple pics of where I am right now.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture310.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture312.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture313.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture311.jpg

The FAQ is gone, WTF??




NO Shit WTF?????

Even though you have given me shit in the past. Your scout is lookin good:beer:

Even though you have given me shit in the past. Your scout is lookin good:beer:

I did? Thanks anyway.


I don't know if I mentioned it already, but it was realized that a double triangulated front would be not so easy to do while keeping the rig low. As a result, we went with a 3 link, and after more discussion, we extended the front axle out 6 inches. This gets us more room for the panhard and keeps the 3rd link out of the passenger side footwell. I am going to have to modify the motor mount on that side. Packaging will be tight between the motor mount, exhaust, starter, and link. While not nearly done it is at least rolling.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture393.jpg

I had to cut my bumper down, so I used some tube to make a nice rounded corner. Needs finished, but you get the idea.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture397.jpg

Crap engineering at it's finest. Actually some quick and dirty links to be able to roll it in and out of the shop.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture401.jpg

Been thinking I should gusset the tabs on the frame end. What do you think?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture395.jpg

I think you need gussets!

What rim's you running, IIRC stock H1's? It looks like the tires will be rubbing on the LCA's.

I want recentered H1's. I've looked and measured and compared and am pretty sue that they will fit with out rubbing.

I see a lot of porosity in your welds :eek: got a kink in your hose?

Yes, gussets.

Those 2x2 square springs look a little stiff :laughing:

It's good to see you making progress on ye olde rust bucket.

Some of it, like the motor mounts to the frame and the bumper to the frame, was stick welded. The motor mounts will be reworked and mig welded, and the bumper will be re welded.

I am at the mercy of the garage owner, and I work every other weekend. Fortunately, we have an agreement that neither one of us hits the trail without the other. That means that eventually my rig will get done. :D

I spent half the day setting gears in my front axle. I used my old shim stacks as a starting point, and they ended up almost just right. I had to add to the pinion preload, and pinion depth, but it came out with a great pattern and .008 backlash.

I've got those factory drive slugs, and I think I'm missing parts. Does anyone have or know of a 'sploded view somewhere? Hven't found much on PBB other than the $$$ bling ones.


Since it gets to sit outside, and has been raining more lately, I put the top and windshield on, and laid the hood in place. Just seeing it like this makes me extra motivated to work on it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/0923090041a.jpg

Didn't see it on a quick scan of the rest of the thread. Were did the motor mounts come from? They look pretty nice.

How much $$

Gitsum Urban wheeler :grinpimp:

Didn't realize how much you pushed the front forward until you hung the fenders and slapped the 37's on. Looks like you'll need to do a bit of trimming on the front to clear.

Didn't see it on a quick scan of the rest of the thread. Were did the motor mounts come from? They look pretty nice.

How much $$Those are Novak adapters for a Jeep. I don't remember if they were for a wide frame or a narrow frame, and I couldn't find frame width dimensions for Jeep, so I emailed them and they told me what I should use. They were about $100.

Gitsum Urban wheeler :grinpimp:

Didn't realize how much you pushed the front forward until you hung the fenders and slapped the 37's on. Looks like you'll need to do a bit of trimming on the front to clear.

It's only 6 inches :D I stuck a fender on because I wanted to see how it was going to look, and to see about how much I have to trim. I think I am going to trim up to just below the headlights, where that crease/bend is.

We (Tuffjarhed here and I) have been discussing steering options, and are leaning toward a CJ box and hydro assist. Part of the reason for stretching the front out was to make room for the steering and links so I don't ram everything into the balancer on the motor.

Most of you have seen this in the weekend updates, but I wanted to keep this updated, in case anyone reads it. :laughing:

The old motor mounts.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/Picture393.jpg

New motor mounts. I'm planning 4 inches compression, this is a pic at 5 inches. I'm planning gussets in there.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/1020091757.jpg

This is how she sits now. I'm still waiting on parts.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/0923090041a.jpg


I probably won't update this for awhile, I'm waiting on my struts and saving for full hydro. I'm looking at a PSC system with a double ended cylinder.

Are you planning on installing a x-member/cradle directly under the motor mounts?

I didn't on mine and it bugged me a little.:(

Are you planning on installing a x-member/cradle directly under the motor mounts?

I didn't on mine and it bugged me a little.:(

I considered it.

I did see a Sami with a 4.3 in it that had a factory (?) engine plate motor mount. I wish I knew what it came out of.

I attempted to use a stock Blazer(where I pilfered the engine mounts) x-member but it would have taken more work to go that route than it would have to just fab up a new one.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/prospectorc4/MM.jpg

To this day I think my frame rails are going to spread apart, blow the mounts, and:nuke: