I know you can use the lincoln Mark V rear discs and brakets and such.... Well i got one of the rear axles and i'm having a hell of a time trying to beat the pressed on bearing off.... now i've read that you can beat it off ..... if that's not possible let me know or if you have any tricks to doing so please let me know

then my other question is for those of you running this set up what do you do if you break a rear axle shaft.... if you have to have that bearing pressed on and off then you have to have your spare with a caliper braket on it also.


Now I did a search and i didn't find anything that answered this if i'm missing something PLEASE clue me in....

You didn’t mention if you removed the bearing retainer or not, usually when that’s off you can beat the bearing free, I usually stack some bricks or 2x4ss and use two pcs. of 1x2 rect. steel tube under the bearing on top of the 2x4ss and beat on the spline end of the axle until it's off, and to break the retainer drill it and hit the hole with a cold chisel to break it all the way across that usually frees the retainer.
One of the benefits of a full width 9" is the axles are the same length = only having to carry one spare with a bracket/bearing pressed on. Good luck.

Originally posted by dangerranger33

spare with a caliper braket on it also.


Lost me there....Never seen the Mark setup but the TSM kit I used the brkt bolted to the back side of the axle flange so I don't see how or why the brkt would need to be on there. Is it to the inside of the axle bearing?

As far as the shaft out use your wheel as a slide hammer of sort and loosen the lugs and slide hammer it. Make sense?

tonto..... NO i have not got the bearing retainer off yet... So i should buy one of those to replace the one i'm going to drill of and should i have it pressed on buy a machine shop?

Racin hound... ON the Mark V Disc Set up the braket for the disc bolts to the outside of the housing but between the axle flange and the pressed on bearing make it a Pain to do a trail swap.... unless you have a spare braket.... i've seen the TSM kit but i was thinking this would be cheaper... only paid $100 for the axle.... then i'll pay $80 for new rotor... calipers are in good shape that's with ebrake cables and all... I thought that was cheaper than else where......

Hey dude, I took a cut off grinder and zizzed that collar almost all the way through. Give her a whack with a chisel and that should split it. The bearing is snug, but it's not impossible to get off without a press. One time I had one of the bearings seized on the shaft, so I did the same thing, cut the cage off and cut the race almost all the way, and let fly with the hammer and chisel. You will most certainly need a press to get the new stuff back together,I did do it without once by putting the axle outside in the snow, and put the bearings by the heater for a while. This expanded the ring and the bearings and made the axle do the same as that favorite part of your anatomy when it gets cold.

almost forgot, I always wondered if you could notch those Mark brackets to slide over the axle without having to press off the bearing every time. The bearing retainers sold by aftermarket all have a notch in them to avoid this whole ordeal. The only thing that comes to mind is the position of the caliper and the bolt bosses in that godzilla of a bracket. They may be in the way

Dude:rolleyes:
Get the fawkin retainer plate off first. I don't understand what Tonto is telling you to drill???? There are four bolts take them out then pop it with a chisel and it should come loose. There should be a single hole in the axle flange that will allow you to manuver a socket in there get one out then spin it and get the next etc. As for the Mark axle isn't that 5 on 5? Gonna carry 2 spares or redrill? I guess I still don't follow on the caliper brkt.........Is it enclosed around the circumference of the axle in between the bearing and axle flange?

Racinhound... Yes the caliper braket is between the axle flange and the pressed on bearring..... Tonto is refering to the bearing retainer he says to drill it in two then it should pop off allowing the bearing to come of easier....

Instead of the typical retaner plate found on all drum braked 9" the disc braked ones have the caliper braket their instaed.. it doubles as the retainer plate....

I'm not gonna use mark V axle... they are 28 spline.. .i'm runnin 31 spline... but the mark V is a big bearing axle


i'm tending to agree with mikeovegas to cut or notch the Caliper braket up and not have to have bearing pressed on or off each time i want to change axle shafts.... The problem with that Is that the axle shaft diameter is appox 2" out towards the flange of the axle and the distance between bolt holes on the caliper braket is 2" so you will have to loose one bolt hole...

My mistake, what I meant is the bearing retaining collar on the inside side of the bearing that locks the bearing on the shaft, I don't think even if you could get that off to re-use you should, doesn't it stretch out a little when it's pressed on? Also I've never tried to remove the bearing so I could use it again, I guess it's possible, I always counted on trashing the bearing so I'm just prepared to replace it.
I've heard like mikeovegas suggested that you can notch and make the outside bracket/retainer removable, never seen it done though. Good Luck Bro.

You don't need a press to install the bearings either. a)slide the bearing down the axle shaft b)then slide a pipe over the axle c) 'massage' bearing into place with a BFH. Heating the bearing does help a lil, but carefull it doesn't split. Hot bearing + cold axle = rapid cooling. I've had a race crack cause of this before, I think the bearing was i lil TOO warm. not good considering that bearing is the only thing keeping your axle in.
And are the calipers brackets the same (left side/right side)??

nope, caliper brkts are left and rt

If you plan on reusing the bearing and collar, stop reading my post now. If you are getting a new bearing, here is how I always replaced them. Hit collar with chisle flat across it, it will fly off. Now come the part with a little skill. Get the blue wrench, and cut the brearing off. One cut across it will do it. NOTE I am not responsible if you listen to my dumb ass, and you fawk up your axle. Then slide the new bearing on and get the fore mentioned pipe methed. A new collar comes with the brearing. I you use the torch, it is just like torching a nut off a bolt, without hitting the threads. Turn your O2 down lower then normal.

I've pretty much decided i'm going to modify the brackets and place them on the out side of the retainer plate... I've got one side pretty much done... but I have ONE bigg problem... rotors... the axle flange on a 9" is 7 inches and I gotta find a rotor that will fit over that axle flange.... any suggestions.... the D44 ones won't the are 6 1/2" on the inside... I was thinking about grinding the flange down to make it fit... but i'd rather not...

i'll get a pic of my modifed caliper braket vs the stock one up b4 too long... if anyone is interested

I don't know if you know this, usually you use the Lincoln Mark V rotors, have a machine shop change the bolt pattern to 5 on 5 1/2" and turn the inside of the rotor to open it up a little and turn down the flange on the axle shaft a little also.
I found Currie yeah I know Currie, sold used rotors drilled for $90.00 a set for this set up. Good Luck.

Yes I knew that was an option but if get the front D44 rotors they only have to be machined out 1/2 total 1/4 all around..... and don't have to be redrilled... this would be a better alternative... i'm currently wondering if CJ7 rotors will fit over the flange because BCbronco's uses those rotors for their conversion and I didn't see any note of the flange needing to be ground down.... but we shall see.. (no auto parts store around here stocks them so i'll have to check a junk yard)