There have been many varied threads about the FAL but I haven't seen a single start to finish thread like the infamous AK thread.
Some of the info here will be repetative of that thread but I plan on keeping it FAL specific.


If I am wrong about there not being an FAL build thread let me know and I will can this.

I will be adding photos to this thread over the next couple days, be this weekend before I can actually get to the disassembly.

Right after the end of WWII the Belgian firearms manufacturer Fabrique Nationale de Herstal (FN), began construction of a box magazine fed, gas operated, semi-automatic/fully-automatic, shoulder fired rifle, the Fusil Automatique Leger (Light Automatic Rifle) or FN-FAL. Original design was in 7.92mm Kurz but later changed to 7.62x51mm (7.62 NATO).
The rifle has several different names (FAL, L1A1, L2A1, R1, and G1) manufactured using two different patterns (inch and metric) by more the a half dozen different countries including United Kingdom, South Africa, Brazil, Australia, Canada, Israel, Austria and Argentina. India manufactured FALs without license from FN. Mexico assembled FN-made components into complete rifles. Add to this standard barrel, heavy barrel, carbine, and paratrooper models of the rifle and you end up with a couple dozen different FALs.
So the collector/enthusiast has many different rifles from which to choose. Unfortunately thanks in part to the 1986 IRS Tax Law (that’s right our friends in congress hide stuff in other laws) and changes to US Title 18 in the 90s and BATF re-interpretation of the law as recently as 2005 we can no longer import complete FALs. For about 14(?) years it has been illegal to import receivers, and since Dec 2005 barrels. Here we come to the home builder, the DIYer and the purpose of this little write up. You can still find FAL parts kits that have every thing except the receiver, and there are companies in the US that are making receiver, as well as barrels. With some simple hand tools the home craftsman can easily assemble a rifle in a couple hours time.

List of some of the current kit suppliers:

Currently the metric pattern, Imbel built, FAL is the most common kit on the market. Prices range from 130$ barrelless kits up to 500$ depending on condition.
You can find these from a bunch of different licensed importers and dealers in the US.
You can ask here or over at falfile.com about the reputation of various importers. Some of the companies that sell rifle kits include...

CenterFireSystems.com
Entreprise.com
Interordnance.com
Copesdist.com

Inter Ordnance is currently advertising inch pattern L1A1 kits.

You can also find individuals selling kits at places like gunbroker.com, falfiles.com and various weapon related boards. Do some google searching.

After getting the kit you will need a receiver as well as your compliane parts (see next post)
Currently there are three US manufacturers of receivers, DSA, Entreprise, and DCI.
dsarms.com, entreprise.com, and nodakspud.com.
DSA is by far the best quality and they are also the most readily available. There have been problems with the Entreprise receivers in the past (like ten years ago) but some of the negativism about the firm remain. Only time will tell if their current production is up to snuff. There has been nothing but praise about the current DCI (Dan Coonan Indistries) receivers quality, but there is a huge waiting list (1000+ people) for a very limited production capability.

If you need a barrel you have DSA as well as various other sources such as Brownells, Sarco, and Numrich. All four of these companies are also good source for other parts you may want/need.

List of US made parts from GunPlumber on FalFiles.
* Receiver (DSA, DCI)
* Barrel (DSA)
* Muzzle attachment (ARS, DSA, TAPCO, FSE)
* Bolt carrier (TAPCO - Israeli, DSA - paratrooper)
* Cocking handle (SM, DSA, TAPCO, FSE)
* Gas piston (FSE, DSA, TAPCO, DCI/NODAK)
* Lower receiver (DSA)
* Trigger (FSE, DSA, CAI - inch pattern)
* Hammer (FSE, DSA, CAI - inch pattern)
* Sear (FSE, DSA, CAI - Inch pattern)
* Buttstock (PSAW)
* Pistol grip (DSA, FSE, IAI, TAPCO, FALCON - inch pattern))
* Handguard (DSA, TAPCO, PSAW)
* Magazine body (DSA - 10 round)
* Magazine follower (FALCON)
* Magazine floorplate (FALCON)

Here is a blowup for the L1A1 inch model
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/faldiagram.jpg

922r and what it means to the DIYer

Lets just get it right out of the way from the get go if an individual is legally allowed to own a firearm they may construct the same for their own personal use. No you may not build yourself a fully automatic weapon. Yes you may build a short barrelled rifle (SBR) or shotgun or a suppressor, providing you have PREPAID, APPLIED FOR and RECEIVED your tax stamp.

US Code 18 Section 922 "Unlawfull Acts", paragraph (r) affects the building of an imported assualt weapon....
"(r) It shall be unlawful for any person to assemble from imported
parts any semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun which is identical to
any rifle or shotgun prohibited from importation under section
925(d)(3) of this chapter"

925(d)(3) states

"is of a type that does not fall within the definition of a
firearm as defined in section 5845(a) of the Internal Revenue
Code of 1986 and is generally recognized as particularly suitable
for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes, excluding surplus
military firearms, except in any case where the Attorney General
has not authorized the importation of the firearm pursuant to
this paragraph, it shall be unlawful to import any frame,
receiver, or barrel of such firearm which would be prohibited if
assembled; or"

Now we get to the definition of the assualt weapon and the 20 forbidden parts. The way it works is if the weapon is composed of 10 or less of these parts that are foriegn made then the weapon in question is not foriegn made. In other words if you have 11 or more of these on the weapon it is foriegn made and you have broken the law. The follwoing is reffered to as the 1989 Import Ban.
"
18 USC Chapter 44 as amended by Public Law 101-647 (enacted 11-29-90) and 27 CFR part 178 as amended 06-25-93. http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2001/aprqtr/27cfr178.39.htm
§ 178.39 Assembly of semiautomatic rifles or shotguns.
(a) No person shall assemble a semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun using more than 10 of the imported parts listed in paragraph (c) of this section if the assembled firearm is prohibited from importation under section 925(d)(3) as not being particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes.

925(d)(3) includes FN FAL (L1A1) style semiautomatic rifle with folding stock, military style stock with separate pistol grip, threaded muzzle, flash hider, grenade launcher, bayonet lug, or night sights. Note: FN FAL (L1A1) style semiautomatic rifles having a thumbhole style stock without the above features were approved for importation from 1989 to 1994. In 1994 BATFE changed their interpretation to eliminate the exemption for firearms with thumbhole stocks.

(c) For purposes of this section, the term "imported parts" are:"

1. Frame-Receiver
2. Barrel
3. Barrel Extension
4. Mounting Block/Trunnion
5. Muzzle Attchment
6. Bolt
7. Bolt Carrier
8. Operating Rod (charging handle)
9. Gas Piston
10. Trigger Housing
11. Trigger
12. Hammer
13. Sear
14. Disconnector
15. Buttstock
16. Pistol Grip
17. Forearm/Handguard
18. Magazine Body
19. Magazine Follower
20. Magazine Flloor Plate

So 17 of these apply to the FAL
Majority of us will be using a US made receiver
The trigger, hammer, sear (THS) is a common set of Compliance Parts.
Gas Piston and either use a US made Flash Suppressor or no supressor and one more part and we are down to ten "evil" parts and the rifle is legal.
Pelican makes an inexpensive furniture set (butt, pistol grip, and forearm).
Some people preffer to do the magazine route, replacing the floor plate and follower with US made parts. Just make sure that ALL of your magazines are compliant if you go this path.

If you have access to a lathe the gas piston and fire suppressor are easily home made bits.

So do some more googling/searching and determine which parts you want to get US made and which you will use from the kit. Some people are interested in a particular look for the rifle, Isreali hand guards for example, and need to keep in mind parts count.

For me personally I like the idea of getting only USA stamped magazines since they will be used universally across multiple kits, combined with receiver, gas piston (cheep bit from Tapco) and then the THS. That gets me well below the parts count and not counting the receiver, each kit only needs another 50$ in parts.

It needs to be mentioned that HR 1096, currently in congress seeks to repeal the "sporting use only" clause from some of these laws. in effect tossing out parts count, and the cutting up of foriegn receivers and barrels. Contact your reps to support this bill

Must have, should have, and nice to have tools to help disassemble and assemble the rifle.

With the exception of removing/installing the barrel, and the gas block/front sight base (FSB) you do not need much more then a couple different sized flat tip screw drivers, pin punches, brass punch, and a hammer.

Unless it's damaged (in which case you paid less for the kit) there isn't a ny need to remove the FSB from the barrel. But if for some reason you need to remove it the best tool for the job is a shop press.

For the barrel-receiver you will need a secure method of retaining one piece and then turning the other. I am sure many people get away with clamping the receiver in a vise and then use a wrench on the barrel flats, but you really should get/make the appropriate tools for this.
You can purchase these tools from various places, DSA, Brownells, and gunthings.com.
You can also make your own receiver wrench and barrel wrench or barrel vise.
From GunThings here are some simple plans for the receiver wrench and barrel vise.
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/falvise.gif

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/falwrench.gif

The vise is 2 pieces of lead filled U-channel with some stronger plate sandwhiching it all together.

Will add a diagram for an alternative to the barrel vise here. Basically a U shaped block of steel designed to engage the flats of the barrel. A bolt goes through the top of the U to tighten it around the barrel.

You will also need a set of pin guages and head space set. the pin gauges needed are sizes from 0.253 to 0.273 and available from GunThings for 30$. Brownells has Head Space Gauges, in either .308 or 7.62. They are 30$ each.

it can help to have a gas plug wrench, butstock tool, and an extractor removal tool.
Here are the gas wrench and butstock tool from Tapco

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/gas.jpg

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/buttstock.jpg

These are the same thing I plan on building.
DSA also make a nice version of these tools and looks like a better price.

The buttstock tool with the rod attached helps to install/remove the recoil spring and plug without launching bits across the garage. I don't know if the original item works this way, but the DSA version is threaded to work as a cleaning rod handle. My plan is to do the same.

I will be building a receiver wrench, barrel wrench, gas plug wrench, and the buttstock tool and posting howto and photos in this thread.
I don't know if I will also build a barrel vise or not. I do have a box of lead...1000 pieces of 250 grain .45 diameter "plugs" LOL and can melt them down.

How to dissasemble your new kit without damaging parts (of the weapon or yourself)

When you first get your kit it will probably look something like this.
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/kit.jpg

These come covered in a protective coating of grease and oil and the first step is to go through the poackage and make sure all of the parts are there and clean them off.
Most of these kits have the upper receiver (this is the serial numbered, controlled part on the FAL) cut off just behind the barrel. The bolt carrier, locking shoulder, charging handle, and mag release should have been removed from the receiver and included with the barrel section and lower section.

You will need a cleaning rod, jag tip, .30 caliber patches, tooth brush, rags, suitable weapon cleaning solution, and gun oil to clean everything. I use Hoppes and Mil-Tec for the cleaning and oiling respectively. If you are going to be assembling the rifle imediately you may skip the light coat of oil, but if the parts are going to be sitting around for even a short period of time I would go ahead and give a light coat of oil.

If you are not going to be refinishing the weapon after it's built you don't really need to completely disassemble every thing. I plan on parking at least one of these and duracoating at least one. Plus for this story it makes sense to do a complete tear down.

Upper reciever.
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/falmetbarrel.jpg

Begin by removing the hand guards(21). There is a machine screw that passes through the gasblock/front sight base(3) that holds the two halves of the handguards together.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/hg1.jpg

The nut is encased in the injection molded plastic and depending on the condition of the kit may or may not spin free when you try and remove the screw. The nut is not a a typical hex shaped nut, it's round.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/hg2.jpg

If there is any rust present squirt the thing liberally with PBBlast or Koril or another type of penetrating oil. My nut had two dimples in it that look like they match the sight adjuster tool would be used to hold the nut while turning the screw.
After removing the screw the handguards come right off.

Next remove the gas plug(12). There is a spring loaded detent that needs to be pressed and then rotate the plug 90*.
The plug is under spring pressure from the gas piston and spring so don't let things go flying.

After removing the plug, withdraw the piston(18) and spring(19) from the gas tube.

Next remove the gas regulator(13). On inch models this is retained by a wire snap ring on the gas tube side of the regulator. Remove the snap ring and the regulator slides off.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/gastube01.jpg

On metric models the regulator and gas block are threaded (per the diagram). Simply unscrew the regulator and slide it back onto the gas tube. The regulator wrench can help turn this.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/gastube2.jpg

The wrench also helps to remove the Gas Tube Nut(17) from the receiver. Unscrew the Nut from the receiver.

After removing the regulator you have access to a small pin(16) from the underside of the regulator. This pin prevents the gas tube from being removed.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/gastube3.jpg

After removing the pin, unscrew the gas tube(15). You can now remove the Regulator, Nut and Tube all together. The Carry Handle may now be removed from the receiver. Remove the Regulator Spring(14) from the Gas Block.

The Handle is retained to the metal loop by a small wire clip

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/carryhandle.jpg

Now you can remove the barrel(1) from from the receiver stub.

In order to remover the Gas Block(2) from the Barrel you must first remove the Flash Suppressor(4). The Flash Suppressor is LEFT hand threaded. This means it needs to be turned CLOCKWISE to loosen and remove.

I supported my barrel in a padded bench vise with the Suppressor end of the barrel pointing at the ground and gave the suppressor to barrel joint, gas block joint and the area where the barrel screws into the receiver a good shot of PB Blaster and let it sit over night.

Insert your Barrel into your barrel vise or barrel wrench. Secure the barrel vise/wrench into a bench vise or bolt/clamp down to a solid bench. It needs to be solidly mounted.

My Indian L1A1 Flash Suppressor is held in place by a cross pin that must be driven out. It then slides off and you can unscrew the bushing.

The Imbel Flash Suppressor has flats on the side of it. They are narrow so you will need to get a XXmm thin head open ended wrench. Or get a standard wrench and slowly grind down the head of the wrench wrench until it fits into the grooves. Go very slow, try not to heat up the wrench and change it's temper. After the Barrel is secured, use the wrench and turn the Suppressor CLOCKWISE. I ended up using a small handheld propane torch to apply some heat to the Suppressor and Later the Receiver stub before I could get them to break loose. Didn't heat them up enough to change color or anything, just enough to get the metal to expand a bit.

At the other end of the Barrel attach your receiver wrench to the remnants of the Receiver and unscrew. Receiver is standard thread, lefty-loosy.

Remove the Barrel from the barrel vise/wrench.

Remove the Sling Swivel Screw(7) and Swivel(6). You need to bend the ears a little bit on the Swivel Band(8) a little bit and then lift that off the barrel.

To remove the Gas Block drive out the Pin(3) and then mount the barrel chamber end down in a press. Support the Gas Block with a clam shell clamp. I would screw the Flash Suppressor back on hand tight. And then place a piece of oak or aluminum between the press ram and end of the Suppressor. Make sure you have a means to catch the barrel. With the Flash Suppressor still in place this wont be an issue. But I like to have a plain old card board box with a couple of old beach towels for padding placed underneath to catch the barrel. You don't want to damage the chamber or threads.
Give the ram of the press a few pumps and the Gas Block should start to come off. Until the Block gets past the swivel groove its tight, but after pressing it about an inch you can remove everything from the press and finsih disassembly by hand.

Well I do believe that it it. You should now have a completely disassemble upper receiver. Onto the lower.

more dis
Lower Receiver:
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/falmetlower.jpg

Butt Stock
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/falmetstock.jpg

Lets start the lower with the Fire Control Group.
I found it easiest to remove the Pistol Grip Nut(27) remove the Grip(26) and then the Trigger Guard(25).
You now have access to the Trigger Spring(14) and Spring Guide Rod(13). You can use some needle nose pliers to grasp the guide rod, push to the rear and remove the spring and rod. Place the Selector on fire and squeeze the Trigger. While maintaining pressure on the Trigger use the needle nose pliers to grab the Rod behind the retention plate that is part of the lower receiver. Release pressure from the Trigger and lift the Spring and Rod. This spring has a lot of pressure, be careful. Note that this spring has a lot to do with trigger pull weight. If the trigger pull is too light, get a new spring. If it's too tight, try removing one coil.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/trigger01.jpg

With the Hammer in the raised position push the hammer spring(21) and rod(22) and withdraw from the receiver(1).

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/trigger02.jpg

Turn the Selector Lever(9) counter clockwise past the safe position until the switch is pointing to the 12 o’clock position.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/trigger03.jpg

There is a tab on the Selector that must line up with a window at the 12 oclock position of the Receiver.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/trigger04.jpg

You will then be able to withdraw the Selector from the lower receiver(1).
After removing the Selector Lever you can lift up the Lock Plate(24) and withdraw it from the hammer pin. The plate needs to rotate until it's all the way forward.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/trigger05.jpg
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/trigger06.jpg

Remove the Hammer Pin(20) and the Hammer(19).
The Sear(15) is retained by the same Pin(18) as the Trigger(12) and is under spring pressure. Hold down on the Sear while withdrawing the Pin. Slowly release the pressure and remove the Sear and Sear Spring(17) and Sear Spring Guide(16). Then the Hammer.

Remove the screw that attaches the bottom of the Lower Receiver to the Butt Stock.

Remove the screw that holds the Butt Pad to the Butt Stock and remove the pad.
You now have access to the recoil tube screw. If you don’t have the butt stock tool, be careful unscrewing this screw (see the tool description later in this thread). It is under pressure and will go flying if you loose control. Remove the screw, Recoil Rod(29) and Recoil Spring(28) and the small Guide Rod. You can pull the Butt Stock off the Recoil Tube(2).

Remove the pin(8) that retains the Take Down Plunger Spring(4) and Spring Guide(5). Again be careful and don’t let the pieces go flying across the room.

Unscrew the Take Down Lever Screw(6) and remove it.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/takedown.jpg

You can now remove the Take Down Lever(7) and then slide the Plunger(3) out the rear.
Unscrew both Windage Screws(36). Use a brass punch, drive the Rear Sight(30) out of it’s dovetail. Remove the small spring(34) from the bottom of the sight.
Drive the Pin(35) from the top out of the sight base.
The Sight(31) can now be slid off the base.

Great thread. Comes just in time for me.

Yep, super info - perfect timing for me too. Thanks Aloha -

Obviously a work in progress. I will get all the photos for the disassembly and tools this weekend.

Unfortunately I wont be getting my receivers until May so clocking the barrel and setting the headspace photos wont be available until then. But I will complete the instructions this weekend.

Obviously a work in progress. I will get all the photos for the disassembly and tools this weekend.

Unfortunately I wont be getting my receivers until May so clocking the barrel and setting the headspace photos wont be available until then. But I will complete the instructions this weekend.

But you can "fake" show it by using the receiver stub that is on your barrel :flipoff2:

Do you plan on making a reciever wrench or barrel vice? There are blueprints for both flaoting around out there but either are retardedly simple to build.

I will be following this and as soon as I can get my receiver ordered I will be building mine. Now we just need a CETME/G3 build thread.

But you can "fake" show it by using the receiver stub that is on your barrel :flipoff2:

Do you plan on making a reciever wrench or barrel vice? There are blueprints for both flaoting around out there but either are retardedly simple to build.

Yes and no. To show the timing I plan on demonstrating the dual rod method and the level method. Can't do the headspace with out the receiver :D

Yeah definately going to make my own tools. I am doing the receiver wrench from a chunk of aluminum.

Most the disassembly text done. Manufacture of the tools with photos as well as disassembly photos will get done and posted this weeked.

Actually the first FAL examples were 7.92 Kurz (7.92x33)

Actually the first FAL examples were 7.92 Kurz (7.92x33)
Thanks :D

Great thread Aloha.. Just in time :p

My parts kit is in the mail... and the G1 reciever should've shipped out of Arizona this afternoon :D I cant fawking wait :laughing:

Disassemble the Bolt
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/falmetbolt.jpg

To remove the Bolt(6) from the Carrier(1) hold the carrier upside down. Push the bolt all the way to the rear and then lift up on the front of the Bolt.
Rotate the Bolt up and remove from the Carrier.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/carrier.jpg

The Bolt is pretty straight forward to strip down. The Tail(4) is spring loaded, so hold it steady while pushing out the Pin(5). Remove the Tail(4), Spring(2) and Push Rod(3).

You can oush out the Firing Pin Retaining Pin(9) and remove the Firing Pin(8) and Spring(7).

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/bolt01.jpg
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/bolt02.jpg

Finally the Extractor Guide Rod(11) gets pushed to the rear to clear the notch and then slowly lift the Extractor(10) away from the Bolt body and release spring pressure.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/extractor.jpg

Remove Spring(12) and Guide(11). I found this easiest to do using a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the Extractor Rod. I will be showing how to build a simple tool for this later.

if you wait till I get home (in 3 weeks :laughing: ) I will show you the neatest bolt disassembly tool made at home.
:::edit:::found it online
http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/falextractserger.htm

if you wait till I get home (in 3 weeks :laughing: ) I will show you the neatest bolt disassembly tool made at home.
:::edit:::found it online
http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/falextractserger.htm

Very cool, will add that to the tool build this weekend

All you need for this is a 6" long piece of 1"x1/8" plate, 1/2" drill bit, hacksaw, and files.

I set up my wrench on the side of the plate versus the end of the plate as in the Tapco tool.

mine
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/gaswrench.jpg

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/gas.jpg

Drill the hole close to the edge. Cut out and file to shape.

I don't have any 1/8 laying around so used some 3/16 scrap. I am going to get some and on that version will drill the ends for a press fit and install some drill rod for the sight adjuster.

I had a block of 1" thick aluminum. I cut out a 4" square.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/rw01.jpg

Measured up 1" from the bottom and drew a horizontal line.
Drew a vertical line in the center of the square.
I then placed my old receiver stub on the plate and traced around it.
Then clamped it down to the drill press and started making holes.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/rw02.jpg

Then turned the block so it was sitting in a vise vertically and drilled a 3/8 hole through the entire block. One hole vertically on each side of the receiver opening. Will use some 3/8" all thread or long bolts to hold the wrench together after spliting it in have horizontally.
After

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/rw03.jpg

I then used a small band saw with a 1/4" wide wood blade to cut the block in half and remove most of the material between the lines. Then went to a hand held scroll saw to remove more material.
Now working with files to get up to the traced lines.
Keep fitting the receiver stub up to check progress.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/rw04.jpg

Use can drill 2 holes down at the bottom edge of the finished plate to attach a piece of 2x1/4 plate to use as the handle.

For this I used a piece of 3/4 rod, some 1/4 rod, a 1"x1/4" piece of 12g 4130 sheet metal, Dremel with cut offs, 8x32 tap, various drill bits.

This is what the head of the bolt looks like inside the buttstock after removing the buttpad.
The hole through the bolt is just large enough for a stock military type M16 cleaning rod to pass through.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/but01.jpg

The bolt after it's been removed

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/but02.jpg

Bolt attached to tube

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/but03.jpg

Showing why you need the tool. I have already started compressing the springs to 1/2 their length. There is a lot of pressure here. I am using two sections of cleaning rod.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/but04.jpg

The rod I used for the main body was a piece of scrap from when I was practicing on how to use my lathe. The step isn't important. Just ensure that the rod fits into the base of the buttstock.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/but05.jpg

I drilled a 3/16" hole through one end of the body. I then redrilled with a 1/4" bit, but didn't completely drill all the way through. The lip left behind holds the 1/4" rod handle in place. Its a loose press fit.

At the other end center drill with the proper size bit for the 8-32 tap. I don't have the tap yet so just used a smaller drill bit to locate the hole.
Then use a hacksaw to slit the face. Ensure that its perfectly centered and cut down approximately 1/8".
Next move to the Dremel with cut off and widen the slit.
The 12g 4130 sheet metal I had laying around was almost the perfect thickness for the slot in the head of the stock bolt. Cut a small piece and migged into the slot. I will finish filling in the gaps with silver solder.
I left the piece too tall for the bolt slot and spent some time with files to shape to size and remove the middle section.

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/but06.jpg

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/but07.jpg

Now that it fits perfectly I will finish drill the center to size and then tap for the cleaning rod section.

I found these from DSA. Thinking about using them for my Para build and then use a pair of flip up sights. Will have a rail cover with an Eotech sight.:smokin:

http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/picatinny.jpg

The only issue with those is that your cheekweld will be a chin weld. Cool idea but I'm not sure how functional it would be.

The only issue with those is that your cheekweld will be a chin weld. Cool idea but I'm not sure how functional it would be.

I never really thought about that. DSA is using it them on their SASS submission, but it has a height adjustable cheek piece.

I do like the idea of a more adjustable sight. I know that it works and has done so for 50 years I just find the standard windage adjust ment hoakie.

As mentioned I plan on doing two versions, the para and a full size. I would really like to try and set up the fullsize as a high power canidate. I don't have a lathe that is capable of threading a barrel so I need to find someone that can do that for me. Want to get a 1-10 Shilen and get it threaded for the receiver and then either use a custom gas block or turn down from the bloack area forward to an HB diameter and use an Izzy GB.

I was thinking about the rear A2 sight because it is so much more adjustable. The elevation drum would need some work, remarking the indexes, but I think it would be doable. On my AR I even though the sight is marked 3-8 I have set mine up to go from 1-8. The sight might not be able to be fully marked 1-1000 for a .308 but one full revolution should fit 2-5 at least. Then just count up or down from there. just kinda thinking out loud. The izzy rear sight is taller then the imbal, be interesting to compare with the A2 type. Being able to use something like this would be perfect

What about the para rear sight? I know it's easily windage adjustable, not sure on elevation though.

Windage only. There are a couple of different things to look at. Maybe I am chasing a dream and should just suck it up and get a NM M1A1. just think it would be cool to have a supper accurate FAL

following with great interest!

did i miss it or did you not say where you're getting your receiver from? also, what's the difference between a Type 1, Type 2, etc? Carry handle or no carry handle?

I am getting my receivers from Entreprise.
Type-03 for 225ea. On 1 April their prices went up a little, currently listing their "dealer" price as 240. Not sure if that's the same price a person calling up to order would get.
I am also on the waiting list for the DCI receivers that NoDakSpud is distributing.
DSA makes what are reportedly the best quality FAL receivers out there.
For me I don't much care if I need to chase some threads or hand fit the parts. After building my AK/FAL hybrid I am not worried about it. Plus no one has seen/reviewed the current run of Entreprise stuff. We shall see.

Basically the Type-01s are the earliest ones produced.
The differences between type 01, 02, and 03 are purely looks. Easiest way to explain is with photos.

Type 01 with the carry handle slot
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/type1ch.jpg

Type 01 without slot
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/type1nh.jpg

Type 02 with slot
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/type2ch.jpg

type 3 with slot
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/type03ch.jpg

type 3 without slot
http://www.aloharovers.com/weapon/fal/type03nh.jpg

These are all Metric receivers. Inches look the same.
The G1 and Isreali reproductions are purely the markings on the rifle. The G1 and the Metric are physically the same, can use either for the build. Some people want as accurate a reproduction as possible.

Hopefully someone will provide more information about the various rifles.

Have you gotten your receivers yet? I'm curious to hear your opinions on the Enterprise receiver as I'm thinking about picking one up for my build. I'd love to get a DSA but over $450 is pretty hard to swallow for me right now.

Have you gotten your receivers yet? I'm curious to hear your opinions on the Enterprise receiver as I'm thinking about picking one up for my build. I'd love to get a DSA but over $450 is pretty hard to swallow for me right now.
They are not expected to ship until sometime next month, EOM, is what they told us

Have you gotten your receivers yet? I'm curious to hear your opinions on the Enterprise receiver as I'm thinking about picking one up for my build. I'd love to get a DSA but over $450 is pretty hard to swallow for me right now.

I think members of FAL files get a discount on DSA receivers for $350.

How tight should the gas tube be once srewed into the gas block?

The threads on my long gas tube dont look so good, when I screw it into the gas block, it will thread in all the way but never gets very tight. Almost feels like it is skipping threads at the end and will never tighten up all the way. The threads look tapered also, like pipe thread :confused:

The threads in the gas block look OK.

The cross pin, through the gas block and gas tube keep it from unscrewing.
I have 3-4 different gas blocks and on none of them can I actually tighten down the tube enough to get the pin in. So it is loose. Even with the pin in it moves a degree or two.
Threads are 17/32x36tpi.
Off the wall thread, but it's not a taper.
Roll your gas tube on a flat surface (sheet of glass) and see if the end is bent.

Yeah.. I can screw it in far enough to get the cross pin through, but it is fairly loose. With it all the way in I can move the rear of the tube up and down about a 1/2" from one extreme to the other.. I know it will be pretty steady once it is in the small tube that goes into the upper, Im just worried about a gas leak.. should I be? I just wasnt sure if the tube should end up tighter than this before the pin is inserted.

Yeah.. I can screw it in far enough to get the cross pin through, but it is fairly loose. With it all the way in I can move the rear of the tube up and down about a 1/2" from one extreme to the other.. I know it will be pretty steady once it is in the small tube that goes into the upper, Im just worried about a gas leak.. should I be? I just wasnt sure if the tube should end up tighter than this before the pin is inserted.

The FAL does not operate like the AR. The 'gas' tube is really a guide for the piston. The tube doesn't retain pressure.

The FAL does not operate like the AR. The 'gas' tube is really a guide for the piston. The tube doesn't retain pressure.

Cool. Thanks for the help.

did you remove your barrel from the upper receiver? i was looking at mine tonight and can't really see how to do it. i want to cut my barrel down to 18" and thread it. i bought my fal built and don't know much about them.

did you remove your barrel from the upper receiver? i was looking at mine tonight and can't really see how to do it. i want to cut my barrel down to 18" and thread it. i bought my fal built and don't know much about them.

Yes I did.
Placed my barrel in aluminum covered bench vise.
I then used a large metal bar between the receiver stubs. Applied just a little heat with a hand held propane. After the first pop it unscrewed easily.

I have also seen where some people have made a very shallow cut with a Dremel. Basically as soon as you see the metal turn blue for the threads dont go any deeper.

The April 2 and April 30 issues of SGN has a two part article on FAL building.

Yes I did.
Placed my barrel in aluminum covered bench vise.
I then used a large metal bar between the receiver stubs. Applied just a little heat with a hand held propane. After the first pop it unscrewed easily.

I have also seen where some people have made a very shallow cut with a Dremel. Basically as soon as you see the metal turn blue for the threads dont go any deeper.

The April 2 and April 30 issues of SGN has a two part article on FAL building.


by receiver stubs do you mean the mag well?

Exactly :D

Exactly :D


thanks. i just wanted to make sure. if i mess up the upper receiver then i am pretty much done with the fal in california.

thanks. i just wanted to make sure. if i mess up the upper receiver then i am pretty much done with the fal in california.
woah!!!
wait!!!

I thought you meant remove the receiver stub from a parts kit.
If you do the bar through the mag well on an actual receiver you will bend the receiver
You need a receiver wrench.

MAYBE you can cut a piece of hard wood to be a very tight fit in the mag well and then place the receiver in a padded vice and remove the bbl with a bbl wrench.

You need to remove the gas tube as earlier in the thread, before removing the bbl.

If you have a really really good adjustable wrench or buy a open wrench of the proper size you can use the flats of the bbl, but I think you would be better off with a bbl wrench.

gotcha.

I know that if you do some light grinding on a 1 1/16" wrench, you can get it to fit tight on the barrel flats too.

27.65mm on the flats if it helps

27.65mm on the flats if it helps


can i get one of those wrenches at cragen?:flipoff2:

i got some more reading to do before i pull the barrel off. when i posted i didn't even see the flats on the bbl. i figured the handguard retainer was installed between the bbl and the receiver but now i see it is just sitting on the bbl.

i got some more reading to do before i pull the barrel off. when i posted i didn't even see the flats on the bbl. i figured the handguard retainer was installed between the bbl and the receiver but now i see it is just sitting on the bbl.

Post #5

Refinishing the wood hardware.

The receivers still are not in :(
But I did do some FAL related work.

Northridge has a complete wood set for 20$. Forearm halves, pistol grip, and butt stock. No metal parts but for 20$ too good of a deal to pass over.
Typical dents and dings and years worth of cleaner and oil.

I dunked them in purple power cleaner for about 30 minutes, then washed in hot soap and water.
Left to dry for a couple days.
Then sanded with 100, 150, and 220 paper.
I didn't take the time to steam. The deepest marks (see last photo) are more gouges then dents. I spent maybe 1.5-2 hrs total sanding and Got 90% of the marks out. You can't really see in the first photo but all of the pieces are covered in scratches.

Gave them a very light rub of Minwax red mahagoney stain. I think they wood would look great with just a coat of Tung oil, but I liked the darker color. Gives it a very walnut color.
I let the stain dry overnight and then two coats of tung oil.
I might put one or two nmore on. I don't want a high gloss finish on this rifle. The metal will end up grey park with the smaller bits black duracoat.

Now that the wood is done I have decided to drill out the rivits and paint the metal liners seperately. Oil the back side of the wood and then reattach.

sorry if i missed it but have you figured how much this build is going to cost total?

sorry if i missed it but have you figured how much this build is going to cost total?

it can vary from as cheap as $400 (assorted parts or good deal on a parts kit and a century receiver) to a LOT more (rare PARA or other rare FAL and a imbel or DSA receiver)

I am getting ready to place an order for 2 DSA receivers as I am done waiting for others. One will be a customer build and one will be something beautiful for me :evil:

sorry if i missed it but have you figured how much this build is going to cost total?

Entreprise receiver: $225
Imbel Kit: $199
US Parts Kit: $130 Hammer, Sear, Flash Suppressor, 3pc Furniture

So 555$

Wood looks great Pete!

K

Completed Imbal FAL kit on a Century receiver.

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/fal02.jpg

Completed L1A1 kit on an Imbel L1A1 receiver.

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/l1a1.jpg

Completed STG-58 kit on an Imbel receiver.

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/stg.jpg

More fun stuff from the man in brown :D

More fun stuff from the man in brown :D

what was the wait on those recievers? and can yo get them for any less than I can? :flipoff2:

what was the wait on those recievers? and can yo get them for any less than I can? :flipoff2:

Entreprise, ordered in April. No they don't do dealer discounts.

The DSAs should be here in another week or so. 8 week turn around. I get the same rate as FAL files users.

The M1 is from CMP. Got here in 5 days.

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/l1a101.jpg

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/l1a102.jpg

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/l1a103.jpg

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/l1a104.jpg

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/fal1.jpg

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/fal2.jpg

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/images/fal3.jpg

Nice work- me likes.:D

So this past week I sat down and built up 3 imbel kits on the Entreprise receivers. What a total pain in the ass. The finish is good, but required a lot of work.
Ordered them back when they were still 225$ prepaid. Today they are 290, compared to the FAL-Files DSA price of 350.

Out of the three only one was able to hand time correctly. And yes tried all the barrels I have in the ones that didn't. Best I could get was 9'oclock on one of them.
The other was 10. But the one at 10 I couldn't even screw the barrel in more then have way. So I applied some lapping compound to the threads and kept working the barrel in and out until it was seated.
Since I don't have a lathe I took a block of oak and drilled a hole in it just barely large enough so the threaded portion of the barrel would sit on it.
I then used some spray adhesive to attach a piece of sand paper to the block, cut out a hole in the sand paper. Couple squirts of oil. Drop the barrel in and twist. Kinda looked like I was trying to start a fire. I started with 220 wet dry and moved up to 400. Took forever on the one to get the shoulder knocked back.
I had to do the lapping compound trick on one of the gas tube threads also.
On one of the receivers the locking shoulder wasn't perfectly formed. A lot of metal from the ejector block had been pushed up into the shoulder hole and they never removed it. Some time spent with a small round file fixed it.
Now the worse thing was the mag wells. On all three receivers they were too small. More so in the width then the length. They would cut metal off the magazines as you tried to insert it, they were so tight.
Took a lot of work with the Dremal, but finally got them so that a mag could easily be insert and would drop clear when the mag release was pressed.
No problems with fit to the lower, bolt rails, or top cover.
But as it was took almost 8 hours work to get three of them barrelled, timed, headspaced, and the mag wells fixed.
I am all for saving some cash, but Entreprises time to deliver isn't any quicker then DSA's, maybe ever a little longer. They charge your CC at the time of order, not time of shipping (DSA does ToS)
And then the amount of time required to get them working.
Not worth it IMHO. I won't be ordering any more and I will be very upfront with customers that want me to build on them.

Pete

So this past week I sat down and built up 3 imbel kits on the Entreprise receivers. What a total pain in the ass. The finish is good, but required a lot of work.
Ordered them back when they were still 225$ prepaid. Today they are 290, compared to the FAL-Files DSA price of 350.

Out of the three only one was able to hand time correctly. And yes tried all the barrels I have in the ones that didn't. Best I could get was 9'oclock on one of them.
The other was 10. But the one at 10 I couldn't even screw the barrel in more then have way. So I applied some lapping compound to the threads and kept working the barrel in and out until it was seated.
Since I don't have a lathe I took a block of oak and drilled a hole in it just barely large enough so the threaded portion of the barrel would sit on it.
I then used some spray adhesive to attach a piece of sand paper to the block, cut out a hole in the sand paper. Couple squirts of oil. Drop the barrel in and twist. Kinda looked like I was trying to start a fire. I started with 220 wet dry and moved up to 400. Took forever on the one to get the shoulder knocked back.
I had to do the lapping compound trick on one of the gas tube threads also.
On one of the receivers the locking shoulder wasn't perfectly formed. A lot of metal from the ejector block had been pushed up into the shoulder hole and they never removed it. Some time spent with a small round file fixed it.
Now the worse thing was the mag wells. On all three receivers they were too small. More so in the width then the length. They would cut metal off the magazines as you tried to insert it, they were so tight.
Took a lot of work with the Dremal, but finally got them so that a mag could easily be insert and would drop clear when the mag release was pressed.
No problems with fit to the lower, bolt rails, or top cover.
But as it was took almost 8 hours work to get three of them barrelled, timed, headspaced, and the mag wells fixed.
I am all for saving some cash, but Entreprises time to deliver isn't any quicker then DSA's, maybe ever a little longer. They charge your CC at the time of order, not time of shipping (DSA does ToS)
And then the amount of time required to get them working.
Not worth it IMHO. I won't be ordering any more and I will be very upfront with customers that want me to build on them.

Pete

I ordered my receiver from DSA about a month or so ago. I heard only good things about their receivers but I hope my build will not have the same problems as your did. I'm assuming it was just poor quality of the Enterprise receivers that were giving you the problems you encountered is that correct?

Yes. The difficulties are directly related to the receivers.
I will only use DSA from this point forward

Good luck getting ANYTHING from DSA in a timely manner :laughing:


On all our entreprise receivers, when using the Imbel barrels, ALL barrels timed out at 10:00. They were a bit of a pain in the ass, and once they were timed, getting them to 12:00 took a lot of effort. It actually bent our 4' pipe that was welded onto our receiver wrench.

however, with the DSA barrel we used--1 medium contour and 1 G1 barrel both timed at exactly 11:00, and both set with minimal effort. One medium contour timed out to 12:00 and will require a shim.

On one of the receivers, extensive dremeling was required on the feed ramp and surrounding area to get a bolt to close completely. But on all others, little to no dremeling or filing was required. Mine required no additional work.

One receiver, when fitted with a hampton lower and G1 barrel, the only difficulty has been headspacing. The pin gauges we're using only go down to .253, which is too big. We're guestimating it will need a .250 locking shoulder to headspace.

As far as entreprise receivers go, I would not recommend them for a first-time builder, or for anyone who does not have much experience when it comes to working on firearms. But for someone with some experience, they're fine--just a bit of extra work. I just wish their price reflected it appropriately.

As far as entreprise receivers go, I would not recommend them for a first-time builder, or for anyone who does not have much experience when it comes to working on firearms. But for someone with some experience, they're fine--just a bit of extra work. I just wish their price reflected it appropriately.

The original price of 225 was not too bad, but they are 295 now (no dealer discounts)

When I ordered from DSA they told me 90-120 days.
Last week they told me to expect them at the end of Oct. that will be 100 days.

We ordered the Ents in March/April and told we would have them early June. And then every month "One more month" until they arrived at the end of August. Based on the dates in your thread and in mine it looks like our receivers are only 30 days appart, but a world of difference in the quality. Every thing except the mag wells didn't phaze me, but not being able to insert a mag kinda sucks. Though I guess I could sell the to CA since they required tools to remove the mag after inserted :D

Are all FAL barrels as long as the Imbel and L1A1 you built? They are entirely too long imo... Are they like 24" barrels? Or is it just the rest of the gun making it seem that long?

Are all FAL barrels as long as the Imbel and L1A1 you built? They are entirely too long imo... Are they like 24" barrels? Or is it just the rest of the gun making it seem that long?



Barrels are generally 21". Usually the muzzle device adds a few extra inches.

You can get barrels from 21" to 16" from various sources.

Are all FAL barrels as long as the Imbel and L1A1 you built? They are entirely too long imo... Are they like 24" barrels? Or is it just the rest of the gun making it seem that long?


You can also have the stock one cut down and re-threaded for a pretty minimal price. I had mine cut to 17.25".

The kits I am getting come with new 21" chrome lined barrels.
I am getting them cut down to 16.5", crowned, and then rethreaded.
The STG58 flash hider is supper long, as are the L1A1 5-prongs.
Yankee Hill makes the phantom in an FAl thread. Also primary Weapon Systems has a couple breaks with the correct thread.
On the imbel and STg the threads are way up inside the body of the FH. I am cutting a couple down so they are only about 2" long.

Pete

Pete, I can cut the FH too.

Pete, I can cut the FH too.

Thanks. That is actually something I can do on my Sherline :D

Pete

how to get pissed off at a FAL at home:

instead of being patient to borrow a barrel vice and receiver wrench you get bored at work and make an aluminum receiver block and decide to use a 1 1/16 wrench on the barrel flats.

the block comes out pimp but is aluminum as you are going to use it in the vice and not "as a wrench"

put receiver in block in vice and hand screw barrel and it indexes fine. put wrench on flats and start to tighten and it feels "tight" too soon.

Notice that breech is rubbing the feed lip area

go to remove barrel to fix this problem and the wrench slips off rounding the flats :mad3: try for a fucking hour to get this fucking wrench to work get pissed use a V chunck of aluminum in a ghetto ass way to make a fucking barrel block but it sucks cause you have no resin and it slips and you tighten and tighten and use 2 C clamps on the receiver block with a fucking 5 foot piece of angle iron to turn this fucking pig and it slips and takes a fucking chunk out of your hand :mad3: and the barrel STILL spins and you tighten it more only to hear "SNAP" and its not the "good" snap the the sound of a 6" fucking vice breaking :mad3::mad3: and you get pissed and say fuckit as now your entire plans for the fucking weekend are assed up.

and pete, I will still need that block and wrench when ya get around to it

That sucks. It also sound exactly like how I broke my last bug bench vise.

http://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/080860107.jpg

The barrel vise bolts down to a solid surface then the receiver wrench clamps around the receiver.

My current building bench is a bunch of 2x4's bolted and glued together. Then a peice of birch faced plywood is glued and scred down. So the bench top is 4" think.
Its lagged into the cement waste high wall in the garage and I got post hangers for the 4x4 legs. This are set into the concrete floor with one of those .22 cal nail guns.
So the barrel vise bolts down to the bench with some gr8 6" long bolts.
Brush on a light powdering of rosin on the shells and barrel. I use a 3/8 drive ratchet for the hex had clamp bolts. Lube up the threads good and tighten down.
I have only had one barrel that this hasn't worked on. I ended up welding the barrel to a 10' long hunk of steel. That gotter done. :D

That sucks. It also sound exactly like how I broke my last bug bench vise.

I am going to give it one more whack today for shits and giggles.

Went to shoot today. First time in a couple weeks the temps were above freezing. It was actual mid 50's :smokin:

Got to fire the Saiga for the first time. Tested a couple sigs and AK. And two more FAL builds. One wont cycle at all no matter how the gas plug was set. Yes the piston was installed :D

The other one ran like a charm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZy5rf6WZBM

One wont cycle at all no matter how the gas plug was set. Yes the piston was installed :D

what size gas hole? binding?

Both carbines have the same new barrel, same sized gas port.
This rifle was firing just fine until I swapped out the gas block :eek:

Both carbines have the same new barrel, same sized gas port.
This rifle was firing just fine until I swapped out the gas block :eek:

did you put a belgin block on a imbel barrel or vice versa (or whatever) they have the port in different locations :laughing::flipoff2:

oh and ya, barrel aint moving and I pulled my left bicep, ouch. I will wait to rent your block and wrench :laughing: oh and if you have a spare handguard ring you would like to sell let me know :laughing:

:mad:

I will take it back off tomorrow and pull out the calipers. I hope thats all it is.

Pete

:mad:

I will take it back off tomorrow and pull out the calipers. I hope thats all it is.

Pete

or if you swapped gas plugs by accident as well it will do the same :flipoff2:

pull the sight and see if you can see light in the bore with no plug/piston in and then see how long your gas plug is.

well I got the barrel off :D BTW a barrel vice held down with a 20T press will NOT move :evil: so I clocked it and installed it and taadaaaaaa


put the handguard ring on backwards :laughing: FUCKIT. i will cut and weld the ring or press the gas block of before pulling that barrel again :rolleyes:

headspace question: will close on GO, take thumb pressure to close on GO with a piece of paper between. will close on a match round, takes thumb pressure with a piece of paper.
will NOT close on NOGO.
run it? (I am thinking yes)

run it

run it

thinking it :D

anyone ever run into a receiver being "long" ? like it sticks past the dust cover 1/16" and will not latch on a Imbel lower because its "too long" ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZy5rf6WZBM

That's nice.

But what the hell is this techno-music Santa Claus thing you posted on Youtube, Pete? :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akqpGCtIWpM&feature=user

thinking it :D

anyone ever run into a receiver being "long" ? like it sticks past the dust cover 1/16" and will not latch on a Imbel lower because its "too long" ?

got a photo?

got a photo?

nope. but picture that but the ass end of the receiver being like 1/16 longer. by eyeball measuring it is also that same amount longer than my Imbel and my other century. with the pivot pin removed and the lower locked in and shoved forward it still needs a little to go before the pin can go in

That's nice.

But what the hell is this techno-music Santa Claus thing you posted on Youtube, Pete? :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akqpGCtIWpM&feature=user

Norad Track Santa.

I developed the website and google maps implementation this year.

Norad Track Santa.

I developed the website and google maps implementation this year.

You shit me not ? :eek:

put the handguard ring on backwards :laughing: FUCKIT. i will cut and weld the ring or press the gas block of before pulling that barrel again :rolleyes:




Had that happen on one of our FAL builds last year. Dremel cutoff wheel and re-welding it was a hell of a lot easier than removing and re-clocking the barrel.

nope. but picture that but the ass end of the receiver being like 1/16 longer. by eyeball measuring it is also that same amount longer than my Imbel and my other century. with the pivot pin removed and the lower locked in and shoved forward it still needs a little to go before the pin can go in

hmm, maybe you need to file a bit off the ass end?

You shit me not ? :eek:

No Booz Allen was one of the partners for the project this year and I did all the web stuff. BAH also did graphics and all of the flash games. Another partner did the translations and a third did the animations.

We also partnered with Google. they did all of the hosting and the Google Earth tracking.
Since they were a partner we had all the animations and movies hosted on youtube. I stuck up a couple things in my own space to use for testing and development. In google maps, Santa would stop at a different spot on the earth every 5 minutes. I set it up so you could load the web page and then just sit back and watch as he bounced around. At a number of locations there were video and these I embeded into the maps application. Was an awesome project and experiance. I got a bunch of positive feedback from some very senior people in our company :D

BAH wanted to hire me and Uncle Sam said I couldn't go. :(



That bastard. :laughing:

both function perfectly :evil: now I just have to take apart the STG to send the barrel for threading.

question on brass markings:
The base has a slight "line" on it from the extractor area. is this normal? the primer shows no sign of flow and the case has no sign of overpressure or bulging. just a slight line where the extractor slot is on the bolt face. Both FALs headspace fine.

pics?

pics?
Hold a min

see the line? I cant feel it or catch a nail on it or anything. I actually have to hold it in the correct side light to catch it.

looking close it looks like extractor damage....hmm no clue

Looks like your extractor might be sitting a bit too far forward or something of the sort.

Looks like your extractor might be sitting a bit too far forward or something of the sort.

there is a little dent on the mouth but its hard to tell if its not just a dust cover kiss.
I can fuck around with it an see

Commercial brass, or mil-surp? I don't immediately recognize that headstamp....


Or try different valve settings to see if they keep having that line show up.

Commercial brass, or mil-surp? I don't immediately recognize that headstamp....


Or try different valve settings to see if they keep having that line show up.

commercial. I think its winchester or someones :laughing:

edit: Remington

commercial. I think its winchester or someones :laughing:

edit: Remington



Try running some mil-surp through it and see if you get similar results.


I'd guess that the softer commercial brass would be the culprit...

Try running some mil-surp through it and see if you get similar results.


I'd guess that the softer commercial brass would be the culprit...

it was the last shit I was firing as I was testing gas settings on the Imbel/Century build with diffrent ammo. I picked it up and saw that.

worked kick ass and fired just fine, no issues at all other than that

I wouldn't worry about it at all.
It is a dent from extraction, not firing.

I wouldn't worry about it at all.
It is a dent from extraction, not firing.



It might be problematic if you want to reload the brass...

I am just bringing this thread back up to the top and adding it to my subscriptions. I am going to need some of this info in the next week or two.

carry on...:flipoff2:

add me to the list. i just got one in today. this is complicated compared to a AK :laughing:

complicated compared to a AK :laughing:


Not really.

I thought it was actually a bit easier...

well the shit is covered in grease, and i havent ever seen one before, so its more complicated right now :flipoff2:

well the shit is covered in grease, and i havent ever seen one before, so its more complicated right now :flipoff2:



I have a FAL build thread floating around here somewhere, and in one of the pics, you could see my cosmo-douched parts. It was a mess to clean up, but turned out to be a great rifle :D

Well, is it finished yet?


Is it back together :grinpimp: ?!

I just started bead blasting my parts today.

Pete, how did you seal the barrel during parkerizing? Would the rise in air pressure during the bath not push out the silicone plugs they sale??

Thanks

I just started bead blasting my parts today.

Pete, how did you seal the barrel during parkerizing? Would the rise in air pressure during the bath not push out the silicone plugs they sale??

Thanks




Most FAL barrels are going to be chrome lined, so you don't really need to worry about it. You can park them without any plugs.

Thanks, I am working on my tank tomorrow. I still have to order my solution.

Who makes the BEST solution for the darker color??

If I make my own flash suppresor, will that count as a US compliant part?
Or does it have to be commercialy made in US.

Thanks

If I make my own flash suppresor, will that count as a US compliant part?
Or does it have to be commercialy made in US.

Thanks




If you are in the US when you make it, then yes. :flipoff2:

A little time on the lathe and mill and I now have my version of a flash suppressor! :p I will take pics tommorrow when I can get to my camera.

DSA Receiver
THS,Gas rod, Mag floor plate all from GunPartsGuy and I am compliant!


Can't wait to get it going but I know the DSA Receiver will take a while:(