Hey guys, what's going on? Im another damn newbie! I have a '96 Z-71 with a 14SF, IFS crap, and other stuff. I have a Dana44 sitting in my yard waiting to go under the front. I am not sure what it is from since I got it from a scrapyard, but it is the correct WMS to match the stock setup. I believe its one of the Wagonneer wide 44's with auto hubs, SUA, Pandhard bar(I think), and 6 lugs. I want to know what I would need to do to convert the outers to something more common for parts like the Chevy or Ford outers. I am thinking about the Ford 44 HD 8 lug outers since I THINK they come with dual piston calipers. What type of prices am I looking at also?
Thanks
Give a moment of your time, and help a newbie in need:rasta:

can i recommend the searchhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/top_search.gif button.. seems to work wonders for everyone else

First off...... the SF 14 bolt you have is it 8 lug or 6 lug?
If it's six... don't waste any time Just swing that axle right under there... be sure to post the pic's of the IFS brackets and crap all piled up on the ground under the truck..... always satisfying to see...
Secondly the dual piston Ford calipers and knuckles are not all that much better , you will have to grind the calipers down a Heck of a lot to fit 15" rims.. also the Ford stuff uses an oddball shorter (by 1/2" or so )stub axle the chev and Jeep waggy use the same length stub.
If you need an eight lug setup you should just swap the outers off of a GM Dana 44 or 10 bolt.... the spindle bolt pattern is the same and the GM backing plates and the superior Delco/GM calipers will work like stock. ( and the master cylinder you already have will work for them .....)

Originally posted by CRO

Secondly the dual piston Ford calipers and knuckles are not all that much better , you will have to grind the calipers down a Heck of a lot to fit 15" rims..


Have you ever ground dual-piston Ford calipers, I'm guessing no so I'll enlighten you. It takes about 15-20 minutes per side, of touch grinding. Not much work at all to fit a 3.5" BS, 15" rim. Chevy calipers actually require the huge amount of grinding. You shouldn't spread too much "I heard" or "I read" info, unless you know from seeing that it's true. To read more about this search for a recent thread by Patooyee which shows how much a Chevy must be ground to fit the same rim I have.

Ditch the semi-float 14 bolt while your doing all this, full-floats are really cheap.

You need to do a search. I've read this topic before and if I remember right the transfercase on IFS is on the other side(driverside insted of passangerside) and I'm thinking the jeep front end will not work unless you change the t case. I remember most of the sas guys were using Ford dana 44's for there swaps. I could be wrong I only read a few write ups in passing sents I don't have an IFS truck. Good luck.

Thanks for the help so far.... So I take it, I should go with Chevy outers or actually keep the ones I have? Or change master cylinders for a dual piston setup? The axle is drivers drop, by the way. The SF I have right now is 6 lug, and I do plan on ditching it since FF's are so cheap to find in Texas and Louisiana.
For springs, I am thinking of Dodge 2500 coils mounted under the frame which is the exact width of the factory SUA leaf perches on the 44. And using the panhard for the 3rd link of a 3 link, with 2 heim link traction bars for the other 2 points. Or is there some 3, 4, or 5 link setup that someone on here has that you guys recommend?
I read in the P4x4 Bible yesterday that this axle uses D30 U Joints, is this true or am I tripping?
By the way, it is hard to search when you type D44 or SFA;)
I only have about a grand to burn(suspension) right now, so I am GUESSING I will be waiting a little longer, unless y'all think I should go for it now.

Originally posted by Z71InProgress

I read in the P4x4 Bible yesterday that this axle uses D30 U Joints, is this true or am I tripping?
I only have about a grand to burn(suspension) right now, so I am GUESSING I will be waiting a little longer, unless y'all think I should go for it now.

Yes a 44 uses a 297-x joint, same as the newer D30s. My best guess if that if you only have a grand to burn you won't have enough funds to pull it off. My axle swap (F&R) ended up running about $3500 just to build the axles. Granted that's with a HP60 so take it for what it's worth.

Originally posted by bigdude


Have you ever ground dual-piston Ford calipers, I'm guessing no so I'll enlighten you. It takes about 15-20 minutes per side, of touch grinding. Not much work at all to fit a 3.5" BS, 15" rim. Chevy calipers actually require the huge amount of grinding. You shouldn't spread too much "I heard" or "I read" info, unless you know from seeing that it's true. To read more about this search for a recent thread by Patooyee which shows how much a Chevy must be ground to fit the same rim I have.

Ditch the semi-float 14 bolt while your doing all this, full-floats are really cheap.
Uhhhh I run a D44 with 4 inches of back space...It came that way...no grinding required. That's on the 1/2 ton set up. On GM the 3/4 ton set up uses EXACTLY the same caliper. Just a larger rotor and of course a backing plate to relocate the caliper farther out. Minimal grinding on a 4 inch back space and almost none on 3.5 for the GM single piston. On that it takes about a 1/4 inch or the outer edges and about 1/8 in the center to clear a 15. D 60 is whole different story. Grind till you can grind no more and then grind another 1/4 inch.
I guess next time I'm over at My buds I need to look at his caliper for his 79 Bronco and see what these look like. didn't know there was a dual piston on them. Are they capable of any more clamping force that the GM single with the 2.5 or so inch single piston?
As for ditching the SF...Yeah the FF is stronger but your weak pint is going to be the front not the back. I'd save the cash and the hassle and stay 6 lug since you already have the parts sitting there. When you find a D60 front and are ready to swap that under then worry about it. Reason being it you have ABS and that SF14 has the tone ring on it.
Msot of these conversions I have seen used a Revers cut D44 out of a pre 80 ford Like a Full size Bronco or F150. Then swap the GM Spindle, Hub and Brake assembly on to match the lug pattern.
The U-Joint. you got it backwards. The D30 uses the D44 size U-Joints refered to as 297's. The D30 runs the same size axle yoke for the knuckle is my understanding (might be wrong) There is a ser designation for a stronger u-joint from Spicer. There is also the CTM that with Warn shafts are concidered about as strong as you can make a D44. Do a search on CTM and you will find MANY posts about these U-Joints.
If you leave the front axle open and easy on the right foot you should be able to do ok with up to 35's on the stock shafts with the better spicer.

Originally posted by Grim Reaper

D 60 is whole different story. Grind till you can grind no more and then grind another 1/4 inch.


That's what I was referring to. Guess I have 1-ton tunnel vision (which isn't a bad thing:D ) Still the grinding to fit a dual piston is minimal with 3.5" BS on a Ford, and no one can take that away from me:p

Now that makes sence. You had me confused. Wish I had D60 tunnel vision. Can't find any little lone cheap. They seem to have vaporized from the S.E.

What size tires will the 44 be able to handle with Spicer parts versus Warn/CTM with a locker? I have read a lot about CTM and how awesome they are. I would love to try them, but at $300 a pair, things get hefty. Is a lunchbox locker like the Gearless worth the time? Or should I go with a real locker like a Detroit, Ox, or ARB?
Hell, I just want that axle under BAD. I am sick and tired of this IFS crap.

Are you the "LAW"?

A 44 should handle no more than 38's or 39's if setup right:rolleyes: