Ok.. I gotta lift it with a body lift, so i need to ask some q's, since its gunna be home brewed..

Someone said that its not bolts like a Jeep, that its studs. Are the studs attached to the frame, or attached to the Body? Also, what size are the bolts?

I'm using 3" square tubing, and want to weld new studs into the tubing, and reuse the old studs to hold down the tubing.

Anyone got numbers?

-Karl

There are 10 fixation points. Six of them are M10 x 1,25 studs attached to the body and 04 are M10 x 1,25 bolts.

Besides these 10 points, there are a number of other support points. Be sure to continue to support the body at these points, as otherwise, the body sheet metal will eventually crack. BTDT, under my seat...:(

HTH:beer:

Thanks BIll. Thats wxactly what i needed to know. Studs attached to body. Thanks for the dimensions as well!!

-Karl

I was wondering if there is any reason you couldn't grind the studs off, and drill holes through the body at those points. At that point, it is mounted like any other body...and much easier without dealing with stud extenders and such. :D

I'm doing it this way so tha if needed, i can go back to the original engine, and take the body lift off. Thats why i am using 3" square tubing, so i can just bolt the spacer onto the body, then bolt the spacer to the frame.

-Karl

Originally posted by dangerber
I was wondering if there is any reason you couldn't grind the studs off, and drill holes through the body at those points. At that point, it is mounted like any other body...and much easier without dealing with stud extenders and such. :D


I´m going from memory here, but I think that you´ll have a problem doing this with the two studs in back of the front tires. There´s no access from above.

Then again, I could be wrong:p

Originally posted by billj



I´m going from memory here, but I think that you´ll have a problem doing this with the two studs in back of the front tires. There´s no access from above.

Then again, I could be wrong:p

(as far as my 1991 model goes), the studs that were non-accessable were the ones "in front of the rear tires" just where the body jogs upwards, a few inches inboard from the base of the targa bar/B pillar.:D

used extra long pieces of 2''x2'' steel for mine, to spread out the contact areas. did it just over 9 years ago now, and have had no problems at all.;)

if you use 3in tube it will be a 4in lift the kit for a 3in comes with 2x2.

Originally posted by UZI 9mm


(as far as my 1991 model goes), the studs that were non-accessable were the ones "in front of the rear tires" just where the body jogs upwards, a few inches inboard from the base of the targa bar/B pillar.:D

used extra long pieces of 2''x2'' steel for mine, to spread out the contact areas. did it just over 9 years ago now, and have had no problems at all.;)



i used ALL stock mounts when i did mine, i cut off every stud and used 6" 1/2" bolts.............. the ones behind the seats are hiden by a litle hump just before the wheel well, i cut a T into the hump, and bent the sides out and there was the stud....... grind off the top and away you go.......bend the metal back over and your done, the ones just behind the front wheel wells i measured from underneeth and then inside and where i figured the stud would be i cut a square in the floor about 2x2" and then torched out those bolts(can't get a grinder n there).........and all the rest are easy, i can get pics of where i cut and exactly where if you need them, let me know......
l8r
-Mike:roxy:

To keep firmly the body firmly bolted to the chassis, I made 4 spacers with M10 hole and 6 spacer with OEM bushing width inside. Inside of them I bolted a steel piece that have a M10X1.25 tread on both sides, one to bolt to chasis and other end to tight with a nut.

When i had to do my body lift for the engine swap....I took a piece of 2" solid aluminum round, cut 1" pieces off and drilled a hole in the center.....Lifted the body, used the stock body bushings and put new bolts through it. Works pretty damn well!!