. Yardog helped me with the welding and provided the garage to work in, so big thanks to Yardog. I still have some fine tuning to do, like correcting the rear pinion angle, finishing the front uppers, getting rid of a billion washers, and eventually making long uppers as well, but it works ok for now. I cant figure out what is keeping it from flexing like I think it should. My first guess is the shocks, 9010's in the back need to go and eventually will be replaced with 9012's all around. Just got to figure out how to do it.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid21/pa0ea3ea49e7e185251c84f50d8361760/fdb728e2.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid21/p3616d77f96d604bdc4dd8d52b1a64610/fdb57499.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid21/p3866706f1b86592455a21d0d08266167/fdb57497.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid21/p3890b6d53d7b4e04b1f777b6eaf3e048/fdb728e7.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid21/p80d0799f5af783ae95122df50b6632c6/fdb728eb.jpg

Very cool. Could you itemize how much it cost. I'm going to have to do custom suspension for my XJ this summer.
Travis

The rod ends are XAM-10T Aurora rod ends from Spidertrax, heavy duty w/ 40k lb radius load rating. $42.25 each. The tube inserts were $6-$7. The 1026 DOM tubing is usually around $5 per foot. Then about $50 worth of grade 8 bolts and a couple feet of .250" wall square tube and thats about it. If you want just send me the measurements and I can make them for you.

No measurements 'till I the axles arrive in July. Still gotta decide on how far forward to move the front axle and how far rearward to move the rear axle. I'm goin' for @ 110" WB. I'll need all the clearance I can get. Damn 4-doors.

Keep in touch and let me know whenever. You will want to measure from center to center of the bolts where each end will mount, and then subtract 3.5". The rod ends are adjustable and have jamnuts to lock them in place. The welds are super beefy as well. All welds are first bevelled and preheated so the bead grabs in real good.

So I've heard that some joints can actually wear pretty quickly and then become a source of rattles. True? Also, 3.5". so each rod end is 1.75" center eye bolt to edge of link? How much thread does that leave going into the link?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tjChilipepper
[B]. I cant figure out what is keeping it from flexing like I think it should. My first guess is the shocks, 9010's in the back need to go and eventually will be replaced with 9012's all around. Just got to figure out how to do it.

Try disconnecting the shock to test this theory. They may be part of the problem but your use of heims at both ends isn't helping either. A 4 link will start binding when twisted too far and the heims are allowing zero compresion. Just ask the people running double flex Skyjacker kits about this.

Makes sense.

9012s were way too long for my tj with 6" springs. FYI, before you go spend $200+ on shocks and they don't work. The adapters make em too long up front (add about 1.5") and there isn't much room to make em fit in back either. The 9126 worked good on mine. You could just measure them and see if they are at full extension before you pull em off. Your 9010s should be at about 26.6" at full extension.

Here's the dea; on 9012 shocks. I made longer extentions to make them work in the front of my TJ. They will work on the front with mods. The rear is a different story, I tried every way from sunday to make them work in the rear. I just couldn't make them work. You don't need to run that long of a shock in the rear to get max flex for that kind of lift. I'm running 9010's I think, mounted to the front side of the axle, top kicked inward, amunting to a bar I mounted between the frame rails. I did add heim joints the the top and bottom of the shocks to really make them work right. I key is that you really don't need super long shocks, just mount them in the right location.

I dont think that running double heims is the problem. I think part of it may be shocks, and part of it may be that im running long lowers and stock uppers. I think thats the biggest part of the problem. Anyway, as you can see from my pics, its not even a big problem. Just something that I guess like a Jeep, is never done. Constantly building, adding, modifying, tweeking, and tuning.

No else mentioned this so here goes:

The frame mount on the rear arms look like rock catchers. I would have made the mount longer and angled it back, like you did on the rear side of the mount. then welded a plate over it to make it a slick ramp like surface to prevent it from getting hung up, or worse (like broke clear off...)

Otherwise it looks good.

Originally posted by rkcrawl
No else mentioned this so here goes:

The frame mount on the rear arms look like rock catchers. I would have made the mount longer and angled it back, like you did on the rear side of the mount. then welded a plate over it to make it a slick ramp like surface to prevent it from getting hung up, or worse (like broke clear off...)

Otherwise it looks good.

I agree rkcrawl. Now you should offer to weld the braces on my trailer this weekend so I can tow my extremely wide biatch around with the Tahoe that has a new rear window:D