Behind a 351 / T-18.

Between a HP44 and D70

Slung from a Yj frame

Under a Land Rover body

All sitting on 39.5 TSLs?

100"? 105"?

Opinoins, expereince??

B

an educated guess would be 99" if you just move the rear back 5". If you really want to move the front forward too, then i would say 105 at least. Either way i think you need to replace the gas tank, and go with a link-type suspension. Just a guess based on some friend's that have YJ's...

I am running the 203/205 "Doubler" in my fullsize Bronco and am sitting at 106". Plenty of driveshaft front and rear. :D

I just put a 203/205 in a CJ-7 that's 1" over stock wb. (94") I used ORD's kit and it's in conjunction with a Chevy 350 with a Turbo 350 trans. The rear driveshaft is 16" long but with my standard 9" Ford pinion it would have run at 30 degrees which even with a CV joint is too extreme an angle. This is with a SOA plus 2.5" and 38.5 SX's. To solve the problem I put a high pinion third member in it which got me to 18-19 degrees.Currie say's the high pinion is not compatible with the 38.5's. We'll see. After two outings I love the doubler but really haven't abused the setup yet. If the diff doesn't hold up then I'm pretty much resigned to moving the rearend back.

Saw a southern Range rover LWB frame for $300 on lrx.com 108in wheelbase all set up for coil springs.:flipoff2:

Same width as the old LR frames so easy to make work.

You know you don't want to use that POS yj frame.

Ron

PS sorry no help on the doubler.

Mine is 107 with a long front driveshaft and a short rear one. Good angles with 1410 joints though.

Tim.

Ron,

You're right...I know it in my heart. But I'm too stubborn, stupid, and cheap to listen.

Just to put it into perspective, this is what i have invested so far (and it has to be this low-buck or I can't afford to do it).

79 F250 (complete - donates 351, T18, NP 205, RC D44 front) $200

YJ frame and tub $100

D70 rear - free

So, a $300 US frame, shipped to me in Cdn $$ is goint to be at least $700 or more....which is more than twice what I have invested.

The $$ gotta be saved for 16.5 beadlocks and 39.5" TSL's
:)

Thanks for the inputs all, I think I'll shoot for 105"

weld the rear solid to the frame and run yoke to yoke, no shaft.

You could probably get away with like a 60" wb that way.

Flex is overrated:flipoff2:

For what its worth, I dont think that short wheelbase (arould 100") is all that its cracked up to be. If you are doing a doubler, then use a t-case that is twinstickable and rig up some cutting brakes. Long wheelbase rigs are really nice sometimes!:D

weld the rear solid to the frame and run yoke to yoke, no shaft.

Smeg-head :flipoff2: