I am helping out my cousin install 2 ARB's on his 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The truck is still stock and I believe has a Dana 30 upfront and Chrysler in the rear ( version of Jeep Cherokee sent to the Europe and Middle East ).

Any general guidelines you can share on the R&P calibration when installing the lockers ?
I had experience with locker on Rover adn Toy Diffs.
Thanks for the advice

Are you changing R/P or using existing?

Are you changing R/P or using existing?

No I am using existing.

It should be simple then. Measure the backlash before you take out the carrier and write em down. When you are done putting the ring gear and bearings on the ARB you will have to play with their shims a little to get the right pre-load on the bearings and match the amount of backlash you recorded earlier. Its pretty simple.

It should be simple then. Measure the backlash before you take out the carrier and write em down. When you are done putting the ring gear and bearings on the ARB you will have to play with their shims a little to get the right pre-load on the bearings and match the amount of backlash you recorded earlier. Its pretty simple.

Will I need additional shims ?

To measure the backlash you mean on the dial gauge....what about checking the pattern with the marking paint to be on the safe side.....

With lockers engaged where is the weak link on this set up with a heavy right foot ? ( Axles , Cv or R&P ( again Jeep Cherokke stock Dana 30 front and Chrysler rear )

Jay

start by grinding some weight off the heavy foot. best thing one can do with stock set up's.

not sure about your rear axle,
but i have been running a built up D30 (pre unit hub) arb, 4:10 and 35in tires.
with a amc 20 in the rear that has a detroit, fullfloat axles shafts,
no real problems other than exchaning the shafts never have lost axle shaft,
and yes i do hard rock crawling.

ARB gives you shims with the locker.

Yes, check backlash with dial indicator. you will not have to run a pattern since you are not moving the pinion at all. if carrier goes back in with same backlash, pattern will be exatly the same. so no need to look at it.

With the ARB in there, pretty much your shafts are what will most likely break. dana 30's can hold up fairly well if you drive with some sense. And I have never really heard much about the chrysler rears other then they are a little stronger than the dana 35.

ARB gives you shims with the locker.

Yes, check backlash with dial indicator. you will not have to run a pattern since you are not moving the pinion at all. if carrier goes back in with same backlash, pattern will be exatly the same. so no need to look at it.

With the ARB in there, pretty much your shafts are what will most likely break. dana 30's can hold up fairly well if you drive with some sense. And I have never really heard much about the chrysler rears other then they are a little stronger than the dana 35.

Thanks a lot !

start by grinding some weight off the heavy foot. best thing one can do with stock set up's.

... especially on pavement. Because ARB's are so bulky, they don't oil as well as a stock differential in certain circumstances. A friend was doing burn out with his new ARB (:shaking: ) He didn't have it engaged and only spun one tire. He ended up melting the spiders and ruining an ARB.

... especially on pavement. Because ARB's are so bulky, they don't oil as well as a stock differential in certain circumstances. A friend was doing burn out with his new ARB (:shaking: ) He didn't have it engaged and only spun one tire. He ended up melting the spiders and ruining an ARB.

WTF? Then he wasn't doing just one burn-out... he was one legging it all over the place. 'Course that will happen with any diff, get the spiders spinning fast enough and you push the oil right out from between the thrust washers. :shaking:

Tell him to get an engine with enough nuts to spin both tires and then lock it in. One legged burn outs are pretty lame.

... especially on pavement. Because ARB's are so bulky, they don't oil as well as a stock differential in certain circumstances. A friend was doing burn out with his new ARB (:shaking: ) He didn't have it engaged and only spun one tire. He ended up melting the spiders and ruining an ARB.

More likely then not it was a install problem I have seen often. Some ARB setups you will need to grind a return hole for the oil at the bottom of the carrier bearing journal. With out these the diff pushes all the oil into the tubes and it does not drain back fast enough. The spider gears in a ARB are made of 300M steel, not exactly the easiest thing to "melt", this is why they can take reverse shock better then any other locker on the market.

WTF? Then he wasn't doing just one burn-out... he was one legging it all over the place. 'Course that will happen with any diff, get the spiders spinning fast enough and you push the oil right out from between the thrust washers. :shaking:

Tell him to get an engine with enough nuts to spin both tires and then lock it in. One legged burn outs are pretty lame.

Hey, I'm with you. It wasn't a very good idea and he learned his lesson.

More likely then not it was a install problem I have seen often. Some ARB setups you will need to grind a return hole for the oil at the bottom of the carrier bearing journal. With out these the diff pushes all the oil into the tubes and it does not drain back fast enough. The spider gears in a ARB are made of 300M steel, not exactly the easiest thing to "melt", this is why they can take reverse shock better then any other locker on the market.

The guy that set up his axles knew exactly what he was doing. I won't speak to this specific install because I wasn't looking over his shoulder but the guy that did the work has been doing axles for 20+ years and 4x4 pretty much the whole time.

When I said melt above, I was regurgetating information that was passed to me. As it was explained to me, he "welded" the spiders together because of the "one wheel peel".

This is what I've learned from my experience. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT CARRIER PRELOAD.....it keeps the arb together. Mine exploded because the dumbass who built it (I bought the axle used w/ arb 4.88s and alloy shafts) didn't know what he was doing or the case flexed enough to lose some preload (I guess this isn't uncommon in the 30). All of the cap screws broke and left me needing 70 bucks of arb parts and an install kit. The ARB should come w/ large shims that go outside of the bearing on the air cylinder side. You use regular shims that go between the bearing and the carrier for the other side. I'm getting ready to put mine all back together and this is all stuff I've found from searching for hrs on how it goes together. If anyone who's actually installed on of these in an ARB has any corrections to this please post up because I'd like to get it put back together correctly.

This is what I've learned from my experience. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT CARRIER PRELOAD.....

x2 on this... Danas are not designed to have a slip fit carrier, you should use a case spreader if you do not have much diff experience.

There are lots of shops out there that have been in business for "Many years" or are "ASE cert" or "know what they are doing" and then we get the axle in our shop, pop the carrier caps and the diff falls out in your lap. What's even funnier is when we get them with an exploded diff that has expanded 20 or 30 thou. and it falls into your lap; that tells you it was real loose to begin with.


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