All right. I'm a newb or whatever yall call it, but here's my build so far on my xj. I'm not doin the build myself, a friend of mine is who is doing this kind of work on the side. Trying to get an offroad shop going. I'm helping him out whenever i can.

Posting this up cause i want some input. And i know that you guys will. Constructive criticism some say.

All right here is the jeep when i got it minus the cleanliness.

http://a870.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/00330/96/85/330445869_l.jpg

after the 4.5 RE lift.

http://myspace-506.vo.llnwd.net/01143/60/58/1143268506_l.jpg

Got the sucker in the carport with the d44 mocked up under it.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1180.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1183.jpg

Some 8 inch xj springs and 63 inch long chevys

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1195.jpg

The angle iron for frame stiffeners

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1197.jpg

cross member with frame stiffeners welded on

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1207.jpg

control arm mount and crossmember mount

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1260.jpg

coil buckets

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1259.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1258.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1257.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1256.jpg

front view

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1255.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1254.jpg

How does it look so far?

Looks good, except for the D44 + 38's part. :nuke:

:flipoff2:

edit: Also, why did you make the crossmember hang down so far?

Yea, either get stronger axle shafts and u-joints or go bigger. I'll eventually do something about that. You think the x-member is too low? hummm. oh well.

im doin a similar build, but with early bronco axles, so they are about stock width. and with a lot less lift and just 35s. lookin good though

vetteboy, you got pics of your xmember? im tryin to get more ideas for more high clearance xmembers for mine

wes

yea, i wanna check em out too.

You probably don't want to do what I did.

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/032407/DSC01617.JPG

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/031107/DSC01603.JPG

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/081706/sub5.JPG

But for something more reasonable...

http://shim1.shutterfly.com/procgserv/47b5d835b3127cce98548e3b70ba00000027108IbtGzVo3ba

or

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i273/Timmay822/CIMG8762Medium.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i273/Timmay822/CIMG9068Medium.jpg

i guess im just a lil confused on the trans mount deal.........is yours the stock style? i didnt think it was tucked up that high, maybe im smoking something though

wes

How did you get the radius arm mounts off? grinder? I was told that you would make the tube really weak if you do that.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_2.htm

About half way down it shows the mount cut up.

you sure that you only want 4 points distributing the loading of suspention, steering, stopping, and going when in 4 wheel drive?

(im talking about your 4 very close together bolts that hold the crossmember on)

seems to me like double layer 24 gauge in that area might not like that loading...

i know you re-enforced the frame rails, but you only welded to double layer 24 gauge... so what is really holding the 're-enforcements' to the body?

just food for thought...

You talking about the frame stiffeners? You dont think that the stiffeners are re-inforced enough?

I'm sorry i didnt see the ? mark at the end. the stiffeners or reinforcements are welded on. I'm actually thinking about drilling a hole through the frame rails and put a bolt through both ends. this should help also.

it was a retorical(sp?) question - aimed at getting you to think about what you just hung your front axle from... and how the forces on 4 point load (the bolts holding the xmember to the frame) were going to be distributed...

but you didnt get it...

How did you get the radius arm mounts off? grinder? I was told that you would make the tube really weak if you do that.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_2.htm

About half way down it shows the mount cut up.

Earlier ones used wedges that were just welded onto the axle tubes, rather than a whole cast piece between the knuckle and tube. Those are fine to remove.

i guess im just a lil confused on the trans mount deal.........is yours the stock style? i didnt think it was tucked up that high, maybe im smoking something though

wes

Drivetrain in mine is 4.0 -> NV4500 -> Np231 -> D300. Not too much in the way of stock mounts there. However in the last two pics, that setup uses the stock trans mount.

you sure that you only want 4 points distributing the loading of suspention, steering, stopping, and going when in 4 wheel drive?

(im talking about your 4 very close together bolts that hold the crossmember on)

I was wondering about that too...especially considering the number of bolts that hold my junk together. :laughing:

I'll find the pics tomorrow, but my first radius arm setup had 5 bolts on each side.

You talking about the frame stiffeners? You dont think that the stiffeners are re-inforced enough?

They probably are...but the bigger issue is that you've localized all the stress that XJ_Ranger mentioned at a very small spot. If you spread the load out a bit more it would probably be more effective.

That's what all the unibody bracing is about, anyway. Spreading the load throughout the whole thing so you don't have localized stress cracks. What you've done there is a great start for stiffening it but I would maybe spread the crossmember loading over a greater area.

hey it looks good so far.

I see what you are saying. I'll do something about that then. spreading the load of the x-member. Thanks for the info. keep them coming

Vetteboy what year 44s are like that?

Vetteboy what year 44s are like that?

I know 76 is for sure not sure if 75 was similar or not.

You can always get a 78-79 F250 D44, same thing but with 8 lug outers. It has the leaf mounts but it doenst have the cast sections.

That license plate makes your rig sooo much more hardcore :shaking:

Dont be hatin

.......i know you re-enforced the frame rails, but you only welded to double layer 24 gauge... so what is really holding the 're-enforcements' to the body?

just food for thought...

blah blah blah. this setup was all the rage on Naxja for many many years. everyone and their mother has done their radius arms this way and you're going to question it now? talk about late to the party. :laughing:

What do you think of the setup that i have vintagespeed?

blah blah blah. this setup was all the rage on Naxja for many many years. everyone and their mother has done their radius arms this way and you're going to question it now? talk about late to the party. :laughing:

I know better than to argue with you on the internet... you'll just blame Avery for what I say...

You probably don't want to do what I did.

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/032407/DSC01617.JPG

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/031107/DSC01603.JPG

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/081706/sub5.JPG

But for something more reasonable...

http://shim1.shutterfly.com/procgserv/47b5d835b3127cce98548e3b70ba00000027108IbtGzVo3ba

or

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i273/Timmay822/CIMG8762Medium.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i273/Timmay822/CIMG9068Medium.jpg


I take it the front 3 link is the latest set-up and the radius arm set-up was the old one? How do they compare performance wise?

got bolts?

I take it the front 3 link is the latest set-up and the radius arm set-up was the old one? How do they compare performance wise?

Neither of those are my radius arm setup...in fact I posted those as a way to implement the standard radius arm kinda thing a little bit better. My radius arm setup hung way low and it worked well, aside from the clearance issue...

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/la/lafinal%20015.jpg

The new one...as you can see was basically an entire redesign of the whole chassis. It works absolutely awesome so far, and I have no complaints at all about the setup. The amount of travel exceeds what I can do with the shocks and u-joints, and so far the braking and torque have been pretty neutral.

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/031107/DSC01589.JPG

First big trail ride is happening in two weeks so I'll have some better input then...but from all the testing so far I can say that I'd never go back to the radius arms.

got bolts?

Yeah, there's a few. :flipoff2: We'll see how it holds up.

Your tube bridge over the diff seems high, to me. I'd be sure you have adequate clearance for other parts you have yet to build, like track bar mounts, driver's side UCA axle mount (I assume your bridge is to mount the UCA to). If your even considering high steer, things get very tight. I know when I flex my driver's side up, my track bar and tie rod almost lay flat across my bridge, and it's flat against the top of the diff. My track bar frame mount also comes within 1/2" of hitting it as well.
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/1697/trkbarframedk4.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trkbarframedk4.jpg)

All right. What if i did something like this?

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/crossmember.jpg
All i had was paintshop.

Would that work?

Yeah, I think it would work (as long as the guss. was thick enough on both sides). I wouldn't bolt it on the CM, just weld it. It's less work :D

vetteboy79- I saw where ur CM is cut out for TC, just wondering if it is bolted into it? Cant tell, but I like it.

to the top

Vetteboy - What were the clearance issues on that 3-link setup with the upper? Or were there any? I'm thinking of doing that design there or going with the Radius Arm design that Timmay has done on his.

I'm a little skeptical of the Radius arm design for two reasons, one is the pinion angle throughout the range of motion, and the second is the upper mounting to the lower and the torque that is applied by it, twisting the joints at both ends of the lower. The standard 3 link parrallel design would eliminate both of these concerns but I wasn't too sure on the clearance issues assosciated.

blah blah blah. this setup was all the rage on Naxja for many many years. everyone and their mother has done their radius arms this way and you're going to question it now? talk about late to the party. :laughing:


Yeah right, Jimbo. :flipoff2:

I poked fun of these setups for years on NAXJA, no reason I shouldn't do it here, too. :D

It might not be an issue if all you run is mud, but if you run rocks and trails then the crossmember and long arm mounts hanging down lower the ground clearance and breakover angle, so no net gain in trail performance is achieved with the suspension changes. It's good to decrease the angle of the control arms, but to get better performance it's best to figure out how to do it without also lower ground clearance. A number of those on NAXJA that Jim is refering to later reworked the crossmember and mounts to get better clearance.

Stock Spicer axles and 38's don't go well together. Since you can get 760x axle joints in a D30, you don't get much additional strength out a D44 unless you put chromo shafts and aftermarket u-joints in it. The yokes on those Spicer shafts will break as easily as those on a D30. Axle shaft upgrades might already be in your plans, but I didn't see anything about them.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1254.jpg

Looking at this pic tells me you might run into an issue with the driver's side coil mount. I didn't read all the posts so I don't know if it's been pointed out or not yet but...

When that coil gets weight on it it's going to compress and hit the bridge tube running through the mount. Get what I mean? The bridge is going to push the coil towards the driver's side because the second wrap will compress into it.

Sorry for the short reply, i'm running out the door, lemme know if you need clarification. Other than that it looks pretty good.

Vetteboy - What were the clearance issues on that 3-link setup with the upper? Or were there any? I'm thinking of doing that design there or going with the Radius Arm design that Timmay has done on his.

Clearance issues? :laughing:

I'm honestly not the one to ask for that. I had gobs of clearance because I moved the transfer case to the other side. That, and I pretty much just cut the floor to fit whatever I wanted to do underneath it. However the upper link as I ran it required no special clearance at all, aside from having the D300 non-flipped and passenger-side drop.

Yea goatman, i'm planning on upgrading the d44 in the near future.

Timmay, i see what you mean. We're probably gonna tweak the buckets a little bit anyways and see if that does fix the problem.


Thanks for the info.

Yea I can really only wait until the Jeep is on jackstands to determine if I can roll with that setup or not. I don't really mind running the Radius arm setup, since I know it will work, but I'd rather do it right the first time for sure.

Although 1/4 ton to 1 ton is a big enough jump in itself ;)

i wouldnt exactly call a d44 'one ton'

but anyway. looking good so far. one question: how do you plan on keeping those coils on top of the mount? im in the middle of making some coil mounts for my axle swap and am wonderin whats the best way to do that.

I never called a d44 a "one" ton

I never called a d44 a "one" ton
No. He did.

Yea I can really only wait until the Jeep is on jackstands to determine if I can roll with that setup or not. I don't really mind running the Radius arm setup, since I know it will work, but I'd rather do it right the first time for sure.

Although 1/4 ton to 1 ton is a big enough jump in itself ;)

a d44 is a 3/4 ton. is it not?

a d44 is a 3/4 ton. is it not?

1/2 or 3/4 ton yes. One ton as HE (not you) stated....no.

yes, a f250 8lug dana 44 is 3/4 ton..... but a f150/bronco 5 lug dana 44 is considered 1/2 ton

just and FYI.

anyway, what about my question on them coil mounts.....:D

Oh sorry, didnt see your post there. gonna be clamping them down. have a straight piece of metal long enough for the diameter of the coils and put a bolt in the middle of the bucket.

Yea I was referring to my build, not his (D60/14bolt). Sorry for the thread jack :)

vetteboy79- I saw where ur CM is cut out for TC, just wondering if it is bolted into it? Cant tell, but I like it.

Bolted into it... :confused:

Try again?

A few more pics, just to keep this thread on top,

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1262.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1264.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/DSCN1265.jpg

Still got alot more to do.

Dual radius arm uppers with panhard, looks BIG. What size tires are those on how many inches of lift?

38's and about 10 inches of lift i'm guessing

You doing something about the axle side tracbar? Single sheer standard bolt.

You doing something about the axle side tracbar? Single sheer standard bolt.

x2, that is just dangerous

why not just run a straight track bar. i've pretzeltd that exact one with similar modification on my buggied ZJ on 38's with the 4.0L

and when it pretzeld it took otu the oil pan.

Kraga

I did the same thing but was lucky that it didnt take anything out.

If I were you I would move the mount higher and make it a strait bar. And i would have the bolt be going through two surfaces like the other guys were trying to tell you. Single sheer standard bolt is not the best idea in the world.

If your not sure its going to hold up, its probably not.

bump for updates

Ok, i see what you guys are saying. Could anyone take a pic of what they did to their tracbar?

here's mine:

straight, double sheer, and no binding.

Matthew

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/242000-242999/242380_405_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/242000-242999/242380_404_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/242000-242999/242380_403_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/242000-242999/242380_402_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/242000-242999/242380_423_full.jpg

Mine...works great.

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/122406/DSC01131.JPG

Dunno how much of that is useful in your case though.

How bout on the body side, just got a bolt and heim joint there.

How bout on the body side, just got a bolt and heim joint there.

look at the pics above. i just modified the stock bracket to be double sheer and the bolt run horizontal not vertical.

matthew

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/242000-242999/242380_403_full.jpg

33 bucks at JKS will get you the piece to weld on the bottom of your existing trackbar bracket.
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAB_920_925&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

that's what I planon doing with y RE1600 bar, and just flip the rod end vertical rather than horizontal.

Tech to the top BS to the bottom...

33 bucks at JKS will get you the piece to weld on the bottom of your existing trackbar bracket.
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAB_920_925&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

that's what I planon doing with y RE1600 bar, and just flip the rod end vertical rather than horizontal.

I made my own for my RE trackbar. I dont remember exactly what size sq. tubing I used now but I think it was 2.5" x .188 wall. Welded it to the bottom of the stock TB mount & added some gusseting.

Well, it's been awhile but finally got all 4 tires on. Still got alot to do.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/100_0030.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/100_0027.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/100_0026.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/100_0025.jpg

How is your bumper mounted to the unibody???

lookin good, its gonna be badass!:smokin:

Well for right now its just mounted in the stock locations. But no way thats gonna hold up. Gonna run a plate down the unibody to beef it up more.

So what advantage do the longer springs give you that's worth having an awful departure angle? I'd destroy those shackles and springs before even getting to the big stuff...

Well for right now its just mounted in the stock locations. But no way thats gonna hold up. Gonna run a plate down the unibody to beef it up more.

Those 8 bolts are not enough to hold the vehicle's weight. Looks like your rear bumper has already bent up from sitting like that. Its going to take alot more than a "plate to the unibody" to tie that bumper in correctly. I suggest you take a look at how some other threads to see how to strengthen the rear of that truck.

So what advantage do the longer springs give you that's worth having an awful departure angle? I'd destroy those shackles and springs before even getting to the big stuff...

Well, then it'll give me an excuse to coil it later down the road.

Those 8 bolts are not enough to hold the vehicle's weight. Looks like your rear bumper has already bent up from sitting like that. Its going to take alot more than a "plate to the unibody" to tie that bumper in correctly. I suggest you take a look at how some other threads to see how to strengthen the rear of that truck.

FWIW, here's how I reinforced the back of mine. I'm not hanging shackles from it but I do have recovery points hooked in.

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/041407/DSC01646.JPG

The angle iron goes all the way up to the front coil mounts, and the flat plate on the rear is drilled for 1/2" bolts to hold the bumper on, and also serves as the rear cage tie-in. On the inside of the frame rail is another piece of angle to cover the other two holes per side.

I've done a bunch of hard pulls with it so far and it has held up great.

Nice, very nice. Thanks for the info.

With the shackles like that and the long leafs, your going to have alot of droop. I hope you have figured that in when you thought of your rear driveshaft design. Your going to need limit straps for sure :eek:

Here she is.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/Picture012.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/Picture024.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2010.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2011.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2012.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2013.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2015.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2016.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2017.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2018.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2019.jpg
All done and loading up.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2022.jpg
All loaded up and ready to leave.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/jonnyjpr/HarlanDay2026.jpg

what is that huge truck behind your Jeep?

That is what used to be a toyota pickup.
2 1/2 ton front rockwells. duel cases. cummins 4bt engine. 52 in tires. That thing is freakin badass.

How did you support the shackles?

Whatta you mean support the shackles? They are attached to the rear bumper with a boomerang type of shackle.

Like your build and XJ with the exception of the rear shackles.

It is surprisingly capable. Next thing on my list would probably be to put coilovers in the rear, Those shackles do stick out quite a bit. I'd agree with you there. But so far, it does great on the trail.

no front recovery?

Please tell me you fixed the single sheer trackbar mount and the crossmember only being held on by 4 bolts.

Whatta you mean support the shackles? They are attached to the rear bumper with a boomerang type of shackle.

Read your own thread. If you are using the stock 8 bolts in the bumper hold the rear axle it will tear out. IT was mentioned that you should fix this. Did you? Also with no front recovery when the axle does fall out nobody will be able to pull you out.