we will start with your typical AR evil black rifle. It is the black Barbie doll of the rifle world. You can dress it up for a night out on the town or a weekend in the woods camping :D And EVERYTHING can be attached to this weapon in some form :flipoff2: But humor aside, the AR is a very nice building platform. You can build anything from a plinker to a full on target destroyer. You can get an upper receiver in just about any caliber from .22 to .50BMG.

This build is from your basic bare lower and a mail order assembled and headspaced upper. Later more complicated builds and assembling your own upper will be added as needed.

assembling your lower is pretty much the....umm..."hard part" :laughing: but here is that part.
This is the inside parts.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296964&stc=1&d=1175825733
This way you know what the fuck these little parts are.

and your pile of shit
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296965&stc=1&d=1175825733

The only "tools" I am using are common shit you should have in the house. A pair of robogrip pliers, a brass hammer, a brass drift and a flathead screwdriver. You can improvise most of these tools.

First we put in the magazine release
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296966&stc=1&d=1175825733

stick it in the lower receiver
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296967&stc=1&d=1175825733

and drop the spring on the threaded post
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296968&stc=1&d=1175825733

now screw the button on a few threads
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296971&stc=1&d=1175826643

next use something to push the button INSIDE the receiver so you can twirl around the magazine catch to tighten it
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296972&stc=1&d=1175826643

and tighten till the screw is flush with the button
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296973&stc=1&d=1175826643

next is the trigger guard.
stick the roll pin in the front hole
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296974&stc=1&d=1175826643

put some paper or some shit on the other side and use pliers to push till it just sticks through
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296975&stc=1&d=1175826643

next stick the trigger guard in place and make sure the little detent nub thingie is on the right side/place
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296981&stc=1&d=1175827184

and press the roll pin the rest of the way through
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296982&stc=1&d=1175827184

and lock in place
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296983&stc=1&d=1175827184


next is the bolt hold lever
this is the detent thing and spring
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296984&stc=1&d=1175827184

and drop in place
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296985&stc=1&d=1175827184

next install the roll pin. some tape will keep you from fucking up the receiver with the brass hammer. the brass wipes of anyway.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296991&stc=1&d=1175827643

tap the pin till it just pokes through
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296992&stc=1&d=1175827643

and drive it the rest of the way with the lever in place
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296994&stc=1&d=1175827643

next is the detents and springs for the front pin. "supposedly" the hardest parts to do :rolleyes: :flipoff2:
It goes in this hole in front
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296995&stc=1&d=1175827643

this is how you do it:
Drop the spring in the hole, hold the receiver between your legs, with your right fingers put the brass pin on the spring and get in just in the hole, with your left fingernail push it the rest of the way in and hold it, now with the right hand stick the front pin aimed at the hole it goes and place it ON your finger nail, pull away nail and insert dowel with the "channel" in it away from the spring/pin till you get it in the hole like this
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296996&stc=1&d=1175827683
you could also use a knife blade instead of your fingernail

and rotate it around till it "clicks"
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296997&stc=1&d=1175828422


next is the fire control group

trigger spring goes on like this
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296998&stc=1&d=1175828422

disconector with its little spring like this
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296999&stc=1&d=1175828422

hammer spring like
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297000&stc=1&d=1175828422

and you well.....line the fuckers up to their corresponding holes and stick the fucking pin through :laughing:

safe lever goes in here with the hammer cocked back
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297001&stc=1&d=1175828422

this funny shaped pin is the one for the selector
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297005&stc=1&d=1175828775

the pin goes in the hole in the reciever and the spring goes in the grip
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297006&stc=1&d=1175828775

next is the rear pin detent and the buffer tube/stock

the pin goes here, stick the rear pin in first
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297007&stc=1&d=1175828775
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297008&stc=1&d=1175828775

next the spring
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297009&stc=1&d=1175828775

buffer retainer and spring goes in here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297015&stc=1&d=1175829111

press the detent spring in with whatever plate/stock/whatever you are using
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297016&stc=1&d=1175829111

and screw the buffer tube in till it locks in the buffer retainer.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297017&stc=1&d=1175829111

and lock your shit in place with however your shit is supposed to be locked in :laughing:

insert your buffer and spring and you are done
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297018&stc=1&d=1175829111


Questions? Comments?
oh and add more shit to the thread as needed

Very similar to the thread on AR15.com. The way I got the pivot pin spring and detent was a friend and a knife. Worked well, we only launched the detent once. :D

Very similar to the thread on AR15.com.

they used things like ".125 steel punches" and shit like that, instead of "a pair of fucking craftsman RoboGrip pliers" I bet :flipoff2:

Nice write-up. Right to the point, no fucking around :D

I have the same stock on my SBR and I love it.

oh and before the question is even asked:
DPMS receiver $125
ACE SOCOM stock $150
DoubleStar upper and lower parts kit $500
Ergo grip $20

The upper is a 16" chrome lined fluted heavy barrel chambered in 5.56NATO with a flat top upper.

Yes this weapon can be built for less, and a "generic" AR can be built for a LOT less. But go and price a decent built weapon to what you want to build and you will see the price difference immediately :eek:

Good post doc. It is not very hard to build a AR, it should not take anyone more than an houre to assemble a lower.

Good post doc. It is not very hard to build a AR, it should not take anyone more than an houre to assemble a lower.

It took me less than that while photographing and cooking dinner :laughing: It took longer to resize the images and do all the typing. :flipoff2:

they used things like ".125 steel punches" and shit like that, instead of "a pair of fucking craftsman RoboGrip pliers" I bet :flipoff2:

Thats exactly what they do. I read their thread and it was like 4 post long just to get the lower parts put on

What kind of retard can't build an AR?!?! They're like Legos for gun nuts. :flipoff2: :D

What kind of retard can't build an AR?!?! They're like Legos for gun nuts. :flipoff2: :D
True story.

Very similar to the thread on AR15.com.

Yeah except umm, uhh...

Oh yeah, not gay.

What kind of retard can't build an AR?!?! They're like Legos for gun nuts. :flipoff2: :D

But we still needed a "How to" thread so we can put our custom uppers and carbine builds in it as well :flipoff2:


Oh yeah, not gay.

This forum will be a "ghey free" zone as much as possible. People of alternative sexuality are welcome, but any guns or threads of questionable sexuality will not survive. :evil:

This forum will be a "ghey free" zone as much as possible.

Phew!!

I was dreading opening this up and seeing a photo of the carbine on yer ass

Phew!!

I was dreading opening this up and seeing a photo of the carbine on yer ass

don't make me do that again :laughing:
Bev is going to have a LOT of guns to model when she gets back :evil:

Now we will get into uppers. shit on how to swap a barrel or install a full floating handguard. you WILL need specialized tools for it. a armorers wrench and a receiver action block would be a good start.
used a barrel vice3 and it turned to suck with my heavy barrel so I just clamped the bitch with some aluminum jaws. whooopty fucking do, so I have some aluminum marks on my barrel :flipoff2:
well lets get to the taking apart.

Take off the muzzle brake/flash hider if so equipped. Its "normal" threaded, everything on an AR is.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298138&stc=1&d=1176345820

Next knock out the roll pin in the gas block that holds the gas tube in
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298139&stc=1&d=1176345820

Wiggle the gas tube out of the gas block, you may need to CAREFULLY move it wit some pliers. Dont worry if you dick it up, they are cheap.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298140&stc=1&d=1176345820

push it to the side of the gas block and pull it out of the upper receiver
Here is you tube
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298141&stc=1&d=1176345820

Next drift out the gas block pins. They are "usually" tapered and drift from left to right. Check to make sure the right side is bigger or just say fuck it and whack away.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298142&stc=1&d=1176345820

Next use a deadblow hammer or a brass one and tap the gas block off.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298145&stc=1&d=1176346486

ewwwwwwwww nasty shit :laughing: naa just some assembly grease
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298146&stc=1&d=1176346486

next use your armorers tool to take the barrel nut off. see the pins and where they fit
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298147&stc=1&d=1176346486

This is where a receiver action block would have come in handy. The barrel vice actualy could not hold the shit in place. It takes some oomph to loosen a new one or a corroded one.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298148&stc=1&d=1176346486

I said fuck it and just clamped the bitch :laughing: the fluting held it nice :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298149&stc=1&d=1176346486

to install a new barrel would be the reverse of what we just did after pulling out the barrel. It comes right out.
This is the barrel nut with delta ring and spring.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298151&stc=1&d=1176346886
BUT we are installing a full sized full floating handguard on a CAR style gas system and requires some work :D

This is the new barrel nut for the full floating handguard. it just slides on the barrel.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298152&stc=1&d=1176346886

put some molly grease on the threads to prevent galling and corrosion
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298153&stc=1&d=1176346886

aaaaaand screw that bitch on
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298154&stc=1&d=1176346886

The nut needs to be torqued to like 80ftlbs and then loosened and then done 2 more times and scratch your nuts while paying homage to Mr. Stoner :rolleyes:
Important parts: must be tight, must have the gas tube hole lined up.

Thats all I give a fuck about really :laughing: I tightened the bitch to "tight" with the armorers wrench and then cranked the bitch till a hole lined up to pass the tube through.
Like so
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298155&stc=1&d=1176346886

Next I hacked down the gas block to the bare minimum to work. This will fit under the handguard.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298158&stc=1&d=1176347581

Reinstalled the pins and shit and everything back together
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298159&stc=1&d=1176347581

after screwing on the handguard I went and slid on my NEW "gas block". This one is only for mounting the front sight and maybe a light or some shit. Note the very small amount of "tacticoooool" rail on this weapon :laughing:
I put a front sight on the block and lined it up with a rear sight then tightened the set screws.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298160&stc=1&d=1176347581

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298161&stc=1&d=1176347581

I screwed back on my muzzle brake and was done....for now :evil:

Good writeup, I might put it to good use shortly. :grinpimp:

I will take it all apart soon after I function test it. I will drill the fuck out of that front gas block and same with the top of the handguard. There is WAY too much material on both and could use to be lightened. I will duracoat it all black :evil: Maybe a vortex flash hider..or someones anyway

DPMS lower, DoubleStar upper 16" fluted heavy barrel chrome lined and 5.56. DPMS handguard, DPMS gas block, Brownells front flipup sight, "some shitty ebay special" rear sight, Aimpoint CompM, soon to be tested.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298164&stc=1&d=1176348034
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298163&stc=1&d=1176348034
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298162&stc=1&d=1176347581

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297018&stc=1&d=1175829111


Questions? Comments?
oh and add more shit to the thread as needed

you always have extra parts at the end???:flipoff2:

you always have extra parts at the end???:flipoff2:

:laughing: no. J&T/DoubleStar seemed to include extra of the most commonly "launched" springs/parts :flipoff2:

Why did you go with the full length floater?

Why did you go with the full length floater?

gives a longer distance between the sights for a better sight radius.
give more "safe" area to grab with a hot barrel and more area to rest on a bag.
makes people look at it funny :flipoff2: it does not look as short as it is.

I think it looks cool as fuck :evil: it will look even better once I drill out that gas block and the top of the full floater tube.

The rifle length handguards look pimp on a 16"er. I did that to my rifle and am quite happy with it.

Is there any of the upper to lower slop? Or did you do something/add something to fix it?

Is there any of the upper to lower slop? Or did you do something/add something to fix it?
very very little, but this is common with AR's anyway. If it annoys me it can be taken up with an Accuwedge.

the top of the full floater tube.

You thinking of doing holes or slots on the handguard.

very very little, but this is common with AR's anyway. If it annoys me it can be taken up with an Accuwedge.

Yeah, I was just wondering if it was way better than my current bushmaster, or if you still might use the wedge. It doesn't bother me what little there is.

You thinking of doing holes or slots on the handguard.

holes.

I don't have oval shaped drill bits :flipoff2:

I am figureing a nice pattern with diffrent sized holes.
If I finish the shit I need to tonight I will do it and post pics

I vote for milling the flutes out into full on slots...

I vote for milling the flutes out into full on slots...

toooooo late :flipoff2:

holes.

I don't have oval shaped drill bits :flipoff2:



I said slots. Two holes and then the dremel.
__
O__O

Drilled the handguard and the gas block out :D
I think it came out fucking pimp. I sprayed it with duracoat but added too much hardener so it came out sorta glossy but I do not care as the entire gun will be sprayed at one time once it is fired. The handguard does not index perfectly but i dont give a fuck :laughing: the holes are not "perfect" but once again....no fuck to be seen ANYWHERE around here :flipoff2:

I concur, that's pimp as fuck...even if you don't give one to begin with!

My DPMS seems to have much less slop than typical ARs which is nice. USMCDOC throw a timney dropin trigger in there and its like heaven, maybe a little light for a brush gun but they are fucking sweet. I need to buy another for my AR pistol so I can bump fire my beta-c, you know for the ladies.

what no "wow, doc, that looks like shit" or "you gonna strain some pasta in that" :flipoff2:

what no "wow, doc, that looks like shit" or "you gonna strain some pasta in that" :flipoff2:

I think it looks cool, but thats alot of work. I would get half way done and fuck up and have to throw it away.

what no "wow, doc, that looks like shit" or "you gonna strain some pasta in that" :flipoff2:

You gunna bolt some of them thar rails on yer noodle strainer whatchamahoogie?

You gunna bolt some of them thar rails on yer noodle strainer whatchamahoogie?

no, the end

:laughing:

I may put a 3" one on the bottom for a bipod mount if I wanna use it for like....never mind I just use a fucking ammo can or a sand bag :flipoff2:

Or thread it for a sling stud.

you can tell she is gone, he is making holes in everything.


fucking pimp, I tells ya, fucking pimp.

Or thread it for a sling stud.

whatcyoutalkinbout...doc is a stud!!!



:flipoff2:

Or thread it for a sling stud.

maybe. I kinda like just a single point.
next it needs a cheap flipup rear sight (but I can only find a few that are adjustable for elevation) and a new flash hider.

what no "wow, doc, that looks like shit" or "you gonna strain some pasta in that" :flipoff2:

I was thinking more along the lines of a cheese grater myself... :shrug:






























looks good mang :flipoff2:

Doc, did you get your upper as a complete from J&T? reason i ask is i don't see anything like yours listed on their site

Doc, did you get your upper as a complete from J&T? reason i ask is i don't see anything like yours listed on their site

yes. It is thier "Light wieght tactical" kit. There is a bunch of options you can change with that kit as well but it is basicly a fluted HB, CAR style handguard and sight radius

yes. It is thier "Light wieght tactical" kit. There is a bunch of options you can change with that kit as well but it is basicly a fluted HB, CAR style handguard and sight radius

ok. i saw that one but it didn't specify chrome-lined. guess you can't believe everything you read on the internet :eek:

ok. i saw that one but it didn't specify chrome-lined. guess you can't believe everything you read on the internet :eek:

tell them chome lined, its an extra $50. The "Tactical lightwieght" shown in the catalog is $529 comes with a colapsable stock and a regular top upper but they will put a flattop one on for no extra charge.
The one online has a "shorty" regular stock on it but the catalog one has the colaspable stock.
http://jtdistributing.com/pdf/cat06.pdf page 14

tell them chome lined, its an extra $50. The "Tactical lightwieght" shown in the catalog is $529 comes with a colapsable stock and a regular top upper but they will put a flattop one on for no extra charge.
The one online has a "shorty" regular stock on it but the catalog one has the colaspable stock.
http://jtdistributing.com/pdf/cat06.pdf page 14

thanks. i downloaded the pdf after your first reply

So where do you guys get most of your accessories? I have a buddy, we will call him Kevin, that is looking for some stuff.

1. Scope mount to go over a carry handle. I saw one of these yesterday and didn't pay close enough attention at the time as to where I saw it. Was a small scope mount with a red dot sight mounted over the carry handle on an A3 what made it cool was that you could still use the open sights underneath!

2. Rail mount front sight...like the one doc shows on his.

3. Forward pistol grip.

4. Rail mount bipod.

5. Vice block

He is looking for inexpensive versions of all these ;)

So where do you guys get most of your accessories? I have a buddy, we will call him Kevin, that is looking for some stuff.

1. Scope mount to go over a carry handle. I saw one of these yesterday and didn't pay close enough attention at the time as to where I saw it. Was a small scope mount with a red dot sight mounted over the carry handle on an A3 what made it cool was that you could still use the open sights underneath!

2. Rail mount front sight...like the one doc shows on his.

3. Forward pistol grip.

4. Rail mount bipod.

5. Vice block

He is looking for inexpensive versions of all these ;)

1) any gun show or ebay
2) got mine at brownells, you can get them anywhere just search "flip sight, flipup sight, or BUIS" be warry as the ones on ebay can be for airsoft. some will work fine on a "real" gun but some will be a turd
3) :laughing: your "friend" has no been using google has he
4) google bitch
5) brownells or midway usa

Got bored and annoyed with the big ass knob of death that is on the factory Aimpoint mount. So I used a Mt. Bike locking lever and some ingenuity.
cost like $5

My "friend" got overwhelmed at all the fawkin places out there that sell crap and was hoping you could help him discover a reliable, inexpensive site for one stop shopping :flipoff2: ;)

My "friend" got overwhelmed at all the fawkin places out there that sell crap and was hoping you could help him discover a reliable, inexpensive site for one stop shopping :flipoff2: ;)

http://www.jtdistributing.com/
http://www.model1sales.com/
http://www.m-aparts.com/
www.brownells.com
www.midwayusa.com
www.google.com

:flipoff2:

Got bored and annoyed with the big ass knob of death that is on the factory Aimpoint mount. So I used a Mt. Bike locking lever and some ingenuity.
cost like $5

Same way you modded the eotech?

Same way you modded the eotech?
Similar, the aimpoint base has a "stud" that the big knob screws onto. The eotech had a screw that screwed into the base. This required no effort, the center thing on the bike lever actualy screwed right on the stud for the aimpoint base :laughing: so all i did was cut the stud short and cut an inch off the end of the lever. But ya, its basically the same as the eotech

Muchos grassy ass

Poor man's accucam, very nice.

Poor man's accucam, very nice.

if you search you can find the one i did for my Aimpoint as well. That one requried only a tiny bit more effort. I am a cheap bastard :laughing:

next install the roll pin. some tape will keep you from fucking up the receiver with the brass hammer. the brass wipes of anyway.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296991&stc=1&d=1175827643

tap the pin till it just pokes through
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296992&stc=1&d=1175827643

and drive it the rest of the way with the lever in place
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=296994&stc=1&d=1175827643



or just use the fawking robo grips like you did on the trigger gaurd. Just put some duct tape on the to protect the finish on the lower, thats what I did.

Range report:
Put 90 rounds threw it on sat and I need to slap a scope on the bitch just to see what it can do because with the aimpoint it was pretty balls on. :D

One double feed or something but I had someone else firing it so I could not tell the cause. I will put more downrange when I get back from this Op.

ok people, black or OD green and black like my FAL?

O.D. and black

Black ;)

Sweet I don't shoot to many semi autos since I shoot lefty. I just saw an ad for a left hand upper in the shotgun news I may have to think hard about building one!

Sweet I don't shoot to many semi autos since I shoot lefty. I just saw an ad for a left hand upper in the shotgun news I may have to think hard about building one!
yup. Stag Arms, they look like some good shit.

ok now back on my colors :D what about a green upper/lowe that fades into black stock/handguard like this:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=279454&stc=1&d=1167348113
:grinpimp:

Doc...how'd you do the mags? That's badass.

And what, exactly, do you do for the military? :D

Doc...how'd you do the mags? That's badass.

And what, exactly, do you do for the military? :D

mags were done with a stencil and duracoat and some skill :flipoff2:

I am a Navy corpsman :laughing: (USMC "Doc") attached to a Boat team. My "normal" job is to like fix people and shit :flipoff2:

My "normal" job is to like fix people and shit :flipoff2:

Do you at least wash your hands if you decide to swap things up and shit then fix people?

Do you at least wash your hands if you decide to swap things up and shit then fix people?

No. It causes job security :evil:

I have no skill with duracoat. I'll buy some mags from you like that. :)

I have no skill with duracoat. I'll buy some mags from you like that. :)

Later. Selling magazines is like item 9 in my list of shit that needs to be done :laughing:

I want some too if it moves to top 3 :laughing: Along with your ccw holster :smokin:

ooooooooh. "ghost" zombie skulls on the AR :evil: photos in an hour or so.

an hour is up.

an hour is up.

soooooooory :flipoff2: I had to put it back together :laughing:
I gave the skulls a slight "fade" to ghost them as they did not look "right" with a hard edge.

I fucking like it and I don't give a fuck :laughing:

you should start selling that stuff over on arf. you could retire.

That looks :smokin:

Cap it off with a flash hider and it'll look even better. Did you figure out which one you're going to use?

you should start selling that stuff over on arf. you could retire.

It would take like 2 days of dealing with idiots in the EE before I was banned :laughing:
On a side note, you ever notice how everyone thinks the shit they are selling is gold or something?

Cap it off with a flash hider and it'll look even better. Did you figure out which one you're going to use?

I am going to go with the Phantom, now with the paint it looks "aggressive" and not as "organic" as it did all black.... yes I am figuring the looks of my fucking AR :flipoff2: seeing as I am the one who has to look at it all the time :laughing:

Do a write-up on the skulls! :D

Do a write-up on the skulls! :D

its just airbrushing 101 :laughing: stencils and go to town.
Hell, if the colors are available you can paint a fucking Bob Ross style landscape on the side :flipoff2:

Dude, that is probably the sickest AR I have ever seen. :beer:

Dude, that is probably the sickest AR I have ever seen. :beer:

don't jump the gun yet, its not finished :laughing:


and I still have another receiver :flipoff2:

its just airbrushing 101 :laughing: stencils and go to town.
Hell, if the colors are available you can paint a fucking Bob Ross style landscape on the side :flipoff2:


"...and right here we'll put a happy little tree, next to the mag release...."

:laughing:

well do a damn write-up on airbrushing. I've never airbrushed before...any chance I can do some skulls like that? :D

airbrushing is fancy spray paint. and as for the skulls, all you have to do is find the stencil.

well do a damn write-up on airbrushing. I've never airbrushed before...any chance I can do some skulls like that? :D

I am NOT doing a writeup on airbrushing :laughing: go to Borders/Barn&Nobels, get a coffee, go to the "art" section, pick up books on airbrushing for idiots, drink coffee, read books, put books back.
go to harbor freight, get $10 airbrush and $5 regulator, practice in garage :flipoff2:

tips: move-spray-stop spraying-keep moving, "powdery"= to far away, "streaking" = too close, ALWAYS wear exam gloves

Duracoat non-diluted sprays from a harbor fright cheap ass brush at 60psi with the needle full open being 6" or so from the surface


stencils: make your own, go to a hobby center in the "R/C" section or order on line. too high a PSI will make them lift, too low will puddle.

Did you blast the aluminum prior to duracoating?

I am gonna have to borrow your idea for some rifles if you don't mind. I need to cut some flames from 1/4" to make a rifle rack. The rack sombined with some crazy paint on the rifles should look really cool at my table at the gun show.

I know there are tons of places to get Duracoat...... Who has the best prices ?

I know there are tons of places to get Duracoat...... Who has the best prices ?

:shaking:
Midway, by a couple cents

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6827025&postcount=66

:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

Do you run the duracoat through your airbrush?

Do you run the duracoat through your airbrush?

No, he gives himself a duracoat enema, jams a nozzle in his anus and then squeezes.

Did you blast the aluminum prior to duracoating?


not if the anodizing has a "tooth" (and most does) some of the "black" aluminum shit does not have a hard coat and just this shitty flat paint shit. That I sand blast. The handguard was sand blasted to soften the drill holes.

anything that is smooth gets blasted

Do you run the duracoat through your airbrush?
ummmmm...seeing as that is the only way to apply it, yes

No, he gives himself a duracoat enema, jams a nozzle in his anus and then squeezes.

I tried that but it gives to much spatter, i will work on my kegels :flipoff2:

So where did you get your stencil?

The closest thing I found online is
http://www.airheadairbrush.com/craig_fraser_templates.htm (second row on the right).

I know nothing about duracoat or airbrushes. :flipoff2:

I know nothing about duracoat or airbrushes. :flipoff2:

you know I wrote a thread on "how to apply a protective finish on a weapon" thread somewhere around here :flipoff2:

you know I wrote a thread on "how to apply a protective finish on a weapon" thread somewhere around here :flipoff2:

You should link me to it. You have a bjallion posts to search through. :flipoff2:

NM, found it.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=538502

:shaking:
Midway, by a couple cents

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6827025&postcount=66

:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:



I don't know who's worse, me or JasonR:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Stencils
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/abstencil.aspx?gclid=CMrdsbOfsowCFSgRGgod_B7SSQ

Some cool ones. Dragon Skin, Brains, oh and Aloha Spirit :laughing:

Oh they look like they are for full size cars, so may not work for us. But some good ideas if you have an Xacto and want to cut your own.

Doc, did you use stencils or vinyl masks?
Found some real nice masks, XXX, but not sure they would work.

Nevermind, I do believe that the top stencil in this kit is yours
http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/9541/Iwata-Curse-of-Skullmaster-Mini-Series-Airbrush-Templates.htm

http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=IWA+FH-SK14
from your first link. most of this guys stuff is very nice and small scale.
I cut my own as well, depends on mood :laughing:

I am thinking about a flame job, using various greens.

I am thinking about a flame job, using various greens.

:rainbow:

:rainbow:

So skulls are:evil: but flames are :rainbow: :confused::flipoff2:

Why not a tribal arm band? :flipoff2:


Flames are classic :grinpimp:

So skulls are:evil: but flames are :rainbow: :confused::flipoff2:

Makes me :eek: at the thought of what it is if my wife actually talks me into building her a pink one.

Makes me :eek: at the thought of what it is if my wife actually talks me into building her a pink one.

I am about this { } far away fom duracoating Bev's Bersa 9mm in purple before she gets back :laughing:

I am about this { } far away fom duracoating Bev's Bersa 9mm in purple before she gets back :laughing:

http://gallery.digitaldeviation.com/d/1229-1/o+rly__ruserious.JPG


:D

I'd be willing to even donate my 9mm just for the sake as a practice piece to get the colors right.

So skulls are:evil: but flames are :rainbow: :confused::flipoff2:

Yup. :flipoff2:

I've never seen anything like the Skulls on Doc's ARs/Fal. Flames are everywhere and I think look sort-of trashy/ghetto on most thinks. Just my opinion.

I really like doc's, the skulls are pretty sick. What forearms are those? I've never airbrushed, might have to practice some. How did you feather the edges yet still keep enough detail? How much would a paint job like that cost, would you consider doing it (Doc)?

I really like those forearms...

I am about this { } far away fom duracoating Bev's Bersa 9mm in purple before she gets back :laughing:

Bonus points if you get a spare set of grips and glue some faux fur to them or gold leaf them.

Thanks Doc,
I just did my 1st lower last night and the pic of the parts at the top helped a lot.

It's funny though all I used was a pair of channel locks:laughing: some tape, a small piece of cardboard (so the channel locks wont scratch the finish). and the allen screw driver for the grip. Worked like a champ:grinpimp:

put my shit together last night (all parts except stripped lower courtesy of aloharover)

anyways, big channel-locks, a screwdriver, and masking tape was all it took. not glamorous, but got the job done

where i'm stuck is the 6-pos stock. i'm guessing i need a specialized tool to tighten down the lock nut? it has 4 square notches cut in it. is this something you just crank down, or should it be torqued? i've seen conflicting post about staking it vs loctite vs nothing at all....thoughts?

You can buy the proper spanner tool for cheap, search for "car stock wrench."

Or you can just use a hammer, and a screwdriver(or punch) to knock it around enough to be tight. I stake mine, it's easier to deal with later on than red loctite.

might as well continue using the large channel locks:flipoff2:

might as well continue using the large channel locks:flipoff2:

yea, just worried about scratching the hell out of the ring. i'll see what i can do, otherwise i'll get a $4 car wrench as i need to order some random shit anyways

yea, just worried about scratching the hell out of the ring. i'll see what i can do, otherwise i'll get a $4 car wrench as i need to order some random shit anyways

don't use the channel locks. that is what the :flipoff2: was for.

where i'm stuck is the 6-pos stock. i'm guessing i need a specialized tool to tighten down the lock nut? it has 4 square notches cut in it. is this something you just crank down, or should it be torqued? i've seen conflicting post about staking it vs loctite vs nothing at all....thoughts?

The RRA wrench is available from Brownells for 8$.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16882&title=AR-15%20M4%20STOCK%20WRENCH
I lube the threads, install, and then stake the ring.

Hey Doc, you wouldn't happen to have any part numbers for the handguard etc would ya? Did a quick search for DPMS handguards and only came up with their carbon fiber version. There's got to be a cheaper one.

Thinking about picking up an AR and love the way you'rs turned out, would like to recreate it eventually.

Thanks for doing the write up.

BTT.

For some reasont it didn't cycle back up when I posted.

Hey Doc, you wouldn't happen to have any part numbers for the handguard etc would ya? Did a quick search for DPMS handguards and only came up with their carbon fiber version. There's got to be a cheaper one.

Thinking about picking up an AR and love the way you'rs turned out, would like to recreate it eventually.

Thanks for doing the write up.

Its just a rifle length aluminum full float tube from brownells. Pete should be able to get you a good deal on one.

Anyone have any experience of removing a pinned flash hider and re-pinning it? I've got to take my rail and FSB / Gas Block off.

Anyone have any experience of removing a pinned flash hider and re-pinning it? I've got to take my rail and FSB / Gas Block off.


same location or a new one?

For removal, located where the pin is. Next ground down the weld a bit with a cut off wheel. Then cut across parallel down the length of the flash hider using a small cutoff wheel directly through the pin location. Be sure not to cut into the barrel, but before the barrel cut all the way through the flash hider. Then give it a good whack with a cold chisel. Should split so you can pull the pin out and unscrew the flash hider.

To install, drill the flash hider all the way through using a bit the same diameter as your pin (I use a cloths hanger as a pin). Then screw on the flash hider and use the hole you drilled as a guide to drill into the barrel. Drill just enough so you don't go into the barrel :flipoff2: A drill press makes this easy. Then put your pin in. Cut off the top. Give it a good tack weld. Clean up with a flap disk and paint. Done.

shit, I thought he typed "gas block" :laughing:

bump so I can find it again:laughing:

can somebody take a GOOD close up pic of how the trigger/disconnect/hammer lay on top of each other and how their springs line up:D

I had to pull this thread up because a guy at work did not believe me how easy AR's are to build.

I had to pull this thread up because a guy at work did not believe me how easy AR's are to build.

The best way to teach a man is to make him do it himself. Go ahead, do it. :evil:


I learned by watching a video on the net, then I sat down with a stripped lower and a bag of parts. I got it all together using a pair of channel locks and I think a wrench for a hammer and it even functioned. I put one together so cybergeek could see how it worked.

The best way to teach a man is to make him do it himself. Go ahead, do it. :evil:


I learned by watching a video on the net, then I sat down with a stripped lower and a bag of parts. I got it all together using a pair of channel locks and I think a wrench for a hammer and it even functioned. I put one together so cybergeek could see how it worked.


I built my first AR having never even seen a FCG taken out in person or video. Ordered up the kit, got a stripped lower, and spent some quality time on the internet. It went together without a hitch except the function check failed, I figured out I had the disconnector spring in upside down. It was actually the very first gun I ever bought, and the start of a lot of evil which now resides in my safe. :evil:

bump so I can find it again:laughing:

can somebody take a GOOD close up pic of how the trigger/disconnect/hammer lay on top of each other and how their springs line up:D

Hope this helps.

So I finally dove in to the AR platform. Have been kinda wanting one for a few years, but kept putting it off. Finally said fawk it and put one together. I wanted a basic bare-bones no tacti-cool crap 20" rifle. So that's what I put together. No rails, no frills, no larue, just a basic rifle that goes bang :flipoff2: Well, I did opt for the national match front and rear sights, but that's not much in the way of mall ninja...


Stripped lower from aloharover, upper from model 1 sales. Don't remember where the internal parts came from, I've had them for over a year sitting in a box.

Took all of an hour or less to put together. Haven't fired it yet, but will soon...

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/AR-15/P1010357.jpg

Looks good.

Now go shoot the piss out of it.

That's the plan. And it's gonna get put up dirty a few times too :D




One thing that might be helpful to anyone... I've noticed just about everyone building these uses tape on the side of the receiver when tapping in the bolt release pin.

Harbor Tool & Freight has a long punch set for like 15 bucks that is perfect for this. There are various sized long and short punches, and the long set is long enough to extend well past the end of the receiver, so all you need to do is lock the receiver in a vice, and use the long punch to drive the pin home. No need for tape, and no chance of malling the receiver.

The long punches are also good for nocking out the buffer tube from the buttstock.

I need some advice about marking the caliber on the AR that I am building. I have a CMMG lower that is marked for 5.56 NATO. I picked up a barely used 7.62x39 ER Shaw barrel that may have some markings under the gas block (there are some that are partially visible) but otherwise has no marks. I have yet to purchase the upper receiver. How can I best mark this rifle so everyone will know that it is a 7.62x39?

Things I have thought about: Get some number stamps and use them on the barrel - is the barrel too hard for this to work?

Stamp the upper receiver - will this damage the upper? I assume I would have to refinish when done.

Fill the lower marking and stamp the new caliber - what to fill it with, how to prepare it, and possibility of damage?

Engrave the barrel, upper, etc. - where would I start looking for someone that does this.

Any other ideas other than buy a different lower?

Thanks
RD

Have you considered the dust cover??


Stamp a small 7.62x39 into the outer portion of the cover, so when it's closed, you can see the letters.


And if you fuck it up, they're easy to replace.

Good idea - I like that.

Thanks.

Fawkin newb question time! Are all AR-15 bolts/barrels universaly headspaced? As in, I have a bolt carrier and bolt already and will be getting the barrel with the extender already installed. Do I need to check headspacing after assembly or just bolt the bitch together and go? Can I swap one BCG from one rifle to another without problems?

Fawkin newb question time! Are all AR-15 bolts/barrels universaly headspaced? As in, I have a bolt carrier and bolt already and will be getting the barrel with the extender already installed. Do I need to check headspacing after assembly or just bolt the bitch together and go? Can I swap one BCG from one rifle to another without problems?

when NEW 99% of the time they headspace fine. Used parts or going for a match weapon is when its a good idea to headspace. I keep a set of gauges (when I can find them :laughing: ) when I put a new bolt in a used barrel.

Keep the bolt with that barrel, do not swap between guns.

this way I can find this fucker :laughing:
search words: AR15 ar-15 variant do-it-your-self diys

umm, bookmarks -> add bookmark :p

Fawk that noise. Why build?
Send me money I send you gun. Seems pretty straight forward.

Send me lots and lots and lots and I send you....


http://www.evilblackrifleshop.com/images/psale/noveske.jpg

Fawk that noise. Why build?


Cause I wanted the satisfaction of doing it myself and to figure out how all this shit went together :flipoff2: You did the first one for me, I can take it from here!

Fawk that noise. Why build?
Send me money I send you gun. Seems pretty straight forward.

Send me lots and lots and lots and I send you....


http://www.evilblackrifleshop.com/images/psale/noveske.jpg

Unless you live where we live. Or MA and DC. :(

Fawk that noise. Why build?
Send me money I send you gun. Seems pretty straight forward.

Send me lots and lots and lots and I send you....


http://www.evilblackrifleshop.com/images/psale/noveske.jpg

Is that a Noveske? :drool:

Fawk that noise. Why build?
Send me money I send you gun. Seems pretty straight forward.

Send me lots and lots and lots and I send you....


whatever fag :flipoff2:

got two kits from pete today. i got them both assembled. one is a DS 24" bull barrel and the other is a CMMG 16" middy.

it has probably been covered, but there is slight bit of slop between the upper and lower on the DS bull barrel kit. is this normal? i would say its maybe 1*... very little, but noticable.

Accu-wedge that bitch.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16662&title=AR-15/M16%20ACCU-WEDGE

The slop doesn't matter, sights, bore, bolt, they are all on one piece. Screw the accuwedge, just get a $.05 O-ring and put it on the pivot pin or take down pin boss, it'll tighten things right up.

just built my first AR, and my retarded coworker did the same with the flawless directions.

Not bad for an imaginary type guy! :smokin:

Got my first ar today :) a stag arms model. The damn acu wedge makes it a mo fo to break down. Will it get easier after time? I want the rear pin with the ring on it, a red dot sight and a rail mount front hand guard. Ne of u guys got this stuff?

Got my first ar today :) a stag arms model. The damn acu wedge makes it a mo fo to break down. Will it get easier after time? I want the rear pin with the ring on it, a red dot sight and a rail mount front hand guard. Ne of u guys got this stuff?



Yes. It will be tight the first few times. But it will loosen up over time.

I had to pull this thread up because a guy at work did not believe me how easy AR's are to build.

Just search your username and AR :flipoff2:

The last build I did I only used a finishing nail as a punch only to countersink roll pins. I have some flat jaw channel locks that fawking rule!

Is there a trick to getting the front pivot pin back out once the detent is installed?

Is there a trick to getting the front pivot pin back out once the detent is installed?

push a paper clip in the hole in the cross pin when fully pulled out (look from the front). push in detent juuuuust enough to clear the pin and slide it out.

push a paper clip in the hole in the cross pin when fully pulled out (look from the front). push in detent juuuuust enough to clear the pin and slide it out.

And then get yer goddamn eye outta the way. :flipoff2:

Yes. It will be tight the first few times. But it will loosen up over time.

That's what she said...... :laughing:

for the free float handguard, i find a dpms one that is fairly cheap, it is listed as a 2 piece. is one piece the guard and the other the barrel nut?

I'm an AR newbie.


I've fired one once since I was in high school. I've never field stripped one, let alone assembled one.

Following these instructions, it took me about 75 minutes to assemble one. And that included time running back and forth to the garage to get various tools.

And I only lost one of the pin detents :rolleyes:

And I only lost one of the pin detents :rolleyes:

Those fawkers fly don't they:laughing: I managed to recover the one I put in orbit. If you could see how cluttered my shop is right now it would be evidence of a miracle.

actually, I found it this morning! :laughing:

actually, I found it this morning! :laughing:

I learned to put those in with the lower inside a gallon ziplock bag :p

I 'lost' it when it slipped out from under my fingernail and shot across the kitchen.

I learned to put those in with the lower inside a gallon ziplock bag :pNow that is the kind of helpful hint we can use :laughing:

I 'lost' it when it slipped out from under my fingernail and shot across the kitchen.

Same thing with me. Bounced off my glasses and onto the floor

I learned to put those in with the lower inside a gallon ziplock bag :p


Second time I used a cardboard box. I R smart! :laughing:
The bag is a better idea if you actually want to see what you are doing:flipoff2:

found some great videos at brownell's. Apparently you can buy the dvd for about $25, or you can just watch all the clips online. This may be helpful to orient those that have a hard time visualizing things in 2D pictures. I haven't gone through them all, but it pretty much covers the gamut of ARs. Starts off with intro stuff explaining the difference in various ARs like the A1, A2, A3, CAR, HBAR, etc. Then it goes into various options and how to choose what's right for you. Finally it gets to assembling the uppers and lowers.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?x=v&p=0&t=1&i=1103


There is also this one for the lower receiver from LifeLibertyEtc.com, along with several other videos I haven't watched yet.

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-build-a-stripped-ar-15-rifle-lower-assembly-255593/

I like to use a razor blade or a knife blade to hold the detent in place while inserting the pin.


I may have a spare detent or two if anyone needs it....

I did my first two lowers today....meh....they are legos for gun nuts. :laughing:

Pretty easy. Heck of a lot easier than getting that dang shepard's crook around the pins in an AK.

Thanks for the write up people.

I need a commercial buffer tube...

I need a commercial buffer tube...

Carbine or rifle?

I just installed a Benny Hill muzzle brake on my AR tonight and will be testing it out tomorrow. At both of the 3-guns I have shot ALL (as in, every single one) of the "serious" competitors had this brake on their rifles. Its fancy looking and I'm stoked about putting a couple hundred rounds down the tube tomorrow.

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/l_100003689_1.jpg

Very cool thread. The skulls are cool.

I did my first one last weekend. I used channel locks and a 2# ball peen hammer along with a bit of 3m blue masking tape:smokin:

I did my first one last weekend. I used channel locks and a 2# ball peen hammer along with a bit of 3m blue masking tape:smokin:

:laughing: "specialty tools" :laughing:

I need a commercial buffer tube...

Carbine or rifle?

I thought that commercial/mil-spec only applies to collapsible stocks. Did I just use up this years wrong thought already?

I thought that commercial/mil-spec only applies to collapsible stocks. Did I just use up this years wrong thought already?

You are correct, it applies to collapsible stocks only, rifle extensions are all the same.

Whatever works with a collapsible stock....

I did my first one last weekend. I used channel locks and a 2# ball peen hammer along with a bit of 3m blue masking tape:smokin:

I may have you beat in the "redneck tools" category. I put together my first lower Friday night. My complete list of tools:

Bluegrass music
Framing hammer
Centerpunch
One of those cheap ass reversible screwdrivers you buy from the impulse rack at Lowes
Dad's old channel locks that are older than me
A rag to wrap around lower to keep framing hammer from fawking it up


I also learned something important. Never assemble a lower in your living room if you have a vaulted ceiling. The front takedown pin detent thingy majigy launched out, hit the ceiling, bounced off the window, hit the laptop screen, then the couch, and ended up in the rug. It took me 10 minutes to find it with my mechanic's magnetic pickup tool. :laughing:

Good instructions Doc. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

On a related note, my takedown pins are REALLY tight (not the fitment of the pin in the hole, but the amount of force it takes for the detent pin to let go. Will they loosen up with time, or is that just the nature of the beast with some of them?

On a related note, my takedown pins are REALLY tight (not the fitment of the pin in the hole, but the amount of force it takes for the detent pin to let go. Will they loosen up with time, or is that just the nature of the beast with some of them?

It may loosen up a little with a lot of back-n-forth, or you can accelerate it by sanding/filing/grinding the tip of the detent flatter than it is. Beware that if you go too far, the detent will stop doing anything, so don't go all Halogrinder on it. :laughing: :flipoff2:

Razor blades or knife edges work really well when putting in the detents. But yeah, I've launched a few into oblivion..


I find one every now and then in the carpet... :D



Detents will be a little rough at first, but after some oil gets to them, and after they've had some time to break in, they'll loosen up a bit.

Just put together my first lower ever with nothing but a dollar store screw driver and Chinese pot-metal slip joint pliers.

I was feeling like a bad ass until I launched into the next dimension the buffer retainer and spring :laughing:

$8 to get another set from Midway :shaking:

Best tip so far: use a gallon ziplock bag to put the detent and spring together. At least those didn't shoot off into next week.

Now I just have to go order an upper.

Doc, I can't believe you used DPMS

Doc, I can't believe you used DPMS

What the fuck does that matter? :confused:
Its a hunk of metal lower, pretty much the same as EVERY OTHER hunk of metal lower.
I have DPMS, STAG, Colt, YHM fuck even a Vucan plastic lower and OMFG!!! PLASTIC UPPER !! on my 22LR AR. :shaking:

Don't even think of bringing some fucking AR15.com holier than thou mfg bullshit in to here. :rolleyes:

What the fuck does that matter? :confused:
Its a hunk of metal lower, pretty much the same as EVERY OTHER hunk of metal lower.
I have DPMS, STAG, Colt, YHM fuck even a Vucan plastic lower and OMFG!!! PLASTIC UPPER !! on my 22LR AR. :shaking:

Don't even think of bringing some fucking AR15.com holier than thou mfg bullshit in to here. :rolleyes:

I was fucking with you, forgot the short hand for :flipoff2: as I was using quick reply.
AR15.com is a bunch of crap.
:laughing:

BTT so I can find it

Adding a link to my build here.

Contains some different stuff, such as lapping an upper to true the barrel mounting surface, chopping the FSB, and some bling parts. As I get around to it I'll get the new lower and do some trigger tuning as well as captured detents. For now, it is what it is.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=833934

This has helped a lot, starting on my build right around Christmas, once I've amassed the parts.

I just did my first one with a womens house hammer, dollar general pliers and my pocket knife.
:laughing:
Oh do I get bonus points for doing while watching Blackhawk Down?? :smokin:

On a related note, now I need to figure out a ambi safety without paying $20.
searching 3... 2... 1....

On a related note, now I need to figure out a ambi safety without paying $20.
searching 3... 2... 1....

just buy it. The selector is hard as fuck and a PITA to drill/tap/slot, i found it easier to just order one :laughing:

Noted. Thanks. Thats what I was gonna try.

Yeah. I got a Stag ambi selector from Pete (back when he stocked them) for under $30.

Had to fit it slightly (shave a few thousandths off the bastage where it would hang up in FIRE and prevent the trigger from moving) but it was stupidily simple to install. Whatever you build for a right-side lever, unless you've got a mill in the garage, is gonna look like you made it yourself. If you know what I mean. ;)

so let me see if im following this right...i would need these

stag lower (http://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-15-lower-receivers/stag-stripped-lower-stagstrippedlower-detail.htm) -$100

upper then add green furniture and removable handle (http://www.model1sales.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=KCE160&storeid=1&image=car16pre.gif&CFID=59993764&CFTOKEN=55045668)- $615

being prolly $800 with shipping?

You're also going to need a lower parts kit ($60), stock, buffer, buffer tube, buffer spring ($60-300), sights (your link doesn't work for the upper, don't know if it's got em or not, $80-200 for both), mags, and lots and lots of ammo.

fixed pls advise

or be faster ahead with this (http://eastcoastgunsales.com/product.php?ID=102193)

Couldnt see the upper (link led to your shopping cart), but you will also need a lower parts kit ($60ish) and stock ($ depends on what you want).

$800 is sort of though. You can do it for cheaper.

http://cmmginc.secure-mall.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=161&

http://cmmginc.secure-mall.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=161&

are those any good?

are those any good?

Hell yes. I got one a few years ago, runs like a damn top. As soon as I'm done with my new build the wife is getting the bargain bin rifle. I'ts not top of the line, but it's an AR and it'll run. Add a rear sight, a few mags, and go shooting.

are those any good?

I don't have any experience with their ar. I do have one of their 22lr uppers and its nice. Their customer service is top notch for sure.

so being extremely new to this ar thing is the 16" or 18" better?

and would this rear site (http://www.model1sales.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=UPARSY&storeid=1&image=YHMrearsight.gif&CFID=59993764&CFTOKEN=55045668) work with the standard a2 front?

and can you mount these (http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=415321&pdesc=Barska_1x30mm_IR_M_16_Tactical_Red_Dot_Elect ro_Sight_Riflescope&aID=503N8&merchID=4006#details_box_holder) with a standard a2 front sight or does it interfere?


again sorry for the newb questions but gotta start somewhere

so being extremely new to this ar thing is the 16" or 18" better?

and would this rear site (http://www.model1sales.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=UPARSY&storeid=1&image=YHMrearsight.gif&CFID=59993764&CFTOKEN=55045668) work with the standard a2 front?

and can you mount these (http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=415321&pdesc=Barska_1x30mm_IR_M_16_Tactical_Red_Dot_Elect ro_Sight_Riflescope&aID=503N8&merchID=4006#details_box_holder) with a standard a2 front sight or does it interfere?


again sorry for the newb questions but gotta start somewhere

There are a metric crapton of AR threads here in the forum, search through a bit, do some reading.

Cheapest rear sight these days is the Magpul MBUS, can find it for under $50.

Hold off on an optic till you know more about them, shoot irons for a while to figure out how to use em.

Read, read, read.

Just get the CMMG Bargain Bin 16" carbone, a magpul rear sight, and some 10$ mags and ammo.

Go shoot.

Delton is running their complete-rifles-minus-stripped-lowers for around $450 again.

Delton is running their complete-rifles-minus-stripped-lowers for around $450 again.

anyone give me a heads up on the difference between their light weight barrel vs. their heavy barrel. Weight difference, shot groupings, distance, or any other differences i dont know about. Thanks

anyone give me a heads up on the difference between their light weight barrel vs. their heavy barrel. Weight difference, shot groupings, distance, or any other differences i dont know about. Thanks


I just ordered the 16" heavy barrel with M4 feel ramps and some other options. I don't see a use for the M4 barrel unless I happen to come across a granade launcher that I need to mount on the gun.:grinpimp:

FNG question... For the bolt catch to hold the bolt open do you need to have a mag inserted? Reason I assembled my lower and upper and went to do a check, and with no mag the bolt will snap shut.

Yep, insert an empty mag or push the catch away from the lower.

Yep, insert an empty mag or push the catch away from the lower.

Or push on the lower half of the catch as you pull the bolt to the rear

Or push on the lower half of the catch as you pull the bolt to the rear

I tried that and out of the several dozen attempts I could never get it to hold.

I just ordered the 16" heavy barrel with M4 feel ramps and some other options. I don't see a use for the M4 barrel unless I happen to come across a granade launcher that I need to mount on the gun.:grinpimp:

I fucking loath the m203 cutout on AR15 barrels.

I tried that and out of the several dozen attempts I could never get it to hold.




You're not pushing it in far enough, or there is a problem with the part and/or installation.

Bolt catch issues explained...


Most likely problem with your bolt catch, if you are new to the AR platform, is just not pulling the bolt back far enough while pressing on the bolt catch. If you look in the ejection port, it will look like this...
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2838/p1040912m.jpg

If the bolt stays back at all, it will release if the wind blows wrong. With the bolt catch only engaging the bolt carrier there just is not enough surface to hold things in place. It is possible to get the wrong mix of buffer parts that don't allow the bolt to travel rearward enough and have this happen, but if you are shooting, you'll have broken parts before you worry about your bolt catch not working right.

Next problem can have a couple different causes. The primary cause is mixing up the bolt catch spring with the disconnector spring. It's almost easy to do since they are pretty close in length, but the disconnector spring has a large and small end where the bolt catch spring is straight, both ends are the same size. Here's how it looks through the ejection port when you mix up springs...
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/5950/igp1815dxoraw.jpg

Notice how much of the bolt lugs you can see above the bolt catch, the catch is not raised up enough. This will lock the bolt to the rear, but it will be easily released if you bump the gun. The second cause of this is a bit rarer, but does happen, sometimes the bolt catch buffer pocket is not drilled deep enough. If you have verified that you have the right spring in there, tried a new spring and buffer, and it still doesn't work right, it's time to start measuring or try another lower if you have one.

Here's how things should look if you got all the right parts in the right places, this bolt catch is 100%, notice you can't see the lugs on the bolt behind the bolt catch, this is how high it should raise...
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/boltcatch2.jpg


Other issues that affect the bolt catch have to do with how it's made, which magazines you use, and which lower you use. As with all things that are machined there is a lower and an upper spec (a part must be between x.xx" and y.yy" to be considered in spec). Tolerance stacking, where one part is at the minimum spec and another part is at the maximum spec will create problems.

Here's an example of tolerance stacking from a writeup over at barfcom. Same lower shown with 3 different magazines, notice how the bolt catch doesn't hit the followers on the first two magazines but does on the third.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/boltc1.jpg

This is a result of the bolt catch position in the lower (one side of the spec), length of the bolt catch (minimum spec), and differences in magazine followers. The guy who did the writeup tried a couple different bolt catches with the same results which narrowed it down to magazine followers and the machining of the lower itself, how he cured it is using a 9mm AR bolt catch and filing it down to the right length.

9mm bolt catch installed...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/ar01.jpg

And after he filed it to the proper length to work with all of his magazines...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/ar04.jpg

Here's the writeup if you want more info.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=66&t=479984




If you have some kind of problem with your bolt catch that isn't covered here, you're on your own, suck it up, deal with it, and post it up with pics.

Put my first AR together this weekend. Retro styling.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/AR15.jpg

I started with the M16A1 parts kit that is available from several suppliers. I got mine from Centerfire Systems. It had all the parts I needed except a proper selector, a disconnector and lower receiver. The parts are very good condition, almost new except for some handling scuffs. The website says no FCG, but it was all included except for the disco. I ground the sear catch off the hammer, and filled the back of the trigger to make them AR spec. The sear and selector became art under the welder.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/hammermod.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/trigger.jpg

The included barrel in white needs some work to attach the front sight. I tapped the sight block pin holes for set screws and milled flats on the side of the barrel to seat against.
The barrel seems low quality, with some roughness in the crown and chamber entrance. The chamber almost seems unfinished, as it left distinct rings in the brass.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/caserings.jpg

The kit is marked as "cracked handguard". The original handguard had a impact crack the size of a finger tip, not especially noticeable. I used it as otherwise it looked very good. The kit included another scruffy looking but undamaged triangular guard, and a beat up A2 style guard.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/crackedhandguard.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/extrahandguards.jpg

I only put a couple of mags through it, but it functioned perfectly. The Colt trigger feels like my Python. There is no felt movement as pressure is increased until it breaks. Light and crisp. I'm not sure if all AR's are that way, but I like it over the long travel of an AK, or the heavy pull of an HK.

The only thing I'm not too happy with so far is that the brass seems to be hitting the receiver. The A1 upper has a minimal port buffer and the brass goes rearward. I think it was hitting my ear muffs as well. Any add-on solution for this?

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/brassstrikes.jpg

The only thing I'm not too happy with so far is that the brass seems to be hitting the receiver. The A1 upper has a minimal port buffer and the brass goes rearward. I think it was hitting my ear muffs as well. Any add-on solution for this?

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/brassstrikes.jpg

look at pics above
you have no brass deflector
I have 3 or 4 LPK's I would have swapped you for your parts:)

I have 3 or 4 LPK's I would have swapped you for your parts:)

I thought about the sell/trade to someone who could use the M16 FCG, but I didn't really want to deal with having the parts, and there must be a fair number of these kits out there, so I figured the parts can't be too hard to come up with if someone needs them. I also kind of like the idea of having the Colt FCG in the rifle.


you have no brass deflector

I'd heard that hot brass down the collar was part of the "charm" of an A1, but didn't realize it would bounce off the receiver on the way.:laughing:
Now searching for "brass deflector" and "case deflector".

I have done over 40+ of these deals so far.
Thanks to the OSR forum! Your keeping me armed and "semi" :laughing: dangerous.

I thought about the sell/trade to someone who could use the M16 FCG, but I didn't really want to deal with having the parts, and there must be a fair number of these kits out there, so I figured the parts can't be too hard to come up with if someone needs them. I also kind of like the idea of having the Colt FCG in the rifle.



I'd heard that hot brass down the collar was part of the "charm" of an A1, but didn't realize it would bounce off the receiver on the way.:laughing:
Now searching for "brass deflector" and "case deflector".



I'm not aware of any sort of "add-on" type of deflector, since it was added to the casting of later variants.


A slick-side is something I've wanted since well before I got my first AR.. one of these days....

Put my first AR together this weekend. Retro styling.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/AR15.jpg

I started with the M16A1 parts kit that is available from several suppliers. I got mine from Centerfire Systems. It had all the parts I needed except a proper selector, a disconnector and lower receiver. The parts are very good condition, almost new except for some handling scuffs. The website says no FCG, but it was all included except for the disco. I ground the sear catch off the hammer, and filled the back of the trigger to make them AR spec. The sear and selector became art under the welder.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/hammermod.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/trigger.jpg

The included barrel in white needs some work to attach the front sight. I tapped the sight block pin holes for set screws and milled flats on the side of the barrel to seat against.
The barrel seems low quality, with some roughness in the crown and chamber entrance. The chamber almost seems unfinished, as it left distinct rings in the brass.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/caserings.jpg

The kit is marked as "cracked handguard". The original handguard had a impact crack the size of a finger tip, not especially noticeable. I used it as otherwise it looked very good. The kit included another scruffy looking but undamaged triangular guard, and a beat up A2 style guard.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/crackedhandguard.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/extrahandguards.jpg

I only put a couple of mags through it, but it functioned perfectly. The Colt trigger feels like my Python. There is no felt movement as pressure is increased until it breaks. Light and crisp. I'm not sure if all AR's are that way, but I like it over the long travel of an AK, or the heavy pull of an HK.

The only thing I'm not too happy with so far is that the brass seems to be hitting the receiver. The A1 upper has a minimal port buffer and the brass goes rearward. I think it was hitting my ear muffs as well. Any add-on solution for this?

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/brassstrikes.jpg

I bought one of these kits with the new barrel
it's "in the white"
what did you do to get yours black?
just high heat flat black rattle can?

just dug out my m16 upper kit
yup no shell deflector, I never even noticed that,lol
I'm about ready to build the upper, I bought an action block it's on the way
got the wrench & am about to do a bunch of 80% lowers I have bought over the last few years....I'm a bit slow when it comes to my own stuff.

I bought one of these kits with the new barrel
it's "in the white"
what did you do to get yours black?
just high heat flat black rattle can?

I parkerized it. I don't have a proper tank so I used a length of pvc pipe capped on one end. I heated the park solution on the stove, then poured it in the pipe with the barrel. I poured it back in the pan to reheat a few times till it was dark enough. Worked ok, but I don't think I cleaned it well enough as it came out a little spotty.

I put the front sight/gas block on with set screws. I used an end mill in the drill press to make flats in the barrel for the set screws to ride against.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/setscrews.jpg

I parkerized it. I don't have a proper tank so I used a length of pvc pipe capped on one end.

I put the front sight/gas block on with set screws. I used an end mill in the drill press to make flats in the barrel for the set screws to ride against.

That all certainly is... quick and dirty, LOL. :D

I parkerized it. I don't have a proper tank so I used a length of pvc pipe capped on one end. I heated the park solution on the stove, then poured it in the pipe with the barrel. I poured it back in the pan to reheat a few times till it was dark enough. Worked ok, but I don't think I cleaned it well enough as it came out a little spotty.

I put the front sight/gas block on with set screws. I used an end mill in the drill press to make flats in the barrel for the set screws to ride against.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/metalworking/setscrews.jpg

I've always figured that parking was out of my league 'cause I didn't have a proper tank (I know they aren't that hard to make). Your solution is simple and within the means of anybody - I like it. :smokin:

In order to maintain domestic tranquility, I will probably move this operation outside with the Camp Chef stove.

My first park tank was a 24" x 12" x 4" stainless chafing pan I got from the goodwill. I put it on my two burner barbque. Worked great. :D

I've always figured that parking was out of my league 'cause I didn't have a proper tank (I know they aren't that hard to make). Your solution is simple and within the means of anybody - I like it. :smokin:

In order to maintain domestic tranquility, I will probably move this operation outside with the Camp Chef stove.

Length of PVC pipe with a heating element from an H2) heater is all mine is.
For small parts I have an old slow cooker/crock pot. I only break out the PVC if I am doing barrels.
For even smaller parts, an old coffee cup in the microwave for 2-3 minutes.

I parkerized it. I don't have a proper tank so I used a length of pvc pipe capped on one end. I heated the park solution on the stove, then poured it in the pipe with the barrel. I poured it back in the pan to reheat a few times till it was dark enough. Worked ok, but I don't think I cleaned it well enough as it came out a little spotty.

Did you media blast the barrel?
I have found that unless I do a good blasting job, followed by cleaning, it always turns out spotty.

And CLEAN really well. ALL the oil must be gone.

Length of PVC pipe with a heating element from an H2O heater is all mine is.

Did you post that on here? I know I got the idea from a web post somewhere.

I lightly sand blasted the barrel.
I think the real issue was that when the solution was hot I realized I needed a funnel to get it in the pipe. I quick grabbed one that had some wax residue in it from a previous project, which then melted and mucked up the mix.
It was my first parking attempt, and a learning experience. I'll probably tear it down and re-park it at some point, but it doesn't look bad except up close, so I'm in no rush.

I would say so too. Even a little tiny blob of cosmoline makes weird camo swirls in park.

Did you post that on here? I know I got the idea from a web post somewhere.

I lightly sand blasted the barrel.
I think the real issue was that when the solution was hot I realized I needed a funnel to get it in the pipe. I quick grabbed one that had some wax residue in it from a previous project, which then melted and mucked up the mix.
It was my first parking attempt, and a learning experience. I'll probably tear it down and re-park it at some point, but it doesn't look bad except up close, so I'm in no rush.

Yes, photos and stuff are on here somewhere.

ok before I google, where are you getting the park solution?

Length of PVC pipe with a heating element from an H2) heater is all mine is.
For small parts I have an old slow cooker/crock pot. I only break out the PVC if I am doing barrels.
For even smaller parts, an old coffee cup in the microwave for 2-3 minutes.

ok, what is an h2?:homer:bet I should know,lol

Solution = Brownells.com

H2) = H2O

:D

Man, now I have a hankerin for a 16A1..... on a registered lower.

My park setup is a SS pan I got from a restaurant supply store, and just heat it on the stove with the vent hood on. I'm single, so I can get away with stuff like that.


On a side note relating to parkerizing, you get a pretty cool green effect if you dunk your parts into a tub of cosmoline immediately after removal from the park solution. It's how a lot of guys get that springfield green park look.


ok before I google, where are you getting the park solution?


I got mine from Midway. I also got some pre-dip blackening solution. I don't know what it is, but it turns the parts a rich dark black when parkerizing with manganese phosphate. Without it, the manganese phosphate park is a charcoal gray color.

Here's my results. This is after pulling from the tank and spraying and wiping down with remoil. Wish I had a better camera for this:

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010155.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010154.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010149-1.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010151-1.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010156-1.jpg

Solution = Brownells.com

H2) = H2O

:D
hot water heater element?

hot water heater element?

Yes

On a side note relating to parkerizing, you get a pretty cool green effect if you dunk your parts into a tub of cosmoline immediately after removal from the park solution. It's how a lot of guys get that springfield green park look.



and if you dump your hot solution in an orange HD bucket, the next time you park it will come out with a cool plumb tint

Great read, can't wait to do mine

Great read, can't wait to do mine


http://www.kevinholman.com/byor/lower/partsbig.jpg

My park setup is a SS pan I got from a restaurant supply store, and just heat it on the stove with the vent hood on. I'm single, so I can get away with stuff like that.


On a side note relating to parkerizing, you get a pretty cool green effect if you dunk your parts into a tub of cosmoline immediately after removal from the park solution. It's how a lot of guys get that springfield green park look.





I got mine from Midway. I also got some pre-dip blackening solution. I don't know what it is, but it turns the parts a rich dark black when parkerizing with manganese phosphate. Without it, the manganese phosphate park is a charcoal gray color.

Here's my results. This is after pulling from the tank and spraying and wiping down with remoil. Wish I had a better camera for this:

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010155.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010154.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010149-1.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010151-1.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010156-1.jpg

Dude, do a write up on the sten build

Hijack time... Looking for a little help with my first AR15 build here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=963374

Let me know, thank guys