I'm on the brink of purchasing a CO2 tank for on-board air. I've read a bit about what's needed. However, I'm still gathering info/learning about these.

Is there any real difference between Powertank and Trail-air kits besides the price? From everything I've read, they seem to be essentially the same, except the Trail-air is ~$60-$70 less for a 10 lb tank.

Anyone have any experiences to share? Anything in particular to look for/ watch out for?
Troy

Yea, both are overpriced for what you get.

Go to your local welding supply/homebrewery supply and pick up a 10 lbs tank for about $100 (some online places have had them for less than $100). Then buy a static psi regulator rated for CO2 (I use one from a balloon inflator manufacturer). Put on a quick release and you are all set. You do not need gauges on a CO2 tank, b/c it will have a constant (around 700 psi) pressure until it is almost empty.

I have two regulators (150 psi and 100 psi). I run my ARB's with the 100 psi (which I measured to have about 90 psi) regulator, and airtools, and airing up with the 150 psi (which has a little higher cfm output I think).

Been running this stuff for years now, with absolutely no problems. Can run an entire tank out the regulator quickly without freezing the regulator and making it malfunction (as some companies will lead you to believe). It will frost, and the first few feet of the hose will frost (depending on the ambient humidity), but it will not affect performance.

The regulators are very simple and sturdy. They do not have a manufacturer marked on them, so I cannot remeber the name right now. Next time I am in the shop, I can see if they have anymore.

Blister

ps. The regulators were about $20 each I think ($100 + $20 = $120 for your own "powertank")

Opps, also forgot to mention, I have been right next to two PowerTank's (sold by PowerTank) that had pretty dramatic failures. Both involved the rapid increase in the output pressure of the regulator (far in excess of what the gauge will read) when the regulator was cold from filling tires. Both had abrupt failure of the wall of the airhose, right next to the regulator. It herniated out into a small bubble and then burst. The concussion was loud enough that I was nearly deaf in one ear for two days afterward. And the broken end of the hose whipped out and hit a guy pretty hard on the arm. Anyway, that was >3 years ago, and maybe now they have better/safer stuff. I use some quality O2 (green) hose (for a torch) as my airline. It is rated for something like -100 f.

Hope this helps,

Blister

I have the Trail-Air and am very happy with it. I think you can get your own setup cheaper, but for me having a setup all ready to go was worth not bothering with the leg work.

The Trail-Air comes with an aluminum tank, I don't know if the ones BillnSandi are talking about are steel or aluminum. I have seen some of the steel ones, and the proportions for my application weren't as good and they didn't have any type of handle/guard.

The 270 includes shipping, hose, and mount, so when you really look at it, add some cash for the hose and air chuck, and some time or more cash for a mount, and the Trail-Air isn't that much more than you could roll it yourself for since it includes shipping.

This is my setup mounted in my Disco...

http://www.trail-air.com/mounting/discomount/discomount.htm

Tom

I just set myself up with the local air fill shop. They set me up with a 20 lb? aluminum bottle, regulator, hose, and air chuck for around $160. This is a Nitrogen system, so no freeze problems. It's also cheaper to fill ($8 vs $12).

Not as pretty as the Power Tank system, but the extra $300 bucks in my wallet makes me feel much better.

Now I just have to figure out how to mount it...

Chris
'73 LR Series III 88
'80 IH Scout II
'00 Saab Viggen

I am in the process of converting a Rover AirCon compressor to a Air compressor and using an old fire extinguisher as a air tank.

A friend of mine has done this type of comversion on his Jap Crap 4x4 and it runs a diff locks,air horns and a Rattle gun without any trouble and is quiet unlike those ARB Compressors.

Originally posted by cfishgo


....................Now I just have to figure out how to mount it...

Chris
'73 LR Series III 88
'80 IH Scout II
'00 Saab Viggen

Chris

Go to a plumbing/welding supply house and get a mounting bracket for a small acyetelene (sp) tank ("B" tank"), you can mount it either in the horizontal or vertical postion.

Marty

NEGATIVE on the Horizontal mounting of the CO2 tanks (at least for use in that configuration). They are filled with liquid CO2. If the tank is full and the tank is on its side, the first stage will be "under" the level of the CO2 liquid, and will freeze up right away with use in this orientation. It would be okay to store it in that position, if you take it out of the mount and stand it up for use.

One word of caution on these CO2 tanks. Make sure that if you buy a welding shop/home brew tank, that it is NOT a diptubed tank. These tanks are used to transfer liquid CO2 and have a dip tube that runs down to the bottom of the tank. This will give you pure CO2 liquid at the regulator. If you happen to buy a dip tube tank, just unscrew the first stage (when the tank is empty, please!!!) and remove the dip tube or cut it off short.

Blister

Troy, I've done the "home brew" version as well. The used tank cost me $20, the guage was $46, and disconnects and hose were another $40. It's a steel tank, but for just a little over $100 you can't beat it. Not as sexy as a power air, but just as effective.

Originally posted by BillnSandi
NEGATIVE on the Horizontal mounting of the CO2 tanks
Blister

I agree with that with a CO2 tank, but I was referring to Chris's nitrogen tank which can be mounted in either position since it is a gas.

Thanks for clarifying that for me.

Marty

No worries. I did not even notice that the tank Chris was talking about was Nitrogen. He mentions that Nitrogen is cheaper than CO2 for a fill. This is true, however, there is much, much more useable gas in a liquid filled CO2 tank (2 to 3 time more). And the pressure of a CO2 tank is significantly less than the Nitrogen tank. About 700 psi, compared with upwards of 2000 psi. In the case of a first stage failure, or god forbid a tank failure, this may make some difference.

Blister

FWIW, I can't recall exactly where I read it, but I believe the Nitrogen is actually upwards of 3000 psi --
Troy

One more thing --- so is there any benefit in having an adjustable regulator?

For now, the tank will just be used for airing up tires and the occasional reseating of a bead. Eventually, though, I'm sure air tools will find their way into the mix. By what you said, it sounds like a static regulator of 150 psi would work for air tools and airing up. I know nothing of air tool specs, but isn't there a max psi that the tools run at --- what is that psi generally?
Troy

Most air tools that I have seen are recommended for use at about 100 psi although my mechanic friends usually up their system pressure to about 160 psi. If you just want one regulator that will do everything, go for the 100 psi so you can also run ARBs off of it if you need to. ASSuMEing that you have ARBs anyway...

-John

Also because of hoses. Be sure that if you roll your own you get a proper hose for a static pressure regulator. The coilded hoses explode above 140 or so psi.

Tom

It looks like I'm going with a 10 or 15 lb tank from one of 2 local sources I found and a 100 and 150 psi regulator so I can run ARBs or air tools in a pinch and air-up tires or seat a bead.

Thanks for all your help guys. I owe you one ... :beer:
Troy