UCoatIt Garage Floor Paint?

[freyguy]

Anybody on here ever use this brand paint? I've looked all around and most people seem to preffer this over the cheaper Rustoleum 2 part epoxy kit. I'm moving to a new house with a 3 car garage with a shitty painted floor and want something that looks nice, but that will take a beating. It says it's resistant to welding spatter from bench height, so I may have to put a blanket down when doing axles and what not.

So, anybody have it?
Hows it holding up?
Did you do the extra top gloss coat?

[FFRubicon]

It's all in the prep work.

The old paint will need to be dealt with/removed.

If you can swing it, prep and paint it days before you moving in so that it will cure before there is anything to get in the way.

I used the rustoleum stuff years ago, in a shop application with results that matched the price.

A quick search reveled that Halogrinder has it and seems happy with it.

[PhantomEB]

Seems you get what you pay for. As said above, all in the prep work, and do it all before you either move in if you can.

[freyguy]

Good info, thanks. I gotta get me a red star soon to search. I tried the ghetto google pirate search with no luck.

I'm thinking of either powerwashing it all off, or just renting the concrete sander/cutter from a rental place. They say it really works well, and might be better than having to tape up the walls with tarps to prevent the drywall from getting wet. I'll have to spray down the muratic acid, but I'm thinking powerwashing would be a bit more messy.

And we are going to paint this house before we move in, so hopefully I can get it all done and curing within the first few days.

[nissancrawler]

I used the valspar 2 part epoxy, and it's great 4.5 years later still. I haven't had a spot to touch up. It discolors slightly if oil sits on it for a long time, but that's it. I've had no problems with welding/torching/etc. The prep is the key, as has been said. I spent 11-13 hours pressure washing the floor and scrubbing it, used 6 gallons of purple power, 3 boxes of tri-sodium-phosphate, and muriatic acid at the end. I let the floor dry for about 5 days before I painted. The paint is stuck. I've dropped steel and tools on it, and it doesn't affect it.

[PhantomEB]

Thats great to know!!! Especailly for us that weld in our garages!

[Kennedy]

Great thread. I'm getting ready to build a 32x40 shop and was planning on using something similiar on my new concrete floor. The only downside to applying it to fresh concrete that I can see is that the rustoleum crap says that fresh concrete needs to set and cure for 30 days before applying.

[Brutpwr]

Yeah my buddy built a shop and epoxy coated it before the concrete fully cured and the concrete gased up and left small bubbles in the finish. Had to sand it all down which was a bear to get it smooth and painted on another coat.

Jason :)

[Jess James]

Great thread. I'm getting ready to build a 32x40 shop and was planning on using something similiar on my new concrete floor. The only downside to applying it to fresh concrete that I can see is that the rustoleum crap says that fresh concrete needs to set and cure for 30 days before applying.

It wouldn't hurt to let the concrete cure for 30 days before doing a lot of things.
I let mine cure 28 days before installing the base plates for my Steel Master unit. The concrete was cut to prevent cracking. Between the curing and cuts, I haven't had any crack develop and the pad is 2 years and 2 mos old.

Edit: I almost went with the UCoatIt but chickened out on epoxy because of being in FL. I was afraid moisture would get by the Bisqueen and cause me some problems. As it turns out, it would have been fine.

[Cracked Skull]

If you can find a floor grinder use that instead of powerwashing and using acid. Most coating are water based, the better one's are 2-part solvent based. If your floor looks good after cleaning use a stain and a 2-part clear coat. That way you can do touch ups if needed.

[renolaw]

we used the 2 part epoxy on 9 mo old concrete. had a bear of a time w/ small bubbles rising up. then we're getting a bit of discoloration from UV rays from sun hitting it. all told, we ended up recovering it w/ 4 layers of epoxy to absorb the bubbles. used a rotary sander w/ 150 grit to take down the high spots. a million thanks to chris at holland waterproofing for the patience and dedication to getting it right.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/RARECJ8/DSC02411.jpg

[Halogrinder]

meh. its ok. but its much better than nothing. we'll see when i pressure wash it to get the grease and shit off of it :D

[Hackfabricaton]

Anybody on here ever use this brand paint? (U-Coat It) I've looked all around and most people seem to preffer this over the cheaper Rustoleum 2 part epoxy kit.

About three years ago, I did both my son's garage, and my garage with the Rustoleum two part epoxy. It's so-so. I had to partially mix one gallon (you can do it with a measuring cup) to complete mine. All in all, both 2 1/2 car garages took about 5 gallons. You can see my floor under the project heep:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/JeepCJ5.jpg

Like was posted, you get what you pay for, and prep is THE key. I lost count the number of times I pressure washed/scrubbed the floors in both garages. And I still have a couple area's where it 'lifted' in my garage. Both had area of oil saturation. The U-Coat It product seems to be top shelf. And the people that mfg it are only 40 minutes from me-I like 'local businesses'. But you pay for it, and I wasn't aware of it when I did mine. I do like the color choices and different color chips they offer. Plus the clear topcoat is a plus. I'd recommend that you don't do this solo...Have a helper to either roll the coating on, while you scatter the 'chips' or the other way around. If you have any cracks or spalling, fix the floor after you've washed it. U-Coat It markets a number of products for fixing cracks. If you have large areas of spalling, you can skim coat them...But better to call in the pro's. They've got the good stuff...Not the crap you buy at Home Depot.

When I build my 'Death Shop' (you know the last one you ever have), I'll look into having a commercial grade application, done by pro's, where I have a warranty on it.

Like so many people post about building their Jeeps: Do it once, and do it right.

[Halogrinder]

fawk that shit totally. my next floor coating will be Klinker tile, like at my dealership. you want proffesional, AND bomb proof? try that shit.

[Hackfabricaton]

...my next floor coating will be Klinker tile, like at my dealership...

Post up some pics!!!!!

[Halogrinder]

shittay pic, cause i normally dont just take pictures of the floor :flipoff2:


this page of my build of the CCC, there are a few pics of me tearing the engine down at the shop, and you can see the tile much easier.



http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=415703&page=4