I now that these a newbie question and I can leave with that. But if these the “NEW HARD CORE” section then I believe this go here may be not.

So my plan is to put full width front and rear of the 89 MJ and I want 90* departure angles in the front and rear. And wanted to link the rear I was thinking about doing something similar to a ZJ with rear coil and shock can these be done or better yet should this be done? I have seen some Toyota’s with like a half leaf spring in the back that would work as well? So I guess the real question is: What do you guy think should be done and how.

I no if I am ask how then I should run away and forget about this ideal but I have to start some where and some time. So I am gathering ideals. And if these belong in the newbie section then I will but it there.

Let me no.

Plus I wanted some thing hard core for the MJ fans out there so I hope this fits

Watson

4 link with air shocks or coil-overs. Coils next.

The half leaf spring is quarter eliptic(sp). Search around for C-rok's rig, IIRC, its a quarter eliptic(sp) with air bags.

i found this and it is what i kinda wanted to do to my truck now i just need some in sight on how. And here is a link. I think page 59 thru 64

Do you guys think that this would work with a MJ

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=447914&page=59&pp=25

Build a double trianglulated 4 link in the rear. Use a 4 link calculator to set-up the anti-squat and the other angles.

For the front use a 3 link with a trackbar(2 lower links and 1 upper link on one side). Make the front links parallel to the frame. It set-up will allow for a higher roll center.

If you become a member you can search. There is a ton of info here that will help you.

BTW, this is the the right place to post this.

Use a 4 link calculator to set-up the anti-squat and the other angles.

Sorry for the newbie question where do I find this calculator?? Is there a link or do I need a special software

I think i found it... well this work

http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcalcv15html/index.html

That one should work fine. There is also one for the 3 link front suspension I described.

Build a double trianglulated 4 link in the rear. Use a 4 link calculator to set-up the anti-squat and the other angles.

For the front use a 3 link with a trackbar(2 lower links and 1 upper link on one side). Make the front links parallel to the frame. It set-up will allow for a higher roll center.

...

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/03.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/05.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/07.jpg

Ver 1.0

The rear links are almost all the same length. I lost the original link data, but anti squat is reasonable, and roll steer is less than 5 degrees at 16" of travel. Frame and axle vertical link separation is within reason, allowing 1.25 x .12 wall upper links. The front is a 3 link, passenger side. 59" WMS. I scaled the stock front geometry up. Mid arm length.

--ron

thanks man that is one sick looking MJ. Also do you have pics of the front

Thanks

I like that rig, I am wondering what the wheel base is:confused:

I am moving on to link my rear, and his set-up is looking similar to the way my shit is set up

...

do you have pics of the front

Thanks

Not very good ones.

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/04.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/pic16.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/pic19.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/19.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/21.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/22.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/23.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/24.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/20.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/25.jpg

An MJ is the easiest way to go, to get to links in the rear. Chop it off and you are there. An XJ is alot more work. MJ's also have much bigger vertical shear planes on the uni body rails at the chop off point than an XJ.

--ron

...

I am wondering what the wheel base is:confused:

...

Ver 1.0 was 104" at ride height.


http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/10.jpg

Ver 8.5 was 105" at ride height.


http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/16.jpg

Ver 16.0 was 106" at ride height.


http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/pic18.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/pic09.jpg

http://www.liracon.com/ron/post/pic17.jpg

Ver 17.8 is 107" at ride height.

--ron

Mine is at 110" or so, so I got a ways to go to be as cool as you:cool2:

I figured on this build I would lose a bunch of sheetmetal as well

See I am thinking about leaving the frame and linking it and bobbed the bed because I really like that look. Plus I don’t have the tools or now who to build a tube buggy. So doing these links are going to be a challenge, but that is why I am here getting info.

I am really leaning doing the stock TJ coil and building it like some of the Toyota that I have seen. I want to do these on a low budget and coil over shocks for two of them are around 500 to 600. And that is what I want to spend on my 4 link now I no that is going to be hard to do but taking out the coil over shock this should help. I am not going hard core just like the thought of a 3 / 4 link. I am leaning toward a 3 link so I can keep the stock fuel tank where it is at. But then again a buddy of mine has a race car and extra fuel cell that he said that I could have cheap. So I am kicking that around as well I just need to decide on what I am going to do and do it.

See I am thinking about leaving the frame and linking it and bobbed the bed because I really like that look. Plus I don’t have the tools or now who to build a tube buggy. So doing these links are going to be a challenge, but that is why I am here getting info.

I am really leaning doing the stock TJ coil and building it like some of the Toyota that I have seen. I want to do these on a low budget and coil over shocks for two of them are around 500 to 600. And that is what I want to spend on my 4 link now I no that is going to be hard to do but taking out the coil over shock this should help. I am not going hard core just like the thought of a 3 / 4 link. I am leaning toward a 3 link so I can keep the stock fuel tank where it is at. But then again a buddy of mine has a race car and extra fuel cell that he said that I could have cheap. So I am kicking that around as well I just need to decide on what I am going to do and do it.

If you do a 3 link with a full body and the stock fuel tank you'll have a hard time getting good placement on the track bar. You know what to do.............spend HOURS laying under the rig with a tape measure visualizing. :D

if you're keeping the rear of the frame then it's likely going to have to be some sort of 3-link, unless you relocate the gas tank that's on the drivers side rail.

My future plans for the rear are a 3 link with a trackbar, it will fit nicely in the extra room there is on the passenger side of the rear frame.

I had looked at a four link, but the gas tank is just in the way, at least to do a triangulated job.

If you do a 3 link with a full body and the stock fuel tank you'll have a hard time getting good placement on the track bar. You know what to do.............spend HOURS laying under the rig with a tape measure visualizing. :D

I'm not sure it would be so difficult.
There's space behind the tank, right above the axle on the frame. Of course, this is with my longbed, and I'm not sure of the space under a shortbed. I know that my shocks are forward of the axle, and the shortbeds are behind, so it's obviously different under there.

also, I had planned on air bags, because I wheel with a ton of crap.

Ok so I went out and looked at the truck and the fuel tanks and stuff. This is just my gathering ideal stage. So please bare with me on throwing out ideals and don’t flame me to hard for being new and wanting to try this. So with that said I went out and looked at my truck and took some measurements and my wheel base at stock is 112” and the back of the fuel tanks is 11” forward from the center of the axle. And going back and looking at the Yota guys 3 link it would be tight on my up travel but it could be done. I feel that I have more than enough room for the track bar it is going to be the fuel tank that is going to kick my ass. So if I don’t think I can make this work with my fuel tank and have to delete the stock fuel tank then I am going to go to a 4 link and call it good.

I also was doing some more reading and gathering ideals and stuff. One guy built a scaled downed frame of his truck I think it was 1/3 or some thing like that. Since I am new at this do you guys think that would be a wise thing to do or is it a waste of time?

and thanks C R for posting up some of those pics of your rig. That is one sweet MJ or what is left of it.

I dont know why everyone is afraid of moving their tank or doing a fuel cell. Yeah it is kinda pricey to buy a cell and set it up, but it is better then compromising your suspension design.

i have a few buddy that run race cars and might be able to get my hand on a good used one if that is the case then i will run a 4 link it just i have not seen a 4 link with coil. Is there some one out there running this set up.

the ONLY difference between a triangulated upper wishbone vs triangulated independent arms is the imaginary pivot point that the axel rotates around.

bump to clean up

what is the best joint to run and size. And the best place to get these from.
:confused:

what is the best joint to run and size. And the best place to get these from.
:confused:

my thinking was RE joints, becuse they're rebuildable for cheap.

what is the best joint to run and size. And the best place to get these from.
:confused:


Most use either johnny joints or large rod ends. JJ's are a little cheaper, large rod ends will last virtually forever. Check Poly Performance for a good selection.

Tech to the top BS to the bottom...

any one have any thing to add:flipoff2:

clean up

search for pics of bigwoody's mj on here. 1/4 elip rear 4 linked, it worked awesome. I'll see what I can dig up.