http://www.rockstomper.com/images/carnage/mainshaft01.jpg

Check out the spline twist at the end...

http://www.rockstomper.com/images/carnage/mainshaft02.jpg

Just three days after I find out that All Pro has a fix for it... and here I was thinking that a carb'd four-cylinder, 2.28 into 4.7, I shouldn't need that... maybe 4.7 into 4.7, but I'm not pumping that much power... but I broke it anyway.

Scott, your links aren't working.

Originally posted by HighHooder
Scott, your links aren't working.

??? Works for me... the pics are on Rockstomper, not Pirate, maybe that's the problem?

Originally posted by HighHooder
Scott, your links aren't working.

yes they are;) congrats, your weak link is the t-case shaft now!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: good thing u got that 60, no more changin axles just tranny shafts:rolleyes: , lol BaHaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.......fluke??????j/k it's all good!

Originally posted by SeaBass44
yes they are;) congrats, your weak link is the t-case shaft now!
good thing u got that 60, no more changin axles just tranny shafts

Yeah, and now instead of being a 20 minute job, it's an all-day one that requires a press! :(

On the plus side, we did develop a wicked redneck-press involving a couple wrenches, a hammer, a chunk of steel, some more wrenches, and whatnot, to get that bearing pressed off-n-back-on trailside. Just requires two people, one of whom has to be heavier than I am.

So I think the better bet would be to just get the shaft from All Pro, and hope-n-pray that I can start just breaking driveshaft U-joints. What do I have to do, to make those stupid little 1310 joints actually break first?

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper

Just three days after I find out that All Pro has a fix for it... and here I was thinking that a carb'd four-cylinder, 2.28 into 4.7, I shouldn't need that... maybe 4.7 into 4.7, but I'm not pumping that much power... but I broke it anyway. [/B]

i think geiger crawled under your rig and hacksawed your shaft to help sell their product :flipoff2: LOL too funny

Originally posted by camo
i think geiger crawled under your rig and hacksawed your shaft to help sell their product :flipoff2: LOL too funny

Well, whatever it was that broke it (Chris said he was busy sleeping, but woudn't tell me anything about anyone else... :) ) it worked... called 'em, and got a new one on the way. In stock and ready to ship. :cool:

:eek:
So uhh what were you doing?? :beer:

BigMike

Originally posted by BigMike
:eek:So uhh what were you doing?? :beer:

Laps. :jester:

Specifically, laps on Independence, at 2AM, on a Saturday morning. Ran Patriot in about 20 minutes, then was partway through another loop, and bound the front end pretty hard into a ledge, and it popped.

From the same trail, later that same Saturday:
http://www.rockstomper.com/images/trails/indy/052502/MVC-002S.JPG

And another spot on the same trail:
http://www.rockstomper.com/images/trails/indy/052502/MVC-017S.JPG

Yes, those are 44's.

Fawking GET IT!!!!

just move your 4.7's to the front case, and carry a spare case. You could swap the whole thing in not much longer than a ujoint.

Dang man, that is kick ass. I have seen your rig pictures on All Pro's webpage- Pretty Sweet!

Originally posted by 82FB
just move your 4.7's to the front case, and carry a spare case. You could swap the whole thing in not much longer than a ujoint.

I know you are not refering to this, but BTW, Moving your gears around will still result in the same amount of torque through the rear output shaft.
It would actually be best to keep the torque generating pieces at the very end of the line.

Regards,
BigMike

Originally posted by 82FB
just move your 4.7's to the front case, and carry a spare case. You could swap the whole thing in not much longer than a ujoint.

No can do. :(

My 4.7 case is a 23 spline Turbo, my tranny is a carb unit. I was worried about breaking inputs on the rear case (which, from chatting with Chris, I probably would've broken the input if I had a 21 spline rear case) plus the 4.7 case is stolen from my '86 V8 truck, where I was similarly worried about breaking transfer inputs.

Marlin told me the same thing when I was assembling pieces, that BigMike mentioned--the farther back you put the gearing, the better it is on the intermediate pieces.

Still questing for something that'll let me break driveshaft U-joints (stupid 1310's won't break!) instead of anything else, and I'm not even running quality driveshaft U-joints. $8 Checker specials.

BTW, a few minutes after that second pic was taken, I did roll it right there... but it held more angle than that pic shows, the cameraman was just too busy spotting to take more pics. The assorted bystanders picked it up the foot or so that it took to put the tires back on the ground, and I kept 'wheeling. :)

One other thing came to mind when contemplating the whole 23 spline vs 21 spline input shaft thing.

Chris told me that if I was running 21 spline, the input is the weak link. With 23 spline, the mainshaft is the weak link.

If you toast the input, you have to buy a new input (or a new 4/4.7 gearset) at a minimum of $210 (stock input with the gear integral to it), and could be as much as $600+ (if it's a 4 or 4.7 gearset that you toasted). If you toast a mainshaft, it's $240 for an aftermarket one, or probably $20 for a used one from a buddy who's got a leftover from converting to a dual case crawler. Free if you happen to have one leftover yourself.

Seems to me that the better bet, cost-wise, is to avoid making the rear case input, the weak link... so I may be foolish for jumping on the All Pro HD mainshaft, seeing that it *may* move my weak link back to the rear case input. We'll see. I'm not sure what spare parts to carry any more.

after i gernaded a 4.7 gear at the hammers i decided to just carry a spare dual case setup on my trailer. :D