Insulation thickness

[DOUG38S]

What size is everyone using for their insulation with good results? We usually see about 20-30degree weather in the winter. Just finished up the 30x50 project.

[Proeliator]

We see the same type of winters here. I don't know what type your construction is, but I stick built mine using 2x6s, so I went with the 6" thick R19. With the sheetrock over it, its stupid easy to keep warm. Although I did spring for the thicker, insulated bay door so that helps.

[DOUG38S]

I'm looking at the foam stuff from lowes that has a r5 value. 1"x4x8 sheet is around 12bucks. Am I wasting my money here or what? I do have the insulated doors as well.

[YotaRunner]

I'm looking at the foam stuff from lowes that has a r5 value. 1"x4x8 sheet is around 12bucks. Am I wasting my money here or what? I do have the insulated doors as well.

Foam's good, but only backed by something else. R5 is good if you double it, or triple it up.... 3" nets you a R15, That's great, 4" would be better at that! But figure the price, and reg old bat insulation is the winner.....pending on the finish material, drywall???, plastic???, Lam-board????... For the solids I'd consider 1"=1R value. 3/4"drywall=about(less) 1R value.
What I'd consider factoring in, is from siding to finish. And figure what you'd like to be at. With your temps where they're at.... I'd say a 18-23R would be Sweet! 30+R would be BITCHIN!!!! Even in summer!!! Stays cool with little to no effort!!!
•Siding/vapor shield... 1R
•3-6" in the stud framing 15-20R (Foam/Bat)
•1" in the finish material 1R

17-22R is good, within budget too...

They also have a ceramic spray that can pull a R15 applied like paint 2mm thick!!! (Not in the budget, but coolness!)
Look into spray in foam may cost a little more but it nets a GREAT Rvalue!!! and can be done in ALOT LESS TIME then Bat or Foam.... (call around) I've seen some that have a 30R in a 3" application...

I've seen some weird stuff here, we're named the coldest spot in the nation...

[DOUG38S]

goog info...thanks alot. That is what I was looking for.

[YotaRunner]

Also like said above... None of works as well without good windows and doors! You know that tho...

[D60]

I'm looking at the foam stuff from lowes that has a r5 value. 1"x4x8 sheet is around 12bucks. Am I wasting my money here or what? I do have the insulated doors as well.

I think it really depends upon what you're expecting. What sort of construction is this building? And what will you be using for heat? Do you want to keep it warm 24/7, or just when you're out there? etc etc

My steel building uses the standard white vinyl backed stuff, it's supposedly R10 but some say as low as R6. I really dunno. I've been pretty happy with it, esp considering the volume of space I have to heat (40x50x14). But I'm also using a double barrel wood stove which will crank out some serious BTU's. Our winters sound similar to yours, but I'd guess you have a lot more humidity on the E coast

Sometimes there are alternatives, too......like for spot heating. The mill is furthest from the stove and I put an electric 220V infrared heater there - keeps me warm while the stove is getting up to temp or for nights when I just have a little work to do and don't want to bother w a fire. Machining sucks in the cold 'cause you're just standing there, at least w general wrenching you can usually keep moving.

[DOUG38S]

I'm only planning on keeping it warm when I'm out there but dont want the building to drop below freezing in the winter. I havent decided on how to heat it yet. Suggestions. I have tons of wood to burn but would rather work on my stuff than cut wood and the smoke laying around the building would suck.

[YotaRunner]

Wood is great, if it's installed correctly. I put them in for a living. I'd also suggest a Pellet stove with a T-stat. It will run when it needs to as long as you have the hopper full. They burn really clean for the most part. and the Venting is MUCH cheaper then Solid fuel vent, however the appliance cost is a little more. And you can do an up&out application and not have to run through the roof....

Cost per BTU figures in at....
•Wood-cheapest
•pellet
•Gas
•Propane
•Electric-Expensive

[Jeepnford]

If insurance coverage concerns you make sure you talk to your agent about wood heat first. The one I have now won't cover fire loss if I use a wood stove in my garage if gasoline is stored there,including in cars. I asked them about a propane furnace and they said that would be O.K.,so I asked them what's the difference,flame is flame. They didn't have an answer.

[YotaRunner]

That's true, check with local codes and Like said with the insurance Co. As far as flame/flame is concerned... Gas should be installed in a Direct Vent Application (normal)...Meaning it uses Double wall vent drawing in combustible air and exhaust out both through the cap.... So combustible fumes would not be a factor as long as it's not at cap height at the outside wall....

Wood will need an air source, typical from the room... So Yes, that can be a concern... more so when feeding... (Opening the doors)
Pellet works in a close fashion. But there is a choice available.... what, they/we call "outside air Kits", these draw fresh air from the outside of the building to the appliance.....

So there are still options...
If you have Q's??? shoot me a PM I could talk you through some choices.

-Jerry

[u2slow]

I'm using Roxul bats for everything I build and renovate now. I like that its nicer to work with, and can't burn or grow mold.

[ScottFJ40 V2.0]

I'm using foil/foam/foil, this stuff is rated for r14 and is cake to install

Like this, but I have a catalog with some great prices in it.

http://www.insulation4less.com/prodex_Ffmf.asp

[ScottFJ40 V2.0]

I'm really ready to pull the trigger, this is the stuff I want, foil, bubble bubble, foil, the link in my last post doesn't offer that it appears.

Can anyone find this product for any cheaper than farmtek?
http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;;956af1a4_100761.html

Dug, you ready to buy yet? Knowing you you have the whole place insulated by now :D

[Ben W]

What made you decide to go with the Foil/bubble bubble/foil instead of the foil/foam/foil?

[ScottFJ40 V2.0]

What made you decide to go with the Foil/bubble bubble/foil instead of the foil/foam/foil?Talked to a few people who've used it and they seem to think they are better with heat transfer. The reflectivity is the same on both according to the specs.

[jtaco1]

I used the the stuf that is foil/fiberglass/vinyl and it has an r-value around 12 and has been great for my shop. White vinyl side on the visible surface so I don't have to paint or do drywall.

[PTSchram]

If insurance coverage concerns you make sure you talk to your agent about wood heat first. The one I have now won't cover fire loss if I use a wood stove in my garage if gasoline is stored there,including in cars. I asked them about a propane furnace and they said that would be O.K.,so I asked them what's the difference,flame is flame. They didn't have an answer.

Went through the same thing with my insurance company. I can use just about anything but wood. Their argument is that it can't be extinguished (?).

I can use fuel oil, propane, used oil, but not corn, no pellets, no wood due to the insurance company's insistence it can't be extinguished.

[Bad Coco]

Back to insulation....
If you are putting up sheetrock or someother type of wall on the inside. Look into the blown in cellulose. It's fairly inexpensive, and its worth it to not mess with batt insulation. The only thing, it makes it a super PIA to run wires or the like afterwards. That's what I'll be using in my shop. Good luck, Eric

[MT4Runner]

I have 2x4 walls (R-13) in my 24x42x9 shop, and it heats pretty well with a small wood stove. An insulated garage door and good sealing windows are a must. We see a lot of 10-30ºF temps in the winter here.

[ScottFJ40 V2.0]

Back to insulation....
If you are putting up sheetrock or someother type of wall on the inside. Look into the blown in cellulose. It's fairly inexpensive, and its worth it to not mess with batt insulation. The only thing, it makes it a super PIA to run wires or the like afterwards. That's what I'll be using in my shop. Good luck, EricI thought about it, but wanted to mostly rodent proof my bbuilding, that's why I went with armored cable for my electric.
This foil bubble foil isn't too expensive.
I also hear the blown in stuff settles over time, guess you could top it off?

I am not sure how I am finishing the interior, I'd like to use steel panels but I know I'd beat them up pretty good. Probably find whatevers on sale, plywood, osb, whatever and paint it white.

I have 2x4 walls (R-13) in my 24x42x9 shop, and it heats pretty well with a small wood stove. An insulated garage door and good sealing windows are a must. We see a lot of 10-30ºF temps in the winter here.I have a 250K BTU Modine, should do the trick :laughing:

[Jrod-13]

our garage is a 24x40, two story. the lower story is 1/2 built into hillside(to enable driving into the top). the ceiling and walls are both R-38. Stays 65 inside year around, with only a small fuel oil furnace( -30 winter, 80-90 outside in the summer)

Dont skimp on insulation!